New Grower Some simple answers to life's nagging questions...

Puddentane said:
Water from the top. Take a look above. You dont want to water from thae bottom or allow them to sit in the run off because the containers will suck the fertilizer back into the can making the bottom 2-3 inches of the pot uninhabitable very soon. Flow through and out brings fresh nutrients, oxygen, and caries the spent salts and any toxic excretions from microbes down and eventually out of the container. Water softly and in multiple applications when you water so it all goes in and does not run off. Run out is good, run off is bad. Make it go in and through.

If you have a hot part of the day you might sync your lights out time to coincide with the heat of the day. Less cooling and stress on the plants.
Click to expand...
Again thanks...got up early to go check this morning lol ...6 am ....did just as u have suggested but going straight back in to get rid of runoff from catch trays....just received an email to say nutes will be delivered today (ionic growth booster )....spent a while last night reading through the life cycle of an auto flower,intersting read .....so from my understanding (im on day 23 from popping )i can expect a growth spurt for the next 3-4weeks so just feed them growth promoter until they noticeably slow down before using bloom promotor (also ionic) and expect them to show sex (not flowering)...is that about right... then flip the light cycle.i have other seeds just popped so am going to have to find another way of getting light for them when i eventually flip the lights,mine are on from 3pm till 11am ,would there be enough natural daylight to grow them in natural light for the eight hrs that my lights will be off or do i need another veg room ?

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guerillagrower#65 said:
Again thanks...got up early to go check this morning lol ...6 am ....did just as u have suggested but going straight back in to get rid of runoff from catch trays....just received an email to say nutes will be delivered today (ionic growth booster )....spent a while last night reading through the life cycle of an auto flower,intersting read .....so from my understanding (im on day 23 from popping )i can expect a growth spurt for the next 3-4weeks so just feed them growth promoter until they noticeably slow down before using bloom promotor (also ionic) and expect them to show sex (not flowering)...is that about right... then flip the light cycle.i have other seeds just popped so am going to have to find another way of getting light for them when i eventually flip the lights,mine are on from 3pm till 11am ,would there be enough natural daylight to grow them in natural light for the eight hrs that my lights will be off or do i need another veg room ?

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Click to expand...
The beauty of Autos is that you do not need to change your light cycle. The Ruderalis gene is programed to flower and procreate no matter the light schedule. More light means more energy available to the plant per day. So growing together with your seedlings is no problem provided your light system has the spectrum of light required by plants for growth. Many growers here have started to opt for specialized lighting that covers all spectrums of growth with one source. I am going the opposite direction and trying to develop a system of spawning out containers under one light system and then move them on to finishing lights later.

One thing I might mention on that topic is that Metal Halides are often used in the Veg cycle and many opt to change to either High Pressure Sodium bulbs for flowering, or supplementing with Cob lights for that extra coverage in the light spectrum. You might ask @BigSm0 or @pop22 on this topic as they are very strong with light (among other things) and can help you get the most from that.

A few things I have learned is to throw out the calendar and look at your plants. Just like people, each seed is different. The breeding gets them in the vicinity of the same profile but they each have subtle differences in the way they will grow and mature. Watching them will ensure you don't get too hung up on changing your regimen just because the calendar on the wall says to. The plant will tell you.

So if it were me I would probably opt for 18 on 6 off and sync the off time to the hottest part of the day. Leave that schedule throughout the grow. You got this.
 
Puddentane said:
The beauty of Autos is that you do not need to change your light cycle. The Ruderalis gene is programed to flower and procreate no matter the light schedule. More light means more energy available to the plant per day. So growing together with your seedlings is no problem provided your light system has the spectrum of light required by plants for growth. Many growers here have started to opt for specialized lighting that covers all spectrums of growth with one source. I am going the opposite direction and trying to develop a system of spawning out containers under one light system and then move them on to finishing lights later.

One thing I might mention on that topic is that Metal Halides are often used in the Veg cycle and many opt to change to either High Pressure Sodium bulbs for flowering, or supplementing with Cob lights for that extra coverage in the light spectrum. You might ask @BigSm0 or @pop22 on this topic as they are very strong with light (among other things) and can help you get the most from that.

A few things I have learned is to throw out the calendar and look at your plants. Just like people, each seed is different. The breeding gets them in the vicinity of the same profile but they each have subtle differences in the way they will grow and mature. Watching them will ensure you don't get too hung up on changing your regimen just because the calendar on the wall says to. The plant will tell you.

So if it were me I would probably opt for 18 on 6 off and sync the off time to the hottest part of the day. Leave that schedule throughout the grow. You got this.
Click to expand...
Thanks very much .....i read a bit last night about the life cycle of autos and it was really informative but you have just confirmed what i originally thought...kudos....i also read a link on artificial growing and problems that can arise ,i made me wonder whether the issue with the tops looking dry may be from wind burn so have turned my fan away from them so not to be blowing directly on them as i was quite strong .....can only try and se what happens .....all input gladly taken on board [emoji111]

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guerillagrower#65 said:
Thanks very much .....i read a bit last night about the life cycle of autos and it was really informative but you have just confirmed what i originally thought...kudos....i also read a link on artificial growing and problems that can arise ,i made me wonder whether the issue with the tops looking dry may be from wind burn so have turned my fan away from them so not to be blowing directly on them as i was quite strong .....can only try and se what happens .....all input gladly taken on board [emoji111]

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yuop, the fan should be indirect if it is powerful. I use a box fan that I point towards the opposite wall above the plants. Gives me a nice swirling wind in the room.

I think that the biggest single problem outside of the obvious basic skills is CalMag. I was not ready for this when I first saw it. In the outdoor world CalMag problems are seldom seen outside of construction and reclamation sites. So it was a big surprise. You might want to read up on that one a bit. Also, as I mentioned before, I thoroughly believe in starting out with a simple program and abserve and tune it from there.

You can grow very good plants with most basic fertilizers provided the core needs of the grow are met. I sometimes think people get way too tied up in what shade of purple their bud turned. Meh.
 
Puddentane said:
Yuop, the fan should be indirect if it is powerful. I use a box fan that I point towards the opposite wall above the plants. Gives me a nice swirling wind in the room.

I think that the biggest single problem outside of the obvious basic skills is CalMag. I was not ready for this when I first saw it. In the outdoor world CalMag problems are seldom seen outside of construction and reclamation sites. So it was a big surprise. You might want to read up on that one a bit. Also, as I mentioned before, I thoroughly believe in starting out with a simple program and abserve and tune it from there.

You can grow very good plants with most basic fertilizers provided the core needs of the grow are met. I sometimes think people get way too tied up in what shade of purple their bud turned. Meh.
Click to expand...
Old addage K.I.S.S.....Keep it simple stupid lol....i have read a little about cal/mag but shall look into it further[emoji111]

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