Rusty leaves and yellowing plants on a first(ish) grow. :(

Yeah that's another oddity about these symptoms. It looks like magnesium deficiencies.. but those usually come with some yellow clouding ala chlorosis and I don't see that here. I do very much appreciate you giving a second opinion since I'm still learning this plant. Now the reasons for magnesium lockout can be that the substrate or solution are too sour or there is excess calcium. calcium can be locked out by ammonium, kalium or manesium but since his RH seems to be in a good range it's less likely to be the problem.
My suggestion would be to flush with a 2% magnesium sulphate solution.

Ah it's awesome to be able to get nerdy about plants.. if i talk about that stuff to normal people they just go blank :)
well youve gotten my attention thats for sure you know your stuff which is always handy ;) i love gettin nerdy too :D
 
well youve gotten my attention thats for sure you know your stuff which is always handy ;) i love gettin nerdy too :D

Thx, and seing as you're into hydro you do have mine too. I'm currently looking into building myself a cheap-ish little setup starting with one bucket for starts but enough v/h in the pump to extend it to 4 if I want to. I figured 1gal/min at 1.2m depth should be enough airation? (he asked.. slightly highjacking the thread)
 
Looks to me like nutrient lockout caused by PH issues. The yellowing is N deficiency caused by PH being too high or low, most likely low.



Hey there. I'm Link. This is my first post. This is my first(ish) grow. My gf usually does this stoof, but she's been busy with work lately, so I'm taking the reigns on the diagnosis.

Narcotic Kush AF

Anyways... All three plants are identical as far as germ to pot process, strain, water schedule, etc.. All three are in a 3x3x6 grow tent, 5G pots each. Average Humidity 30-50 Average temp 72-77
Using Biothrive Grow and Bloom, as well as CalMag.

Even though all three were cared for the exact same, Plant 'A' started the rust leaves a few [4?] days ago. 'B' is bushier and shorter than the others, lol. 'C' is very yellow and now has the rust splotches as well.
Any advice would be wonderfully helpful!

View attachment 648146 View attachment 648147 View attachment 648148 <Plant A View attachment 648149 <Plant B View attachment 648150 View attachment 648151 < Plant C View attachment 648144 View attachment 648145 Tent with lights off/on.
 
We used distilled water, and I know she adjusts the PH levels of the water. Not sure the level. 7-7.5? 6-6.5? Something like that.
Right now we're using 2TB of Grow, 8TB of Bloom, and 7TB of CalMag
Lets start with some basics:biggrin:
A solution pH of 6.5 is very good, but not the whole story. What soil mix are you using? Some buffer well, some not so good. Are you checking with a pen or a kit? If you don't have a meter to test soil pH, check the runoff vs the solution, we can get a pretty good idea.
Distilled water, RO, those are tough because of low low ppm, so extra Ca/Mg is almost always needed. I prefer one without any added N.
The rates you're using, how many gallons is that for? And did you just start adding bloom, or has it part of your mix?
Lastly, temps RH and water/feeding schedule. :toke: Wow, huh?!

Calcium deficiencies show themselves in the first 2 weeks starting at the oldest leaves.
Sorry to disagree, Brother. Ca is directly related to a plants transpiration rate, and usually shows in new growth that demands more "limited mobility" micros.
Also, MgSO4-7H2O (Epsom salts) is used more to counteract low Mg levels, although the sulfur content can be beneficial at times.
 
:toke: pardon the delay mates,...
OK, there's more than one thing gone TARFU here, and I'm betting off-pH is at the core of it,... contrary to what some folks hear, using organic nutes doesn't necessarily mean you can skip monitoring your in-soil pH; what you put in does not equate to what the soil pH is, too many other influencing factors... with organics, you need to have some inoculant or poop teas to help keep the soil microbes populated and active, as it's their job to break down many of the nutes into absorbable forms,...otherwise, everything takes longer to get dealt with, often causing deficiencies along the way,... Also, they are mild, so it's more common to get defc.'s with them generally...
Looking at you dosage amounts, how much water are you adding those amounts into? I know the GO line, use them myself! They're good quality,.. do you use the other supplements in that series? Often, if you use just part of a package line-up, you can get defc'.s because each base formula (grow, Bloom) alone isn't totally complete by itself...
... pH 'ing distilled/RO water is a nightmare, because all of the pH buffering minerals (CaCO3) are removed, so even tiny inputs will cause wild shifts in pH and stability is shite! blending with tap water (dechlorinated) is an option, if you know the ppm's hardness (mineral content) via EC or TDS meter... about 150 ppm is a good starting place before nutes, even Ca-Mg is added,.. with DI/RO, Ca-Mg is needed... make sure it's all carbonate based Ca/Mg, not nitrate (should be 0-0-0)
... an in-soil pH is critical to have in order to know what the next step is to deal with it,... using a quality pH probe is best (Accurate 8 makes a good one), otherwise it's the dubious run-off method... let's see what your dosage dilution is first as mentioned above,... ( https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...-testing-and-ph-estimation.41733/#post-928975 )
As for the symptoms, they can occur at any time, depending on your medium, feeds, etc., there's no "schedule" to their manifestation, though some do show more often at certain stages, like bloom initiation.... Mg defc. doesn't cause those broad necrotic patches until very advanced, if at all,... doesn't look like Ca defc. spotting either, though on rarer cases it can but usually with other co-symptoms that help differentiate it... My bet is P defc, notorious for large interveinal necrosis.... the all over paleness is pretty generic, and could be a number of things, and that's the case likely here, not one cause alone,... S defc. can cause it, but tops are affected worst and first and I don't see that here-- (epsoms are MgSO4, if you're using the GO CaMg +, skip it, not needed, and BTW, that product is all carbonate based!)... yellowing in this pattern can be N defc. as well,...
:point:... do NOT flush with an epsoms solution! -- last thing you want is a salt bath going on in there... flushing is usually needed more with synthetic nutes, but if there's a toxicity issue from overdosing the nute's, even with organic, it might be needed,... we'll see pending your answers,....
... Big picture: this late in the game, there's not much you can do to improve yields, best outcome is to correct what you can and have them finish decently,... :biggrin:
 
:toke: pardon the delay mates,...
OK, there's more than one thing gone TARFU here, and I'm betting off-pH is at the core of it,... contrary to what some folks hear, using organic nutes doesn't necessarily mean you can skip monitoring your in-soil pH; what you put in does not equate to what the soil pH is, too many other influencing factors... with organics, you need to have some inoculant or poop teas to help keep the soil microbes populated and active, as it's their job to break down many of the nutes into absorbable forms,...otherwise, everything takes longer to get dealt with, often causing deficiencies along the way,... Also, they are mild, so it's more common to get defc.'s with them generally...
Looking at you dosage amounts, how much water are you adding those amounts into? I know the GO line, use them myself! They're good quality,.. do you use the other supplements in that series? Often, if you use just part of a package line-up, you can get defc'.s because each base formula (grow, Bloom) alone isn't totally complete by itself...
... pH 'ing distilled/RO water is a nightmare, because all of the pH buffering minerals (CaCO3) are removed, so even tiny inputs will cause wild shifts in pH and stability is shite! blending with tap water (dechlorinated) is an option, if you know the ppm's hardness (mineral content) via EC or TDS meter... about 150 ppm is a good starting place before nutes, even Ca-Mg is added,.. with DI/RO, Ca-Mg is needed... make sure it's all carbonate based Ca/Mg, not nitrate (should be 0-0-0)
... an in-soil pH is critical to have in order to know what the next step is to deal with it,... using a quality pH probe is best (Accurate 8 makes a good one), otherwise it's the dubious run-off method... let's see what your dosage dilution is first as mentioned above,... ( https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...-testing-and-ph-estimation.41733/#post-928975 )
As for the symptoms, they can occur at any time, depending on your medium, feeds, etc., there's no "schedule" to their manifestation, though some do show more often at certain stages, like bloom initiation.... Mg defc. doesn't cause those broad necrotic patches until very advanced, if at all,... doesn't look like Ca defc. spotting either, though on rarer cases it can but usually with other co-symptoms that help differentiate it... My bet is P defc, notorious for large interveinal necrosis.... the all over paleness is pretty generic, and could be a number of things, and that's the case likely here, not one cause alone,... S defc. can cause it, but tops are affected worst and first and I don't see that here-- (epsoms are MgSO4, if you're using the GO CaMg +, skip it, not needed, and BTW, that product is all carbonate based!)... yellowing in this pattern can be N defc. as well,...
:point:... do NOT flush with an epsoms solution! -- last thing you want is a salt bath going on in there... flushing is usually needed more with synthetic nutes, but if there's a toxicity issue from overdosing the nute's, even with organic, it might be needed,... we'll see pending your answers,....
... Big picture: this late in the game, there's not much you can do to improve yields, best outcome is to correct what you can and have them finish decently,... [emoji3]
So maybe some humic acid, mykos/azos? Mine seem to stay hella healthy because I always water the above in

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
..no point in adding microbes until pH is known and set in proper range.. it'll just kill them otherwise! Humic is an acid, and if it's too acidic in there, it will make matters worse... humic isn't a nutrient per se, but rather a facilitator for nutrient uptake,...
 
Back
Top