Lighting Need help with wiring

Smiffy_420 said:
Sound for the help lads, i have decided to buy,

Citizen 1212 3500k 90cri x4
Chinese heatsinks
Ideal citizen cob holders
Hgl 185 c1400b driver
Plus all the other bits i cant find at home or work, wires and frame etc

Regards the driver and wattage. On the specs sheet it says thats a 200w driver, so 4 cobs would be running 50w and 8 would be 25w correct?

Also about the dimming, what does it do? When running 4 cobs at half dim does it dim them down to 25w?
Click to expand...
When and if you choose to use the dimming circuit it cuts the power in steps down to about 10%. For just a few more dollars you can up the COBs to 1812s like Autocobs, the biggest of the 048 frame, 1818s or even the incredible 1825s. The 25s can get expensive and are bigger, but the 1812 & 1818 are only a couple bucks more.

THEY'RE called KAAAAHBS Joe's dad's stuff
 
Dr.Bubbles said:
When and if you choose to use the dimming circuit it cuts the power in steps down to about 10%. For just a few more dollars you can up the COBs to 1812s like Autocobs, the biggest of the 048 frame, 1818s or even the incredible 1825s. The 25s can get expensive and are bigger, but the 1812 & 1818 are only a couple bucks more.

THEY'RE called KAAAAHBS Joe's dad's stuff
Click to expand...

Ive seen the 18xx for sale all of them are out of my budget, so for now ill stick with the 1212.
 
After researching and watching a few growmau5 videos i think im going to change the way i was going to run them. Growmau5 recommended 40w/sqft, i only have 2sqft so i think 4 cobs would be overkill? So what im thinking 3 cobs in my flowering space and 2 for young plants in another space.

I cant get my head around chosing drivers. Using the tool on ledgardener
http://ledgardener.com/cob-led-driver-selection-tool/
It reconmends hgl 120h c1400 for both setups, does that mean 3 cobs will be ran at 50w and 2 at 75w?
 
My new lights have arrived. I went with 6x bridgelux eb 3500k strips.

I have built my frame and have the strips mounted. I need to get some 18gauge wire for wiring the strips together. Looking at my driver it only has live and neutral in, how do i go about grounding it or is it fine without? And should i run a ground from my frame to the wall plug ground?
 
Smiffy_420 said:
My new lights have arrived. I went with 6x bridgelux eb 3500k strips.

I have built my frame and have the strips mounted. I need to get some 18gauge wire for wiring the strips together. Looking at my driver it only has live and neutral in, how do i go about grounding it or is it fine without? And should i run a ground from my frame to the wall plug ground?
Click to expand...

Grounding the frame will do no harm, but as far as the OUTPUT from the driver goes, well, as long as it is under 120vdc then that counts as "Extra Low Voltage" so the possibility of electrocution when you touch the connections to the strips and the frame is zero. You don't have a ground wire into the driver as that will be double insulated so, even in the worst case scenario, there is no way that the mains voltage can go to any external point on the driver or further through the LED circuit, meaning it changes from "ELV" to "SELV" or "Safety Extra Low Voltage".

So grounding the frame is unnecessary, but will do no harm and can give you peace of mind knowing that should something go drastically wrong then there's no chance of mains voltage on the frame. In my experience, and we're talking over three decades of playing with electricity, it's preferable to play it safe and "overprotect" by grounding any extraneous metalwork should there be anything with mains voltage on your build, such as mounting the driver on the frame itself.

The easiest way to do this is obviously use a 3-core cable, live and neutral to the driver and then take the ground to the frame, extending that if necessary with a wire AT LEAST half the size of the power cables.
 
Banjacked said:
Grounding the frame will do no harm, but as far as the OUTPUT from the driver goes, well, as long as it is under 120vdc then that counts as "Extra Low Voltage" so the possibility of electrocution when you touch the connections to the strips and the frame is zero. You don't have a ground wire into the driver as that will be double insulated so, even in the worst case scenario, there is no way that the mains voltage can go to any external point on the driver or further through the LED circuit, meaning it changes from "ELV" to "SELV" or "Safety Extra Low Voltage".

So grounding the frame is unnecessary, but will do no harm and can give you peace of mind knowing that should something go drastically wrong then there's no chance of mains voltage on the frame. In my experience, and we're talking over three decades of playing with electricity, it's preferable to play it safe and "overprotect" by grounding any extraneous metalwork should there be anything with mains voltage on your build, such as mounting the driver on the frame itself.

The easiest way to do this is obviously use a 3-core cable, live and neutral to the driver and then take the ground to the frame, extending that if necessary with a wire AT LEAST half the size of the power cables.
Click to expand...
Cheers man, that gives me all the confidence to get the wiredwand powered up after work.
 
All wired up and working great. Theyre not the brightest, driver upgrade is needed, tech support at digikey recommended the driver and i bought without checking it out.

I currently have d light at 12inches from the plants. Getting a reading of 250-320 lux.

Thanks for the replies lads
 

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Nice bro just did a eb/samsung build are they the 3500k 280mm long? And are u journaling anything with them i am and would love some opinoins on them and see diff in growth nice job on the light
 
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