overwaterd from waterlogged soil!!??

[Hugo]

Yes it does.

Foliar feeding is a ‘by-pass’ approach, overtaking conventional ground fertiliser applications whenever it does not perform well enough. Foliar application overcomes soil fertilisation limitations like leaching, insoluble fertiliser precipitation, antagonism between certain nutrients, heterogenic soils unsuitable for low dosages, and fixation/absorption reactions like in the case of phosphorus and potassium. Foliar feeding can also be used to overcome root problems when they are suffering from limited activity due to low/high temperatures (<100, >400C), lack of oxygen in flooded fields, nematode attack damaging the vascular system, and a decrease in root activity during the reproductive stages where more of the photosynthetic creation is transferred for reproduction with less for root respiration (Trobisch and Schilling, 1970). Foliar feeding has proved to be the fastest way of curing nutrient deficiencies and boosting plant performances at specific physiological stages.

I would definetly foliar feed it as proven worthy by experts. Use at most 1/3 of recomended dosage by nutrients supplier. Do you know how to foliar feed properly? What are your feeding habits?

 

[Hugo]

Yes it does.

Foliar feeding is a ‘by-pass’ approach, overtaking conventional ground fertiliser applications whenever it does not perform well enough. Foliar application overcomes soil fertilisation limitations like leaching, insoluble fertiliser precipitation, antagonism between certain nutrients, heterogenic soils unsuitable for low dosages, and fixation/absorption reactions like in the case of phosphorus and potassium. Foliar feeding can also be used to overcome root problems when they are suffering from limited activity due to low/high temperatures (<10º, >40ºC), lack of oxygen in flooded fields, nematode attack damaging the vascular system, and a decrease in root activity during the reproductive stages where more of the photosynthetic creation is transferred for reproduction with less for root respiration (Trobisch and Schilling, 1970). Foliar feeding has proved to be the fastest way of curing nutrient deficiencies and boosting plant performances at specific physiological stages.

I would definetly foliar feed it as proven worthy by experts. Use at most 1/3 of recomended dosage by nutrients supplier. Do you know how to foliar feed properly? What are your feeding habits?

 

[Gandolph420]

Yea, you've lost a lot of colour in those leaves, but it doesnt look too bad. I would just keep an eye on it and let time do its thing. When she starts to come around, I would just water with plain ph'd water, flush lightly until it drains, check run-off for ph (lets hope its in the 5.5-6.5 range). If ph'd ok then start a light feeding regiment on your next feeding, and remember to lift the pot before watering to make sure the soil is dry.(2-4 days)

I have no worries you'll be ok, goodluck sir!

 

[The Squid]

The Secrets of Foliar Feeding>>>>>>>>>>>>

https://www.autoflower.org/content/secrets-foliar-feeding-297/

 

[Gandolph420]

I wouldnt suggest foliar feeding for water logging, maybe for a lockout, and if the water he used already had nutes in it then he could be over feeding the plant.

As that water dries the ppms are going to sky rocket....just be careful, thats all.

Yes it does.

Foliar feeding is a ‘by-pass’ approach, overtaking conventional ground fertiliser applications whenever it does not perform well enough. Foliar application overcomes soil fertilisation limitations like leaching, insoluble fertiliser precipitation, antagonism between certain nutrients, heterogenic soils unsuitable for low dosages, and fixation/absorption reactions like in the case of phosphorus and potassium. Foliar feeding can also be used to overcome root problems when they are suffering from limited activity due to low/high temperatures (<10º, >40ºC), lack of oxygen in flooded fields, nematode attack damaging the vascular system, and a decrease in root activity during the reproductive stages where more of the photosynthetic creation is transferred for reproduction with less for root respiration (Trobisch and Schilling, 1970). Foliar feeding has proved to be the fastest way of curing nutrient deficiencies and boosting plant performances at specific physiological stages.

I would definetly foliar feed it as proven worthy by experts. Use at most 1/3 of recomended dosage by nutrients supplier. Do you know how to foliar feed properly? What are your feeding habits?

 

[Hugo]

He can leach the soil like you said after. Now I believe he needs to prevent nutrient deficiencys from oxygen and nutrient lockouts with the flooded roots. N might be the first symptoms to appear.

I agree it's definitely important to know the pH of the soil at the moment. That can be done by measuring pH of water recently leached from pot. Should also care to allow water to run-off pot as stated by other grower before.

 

[GoTgReEn]

Thanks everyone for the advice!

 

[GoTgReEn]

Yea, you've lost a lot of colour in those leaves, but it doesnt look too bad. I would just keep an eye on it and let time do its thing. When she starts to come around, I would just water with plain ph'd water, flush lightly until it drains, check run-off for ph (lets hope its in the 5.5-6.5 range). If ph'd ok then start a light feeding regiment on your next feeding, and remember to lift the pot before watering to make sure the soil is dry.(2-4 days)

I have no worries you'll be ok, goodluck sir!

Dude you are a legend! This is sound advice for me, if ph is 7 should i flush with ph 6.5 until its lower? Scared all this water will drowned her! i watered last with nutes so have stopped foliar feeding as you recommend

 

[bgrt]

that would yeh. im doing it myself slowly, if severely out of range then dolomite lime/sulfur would be the thing to use depending on if it was too high or low.
this is what i was told asking about ph'ing

All the company literature I've seen says to only keep the probe in storage solution, but I've read where many use the 7 calibration and have no problems. What you want to avoid is storing it in distilled water, which will apparently damage the probe over time.

I test runoff by pHing my solution to something middle of the road like 6.5. Then I water until I get drops coming out of the drainage holes, and I collect that fluid and test it. I think the first drops are most accurate as they show you exactly what affect the soil has on the water, but the more that comes out you're going to naturally see it drift towards the same pH as the water coming in. I use a small pitcher and I know roughly how much each pot takes before it starts draining, so it's pretty easy to do all this. If I watered with 6.5 and my runoff was 6.3, I'd figure that my soil pH is somewhere around 6.2. So the next time if I want to bring that up I may water with 6.7 until my runoff comes up to exactly where I want it. It'll move around some depending on the plant and what stage of growth it's in, but you can keep it within range fairly easily with some practice.

whatever you do dont water further imo, you need to let that dry out before doing anything. wait till the pot is light compared to when it was watered. then run through ph'd water and let dry again before repeating(with nutes if needed). foliar feed for deficiencies if needed rather than watering (only my opinion though).

 

[GoTgReEn]

Thanks so much for the help guys you all deserve + rep just don't know how to give it!!
as far as my girl goes Im gonna let her dry out and fix the high ph hope this helps as she is a runt compared to her sister.