Indoor Nutrient help

[GMAW]

I like simple. The more simple it is the better I like it.

Organic growing works great for me outdoors. Inside, I am a failure.

I have a bluelab combo meter. I want to run chem fertilizer next run.

I am looking for a reputable SOIL based chemical fertilizer, a one part or two part system that I can mix up, PH adjust, measure EC and thats it.

Im using basic peat potting soil with lime, sand and perlite. The potting soil should last about 30 days on nutrients, so maybe a bloom only fertilizer can work. Anyway let me know what you used and how it worked.

Simple and cost effective is my goal. Thanks for any help.

 

[namvet25]

First off I suggest not using sand in your mix,it just adds to a heavy pot and soil compaction.I have used Dyna Gro nutes with great success and there easy to use and inexpensive.Another good one is General Hydroponics flora series easy to use and also inexpensive that i'm using now and it is working great.

 

[talkative]

Espoma Tomato Tone about one cup per plant. I'm now experimenting with Flower Tone for my autos. After they quit growing you can add a very small amount of Jacks Blossom Booster and it will put some weight on your buds.

The tomato tone is fantastic for photos at the rate of 5 cups per 32qts of soil mix. But it is a little too much nitrogen for my autos and they were growing too tall with long branches while the poor plant is trying to flower. but that's all I would use germ to harvest, one time in the soil before planting. This flowertone is very hot at that rate. But same idea. premix granular fertilizer in the soil before planting. Avoid any store bought soil that has time release or any fertilizer for that matter simply because you will be operating blind and won't know how much to increase or decrease. Eventually though, the goal is to set up an operation to reuse your soil and go back to 100% organic. But that takes a lot of time and usually space and worms. I would not waste one penny on any liquid fertilizer. Other than like I say Jacks. One tub lasts a lifetime. 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. Maybe feed 1/2 gal per plant every 5 days or so, depending on how they take it. But that is after they have stopped getting taller. So just a few times. My side by side makes me thinks it makes a difference but is certainly not necessary if you start with a good mix.

 

[arpowre3]

I like AN grow, micro, bloom. Pretty dang easy to use and it is in their pH perfect line

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[GMAW]

First off I suggest not using sand in your mix,it just adds to a heavy pot and soil compaction.I have used Dyna Gro nutes with great success and there easy to use and inexpensive.Another good one is General Hydroponics flora series easy to use and also inexpensive that i'm using now and it is working great.

I will check out Dyna Grow and GH Flora. The soil came with a small amount of sand already in the mix. I will be using 40% perlite and 60% soil so I think the large amount of perlite will stop compaction.

 

[GMAW]

Espoma Tomato Tone about one cup per plant. I'm now experimenting with Flower Tone for my autos. After they quit growing you can add a very small amount of Jacks Blossom Booster and it will put some weight on your buds.

The tomato tone is fantastic for photos at the rate of 5 cups per 32qts of soil mix. But it is a little too much nitrogen for my autos and they were growing too tall with long branches while the poor plant is trying to flower. but that's all I would use germ to harvest, one time in the soil before planting. This flowertone is very hot at that rate. But same idea. premix granular fertilizer in the soil before planting. Avoid any store bought soil that has time release or any fertilizer for that matter simply because you will be operating blind and won't know how much to increase or decrease. Eventually though, the goal is to set up an operation to reuse your soil and go back to 100% organic. But that takes a lot of time and usually space and worms. I would not waste one penny on any liquid fertilizer. Other than like I say Jacks. One tub lasts a lifetime. 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. Maybe feed 1/2 gal per plant every 5 days or so, depending on how they take it. But that is after they have stopped getting taller. So just a few times. My side by side makes me thinks it makes a difference but is certainly not necessary if you start with a good mix.

That is alot of info. Maybe its better if I PM you.

 

[GMAW]

I like AN grow, micro, bloom. Pretty dang easy to use and it is in their pH perfect line

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

You use the AN PH perfect sensi line for soil? I heard it was designed for soiless, coco or Hydro. Not peat based mixes? I heard it PH buffers to 5.9 which is way too low for a soil grow. Also I heard if you do 1/4 or 1/2 strength mix, it does not PH buffer properly. Basically I am paying alot of money for nutrients that PH buffer to the wrong PH. Then I have to PH adjust anyhow. Seems like a waste of money for a soil grower.

 

[CaptainDave420]

You use the AN PH perfect sensi line for soil? I heard it was designed for soiless, coco or Hydro. Not peat based mixes? I heard it PH buffers to 5.9 which is way too low for a soil grow. Also I heard if you do 1/4 or 1/2 strength mix, it does not PH buffer properly. Basically I am paying alot of money for nutrients that PH buffer to the wrong PH. Then I have to PH adjust anyhow. Seems like a waste of money for a soil grower.

Honestly just get bio bizz or roots organic way better than advanced nutrients. Ph perfect my ass how can it buffer when you can never use it at full strength and you need ph flux to let the plant get different nutes at diff ph levels.

 

[GMAW]

Honestly just get bio bizz or roots organic way better than advanced nutrients. Ph perfect my ass how can it buffer when you can never use it at full strength and you need ph flux to let the plant get different nutes at diff ph levels.

I have bio bizz fish mix and bloom and I always have problems later in grow and bloom. I want to keep it simple next grow. A big jug of some chemical based fertilizer and ph adjusted to 6.5.

 

[BII]

The whole point of AN pH Perfect is that you don't (and shouldn't) adjust the pH. There is no need to check pH at all (presuming you are using the recommended RO, distilled of other very low sals/EC/ppm water to start, and minimize adding salts/ions, e.g., cal-mag, silica). The nutrients are available/taken-up by the plant over a wide range of feed water pH. In fact, AN recommends you not adjust the pH, it's counter-productive, with this involving adding more salts/ions that can interfere with the pH Perfect buffer chemistry.

But there are some or many AN users who do adjust feed pH to their medium, and they seem to also do rather well. And some or many also add cal-mag, silica, etc. So if pushed, pH Perfect looks to usually be rather resilient/robust in terms of dealing with moderate amounts of added salts/ions].