Severe Necrosis - Thrips - IPM

[JM]

Welcome!

This thread is to describe how to kill Thrips. If you'v never had a Thrip infestation hope you don't. In fact these methods will wipe most insect issues.... hang tight here we go..



Thrips are tiny insects which have piercing mouth
parts that can do damage to most any plant. If given
the chance, they will take advantage of garden species
as well as common landscape vegetation spreading disease
and causing damage. Since they will readily live on
just about any type of plant, it is important to
control outbreaks when first identified to help
keep damage and populations in check. A few thrips
can easily go unnoticed; a large infestation can
decide the local plants are not enough to eat and
once they start stinging people and pets, you will
surely know they are present!
Thrips are small insects, measuring about 1/25 to
1/8 of an inch long. They range in color from clear
to white to yellow to brown to black. It is generally
believed that local populations will take on a color
similar to that of the plant they are mostly feeding
upon. Although there are thrips with names like
Tobacco Thrips or Flower Thrips, it is evident they
are not specie specific and that they can live on
just about any type of plant which is able to provide
them with a source of sap, juice and water. Thrips
may or may not have wings but most stages do and
these are clear and feather like. Thrips are mobile
and will crawl, jump, walk and fly to any target they
focus upon. Their light bodies and wing structure
enable them to ride wind currents great distances
allowing them to find new food and nest locations
as needed. Though plants are generally where they
want to be nesting, water and high moisture seem
to be more important. It is not uncommon for local
activity to be centered around some area in the landscape
that is holding water. This may serve as a prime
reproductive ground area for them to go through
their pupal stage and to provide protection during
times of drought or plant dormancy. This is more
typical in the northern regions since in the
southern growing zones thrips will remain active
year round.
The life cycle of a thrip is unique and fast. Eggs
are laid on plant tissue and hatching young will
immediately begin to feed on any part of the plant
which presents sap and vital fluids containing nutrition.
After a week or so, these larva will have passed
through two stages having eaten all the time. Once
the third stage begins eating will stop and at this
stage some may even develop wings, fly off or simply
crawl down into leaf litter and mulch to pupate. It
is probably the hatching of the pupa which are most
responsible for the cases involving biting thrips. The
fourth stage, the pupa, is where they turn into fully
mature adults ready to mate and reproduce. Females
have the unique ability to lay eggs which will
prosper whether they mated with a male or not. In
general, eggs produced from fertile females will
yield offspring of either sex; eggs generated by
females which could not find males will produce
nothing but males. This biased result insures the
local population gets a good balance for the future
since thrips develop so quickly. This whole process
from egg to adult can happen in as little as two
weeks depending on the species and the local
environment. For this reason it is important to
realize just how quickly a few can turn into a
few thousand and further explains why it is all
important to head off these developing colonies
and populations when first found.
Though the rapid development of thrips by itself
may not seem like reason to stop this small,
innocent insect from having it's time in the sun, the
damage and discomfort it will cause is more than
enough. Here are some of the common problems
associated with having thrips active and living
on plants in or around the home.
1) The sucking and piercing mouthparts of thrips
are enough to cause substantial to any plant.
Though young plants are more vulnerable, older more
established vegetation can be seriously damaged as well
when a large enough population is feeding on vital
sap - the life's blood of any plant - during the
dry and stressful hot season.
2) Leaves of vegetation will turn brown and curl
causing them to loose their ability to provide
shelter and perform life sustaining photo synthesis.
Defoliation can occur as well which can mean
the certain death for some plants.
3) The biting and sucking of thrips is responsible
for the transmission of plant disease including
many types of fungus and virus.
4) Thrips will readily sting people and pets. Though
not generally identified as a biting pest, thrips
are readily attracted to people. This is thought to
happen because people perspire. This moisture will
readily attract thrips seeking a drink during hot
dry spells. However, they will readily land on people
once populations get large and begin foraging and
migrating. As host plants get filled with thrips
and sap begins to dry and deplete, thrips will
begin to move away by flying, jumping and crawling.
During such times people in close proximity will
become targets as hungry thrips turn to anything
in their way which can provide some nutrition. Such
stings can hurt and cause rashes. It is also
believed the fourth stage of thrips, the pupa, will
readily target people as they hatch. This is very
common in landscape which has high moisture. Well
irrigated lawns, flower beds and gardens are prime
targets for pupating thrips and when they hatch,
they are hungry. If people are present, they will
become targets. Since thrips are small, it is not
uncommon for them to go unseen and many times
misidentified as either a no-seeum, a mosquito or
some type of biting fly. The fast flying thrip is
the common culprit and since they can pass through
just about any window screen, they will readily
find their way into homes. Once in the home, people
and pets will become targets for food; potted
plants will become the prime location for egg
laying and reproduction. In fact, people who bring
inside plants outside during spring and summer months
commonly find thrips nesting and active when these
same plants are brought back inside. These potted
plants have water collectors which thrips will
regularly target. Once in the home, they can become
a constant pest since the temperatures in most homes
will allow them to remain active all year. This is
more common in homes with more vegetation though it
only takes one plant to create the problem. And
though you can use some repellent like CITRONELLA LOTION,
PERMETHRIN or DEET to help keep them off people,
if you don't treat their nest locations you will
have a seemingly never ending supply of this biting
nuisance.


WHAT TREATMENT OPTIONS ARE AVAILABLE FOR THRIPS...

Thrips can become such a nuisance that it is best
to make sure populations are not able to get established
in the first place. Though this sounds easy, because
they develop so fast, plants can quickly get infested.
Fortunately there are many options available which
can you can employ to either prevent or control local
activity.
If you have sensitive vegetables, roses or any type
of plant which you feel will become a target of thrips,
consider pretreating it with NATURAL RX. This ready to
use formulation is comprised of all natural ingredients
like Garlic and essential Plant Oils which act as a
natural repellent to any insect. Treatments won't hurt
vegetation and are very mild; so mild that you won't
even know you any was applied. You can use this product
on fruit, vegetables, any type of vegetation, tree or
shrub and it won't hurt foliage or impact growth. Though
applications only last a week or two, the protection it
provides can help prevent any unwanted damage or loss.
Great for sensitive young plants and valuable crops
which are small and in need of preventive treatments.
Start using it early in the spring to prevent thrips from
ever getting established. If the area you need to treat
isn't a fruit or vegetable plant, you may choose to
apply something a little stronger. FLYING INSECT KILLER
uses a different active, one that will last a week or
so, and is water based so it won't harm treated plants.
Just spray it out over the brush, shrubs or anywhere
the thrips are active - even in the home! It has a
slight odor which will disappear in a short while but
it's very effective on nuisance thrips. This is also
a handy option to keep around for use in gardens. Apply
some just prior to going outside and working. It will
knock down active adults so you can go about your work
without being attacked. Keep it by your side to use as
needed; it will also keep away gnats, wasps and other
flying pests.

 

[JM]

Once thrips are found to be active, you have varying
levels of treatments that can be done depending on
both the type of plant being treated and the strength
of the pesticide you are comfortable using. The author
will now list treatments and product options from the
most gentle to the most extreme. Although all will offer
control, the big difference between these options
will be the length of time they last once applied.
Typically the "safer" a product is regarded means the
shorter residual it will provide. Clearly the longer
any one product will last the general feeling is that
it must somehow be stronger or have some characteristics
which make it more toxic. Though this is rarely the case
it continues to be the most common perception when
toxicity is discussed regarding pesticides. The bottom
line with any of these products is that when they
are in their concentrated form they clearly present
the biggest hazard. Once mixed and diluted, this
hazard is reduced. Once dried following applications,
the only hazard left is one which is present on any
food crop which was treated. Ornamental plants not
being eaten can have products with long residuals;
fruits and vegetables should only be treated with
something that will have a short residual and not
conflict with "days to harvest" or when the fruit
will be picked.
The more common product which can be applied that
poses little risk or hazard is INSECTICIDAL SOAP. Used
by many "natural farmers" and regarded as not being
a true insecticide, Insecticidal Soap will quickly
kill off thriving thrips. It won't hurt plants or
produce which is growing but it will work on just
about any nuisance pest which is feeding and present
during applications. The big limitation of this
material is that it won't provide any residual; once
applied and dried it is essentially gone. This means
you will have to repeat treatments as often as
needed which is usually twice a week during growing
seasons and more if local populations are abundant.
If the thrips are too persistent and you want
something a little stronger which will provide some
residual, use PERMETHRIN CONCENTRATE. This is a
true insecticide which is odorless, easy to mix and
works on just about any pest in and around the
garden. Since it works well for whiteflies and aphids,
Permethrin is a natural for plants which are subject
to a wide range of pests. Most importantly, it is
the strongest product to use on fruits and vegetables
so if you have a garden you are trying to protect,
this is your best bet. It has a complete label which
includes just about any target pest, any plant - fruit
or vegetable - and 1-2 weeks of residual. Probably
the most common active ingredient being used today
by farmers in the agricultural market, Permethrin
has a wide range of uses and presents a low hazard
or danger to mammals.
If you want the strongest option available and don't
intend on treating plants to eat or plants which
will produce fruits or vegetables, consider the use
of TALSTAR. This odorless concentrate is very active
on just about all insects and can be used in and
around the home for a wide range of pests. A little
bit will go a long way which may be required for
large gardens and acreage that needs to be treated.
Talstar is one of the latest active ingredients
available which means there is no resistance issues
by common garden pests. It also means the general
performance will be a little concentrate goes
a long way. As a synthetic pyrethrin, Talstar
delivers on these expectations. Use this if you
have had ongoing problems with any garden pest
including Whiteflies and Aphids since Talstar will
quickly eliminate them.
Once you have made your decision regarding which
of the products listed above to use, the next important
step is insuring you have a good sprayer to apply
the tank mix. Though there are many sprayers generically
available which will suffice, it is important that
any application get complete and uniform coverage. Such
coverage is hard to obtain with many common household
sprayers. We have a line of SPRAYERS which include
special tips and nozzles that make this treatment a
breeze. With the spray pattern optimized, you will be
able to get the most coverage along with the best
results for your time and effort. Furthermore, a good
sprayer will cut down on chemical usage in effect
saving money as well.
Once the right sprayer has been chosen, consider
the use of some SPREADER STICKER, along with the
pesticide being used, to help get that uniform and
complete coverage which is vital for controlling thrips.
Spreader Sticker is an odorless additive which is
mixed with the Pesticide in the tank of the sprayer
you are going to use. Spreader Sticker enhances the
performance of the treatment by enabling the spray
to envelope and "spread" over plant tissue and surfaces.
This allows the applicator to get more area treated
with less effort. One of the more common problems
encountered when spraying for thrips is that much
of the plant can be missed and thrips can be hiding
in such areas. The use of Spreader Sticker will help
minimize such misses. Better coverage translates
to better performance and again less material that
needs to be applied.
For anyone that prefers the use of a dust over a
spray, there are two to consider. PERMETHRIN DUST is
the only choice if you are treating vegetables or
fruit producing plants; DELTAMETHRIN DUST is the stronger of
the two and will provide longer residual for non-edibles.
Apply either with a DUSTIN MIZER which makes treatment
easy compared to old traditional methods of dusting
and allows you to get uniform coverage. Again, this
is critical when treating for thrips and the Dustin
Mizer, along with it's Deflector option, can make dusting
so much easier and yet so much more effective. One of
the advantages of dusting is that you are able to see
exactly where you have treated and where you still need
to get coverage since it will leave a white dust over
the plant. However, this can prove advantageous since
you will be able to tell when the treatment has either
worn or washed away whereas liquid treatments are
invisible and not detectable when gone. Still, for
some the unpleasant sight of a white dusted plant is
enough for them to change over to either of the sprayables
listed.
One more area that should not be ignored is the
treatment of any key wet and damp mulch areas where thrips
may be nesting and pupating. As detailed above, thrips
will feed for a couple of stages and then pupate during
their fourth stage in leaf litter, mulch or grass.
This journey back to the ground means that even the
most complete treatment of plants with active thrips
will not address all areas they populate. You can
spray over the turf of suspected nest sights which
will offer some control. Remember, thrips like it
wet and moist. They will readily move into pine straw,
wood chips, grass, thatch and dirt to pupate and if
you have any such areas around the home, it is best
to treat them. Try to find such areas where moisture
is high; thrips will regularly retreat to such areas
even if they are remotely located from plant/food
supplies. These areas are usually easy to find because
emerging thrips will be active both stinging and
flying. Since this moisture is so important, thrips
will go out of their way to find such locations and
will readily nest in clogged gutters, potted plants
with wet soil or moist bottoms and areas around
garden hoses and water spickets. Be sure to treat
these areas with the liquid material you choose
but if you want some long term protection, apply
some CYFLUTHRIN GRANULES. These are timed released
and will last 2-3 months. The great thing about them
is that they are slow acting and will work on thrips
as they migrate too and from such areas. Furthermore,
areas which harbor moisture - whether intentional
or not - will tend to become the breeding ground for
a host of insects. Cyfluthrin will work on just
about any insect that might try to live there thus
providing pest control for more than just the thrips.
Apply them with a GRANULE SPREADER and you will
insure good coverage. Do this quarterly - once every
three months - and you won't have to worry about
such areas becoming thrip infested.
Thrips are a common pest that will readily infest
many plants in and around the home. Though small
and easy to crush with your fingers, thrips are
a persistent and annoying insect. Help prevent getting
them on any sensitive plant because once you
get them they can cause a lot of damage to host
vegetation as well as spread disease. Use the
Natural RX for prevention; use either Insecticidal
Soap, Permethrin Concentrate or Talstar once you
have them and want to eliminate local populations.
Permethrin or Deltamethrin Dust are two other products
that will work to knock out existing colonies
once found and if you have a lot of damp mulch
areas where they are nesting, use some Cyfluthrin
Granules for long term control and residual. By
keeping this small but troublesome pest under
control you will assuredly keep local plants
protected and not enable them to get so populated
that they start stinging people.

 

[Northern Grower]

Nice mate. i was thinking the same thing, we need some of these kicking around. I'll make sure to sticky it up there so it doesn't go anyware.

B.

 

[JM]

sweet... glad you like... figured I'd get busy getting all this shit up and running! lol

Hope you got lots o hard drive! lol

 

[cheezy4tuna]

Great thread! I had an expierence with thrips, on my last grow. Didn't notice them till about day 30-35, tried using dish soap and garlic which was good for temporarily stunning them. After reading on some websites i was turned on to green lace wings and nematodes. Thrips really dig deep down into the soil to lay there eggs. I ended up realeasing nematodes first into the soil and then a few days later the green lace wings. The nematodes are like lions, killing any larvae in the soil. Green lace wings will take care of thrips in the leaves and on stems. Within in about two weeks noticed the lace wings started dying, since there food source had been eradicated.

 

[JM]

thanks man... and...

yup... I had lady bugs and cucumeris... or whatever they are called again.. lol same here... thrips solved... and about a month later the lady bugs all died off when the food source was gone...