Spectrum question

Efficiency matters more than spectrum. I would look into DIY Bridgelux Vesta fixture as they have an adjustable range of spectrum between 2700-5000k and enough far red that you would only need 720nm for end of day treatments. Add in AgroMax UVA and UVB.

HLG makes far red and deep red strips that are inexpensive to supplement the Vesta build. CutterAU sells the most efficient blue chips by NichiaOptisolis but they are quite expensive. The Vestas are reasonable and produce around 2.5 -2.8umols

The different spectrums affect plant morphology as far as root growth, stem elongation, etc. There's a lot of other factors that affect plant morphology beyond lighting like nutrition, irrigation practices, etc. What you are essentially trying to do is crop steering by manipulating the light spectrum.

Basically I would focus on efficiency over spectrum and the Autocobs are very efficient, UV supplementation would be beneficial but a DIY build with full spectrum strips from Bridgelux/Samsung/Cutter AU will outdo the majority of what manufacturers sell pre built.

I second watching Bruce Bugbee's videos but most of this goes beyond the budget or perceived need of most home growers and a fixture from Fluence/Chilled would be more than adequate.


The other thing, I saw c02 mentioned, is that depending on your grow style larger plants need higher PPFD to achieve adequate DLI. The link talks about Sea of Green specifically but you need a range of 48-64 in DLI. Most growers will never need c02 and it doesn't improve quality but merely improves growth rates.

You'll need a sealed room that is practically entirely automated with a burner or tank and a controller - over $500 altogether so far not including the sealed room. Nutrition and environment have to be in point from the start with complete control over temps and humidity. Plants will transpire 99% of all the water they drink so dehumidifier is essential plus maintaining everything within VPD while venting at lights off. Imo I think it's a massive expenditure for no improvement in quality but larger yield that could be spent on other aspects of a grow especially if you aren't selling to clients.
 
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Efficiency matters more than spectrum. I would look into DIY Bridgelux Vesta fixture as they have an adjustable range of spectrum between 2700-5000k and enough far red that you would only need 720nm for end of day treatments. Add in AgroMax UVA and UVB.

HLG makes far red and deep red strips that are inexpensive to supplement the Vesta build. CutterAU sells the most efficient blue chips by NichiaOptisolis but they are quite expensive. The Vestas are reasonable and produce around 2.5 -2.8umols

The different spectrums affect plant morphology as far as root growth, stem elongation, etc. There's a lot of other factors that affect plant morphology beyond lighting like nutrition, irrigation practices, etc. What you are essentially trying to do is crop steering by manipulating the light spectrum.

Basically I would focus on efficiency over spectrum and the Autocobs are very efficient, UV supplementation would be beneficial but a DIY build with full spectrum strips from Bridgelux/Samsung/Cutter AU will outdo the majority of what manufacturers sell pre built.

I second watching Bruce Bugbee's videos but most of this goes beyond the budget or perceived need of most home growers and a fixture from Fluence/Chilled would be more than adequate.


The other thing, I saw c02 mentioned, is that depending on your grow style larger plants need higher PPFD to achieve adequate DLI. The link talks about Sea of Green specifically but you need a range of 48-64 in DLI. Most growers will never need c02 and it doesn't improve quality but merely improves growth rates.

You'll need a sealed room that is practically entirely automated with a burner or tank and a controller - over $500 altogether so far not including the sealed room. Nutrition and environment have to be in point from the start with complete control over temps and humidity. Plants will transpire 99% of all the water they drink so dehumidifier is essential plus maintaining everything within VPD while venting at lights off. Imo I think it's a massive expenditure for no improvement in quality but larger yield that could be spent on other aspects of a grow especially if you aren't selling to clients.
Thanks for chiming in !
A lot of what's being said is a little over my head right now but I'm working on it, basically starting from scratch as far as light goes, and not much better with electric but I can solder and follow instructions so maybe diy could be in my
future.
As for CO2, did some more research, and came to the conclusion that it certainly wasn't worth it for my set up for a real system, and a $40 bag increase yield 20-30 %? I thought two things, first was that's too good to be true, the second was couldn't hurt to try, (haven't bought any yet)
 
Thanks for chiming in !
A lot of what's being said is a little over my head right now but I'm working on it, basically starting from scratch as far as light goes, and not much better with electric but I can solder and follow instructions so maybe diy could be in my
future.
As for CO2, did some more research, and came to the conclusion that it certainly wasn't worth it for my set up for a real system, and a $40 bag increase yield 20-30 %? I thought two things, first was that's too good to be true, the second was couldn't hurt to try, (haven't bought any yet)

https://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/ or you can do a custom build with HLG quantum boards that come in a 4 pack. They won't need heatsink but they cost a bit more compared to bridgelux strips. You don't even need to solder anything by the way.

Exhale bags are a waste of money and any grower not controlling c02 output and or running those in a grow tent are wasting their money. C02 has to be sealed and controlled as too much c02 is harmful/non beneficial.

It's a lot to learn and understand but there's plenty of good information out there. At this point CMH/HPS are cheap but outdated. Great lights can be built for around $1 a watt with UV/red and see not complicated to build. Prioritize efficiency and look for 90 cri diodes, although a bit less efficient are superior to 80 cri. Higher efficiency will allow your lights and drivers to perform better and operate more closely to manufacturer tested specs.

You'll want to familiarize yourself with some electrical calculations and how to use a PAR meter. When I built my fixtures I rented a PAR meter from an online aquarium for a week and sent it back. $60 compared to $600 for a tool I don't use that often was worth it.

It's a lot to learn and we are all here to help and share information. @Fitzy builds his own lights and recently @Master_gRoshi built a beautiful Samsung Photoboost array for his grow area. Check out CutterAU, Horticulture Lighting Group, and Digikey as they have a vast amount of DIY products. AgroMax makes UV bulbs and @Mañ'O'Green can attest to their benefit - he also runs a Chilled fixture

Deep rabbit hole for sure and you'll find that there are many options for how can control your light as well like Ilumi MeshTek wireless dimming, Inventronics drivers can be programmed with a computer, or even DMX controllers are viable options at different price points. Inventronics makes solid drivers at better-than-meanwell prices. Horticulture Lighting Group runs their 600w drivers in their commercial fixtures. LEDGardener is a great resource and his mid power LED forum is full of professionals and enthusiast with high end equipment like spectrometers that will get you on the right path and don't mind educating you through the whole process.
 
https://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/ or you can do a custom build with HLG quantum boards that come in a 4 pack. They won't need heatsink but they cost a bit more compared to bridgelux strips. You don't even need to solder anything by the way.

Exhale bags are a waste of money and any grower not controlling c02 output and or running those in a grow tent are wasting their money. C02 has to be sealed and controlled as too much c02 is harmful/non beneficial.

It's a lot to learn and understand but there's plenty of good information out there. At this point CMH/HPS are cheap but outdated. Great lights can be built for around $1 a watt with UV/red and see not complicated to build. Prioritize efficiency and look for 90 cri diodes, although a bit less efficient are superior to 80 cri. Higher efficiency will allow your lights and drivers to perform better and operate more closely to manufacturer tested specs.

You'll want to familiarize yourself with some electrical calculations and how to use a PAR meter. When I built my fixtures I rented a PAR meter from an online aquarium for a week and sent it back. $60 compared to $600 for a tool I don't use that often was worth it.

It's a lot to learn and we are all here to help and share information. @Fitzy builds his own lights and recently @Master_gRoshi built a beautiful Samsung Photoboost array for his grow area. Check out CutterAU, Horticulture Lighting Group, and Digikey as they have a vast amount of DIY products. AgroMax makes UV bulbs and @Mañ'O'Green can attest to their benefit - he also runs a Chilled fixture

Deep rabbit hole for sure and you'll find that there are many options for how can control your light as well like Ilumi MeshTek wireless dimming, Inventronics drivers can be programmed with a computer, or even DMX controllers are viable options at different price points. Inventronics makes solid drivers at better-than-meanwell prices. Horticulture Lighting Group runs their 600w drivers in their commercial fixtures. LEDGardener is a great resource and his mid power LED forum is full of professionals and enthusiast with high end equipment like spectrometers that will get you on the right path and don't mind educating you through the whole process.
I almost got those photo boost strips lol they look great strips are one of the absolute easiest DIY setups and can be setup with 280mm length can be made in small bunches of 3 to 5 and used similar to a cob on a 140 pin heat sink so I think they are great and prices are stupid cheap. I've built 4 cob fixtures and 2 strips plus single strip and double strip to be able to adjust the height to smaller plants. I can put up some pics if anyone is interested.
 
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