pH is kept at 5.8 and let it drift to 6 at max then drop it back to 5.8
Under feeding
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OK, but that's 2 weeks away,.... meantime, again, what (brand) nutes are you using, not what form they are in.... she's growing OK, but the paleness persists, so something is consistently defc. in supply; I'm thinking S, possibly Fe....
It's called Hortimix bought it from the hydro store hope the pics help
I agree that's why I would like to change it up hope I'll get some better results with General Hydroponics I could be missing something or doing something wrong but yet to figure it out
Hi I am aware of this @Autobot-J didn't want to follow it as I was sacred of burning my plants so lowered the does but kept it even still figuring things out as it's my first grow
Ppms are at 1000 at the moment and I belivev that' high for an auto so not sure where I'm going wrong .waiting for the vertical hight to stop then I'll be adding more bloom nutes witch I think it should be some time this coming week some update pics
Ppms are at 1000 at the moment and I belivev that' high for an auto so not sure where I'm going wrong .waiting for the vertical hight to stop then I'll be adding more bloom nutes witch I think it should be some time this coming week some update pics
Autobot-J
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That's all I could do really lol. I'm not at all sure on anything involving chem nutes. I have only done organic stuff...I dont check any of that. No EC, PPMs or even PH most times.
They're looking ok though...still looks like the new growth is too pale...hopefully someone can give you some good info!
They're looking ok though...still looks like the new growth is too pale...hopefully someone can give you some good info!
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thanks Grow, that helps,.. some? 
it looks complete, but hey didn't bother 'translating" the damn weight ratios into more user friendly %'s and standard NPK values,....
With stuff like this, it's wise to use a TDS or EC meter to measure the strength of a given solution is at,.... I can only assume some of the vital elements are chelated, micro's especially,... if they cross react, they become unavailable,...
1000ppm is too high, though I don't see signs of burning,... Symptoms still look like Fe or S to me, making wonder about the chelation thing,... even at 100ppm, it shouldn't cause competitive uptake issues either, so I don't know why she's not correcting very well,... consider doing a foliar with the micro part, maybe 400ppm not including your water base ppm (use RO or Di is you can actually, for foliar)... You'll need a wetting agent to do this properly as well; this will help it coat and stick more evenly, not just bead up and roll off... Coco-Wet is a good brand,... Spray tops and bottoms of leaves, underside has more stomata there.. more surface area covered = more absorbed! Do this out of direct light, to slow drying (only in solution does stuff get in).....
If you want the maximum butt-kick for foliar, look into Optic Foliar products, in this case Transport is the key; this stuff allows temporary penetration through the cuticle layer, so nutes get taken directly into the leave much faster and more efficiently! No need for wetting agent with this BTW,...
How far away are the lights?
it looks complete, but hey didn't bother 'translating" the damn weight ratios into more user friendly %'s and standard NPK values,.... With stuff like this, it's wise to use a TDS or EC meter to measure the strength of a given solution is at,.... I can only assume some of the vital elements are chelated, micro's especially,... if they cross react, they become unavailable,...1000ppm is too high, though I don't see signs of burning,... Symptoms still look like Fe or S to me, making wonder about the chelation thing,... even at 100ppm, it shouldn't cause competitive uptake issues either, so I don't know why she's not correcting very well,... consider doing a foliar with the micro part, maybe 400ppm not including your water base ppm (use RO or Di is you can actually, for foliar)... You'll need a wetting agent to do this properly as well; this will help it coat and stick more evenly, not just bead up and roll off... Coco-Wet is a good brand,... Spray tops and bottoms of leaves, underside has more stomata there.. more surface area covered = more absorbed! Do this out of direct light, to slow drying (only in solution does stuff get in).....
If you want the maximum butt-kick for foliar, look into Optic Foliar products, in this case Transport is the key; this stuff allows temporary penetration through the cuticle layer, so nutes get taken directly into the leave much faster and more efficiently! No need for wetting agent with this BTW,...
How far away are the lights?
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