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Wow, I've been on the Bridgelux page all morning. They look awesome. When I get closer to the right time to make a light decision, they will certainly be on the list.
Lights cost what they cost. It isn't a place where I've ever been able to stick to a budget. only a timeline. For planning, a moderate price range and easy DIY but electrical I would rather pay other's to do for me or otherwise I worry. I think the marketer's have us figured out. It seems to light up a 4x4 flower area, somehow, magically, you are always going to end up spending $1000 plus or minus $300. That's an OK price range.
At this point, I'm more than happy vegging under T5's with assist from old burple (or whatever mostly worn out) lights. And I'm a big fan of my 4 tube mix of reptile UVB and 6500+ for side lighting in all my tents. Cool, cheap and easy. When I used to put my old tent in flower, I always used a flower initiator far red bulb along with UVB for 30 min after lights out. It seemed to help, but I'm not sure if it would be worth it in a more complex set up.
Right now, I'm setting up in my garage but I have an old pony barn that I want to trip out into 3 grow rooms, two 9x9 and one 12x12. However, this will be way over the top, especially for my needs. I quit growing because I live in a legal state, great cheap pot is one mile away. Unfortunately, my tastes in flower run towards the old long 200 day huge sativas. They don't show up in the stores very often and sell out fast. And I figured out that I really miss growing. There is a huge difference between great store bought pot and my pot. Even if my pot isn't as pretty nor lab test as well, it is far superior to me, especially given a longer cure. So, I know myself and I know that someday that barn will be filled, but maybe just with 3 plants.
Want another wrinkle? The barn needs a new roof. I think I'm going to put in a clear one so that I can use what sunlight I can. However, I live near Seattle, so in the winter when the weak sun rises a 10 am and sets at 4 pm, I think I will just need full lights anyway, but that's a problem for next winter. This winter I'm just starting up the process again and trying to learn the huge amounts of new science.
Any thoughts on how a clear roof would change things for year round growing? The internet seems to say that most greenhouses go crazy bright or nothing and just grow with the seasons. Greenhouses where they grow out mother's for clones seem to stick to florescent and just nudge the length of day longer, they say it doesn't take much, but that's veg, not flower. My walls will be solid, with only the roof translucent plastic. I know the angle of the sun in each season will make a big difference. I have no idea how to calculate that out, so I think it's going to be a trial and error.
Thanks so much for you input. It means a lot to me.
I'm planning a vertical 3x3 for mothers and two 3x3 flower cabinets. My initial choice was https://growlightsaustralia.com/product/double-high-light-heat-sink-driver/
They are pricey but 400-800nm spectrum, 94cri, UV, and 2.4umols/j. It isn't the most efficient but rare to see boards with every color on one driver. Being able to run UV the entire grow was a benefit to me as I acknowledge the myriad of benefits. These are high bay whereas I prefer something that can run a close to medium distance to save head room.
The cheaper choice for me situation was Bridgelux EB gen3 in 92cri with 4000k in veg and 2700k in flower. Only issue was a lack of UV. I know where to get UV led strips but the manufacturer of the Buddies on GLA will be releasing side/intra lighting with UV. Planning to also add side/intra lighting in 4000k 94cri with 730nm initiator to run 5 mins before and after lights out.
The bridgelux are dead simple to wire in parallel whereas you want some projections if wired in series. The 90cri gen3s work best at 16-20w so parallel is going to be better for the amount of strips needed.
The only other manufacturer worth my consideration was HLG for their Diablo boards but they cost more than the EBG 3 but less than GLA. At this point I'm looking for a final light setup with moderate to high efficiency, theoretical limit is 4-4.5umols/j but the most I've seen was around 3.0 at 80cri which will be inferior to the 90cri but better efficiency.
For that barn roof I'm not sure but to supplement light I'd run something in 4000k connected to Trolmaster DLI controller. It would measure lighting and turn on more light if the sun isn't producing enough.
It becomes an expensive method because a PAR meter becomes absolutely necessary. LUX meters are trash for measuring lights in relation to horticulture regardless of what anyone says. It's a professionals tool but a serious hobbyist with 2-500 and an interest in accuracy/consistency will appreciate it.
Appreciate you reading my rambling lol
@derek420colorado has greenhouses and @Son of Hobbes works in one I believe. They'll know more than me on what is best to use for the roof.