This subject has been covered quite a few times, but there are quite a few misconceptions regarding treatment and prevention. This thread will cover everything you need to know about pythium, and some cheap alternatives for prevention and treatment.
[size=+2]What is pythium?[/size]
Pythium is a pathogen that primarily affects the root zone. Pythium has several aliases such as damping off, water mold and root rot. It was formerly thought to be a fungi, but recent studies have proven otherwise. Pythium can be considered an advantageous parasite, because it typically develops when growing conditions are not optimal. Pythium releases spores that can spread very quickly to the other organisms in your grow environment.
[size=+2]Do I have pythium?[/size]
Pythium is far easier to prevent than it is to treat. There are expensive prevention measures, and cheap alternatives for growers that are not operating high budget grow rooms. First we will cover the basics.
You should be utilizing at-least one of the methods mentioned here.
[size=+1]Water Temperature[/size]
Maintaining a cool temperature in your reservoir is easily the best prevention. Unfortunately it is typically not budget friendly or plausible for some hydroponic setups. 62 - 65 degrees Fahrenheit is generally recommended.
The budget method is placing frozen water bottles in your reservoir. This can become very tedious. The expensive method is hooking up a water cooler or chiller. They generally range anywhere from $220 - $800+, and can be limiting based on the type of hydroponic setup you have.
[size=+1]H2O2[/size]
H2O2 is a strong oxidizer that contains an extra oxygen atom. I recommend the 29% solution by nutrilife. It costs about $12 per liter. The dosage is 3mL per 4 liters (per gallon basically). H2O2 typically dissipates in 2 - 3 days, and it is safe to use at the recommended dosage levels. I personally know several growers that used this before they could afford water chillers. This cannot be used with organic nutrients.
[size=+1]Chlorine[/size]
I expect many people will claim this method is counterproductive and should never be used. I personally use it without any negative consequences, and it is easily the most cost effective. This cannot be used with organic nutrients.
You will need a bottle of concentrated, non scented, Clorox bleach with 8.25% Sodium Hypochlorite. You will also need 1 gallon of reverse osmosis water. It should cost about $3 for both.
Mix 1/2 cup (8 tbsp) of concentrated Clorox with 1 gallon of reverse osmosis water. Mix well and store in a cool dark place. Do not store this in your refrigerator.
Use 1.5 tsp (7.3mL) per 4 liters (per gallon basically) of water in your reservoir. Add this amount every 3 days for prevention. Make sure you are adding the diluted solution provided in the paragraph above.
I just want to make a few points about why this is safe. If you don't care, then just skip the ordered list.
[size=+1]Beneficial Bacteria[/size]
Beneficial bacteria, otherwise known as bennies, is really the only prevention besides water temperature that I know of for organic growers. This method will also work for non-organic growers. This method introduces large amounts of aerobic bacteria that fight off anaerobic bacteria. Because there is already a large thread on this for prevention and treatment, I am just going to provide a link.
http://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka.html
[size=+1]Growing Media Rinses[/size]
Every 3 weeks I like to rinse my growing media with a gallon of water containing 4mL of 29% H2O2. After a minute I run tap water over the growing media for about 5 minutes to ensure all of the H2O2 has been washed off.
[size=+1]Enzymes[/size]
Pythium loves to feed on dead roots. We can help remove these dead roots by using an enzyme that converts them into food for our plants. I personally use pond-zyme because it is a cheap alternative to the enzymes manufactured for hydroponics. If you want to use enzymes made for growing, however, then use hygrozyme or cannazym. All 3 do the same thing. You can safely use enzymes with organic and non-organic nutrients.
[size=+2]Treating pythium.[/size]
Established pythium is nearly impossible to completely cure. You can inhibit its effects and at-least get a harvest if you are proactive. The first step is determining is it worth fighting? If you are still early in the grow, then I would suggest starting over. Perhaps try to get some clones if you are not growing an autoflower. Make sure you sterilize everything regardless of your decision. Replacing the cheap things like air line and air stones is not a bad idea either.
If you want to fight it, then lets start with the most important things first. If you are using a hydroponic system that doesn't provide each plant an isolated water source, then immediately remove any infected plants from the system and isolate them. For example; ebb and flow and recirculating deep water culture systems. Sterilize everything with bleach or H2O2. Completely clean and replace the water in an infected system every 4 days.
Now we need to determine why the pythium started in the first place. If we can't correct this, then the pythium will always be an issue. Read the preventing pythium section to help make necessary corrections.
[size=+1]Beneficial Bacteria[/size]
I have a bit of information about this in the prevention section, and you can read all about it by clicking the link below. If you have advanced pythium or slime then you need to use this method. This is the only treatment method I am aware of for organic growers, but it works with non-organic nutrients too.
http://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka.html
[size=+1]H2O2[/size]
I have personally and successfully used this to keep pythium at bay. If you are using 29% nutrilife, then I would suggest using 4mL per 4 liters (per gallon basically). H2O2 can dissipate rather quickly, so replace it every 2 - 3 days. Because H2O2 kills all bacteria, you need to use it for the remainder of your grow. This cannot be used with organic nutrients.
[size=+1]Chlorine[/size]
I have also personally and successfully used chlorine to fight pythium. This is also the cheapest way to fight pythium. Look at the chlorine sub-section under prevention for a cheap way to make it. Instead of using 1.5 tsp as I suggested in the prevention section, you need to use 2.5tsp (12.3mL) per 4 liters (per gallon basically). Every 24 hours add 1tsp (4.9mL) per 4 liters into the reservoir for maintenance because chlorine dissipates quickly. This cannot be used with organic nutrients, and you must use it for the remainder of your grow. Use 2.5 tsp (12.3mL) every time you clean and change your reservoir water.
[size=+1]Enzymes[/size]
Enzymes will help remove dead roots from the reservoir so pythium has one less source to flourish with. Read the enzymes sub-section under prevention for brands and more information. Follow the label for dosage information. Using more than directed will not help.
If you have any other prevention or treatment options that you would like to see here, then please post them and I will add them if they seem plausible.
[size=+2]What is pythium?[/size]
Pythium is a pathogen that primarily affects the root zone. Pythium has several aliases such as damping off, water mold and root rot. It was formerly thought to be a fungi, but recent studies have proven otherwise. Pythium can be considered an advantageous parasite, because it typically develops when growing conditions are not optimal. Pythium releases spores that can spread very quickly to the other organisms in your grow environment.
[size=+2]Do I have pythium?[/size]
- The earliest indicator is smell. It has a very distinct mold smell.
- The roots develop a tan color, and they eventually become dark brown as it progresses. Certain micro nutrients, especially organics, can cause tan coloration to the root zone.
- pH increases in acidity. A healthy system will decrease in acidity.
- Disjointed roots accumulating in your reservoir and filters.
- Older fan leaves become necrotic and eventually die.
Pythium is far easier to prevent than it is to treat. There are expensive prevention measures, and cheap alternatives for growers that are not operating high budget grow rooms. First we will cover the basics.
- Sterilization is critical for any grow room. All equipment should be cleaned with hydrogen peroxide or diluted bleach consistently. This includes pH meters, TDS meters, droppers, buckets, net pots, air lines, air stones, pumps and anything else that will come in contact with the grow room. The grow room should be cleaned before and after every grow. Debris and dead plant matter should always be removed. Pets should never be in the grow room.
- Light leaks into your reservoir should be minimized as much as possible. Use black air line and black reservoirs. Alternatively you can wrap your reservoirs with tin foil, black trash bags or insulation. Completely fill your net pot or bucket basket with your growing media.
- Properly aerate all water. Pythium has a hard time developing in highly oxygenated environments. There is no such thing as too much dissolved oxygen in hydroponics, so don't settle for a cheap air pump.
You should be utilizing at-least one of the methods mentioned here.
[size=+1]Water Temperature[/size]
Maintaining a cool temperature in your reservoir is easily the best prevention. Unfortunately it is typically not budget friendly or plausible for some hydroponic setups. 62 - 65 degrees Fahrenheit is generally recommended.
The budget method is placing frozen water bottles in your reservoir. This can become very tedious. The expensive method is hooking up a water cooler or chiller. They generally range anywhere from $220 - $800+, and can be limiting based on the type of hydroponic setup you have.
[size=+1]H2O2[/size]
H2O2 is a strong oxidizer that contains an extra oxygen atom. I recommend the 29% solution by nutrilife. It costs about $12 per liter. The dosage is 3mL per 4 liters (per gallon basically). H2O2 typically dissipates in 2 - 3 days, and it is safe to use at the recommended dosage levels. I personally know several growers that used this before they could afford water chillers. This cannot be used with organic nutrients.
[size=+1]Chlorine[/size]
I expect many people will claim this method is counterproductive and should never be used. I personally use it without any negative consequences, and it is easily the most cost effective. This cannot be used with organic nutrients.
You will need a bottle of concentrated, non scented, Clorox bleach with 8.25% Sodium Hypochlorite. You will also need 1 gallon of reverse osmosis water. It should cost about $3 for both.
Mix 1/2 cup (8 tbsp) of concentrated Clorox with 1 gallon of reverse osmosis water. Mix well and store in a cool dark place. Do not store this in your refrigerator.
Use 1.5 tsp (7.3mL) per 4 liters (per gallon basically) of water in your reservoir. Add this amount every 3 days for prevention. Make sure you are adding the diluted solution provided in the paragraph above.
I just want to make a few points about why this is safe. If you don't care, then just skip the ordered list.
- Chlorine has effectively been used to treat city water for years. Many cities now use the stronger oxidizer chloramine.
- Commercial mass production companies use chlorine to treat the water provided to their crops. Some also use chloramine.
- Hikers use chlorine to sanitize water from streams or other viable sources.
- Flairform produces a product called pythoff. Care to guess what it has in it?
[size=+1]Beneficial Bacteria[/size]
Beneficial bacteria, otherwise known as bennies, is really the only prevention besides water temperature that I know of for organic growers. This method will also work for non-organic growers. This method introduces large amounts of aerobic bacteria that fight off anaerobic bacteria. Because there is already a large thread on this for prevention and treatment, I am just going to provide a link.
http://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka.html
[size=+1]Growing Media Rinses[/size]
Every 3 weeks I like to rinse my growing media with a gallon of water containing 4mL of 29% H2O2. After a minute I run tap water over the growing media for about 5 minutes to ensure all of the H2O2 has been washed off.
[size=+1]Enzymes[/size]
Pythium loves to feed on dead roots. We can help remove these dead roots by using an enzyme that converts them into food for our plants. I personally use pond-zyme because it is a cheap alternative to the enzymes manufactured for hydroponics. If you want to use enzymes made for growing, however, then use hygrozyme or cannazym. All 3 do the same thing. You can safely use enzymes with organic and non-organic nutrients.
[size=+2]Treating pythium.[/size]
Established pythium is nearly impossible to completely cure. You can inhibit its effects and at-least get a harvest if you are proactive. The first step is determining is it worth fighting? If you are still early in the grow, then I would suggest starting over. Perhaps try to get some clones if you are not growing an autoflower. Make sure you sterilize everything regardless of your decision. Replacing the cheap things like air line and air stones is not a bad idea either.
If you want to fight it, then lets start with the most important things first. If you are using a hydroponic system that doesn't provide each plant an isolated water source, then immediately remove any infected plants from the system and isolate them. For example; ebb and flow and recirculating deep water culture systems. Sterilize everything with bleach or H2O2. Completely clean and replace the water in an infected system every 4 days.
Now we need to determine why the pythium started in the first place. If we can't correct this, then the pythium will always be an issue. Read the preventing pythium section to help make necessary corrections.
[size=+1]Beneficial Bacteria[/size]
I have a bit of information about this in the prevention section, and you can read all about it by clicking the link below. If you have advanced pythium or slime then you need to use this method. This is the only treatment method I am aware of for organic growers, but it works with non-organic nutrients too.
http://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka.html
[size=+1]H2O2[/size]
I have personally and successfully used this to keep pythium at bay. If you are using 29% nutrilife, then I would suggest using 4mL per 4 liters (per gallon basically). H2O2 can dissipate rather quickly, so replace it every 2 - 3 days. Because H2O2 kills all bacteria, you need to use it for the remainder of your grow. This cannot be used with organic nutrients.
[size=+1]Chlorine[/size]
I have also personally and successfully used chlorine to fight pythium. This is also the cheapest way to fight pythium. Look at the chlorine sub-section under prevention for a cheap way to make it. Instead of using 1.5 tsp as I suggested in the prevention section, you need to use 2.5tsp (12.3mL) per 4 liters (per gallon basically). Every 24 hours add 1tsp (4.9mL) per 4 liters into the reservoir for maintenance because chlorine dissipates quickly. This cannot be used with organic nutrients, and you must use it for the remainder of your grow. Use 2.5 tsp (12.3mL) every time you clean and change your reservoir water.
[size=+1]Enzymes[/size]
Enzymes will help remove dead roots from the reservoir so pythium has one less source to flourish with. Read the enzymes sub-section under prevention for brands and more information. Follow the label for dosage information. Using more than directed will not help.
If you have any other prevention or treatment options that you would like to see here, then please post them and I will add them if they seem plausible.
Last edited:
