I need to replace the dimmer switch on my SP 3000. I like to have a wiring diagram before I delve into something. Probably pretty simple but. I like to have my bases covered.

If you have pertinent information on your website, it is definitely well hidden!

Do you think you can furnish me a wiring diagram of the dimmer installation?
Purple line β†’ red line. Pink line β†’ black line.
 

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I need to replace the dimmer switch on my SP 3000. I like to have a wiring diagram before I delve into something. Probably pretty simple but. I like to have my bases covered.

If you have pertinent information on your website, it is definitely well hidden!

Do you think you can furnish me a wiring diagram of the dimmer installation?
If you need an operation video, please contact customer service to get it.
 
Purple line β†’ red line. Pink line β†’ black line.
That was easy!
The Mars hydro SP3000 is now controlled with my AC Infinity 69 smart controller with the resistance based adapter. It works outstanding!
Also in the tent is the deep red supplemental light bars! It is also controlled by the AC Infinity Smart controller through a smart outlet. I do think I probably should have got the smaller 1 for the 2 by 4 tent.:face::haha::haha::haha::rofl:

I installed them all the way at the top of the tent. I think I'm just going to run them that way this first run and then play with them later maybe in the 4x4
.
There's lots of red and it's very bright! When the main light is turned on, it pretty much washes out the red.
I'm going to give the girls a bit of time to get their root system established and then turn them on the same cycle as the main .

I've selected mainly in the Indica dominant girls to go in this tent to see if I can get them to stretch just a bit and maybe for a bit more open colas With just slightly longer node spacing.
It should be an interesting experiment.
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This light setup does produce quite a bit of light! It's the 55 Watt version and I was pretty surprised about how much light actually made it to the very bottom with my light meter. I left it on for a while to see how warm it got and it was very reasonable. I don't really think it's going to be that much of a heat impact, especially with the SP 3000 driver on the outside of the tent.
Yeah it's a bit bulky and awkward, but I think that's good because it can be adapted to a lot of applications. Now the integration with one of their bar units that is designed to take this, it's a done deal and very simple. Hanging otherwise is a little bit awkward. You do have to account for the weight of the connections between the lights, so they don't twist the direction of the light.. Is fairly easily done when installed and the very top of the tent. I don't see it easily moved and maintain correct alignment. But since this is supplemental lighting I'm good with not moving that portion of the light for the entire grow. I'm pretty sure it will definitely have an impact on the grow in actually probably pretty beneficial in the end. When young, it's not going to have a super large effect on the seedling, causing it to overstretch. And as the plant grows it will grow into the light hopefully at the appropriate time when needed. I think this is probably about the most easily duplicated way of running a test.
Once this first run is done, now I can come back with clones and run subsequent tests with and without supplemental deep red.
On this first run with the supplemental light. I will have one girl in there that I have grown before. I will have something to gage it by.

I want to also try something a little different in this tent on this run when flipping to flower. What I want to change is the procedure most people do of just one day flipping from 18/6 to 12/12. What I want to do is to maintain the same DLI from veg into flower. This means as I pull back in daylight time, I increase the ppfd to maintain the same DLI each change in time of running. It's more of a natural transition than one day you're running 18 hours of light and then the next day you're only getting 12 hours of light.
I think my best bet for this first run is to veg for roughly 30 days and then begin this transition. By this time they should be hitting a fairly decent DLI and relatively decent intensity. They should be well established enough to take the increase in intensity without adverse reactions. I just have to sit down and actually calculate the figures and to set the schedule of increasing the lights. At that particular time, their root structure should be well established in the Earth box junior for roughly two weeks of full res fills. The girls should be able to handle the increase in light intensity with no problems. I think 7 to 10 days should be in easy transition. I think it made me best to do a defol just before the changes. Would be a good time to make some clones.

I do think that since I am going to be augmenting with CO2, I think the girls will be able to take the transition much easier. I'm not supplementing for Max results, just a bit supplemental. I think I'm going to shoot for right at 1000.
Here's my new 20lb CO2 bottle I got in. The 20 pound bottles are more readily available in my area I realized that you just couldn't have just one bottle Especially when it's not assured you'll get it immediately or in a few days. I just couldn't take the chance and why do so?
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Here's where I will post my more in depth actions and results in this test.
 

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On a scale of 0-10, how would you rate your first reaction to this grow under Mars Hydro FC8000?πŸ‘‡

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Hi. Send me one of those and i will test it for you in a 4x4 or 5x5 or aven a 6x6.
Ill do the best i can and guarantee the girl i Will grow will hade my fullast attention, and then i and the customers Will see it live and make our own decision.

Im pretty good at growing weed and to see what that light can do sounds very interesting. I wouldn’t ask for it for free but i am pretty good at growing, some would even call me professional.
 
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