PH SCREWED IN FLOWER! PLEASE HELP!

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Saw the purpling first on the cheese haze and being a beginner thought it was just a cool colouring effect but now am thinking something else. Started to show on a chemdogging which is earlier in flower as well. Am feeding 2ml of Bio PK (Biotabs) in 1.5L water everyday. What do y'all think?

PLANT ONE - NORTHERN CHEESE HAZE
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PLANT TWO - CHEMDOGGING


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I'm guess first one low in phosphorus...second plant low in nitrogen and potassium.

Nutrient uptake issues:

what's your grow medium?

what's the pH of your water/fert?

You're not over watering are you?

Just trying to get a handle on factors that may influence..

Cheers
Toad
 
I'm guess first one low in phosphorus...second plant low in nitrogen and potassium.

Nutrient uptake issues:

what's your grow medium?

what's the pH of your water/fert?

You're not over watering are you?

Just trying to get a handle on factors that may influence..

Cheers
Toad


1st one i think you are right about P, weird as i gave this one the biggest dose of Bio PK, but it is also the most advanced flowering plant.
2nd one, i think you are right about K after further inspection. N was an issue before but not so much with new undergrowth coming through so less worried about this tbh.
Have given those two a slightly higher dose of the PK today. Will observe and adapt. If it gets worse after what i have just done,. i will likely do a mini flush. Really need to get a good quality PH soil prob, as i only have water tester. I bought a cheap soil probe and fuck me, it is trash, no matter what medium i put it inside, it just says 7 lol. it never worked out of the box. joke. might have a good soil PH probe this week hopefully..maybe i bite the bullet and go bluelabs

what's your grow medium?

soil

what's the pH of your water/fert?

RO water about 6.7 PH and 20ppm . (have not checked with ferts in water for Bio PK yet (i do have water Ph tester) - i will will tmr though. all organics. didnt think this mattered as much)

You're not over watering are you?

Nah really dont think so. I give about 1.5L every day in a 5-6 gallon pot when they are just before the stage where u pick up the plant and is literally just the weight of the plant. i.e. dry. although i admit i was previously doing 3-4.5L every 3 days before but switched recently because in my organic system its better to keep soil slightly moist + am uding dehumidifier at this stage so better to do it mor eoften and pay mor eattention etc...anyway no i have felt when a plant/.pot is bone dry this grow and do that almost daily so it cant be overwatering. if anything its PH or lockout is my guess..
 
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:smoking: hey Trop'!

They look a little longer term starved, maybe the Tabs fizzed out early, or not enough?
top to bottom color fade looks like S defc., mild P defc. can contribute to this as well, along with that color burnishing... That siad, I don't know this strain well, but if she has NL in her this color could be normal expression, at least in part.... that the margin teeth are showing this says mild K defc. too.. I'm betting hidden in here are micronutrient defc's too, all are common with BioTabs... I'd feed that BioPK at full strength, and mix 1tsp epsoms/L for a big SO4 boost, Mg too,...

Are you using the inoculants? Humic-Fulvic, Si...?
 
:smoking: hey Trop'!

They look a little longer term starved, maybe the Tabs fizzed out early, or not enough?
top to bottom color fade looks like S defc., mild P defc. can contribute to this as well, along with that color burnishing... That siad, I don't know this strain well, but if she has NL in her this color could be normal expression, at least in part.... that the margin teeth are showing this says mild K defc. too.. I'm betting hidden in here are micronutrient defc's too, all are common with BioTabs... I'd feed that BioPK at full strength, and mix 1tsp epsoms/L for a big SO4 boost, Mg too,...

Are you using the inoculants? Humic-Fulvic, Si...?

thank you buddy. this makes lots of sense. i was suspect of 3 things: underfed, PH, nute lockout.

PH: yesterday i ordered what should a quality PH meter for $70. it is on the way! waiting on this.

Nute lockout: my shitty PH meter has an NPK feature which seems to work, before said soil had enough nutes, now says low. PH function never worked, so can be trusted? idk...prob yes is my guess. so im guessing it aint nute lockout/excess (especially based off your opinion now as well)

underfed: given all issues i had and with removing tabs and so on and now seeing other plans starting to fade, yes i think this is correct.

i have just crushed up half a tab and feed to each plant along with 10ml Orgatrex, 1g bactrex and 1tsp epsom per 1.5L water.
Tomorrow I will give a big feed of Bio PK and then try to continue from there as well as testing the soil PH.


Thank you so much @Waira !!!
 
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@Waira @Arthur @BakEQ Oh dear lord!!!! Finally got a good quality soil PH meter! Just tested my flowering plants and all show PH of about 5.2. This was local unbranded supersoil, mixed by granny herself (no joke), so is the soil PH more likely to be fucked cos of something ive done or because it was doomed from the start?

My second question is WTF can i do to try get the shitty supersoil PH up from 5.2? They only have a few weeks to go. I have dolomite lime but this takes weeks to have an effect? Do i flush with pure RO till PH is good and then final bit of flush with flowering nutes?

The good news is that my new Forum Stomper test (last pic) in my own custom soil blend shows a PH of 6.2 at midway through week 4. So promising signs for my next round of plants. This also makes me thinks it aint the nutrients which have caused bad PH in other plants, especially as gave the test a big dose or orgatrex, bactrex and epsom just yesterday., which i thought would have made the soil more acidic...yet my blend is still good..


water source = bottled RO. 6.7 PH & 20ppm
 

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@Waira @Arthur @BakEQ Oh dear lord!!!! Finally got a good quality soil PH meter! Just tested my flowering plants and all show PH of about 5.2. This was local unbranded supersoil, mixed by granny herself (no joke), so is the soil PH more likely to be fucked cos of something ive done or because it was doomed from the start?

My second question is WTF can i do to try get the shitty supersoil PH up from 5.2? They only have a few weeks to go. I have dolomite lime but this takes weeks to have an effect? Do i flush with pure RO till PH is good and then final bit of flush with flowering nutes?

The good news is that my new Forum Stomper test (last pic) in my own custom soil blend shows a PH of 6.2 at midway through week 4. So promising signs for my next round of plants. This also makes me thinks it aint the nutrients which have caused bad PH in other plants, especially as gave the test a big dose or orgatrex, bactrex and epsom just yesterday., which i thought would have made the soil more acidic...yet my blend is still good..


water source = bottled RO. 6.7 PH & 20ppm
OK buddy. You really gotta listen here. I have been afraid to reply because I'm worried its just gonna make you do more.. In my most personal opinion, you do too much. Just chill and look at the plants. They need time to show you signs of recovery before you go add some more stuff to them.

What you have is a lockout. The EC/ PPM runoff is a major indication. The high amount and frequency of feeding caused salt build-up and locked out nutrients. Soil becomes acidic. Then, you continued feeding more and more, which made it worse. Forget runoff PH. Soil will adjust itself once you clear the lockout. Runoff PPM is a fine indicator but PH is totally inaccurate. Could be direct opposite sometimes. You need to chill for at least a week and observe recovery. It only happens a little a day. Barely noticeable so u gotta look and observe. Do not expect immediate results and start adding this and that when you don't see it. Remember, you don't do anything much. The plants are the ones doing their thing.

You already flushed them so I would let them have a chance to dry out. Your starting runoff PPMs are very high. Get them down but don't do anything drastic. If I were you, I'd Just water with PLAIN PHed water till a little runoff from now till harvest, since you say its only 2 weeks left.

You should see them starting to green up slowly. BUT If you see burning of leave tips as they get greener, don't panic! It may not make sense since you are only feeding plain water, but it does. As the salt build-up clears, plant begin to be able to access nutrients. Your salt build-up clears/dilutes bit by bit each time you run plain water over it. So its still hot. It always was. Plant just wasn't able to get to it. Once you open the floodgates, it may be a bit too much for a while until the plant uses up the nutes. Do NOT add nutrients when you see this. I'd feed again once runoff ppm goes below 450ppm when I feed plain water. Maybe they would finish by then, Maybe not.

You'll be surprised how little they need in terms of nutes and how easy it is to overdo it
 
OK buddy. You really gotta listen here. I have been afraid to reply because I'm worried its just gonna make you do more.. In my most personal opinion, you do too much. Just chill and look at the plants. They need time to show you signs of recovery before you go add some more stuff to them.

What you have is a lockout. The EC/ PPM runoff is a major indication. The high amount and frequency of feeding caused salt build-up and locked out nutrients. Soil becomes acidic. Then, you continued feeding more and more, which made it worse. Forget runoff PH. Soil will adjust itself once you clear the lockout. Runoff PPM is a fine indicator but PH is totally inaccurate. Could be direct opposite sometimes. You need to chill for at least a week and observe recovery. It only happens a little a day. Barely noticeable so u gotta look and observe. Do not expect immediate results and start adding this and that when you don't see it. Remember, you don't do anything much. The plants are the ones doing their thing.

You already flushed them so I would let them have a chance to dry out. Your starting runoff PPMs are very high. Get them down but don't do anything drastic. If I were you, I'd Just water with PLAIN PHed water till a little runoff from now till harvest, since you say its only 2 weeks left.

You should see them starting to green up slowly. BUT If you see burning of leave tips as they get greener, don't panic! It may not make sense since you are only feeding plain water, but it does. As the salt build-up clears, plant begin to be able to access nutrients. Your salt build-up clears/dilutes bit by bit each time you run plain water over it. So its still hot. It always was. Plant just wasn't able to get to it. Once you open the floodgates, it may be a bit too much for a while until the plant uses up the nutes. Do NOT add nutrients when you see this. I'd feed again once runoff ppm goes below 450ppm when I feed plain water. Maybe they would finish by then, Maybe not.

You'll be surprised how little they need in terms of nutes and how easy it is to overdo it


Im talking about my actual soil PH is 5.0-5.2.

I just got a good PH soil meter and used it for first time today.

you are ofc right about less, my new test grow proves this. the medium must be well prepared in advance.

P.S. Please do not be afraid to comment. i know i have done too much and your replies have helped me a ton. I am not panicking into doing too much an know it is now too late to "cure my plants and set off in the sunset". By making these mistakes i am learning more than I would otherwise imo. This is just a test round and next time i hope to apply most of what i have learnt.
 
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Im talking about my actual soil PH is 5.0-5.2.

I just got a good PH soil meter and used it for first time today.

you are ofc right about less, my new test grow proves this. the medium must be well prepared in advance.

P.S. Please do not be afraid to comment. i know i have done too much and your replies have helped me a ton. I am not panicking into doing too much an know it is now too late to "cure my plants and set off in the sunset". By making these mistakes i am learning more than I would otherwise imo. This is just a test round and next time i hope to apply most of what i have learnt.
I am aware about your new pen and the readings. Its no surprise really. But that doesn't change anything i said. There is nothing you can do to change Soil ph overnight. We already know its likely from salt build-up so lets clear that up first. Your PH will adjust itself then. FYI Soil PH changes all the time. Different reading when wet and dry.

If you concur with my opinion, give plain water for at least one week. Most people do that the last 2 weeks anyways. If not, let another more qualified member chime in. I could be totally wrong.
 
I am aware about your new pen and the readings. Its no surprise really. But that doesn't change anything i said. There is nothing you can do to change Soil ph overnight. We already know its likely from salt build-up so lets clear that up first. Your PH will adjust itself then. FYI Soil PH changes all the time. Different reading when wet and dry.

If you concur with my opinion, give plain water for at least one week. Most people do that the last 2 weeks anyways. If not, let another more qualified member chime in. I could be totally wrong.

Thanks buddy and you may very well be right about lockout cos i was giving quite high doses of calmag for about 10 days into the soil by mistake. Your logic is sound.

Given @Waira thinks they might be "longer term underfed", which also could quite possibly be true since i removed the Biotabs early on and gave a weaker dosing midway tthan i was supposed too, i think i will wait for him to chime in once more and then make a decision as both are opposite ends of the secptrum. One says give huge dose of food and other says plain water for a mini gradual flush over coming days. Perhaps my low PH gives him further insight...

These newer problems def appeared when the plants entered hard flowering mode..which was several days after i stopped giving calmag..
 
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