Recycled organic living soil.

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I've been growing with rols for 3 years and it's just getting better with time. Just wanted to see if anyone else has tips comments or grows using rols.
 
Well I guess it depends on if you've done more autos or photo's and grew them to term all season.autos will leave more veg nutes present eventhough it'll be largely depleted.I'd just recharge and treat it accordingly and/or thin said full strength batch if you so choose. sounds like a winner man.what do you like to use to inoculate?
 
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I only grow autos now. When I finish with my autos I then pull the stump out and leave as much roots as possible. I then add my organic material leaf cuttings and Jobes organic soil additives which have a good supply of what I'm looking for. I keep it moist and let it sit till its time to harvest my current grow and then start over. My soil I got from a local mushroom farm and added to it before starting with it. The Jobes organic fertilizer I use and how use it is the key to my setup. I crush up the biozome 4/4/4 and mix in the biozome 2/8/4 pellets. I crush the 4/4/4 so it releases faster and leave the 2/8/4 in slow release form. Also brew teas from them as well. This is a pic of my current grow
 

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so you just rely on whats in the bag then? your going to have to recharge it man. Thanks for the rep too
 
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so you just rely on whats in the bag then? your going to have to recharge it man. Thanks for the rep too
Basically yes it has all micro and major nutrients in it. I never have deficiency or slow growth. I do add worm castings and trimings from my plants and fish poo from my fish tanks.
 
its not just about the health of the plant to be honest.as you know its about a healthy soil.and when you put so much into a soil and its not used some will collect.it'll have to be worked some imo to be a more vigorous soil is all.and needs to be rechanged with some life aside from EWC imo.freshly made vermicompost is ideal but still only so good for so long.I personally like a stronger inoculate but if its workin for ya,Rock it bro!
 
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i don't know if you have looked at biozome science
its not just about the health of the plant to be honest.as you know its about a healthy soil.and when you put so much into a soil and its not used some will collect.it'll have to be worked some imo to be a more vigorous soil is all.and needs to be rechanged with some life aside from EWC imo.freshly made vermicompost is ideal but still only so good for so long.I personally like a stronger inoculate but if its workin for ya,Rock it bro!


BSOs: Beneficial Soil Organisms

The focus at SoilMinerals.com is on the mineral nutrients needed by plants, animals, and people to ensure outstanding nutrition and vibrant health. Why do we also recommend and use beneficial soil fungi and bacteria?

For the same reason that bakers use bread yeast, champagne makers ferment grapes with champagne yeast, brewers add beer yeast, yogurt is made with yogurt starter, and cheesemakers use the culture that will give them the kind of cheese they wish to make. One can wait around and hope that the right yeast spore will fall into the vat and create champagne, or one can increase the odds in their favor by adding the cultures that they want right at the start. It is wise to be sure that the best possible soil life "culture" is there and ready to make the minerals and organic nutrients in the soil available.

BSOs are valuable for freeing nutrients that are in the soil but "tied up". For example, many soils have great phosphate reserves, yet the plants growing on those soils are starving for phosphate. Many farmers and gardeners in this situation resort to adding soluble phosphate fertilizers, in either organic or chemical forms, to a soil that already has plenty of phosphate, only to have the added phosphate tied up and unavailable to plants within a few weeks. The reason for this is that the mineral Phosphorus is an extremely active "acid" mineral. It has a powerful negative - charge, and just can't wait to latch onto the nearest + charge. The nearest + charge is usually Calcium, and together Ca and P form Calcium phosphate, a very stable compound and exactly what bones are made of. Seen any water-soluble bones lately? No, it takes either strong acids or the right microorganisms to break the Ca-P bond.

The USA and other countries have adopted rules for fertilizer labeling that say only water soluble forms of N, P, and K may be listed as fertilizer "claims". Two of the important soil amendments that we recommend and constantly use ourselves are natural phosphate ores: colloidal clay phosphate from Florida and Montana rock phosphate. If one looks at the label on a bag of either of these well-known organic-approved phosphate sources, one will read that they are only rated to contain 3% phosphate (P 2 O 5 ), 0-3-0 is what the bag says, meaning 0% N (Nitrogen), 3% P (phosphate), and 0% K (potash). Yet if one reads the fine print on the label, they learn that the total phosphate content is closer to 30%. So why are these rock phosphates only rated 3% when they contain at least 20% total phophate? Because only 3% of the total weight of the amendment is water-soluble phosphate; the remaining 18-28% is "married" to Calcium, that Calcium-phosphate bond again, and not water soluble. Certain strains of bacteria and fungi are able to to break the Ca-P bond and make the phosphate (and the Calcium) available again to the other soil life and to plants. As a biological process, it proceeds slowly and steadily, providing long-term mineral security.

Another good reason to use pro-biotic soil cultures is that many soils have a hard time breaking down organic matter to form humus, the process of making the minerals and other nutrients in the organic matter available again to the soil life and crops. Seeding the soil or the compost pile with the right biology will greatly assist in breaking down tough plant roots, wood chips, corn stalks, and other "chunks" of organic matter in the soil, releasing the tied-up nutrients all along the way.

Here is a third important reason to use a good BSO culture to seed the soil: Healthy soils always contain healthy symbiotic fungi. 95% of plant species have a natural and ancient alliance with the soil fungi. Some fungi send out their long "roots" called hyphae ( hi -fee) for many meters, both deep into the soil and just below the surface in the topsoil. They search out nutrients and moisture and bring them back to share with the plants. Other fungi are smaller, and only live close to the plants they are partners with. They break down small rock particles while searching for nutrients, digest dead organic matter, and even protect the plants from disease by producing antibiotics; the originals for all of our antibiotics were from the fungi. (Penicillin is produced by the common blue bread mold.) In exchange for being fed, helped, and defended, the plants feed the fungi, sharing the sugars and other carbohydrates that they make in the open air and sunshine with the fungi that never see the sun.

The name for these types of symbiotic fungi is mycorrhizae (my-ko- riz -ee) , or mycorrhizal (my-ko- riz -al) fungi. Myco means fungus and rhizae comes from rhizome and means roots. Fungus root is what they're named and what they are.

Some mycorrhizae (my-ko- riz -ee) actually intergrow with the tiny root hairs of the plants. The plant's roots are a combination of fungus and root tissue; the fungi share their own sap with the plants that are their partners; this type is called endo-mycorrhizae because it lives partly within (endo=inside) the plants that are its symbiotes. 90% of cultivated plants partner with endo-mycorrhizae. Other mycorrhizae grow right next to the plant roots, sharing nutrients with the plants through the soil water/nutrient solution. Ecto- means outside; ecto-mycorrhizzae live entirely outside the plant roots. Most trees and shrubs partner with ecto-mycorrhizae. A good tip if you are planting new or having trouble with old shrubs and trees, either ornamentals or fruiting types, is to find a place where the same plant is healthy and growing well and scrape off a little of the topsoil or surface duff to "seed" the soil around your new or problem plants with the BSOs from where the same plants are thriving. Plants can usually live without their fungal and bacterial partners, but they won't thrive the same way they do when they have all the help they can get.

At SoilMinerals.com we use and recommend Beneficial Soil Organisms (BSOs) because they have proven their value to us in bringing vibrant life to the soil, in protecting the soil and plants from disease and drought, and in making the soil nutrients readily available. The two brands that we use and sell are called BioZome™ archaeobacteria (pronounced ar -kee-oh, meaning ancient bacteria) and MycoApply MAXX™, which is a blend of plant-loving fungi and more "evolved" soil bacteria. There are other good BSO products out there; these two are the ones we know well and use ourselves.

BioZome™, a unique collection of hardy primitive bacteria, is the result of the life's work of the late Dr. Carl Oppenheimer of the University of Texas. Dr. Oppenheimer, a microbiologist, traveled the globe searching out just these sorts of exceedingly hardy life forms from extreme environments like desert salt flats, the craters of active volcanos, and boiling hot springs. He brought them back to his laboratory in Texas and spent many years testing them and experimenting with them. The simple and ancient bacteria in BioZome™ are specially adapted to colonize difficult environments, starting the process of soil formation by etching the nutrient minerals out of the parent rock. They are probably the oldest living organisms on the planet, the ones that begin the process of creating a livable world for us by turning rocks into fertile soil. Some of them can also survive in highly toxic environments such as oil spills, poisonous pesticide residues, and industry-created chemical wastelands.

One strain included in the BioZome™ collection was found living on spilled fuel oil on a dirt floor near the furnace in a cellar in Sweden. These "archaeobacteria" have been shown to be able to eat these sorts of toxins, and in the process turn them into harmless plant food, air, and water. Yes, really. We hope you will not have to grow a garden in any of the above, but it's worth mentioning to those considering reclamation of the local field behind the old gas station. Biozome® is a collection of bacteria, and each strain has its own unique function. If the right conditions exist for a species to live and grow, it will colonize the soil and perform its function, whether that is freeing minerals, breaking down organic matter, or breaking down toxins into harmless components. They are pioneers, these archaeo-bacteria, and they are adapted to creating the niche for the rest of us living things to follow.

The mycorrhizal fungi we use are a collection called MycoApply™ MAXX that contains 4 species of endo- and 7 species of ecto-mycorrhizae along with a bio-stimulant package and a mix of proven beneficial soil bacteria. The beneficial mycorrhizal fungi in MycoApply™ MAXX have a proven ability to make phosphate and other tied-up minerals available to the soil life and plants again.
 
thats great,still dont change the fact that it'll eventually deplete your soil and it'll have to be recharged.plants will anyway.your talking about redoing a well used soil correct? and thats the eventual outcome using a soil roughly two to three times with zero work.the bag will do ok,its just not as good as it could be is all.it still lacks.
 
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When I can I will upload some pics on what's in the bag so to speak and try to explain my methods a little better. What do you like to use for an inoculate?
 
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