Tired of ringing your friends phones off the hook to have a little fun on a Saturday night? Tired of the Doctor telling you that its normal to hurt all the time as you age? Looking for ways to drive your cats insane with the lack of attention they get when you are in the light closet? Then your ready to start producing your own personal supply of some of the finest genetics available in the world. No more driving to seedy neighborhoods, dealing with nefarious individuals who wish to take advantage of you with pre weighed dirt weed at Chronic prices. No more scraping out your bowl to try to make it through until jimmy wakes up and texts back.
Freedom
So you are gonna do it for your self. Well good for you. That's why we are all here. So lets get started.
IF you are starting out it is best to start with soil. Forgiving and potent when treated right.
If you are growing in soils there are a couple of things that I know. Buffering capacity of soils and choices of additives both in and during the grow will play a crucial role in the final product. You want to sit down one night clear headed and do some reading and math and work through the problem. Why clearheaded? Some if this might feel a bit tricky if you are not familiar with the concepts so put the bong down and get ready for an afternoons work. Your Bong will thank you for it later.
So what is the goal here? FLOWERS!
Well duh, That should be as no surprise to anyone. But to get the strongest, most vibrant, most aromatic, and potent flowers we need to provide them with a bubble of comfort. Plants have no idea of where they are outside of the stimuli that they receive through the roots, shoots, and flowers. the light, rainfall, cold and wind are all part and partial to growth success.
Sounds complicated, screw you, I am going down to the street corner pub for a pint..
Nah, it comes down to following some simple directions first. The understanding of why you will pick up as we go along. For now lets start with a simple recipe for success.
But if you must get a pint wait up and I will get my jacket...
Environment
You need to grow in a space that can maintain the humidity, air exchange, and movement that is needed for great growth. This usually means a tent or enclosed space. If you find that humidity is an issue in your location than you will need to find a way to lower it as the plants grow through to the flowering stage. High humidity can cause multiple issues with the health of your girls in the end of the run. If the humidity is too low, you will need to supliment it to a level of greater than 50% at all times during your veg stage, and preferably no lower than 40% through the flowering cycle.
As plants grow they take in Carbon Dioxide and emit Oxygen as a by product of photosynthesis. That is really great for us but it raises some challenges in the grow space that can be easily defeated with proper ventilation. Without it, the plants feel as if they are suffocating. But with proper venting and air movement in the room we are able to mix the old air with fresh outside air and exhaust a percentage of this mix from the room. An oscillating fan or anything you have that can cause a perceptible movement in the canopy across the room will help to get the air mixture even. A good carbon filter and exhaust fan is a must and this is not where you want to save money If you live in Prohibition than you dont need me to tell you, but even if you live in freedom you will know after the first grow how danged important this is. Turn it off for a couple of hours in week 10 and get back with me.
Soil
It's really easy to spark an instant war on this topic and its best to simply say that you should be working with a soil program that you can easily achieve in any location and understand the reason why. Since the goal of this particular discussion is geared towards growers starting out I think that it is more important for us to focus on building a soil profile that leans towards the mechanical aspects of soil plant growth. We will add in additives prior to planting as specified by whatever nutrient program you decide to run. The goal will be free flowing drainage with sufficient organic matter to support microbial growth. A good start is to use 3 parts of a good potting mix that is locally available, Add in 1 part Earth Worm Castings of Mushroom Compost ( I prefer EWC), 1 part Coco coir (washed well), and 1-2 parts medium perlite. Small is fine if that is all you can source.
The best way to mix these things is to run the EWC and coco together and wet it. mix it into the Perlite with your hands and then spread it evenly over a layer of the potting mix and then stir it in. this can help you get an even distribution of additives throughout your soil profile. When you do the wet mix prior to the final blend you would add any soil bacteria or organic additives and fertilizers in with this wet mix so that it gets spread evenly. Uniformity is the hallmark of strong plants. Before adding any limestone product to the mix ( and it should be incorporated) chose and understand the fertilizer program you will use. Your levels of soil amendments will play a part in this.
Crown your container. It should have a gentle swell to the center almost mound like. If you think you are growing a cultivar that might need support this is a good time to bury dowels or supports in the soil before the root system takes it over. Afterwards you are going to hit some roots.
Guaranteed.
After you build out this basic soil it is best if it can have two weeks to two months to rest and age. Make sure to saturate it at the beginning and let it dry off and water again. The cycles will help to aggregate the materials and allow for the bene's to start getting established. I put mine out in the weather to enjoy the good and bad of the outside world. One word on this. When you build out your containers and let them age you will find that they well shrink up significantly. Splashout and compaction will take some volume and letting a pot sit and weather will ensure it is topped off and ready to fly.
If you have to use it hot without aging try to at least saturate it and let it drain and dry once prior to use.
Light
This is another topic where I think you are best to strike up a conversation in the appropriate forum for what you are trying to do. If you are starting out from scratch or just stepping up from the blurple lights that ALL of us own in various stats of dress or redress you wil want to look to lighting that is cool, simple, powerful. Any quick look through our forums will show many local members that have solutions ready made for success.
If you don't know which sort of schedule you want to run than know that most growers opt for 18/6 or 20/4 with commercial operations always leaning towards those two extra hours of lights out in the electric bill.
Nutrients
The 80%/20% rule is in maximum effect.
Never be afraid to ask for help from a nutrient manufacturer, and never do business with one that will not support its product. There are MANY good fertilizer companies out there.
Pick one. Read everything you can find on it. Follow the directions. Learn how to use a ph meter. If you don't know ask someone here. That's all the fertility you will get from me. Huge topic, not working on my post doctorate thesis so...
Water
This will be the part you screw up most I guarantee. Too much, too little, just right, What the hell is this! Is goldilocks going to pop out somewhere in all of this?
It can be as simple or complex as you want to make it. At the minimum Tap water allowed to come to room temp and rest open for 24 hours is the starting point. If you have worries of other contaminants in the local water using Earth Worm Castings (a small handful per gallon) can help to mitigate the levels available to the plant. Simply add them to your water when you fill and let sit for a minimum of 24 hours and more is better. Shake it whenever you can. Before you water check the PH of the water and adjust it to match the ph of the fertilizer apps you give her. I like to pulse feed, giving a high dose Fertilizer app, low dose Fert (60%), and tea (or water) in a cycle. For the sake of simplicity water every other or third time to ensure that you are moving any salt build up down and out of the soil profile.
Make sure that the edges of the top of your root ball are gently dry but not crisp before watering again. IF the edges are gently dry the center is going to be moist but ready for additional water.
Water over two to three events. Same for fertilizers. Get the top of the root ball lightly damp and a small puddle of liquid soaking in. Leave it for 15 to twenty minutes then add roughly the same amount of water into the pot, making sure that ALL of the top of the root ball is now moist. Let it sit for about 30 minutes. Now return and add the remainder of water into the container slowly, making sure it runs in not off. The goal with fertilizer apps is to add just enough liquid to the container that it becomes soaked to capacity and drains lightly out of the bottoms or edge. Fertilizer is expensive so no need to grow tile. When you water with teas use the same procedure but follow through with a little more volume so that you get a gentle run out from your containers after the final app. If you get it right it will simply weep gently for 5-10 minutes as the excess water and salts break free of their mechanical and chemical bonds and release out the bottom of the container.
In the End...
Growing Cannabis is a Subtractive endeavor. Most every seed that we have access to these days is capable of giving us a very nice plant. Every time we fail to make it's environment optimal is a day that we loose out in the end. Annuals, particularly Automatics, are a drag race. Think fighter pilot and conservation of energy. The more snowball you can build early the larger the avalanche.
If its your first grow, pick a simple fertilizer, don't use too small or too big of a container, pay attention to you water, use the best lighting you can afford, and stick to you program. If you think you need a miracle cure regardless of the program you choose try using fulvic acid in your grow from start to finish. It is never a detriment to ANY grow.
And WHEN things go wrong, and they ALWAYS do, places like this are here to help you puzzle through it. Tracks in the sand my brother. When it gets hardest we are going to pick you up and carry you through to that next success.
Freedom
So you are gonna do it for your self. Well good for you. That's why we are all here. So lets get started.
IF you are starting out it is best to start with soil. Forgiving and potent when treated right.
If you are growing in soils there are a couple of things that I know. Buffering capacity of soils and choices of additives both in and during the grow will play a crucial role in the final product. You want to sit down one night clear headed and do some reading and math and work through the problem. Why clearheaded? Some if this might feel a bit tricky if you are not familiar with the concepts so put the bong down and get ready for an afternoons work. Your Bong will thank you for it later.
So what is the goal here? FLOWERS!
Well duh, That should be as no surprise to anyone. But to get the strongest, most vibrant, most aromatic, and potent flowers we need to provide them with a bubble of comfort. Plants have no idea of where they are outside of the stimuli that they receive through the roots, shoots, and flowers. the light, rainfall, cold and wind are all part and partial to growth success.
Sounds complicated, screw you, I am going down to the street corner pub for a pint..
Nah, it comes down to following some simple directions first. The understanding of why you will pick up as we go along. For now lets start with a simple recipe for success.
But if you must get a pint wait up and I will get my jacket...
Environment
You need to grow in a space that can maintain the humidity, air exchange, and movement that is needed for great growth. This usually means a tent or enclosed space. If you find that humidity is an issue in your location than you will need to find a way to lower it as the plants grow through to the flowering stage. High humidity can cause multiple issues with the health of your girls in the end of the run. If the humidity is too low, you will need to supliment it to a level of greater than 50% at all times during your veg stage, and preferably no lower than 40% through the flowering cycle.
As plants grow they take in Carbon Dioxide and emit Oxygen as a by product of photosynthesis. That is really great for us but it raises some challenges in the grow space that can be easily defeated with proper ventilation. Without it, the plants feel as if they are suffocating. But with proper venting and air movement in the room we are able to mix the old air with fresh outside air and exhaust a percentage of this mix from the room. An oscillating fan or anything you have that can cause a perceptible movement in the canopy across the room will help to get the air mixture even. A good carbon filter and exhaust fan is a must and this is not where you want to save money If you live in Prohibition than you dont need me to tell you, but even if you live in freedom you will know after the first grow how danged important this is. Turn it off for a couple of hours in week 10 and get back with me.
Soil
It's really easy to spark an instant war on this topic and its best to simply say that you should be working with a soil program that you can easily achieve in any location and understand the reason why. Since the goal of this particular discussion is geared towards growers starting out I think that it is more important for us to focus on building a soil profile that leans towards the mechanical aspects of soil plant growth. We will add in additives prior to planting as specified by whatever nutrient program you decide to run. The goal will be free flowing drainage with sufficient organic matter to support microbial growth. A good start is to use 3 parts of a good potting mix that is locally available, Add in 1 part Earth Worm Castings of Mushroom Compost ( I prefer EWC), 1 part Coco coir (washed well), and 1-2 parts medium perlite. Small is fine if that is all you can source.
The best way to mix these things is to run the EWC and coco together and wet it. mix it into the Perlite with your hands and then spread it evenly over a layer of the potting mix and then stir it in. this can help you get an even distribution of additives throughout your soil profile. When you do the wet mix prior to the final blend you would add any soil bacteria or organic additives and fertilizers in with this wet mix so that it gets spread evenly. Uniformity is the hallmark of strong plants. Before adding any limestone product to the mix ( and it should be incorporated) chose and understand the fertilizer program you will use. Your levels of soil amendments will play a part in this.
Crown your container. It should have a gentle swell to the center almost mound like. If you think you are growing a cultivar that might need support this is a good time to bury dowels or supports in the soil before the root system takes it over. Afterwards you are going to hit some roots.
Guaranteed.
After you build out this basic soil it is best if it can have two weeks to two months to rest and age. Make sure to saturate it at the beginning and let it dry off and water again. The cycles will help to aggregate the materials and allow for the bene's to start getting established. I put mine out in the weather to enjoy the good and bad of the outside world. One word on this. When you build out your containers and let them age you will find that they well shrink up significantly. Splashout and compaction will take some volume and letting a pot sit and weather will ensure it is topped off and ready to fly.
If you have to use it hot without aging try to at least saturate it and let it drain and dry once prior to use.
Light
This is another topic where I think you are best to strike up a conversation in the appropriate forum for what you are trying to do. If you are starting out from scratch or just stepping up from the blurple lights that ALL of us own in various stats of dress or redress you wil want to look to lighting that is cool, simple, powerful. Any quick look through our forums will show many local members that have solutions ready made for success.
If you don't know which sort of schedule you want to run than know that most growers opt for 18/6 or 20/4 with commercial operations always leaning towards those two extra hours of lights out in the electric bill.
Nutrients
The 80%/20% rule is in maximum effect.
Never be afraid to ask for help from a nutrient manufacturer, and never do business with one that will not support its product. There are MANY good fertilizer companies out there.
Pick one. Read everything you can find on it. Follow the directions. Learn how to use a ph meter. If you don't know ask someone here. That's all the fertility you will get from me. Huge topic, not working on my post doctorate thesis so...
Water
This will be the part you screw up most I guarantee. Too much, too little, just right, What the hell is this! Is goldilocks going to pop out somewhere in all of this?
It can be as simple or complex as you want to make it. At the minimum Tap water allowed to come to room temp and rest open for 24 hours is the starting point. If you have worries of other contaminants in the local water using Earth Worm Castings (a small handful per gallon) can help to mitigate the levels available to the plant. Simply add them to your water when you fill and let sit for a minimum of 24 hours and more is better. Shake it whenever you can. Before you water check the PH of the water and adjust it to match the ph of the fertilizer apps you give her. I like to pulse feed, giving a high dose Fertilizer app, low dose Fert (60%), and tea (or water) in a cycle. For the sake of simplicity water every other or third time to ensure that you are moving any salt build up down and out of the soil profile.
Make sure that the edges of the top of your root ball are gently dry but not crisp before watering again. IF the edges are gently dry the center is going to be moist but ready for additional water.
Water over two to three events. Same for fertilizers. Get the top of the root ball lightly damp and a small puddle of liquid soaking in. Leave it for 15 to twenty minutes then add roughly the same amount of water into the pot, making sure that ALL of the top of the root ball is now moist. Let it sit for about 30 minutes. Now return and add the remainder of water into the container slowly, making sure it runs in not off. The goal with fertilizer apps is to add just enough liquid to the container that it becomes soaked to capacity and drains lightly out of the bottoms or edge. Fertilizer is expensive so no need to grow tile. When you water with teas use the same procedure but follow through with a little more volume so that you get a gentle run out from your containers after the final app. If you get it right it will simply weep gently for 5-10 minutes as the excess water and salts break free of their mechanical and chemical bonds and release out the bottom of the container.
In the End...
Growing Cannabis is a Subtractive endeavor. Most every seed that we have access to these days is capable of giving us a very nice plant. Every time we fail to make it's environment optimal is a day that we loose out in the end. Annuals, particularly Automatics, are a drag race. Think fighter pilot and conservation of energy. The more snowball you can build early the larger the avalanche.
If its your first grow, pick a simple fertilizer, don't use too small or too big of a container, pay attention to you water, use the best lighting you can afford, and stick to you program. If you think you need a miracle cure regardless of the program you choose try using fulvic acid in your grow from start to finish. It is never a detriment to ANY grow.
And WHEN things go wrong, and they ALWAYS do, places like this are here to help you puzzle through it. Tracks in the sand my brother. When it gets hardest we are going to pick you up and carry you through to that next success.
