Made two batches of oil today. One just conventional decarbed bud in coconut oil ( with Lecithin added to make it bio-available )
thats being heating in a water bath in the crockpot. I'll cook it for 2 hours, let it cool, then cook it another hour. The last batch made this was was very good!
I'm also using Bad Kitty Smiles recipe for some really potent oil, This batch I;m making cold, so as to not decarb. We are going to test this to see if it is a better med for my lady's MS. I made it using 4 tablespoons of oil instead of one We're still light smokers, so I don't want to find us in bed for a couple days....lol!
I'm posting the recipe for those that would like to try it. All credit goes to Bad Kitty for this excellent recipe!
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You will need:
- 2 pyrex/glass pie or casserole dishes (only 1 is required; 2 if you're making both)
- 1 + cup 190 proof grain/drinking alcohol, such as Everclear
- 1 large measuring cup or glass
- A simple double boiler
- Cheesecloth
- A fine Hemp or paper filter, or coffee filter
- 1 Tbsp coconut oil MINIMUM (for the suggested amount of material below)
- Pinch lecithin, to half a teaspoon
- Canning jar
- Spatula scraper
- 1 - 2+ oz's of well-ground material; this can be anything from trim, to your finest flowers...it can even be sifted hash, however with an oz and a half of hash, you will want to use much more coconut oil! The better the material you use, the more you'll collect in the end, and the higher the potency per gram, or unit of weight. Again, I'm just telling you what I used, see the end of the tutorial for help adjusting your own dose.
Again: For suggested **DOSAGE INSTRUCTIONS** and oil-to-herb ratios, see below.
Optional, but -required- for heated evaporation: An oscillating fan.
***SAFETY WARNING***
Without a fan, only utilize a slow-paced evaporation near an open window, until all but the very smallest amount of alcohol has dissipated. Then you may complete it in the oven, if you like.
ONLY use heated and rapid evaporation methods from the start, if you have both good ventilation AND a fan.
This will prevent dense pockets of -volatile and explosive alcohol fumes-, from forming. If you can not meet those requirements, evaporate near an open window at room temp, it should be gone in less than 24 hours. Then you may add oil for edible processing, or you can scrape and smoke or vape the concentrate.
*** If you have a gas-only oven, do NOT attempt any of the heated portions of this recipe! Simply use an electric hot plate, or utilize a longer soak, and evaporate in the open air until nearly all alcohol has vanished. ***
I know it may seem silly to some of us: but if anyone is, for any reason, unsure how their oven operates, do NOT use it to evaporate alcohol.
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- First, decarb your material according to the directions seen in the below links... if you are making it for smoking purposes ONLY, you may SKIP this step.
BadKat's Highly Activated & Bioavailable, Med-Grade CannaOil
If you are making a dual batch, it's better to decarb than not to decarb at this stage. You only lose as tiny bit of potency when smoking, and next to none when vaping if you decarb first, but if you were not to pre-decarb a batch meant for cooking, it's a bit more difficult to do so later on.
Almost every time I make it, I just like to reserve a little bit... maybe 1/3 - 1/4 of the batch.... for smoking. Just as a treat, and a bowl-topper.
- Once you've decarbed, mentally divide it into 4 or more portions (more, if you're using 2oz's or more).
Dividing it into portions allows you to use less alcohol, to soak more material. You will saturate one portion, squeeze and strain, then use that alcohol to saturate several additional portions. Pouring a cup of alcohol into several oz's of herb makes straining and recovery much more difficult.
- Prepare your double boiler with, besides the water between the two pots, enough water to fill the inner pot about half way, as well. Leave on medium heat. Either remove water from the base pot or lower the temp, if it's too agitated or boiling over.
-For later, prepare your large measuring cup or glass, with four layers of folded cheesecloth, and a rubber band.Add one cup of 190 proof grain alcohol into a large canning jar, place the lid on loosely, then sit in the water bath for 3 - 4 minutes to heat up.Remove the jar from the bath.
-Take your first portion of decarbed material, pour it into the jar. Seal the lid well, then shake the herb in the warm alcohol for 10 seconds. Re-lid loosely.
-Add to your double boiler. Let heat for 45 - 60 seconds, longer if you want a lot more chlorophyll, and a bit more potency.
-If you replicate this exposure to heat and alcohol as closely as possible, it is safe to say that your waste material will contain less than 1/15 - 1/20 the potency it once had, before you began.
In other words it's safe to assume that you should be removing WELL over 95% of the potency. (I'll explain a little from my and a close acquaintance's personal experience, at the end of the tutorial...)
If you wish to soak longer, you may. Just know that the return is only slightly higher, while the amount of inert plant matter to enter the wash, increases exponentially, after such a long soak. Trace amounts of potency will invariably be left behind after straining. If you choose, you may save the remains and wash again with fresh alcohol, then save that batch for future use with new material.
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- Once you've soaked and heated your material adequately, strain by pouring the bulk of the liquid through the cheese cloth, at first leaving the soggy plant matter behind.
You will then want to divide even this small portion, into three or so smaller portions, so you can squeeze every last drop possible from the material. If you squeeze too much material all at once, you leave a surprising amount of liquid behind (this is evident after squeezing
as MUCH as possible from a larger portion, then diving it into smaller portions and squeezing each again, only to find even more liquid can be removed). And just remember, if you want it 'pure', don't squeeze!... Just leave that alcohol behind for the following wash, to extract a 'dirtier' concentrate.
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Now, repeat this process accordingly with all the remaining portions, using your increasingly more green, and gold tinted alcohol. When you are on your last batch, pre-heat your oven, to 180 f.
If you have a gas-only oven, skip this step.
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Once you've finished straining your last batch through the cheesecloth, it's time to get out your fine filter.
-Set it up in a metal strainer or colander, over a clean glass. Now, slowly pour your (what would now, be) fresh but unfinished 'Green Dragon' through the filter.
-Depending how well you used your cheesecloth, this may take more or less time. Do not be tempted to squeeze the filter until the very end! It's possible to create a 'bubble' of alcohol and press it out faster, but do so at your own risk.... if you burst your bubble, you have to start all over again.
-You'll notice that your filter collects what looks like good kief... but don't be fooled, and don't wonder "why it didn't work"! They do contain some small amount of potency, by these are actually mostly-emptied and depleted 'trichome husks'...these are the cuticle heads and stalks that once contained most of your potency. Now, it has been for the most part extracted. These husks do NOT instantly dissolve once they are emptied, they remain intact for long period of time long after their contents have been either removed, or degraded. The heads disintegrate more rapidly than the stalks, but in fact, we actually (however, rarely) find fully-intact and structurally unharmed trichome stalks, missing their heads, with some otherwise-fossilized plants.
This 'kief' is still worth setting aside, and saving for a friend in need (after it's been dried)... but if you regularly work with good extracts and edibles, it probably won't do very much for you.
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Depending on the desired strength of your caps, and how much material you used, melt one to four Tbsp coconut oil.
Without knowing you personally as a patient, or your level of tolerance, I will not suggest a specific amount:
However -
**Detailed dosage 'advice' and suggested oil-to-extract ratios are included at the end of this tutorial. **
Again, I can not suggest that you use specific ratios without knowing certain information, except to say that I like my capsules and oil strong and concentrated.
f you're serious about curing cancer, and you have built up a ridiculously high tolerance, you still need to use at least between 7 and 10 Tbsp coconut oil, per lb (pound) of your highest quality herb.
Any less oil, and you run the risk of sacrificing absorption or bioavailability.
Capsules (even a single capsule) made at the above level of potency should be kept far away from all users who historically only smoke or eat less than a few grams, per day. The capsules will each be capable of housing the concentrated potency from up to 3 - 4 grams of quality herb. And again, this is all variable depending on the length of wash, and the potency of the herb you're starting with.
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With one batch of herb you may need more or less per dose, than with the next batch.
And the number of grams/ml of potency extracted, per any unit of weight will also vary, and this alone can increase or decrease your total capsule count when using the same amount of oil.
But all that being said, a Tbsp of oil per oz of good bud, will still be MORE than strong enough for 70% - 80% of the end-users. If you're looking for a very, very strong experience, start there, and remember that you should 'feed your liver' at least once, no sooner, than 2 - 6 hours before taking your dose.
And again, slightly more helpful advice for determining dosage is included at the end of the tutorial.
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- Now take your pie or casserole dishes, and be sure that you remember which dish is which, if you are making two batches. I've used just under 2oz's of primarily reasonably-frosty trim, and a few little buds, all of which has been curing in jars, for over 4 months.
Not the frostiest, which is probably why it's still laying around the house after so long, even while I'm in the middle of a 'dry spell'.
Due to the advanced age, while keeping in mind that it was stored well, my decarb was slightly more brief (18 minutes at 220 f, and ten or so minutes in the hot oven after shutting off the heat.)
In this particular batch I will be using slightly under a Tbsp of oil, for between 2/3rds - 3/4ths of my extract, or just around 1.5 ozs of herb.
That's right; all the potency of over an oz and a half of material, concentrated into justa spoonful of oil!
The remaining 1/3 of the extract is evaporated for smoking purposes (photos at the end).
-The oil and the larger portion of the extract are whisked together, and then placed in the oven at 180 f, along-side the extract meant for smoking.
Depending on the humidity, it will take roughly 25 - 30 minutes with occasional manual agitation to evaporate the smoking extract, and 40 - 50 minutes to evaporate the alcohol from the oil batch.
After evaporation. Before heating further, add your lecithin now:
Smokable:
After you notice layers of 'color' forming in your smokable dish, and it appears sticky but very 'dry', remove and allow it to cool on your countertop, on a heat-safe pot holder or trivet.
(Do NOT place on the stove top, especially if you have recently used, or plan to use a burner... people have shattered their dishes and lost all their material this way!).
Once it's cooled, freeze it... in a half hour or so it should be cool enough to scrape easily from the dish. Scraping immediately from the oven is possible, but can be challenging.
Edible:
Following evaporation, add lecithin, then freeze the oil for four - six hours.
-After spending at least four hours in the coldest section of your freezer (near the ice-cube maker, or on the rack/location intended for ice-cube trays), allow it to thaw until room temp. Placing it in the oven immediately after being frozen can shock and break your glass!
Once thawed (it will be solid), if you have not already you may ***sprinkle with your lecithin and
then SEAL WELL WITH FOIL***, and continue heating your oil at 220 f for an additional 60 - 80 minutes, before cooling it, and then finally either setting it aside for baking, or for inserting into capsules.
-I prefer one more 40 minute interval at 220 f, along with another freeze between the two heatings, this may put some users to sleep, or it may give them the pain relief and strength they are looking for. It will absolutely provide strong sensations, but it may take a few batches for you to figure out exactly the range of effects and potency you're after.
-The level of processing above, -minus the additional 40 minutes-, will allow for a very a strong, upbeat and motivational cerebral effect' with decent pain relief, and maybe a bit of couch-lock at times... but it should still be processed enough to keep you positive and anxiety-free, without putting you to sleep, just so long as you don't take too much!
(Under-processing, or processing any less than described here, can potentially cause some patients -mild anxiety-,
in higher doses.)
If you want a narcotic, sleepy, and irresistibly couch-locked stone, that is good for later in the day, then you should continue heating and freezing in 40 minute (heat) and minimum 4 hour (freeze) intervals, as many as you choose, up to a total of 5 or so hours of heat, depending on the effects you're after.
You will likely be glued to your chair, after processing much more than 2 - 3 additional hours.
Just keep in mind: Towards the end of a very extended, longer process, you may notice a slight -decrease- in perceived potency, and almost no heady, cerebral effects whatsoever.
However, you should also notice that much of your pain will vanish, accompanied by an almost total-inability to keep your eyes open, beginning about forty minutes to an hour after taking your capsule!
Over-processed capsules may be 'weaker' in some ways, but they are amazing for sleep!
And the finished products!
**** Dosing Advice****:
This particular batch, using 1.5oz's of somewhat frosty trim, made just about 19 ridiculously potent capsules.
Four of which were immediately tested, and split between myself and three patients. They were a bit 'too- successful' for some of us......
The additional half oz of frosty-leaf extract made just under a gram of concentrate, to smoke.
Which means, between three and four grams of concentrate went into those 19 capsules!
Which makes sense, because; 1 Tbsp oil = 15 capsules, That, plus three to four grams of concentrate = 19 capsules.
Just remember that 1 Tbsp of oil, all alone and without glandular material, will fill about 15 x 00-size capsules.
Now, mentally add roughly another 3 - 5 capsules (sometimes more, or sometimes less depending on the quality/potency of the material) per oz of high-quality herb used, for the space taken up by the concentrate itself.If you know your usual edible dose is normally only a half a gram, then a single capsule from a batch that made 15 + 5 (20) capsules will be way, WAY too powerful!
*** The point***:
You will want to eat roughly the same, or less than you would smoke over the course of a single session, or a single day if you are a frequent/heavy user.
- If half a gram of herb, is your ideal dose, then you want about 56 doses per oz.
In which case, you're going to want to use roughly 3 and 1/2 Tbsp coconut oil, for 52 total 00-size capsules, combined with the capsule-space the concentrate itself will take up, to make roughly 55 - 56 doses.
- If only a third of a gram is your ideal dose, then you will want to make 84 capsules or doses per oz.
In which case, by using just over 5 Tbsp coconut oil, combined with your oz-worth of concentrate, you should be able to make 82 - 88 capsules (again, it varies, depending on the total glandular content of the oz/material used).
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To fix meds which are too powerful/strong:
I would suggest filling a single capsule half-way, or fully, to take right away, before you fill any more, just to be certain that your entire batch of capsules do not come out much stronger, than you need them to be. If it's too strong, just relax and try to enjoy yourself. Then, when you're able to, just cut the remaining oil with a little more melted coconut oil.
If instead, it's too weak (or you accidentally add too much additional coconut oil), you can choose to either simply take two caps per dose as needed, or you may save your oil until you make a second, stronger batch, and then combine the two.
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Once you've made your second or third batch, it becomes like second nature, and it's very easy to create a perfect batch every single time!
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Briefly: in 2007-08 I was not located near the majority of the medical community, but I had the same curiosity many of us do:
I wonder how much potency am I extracting from my plant matter with 'X/amount-processing'?
After walking an old friend out west, through a few successful batches, I instructed him to go through the same process, using 6 very different batches of herb, containing three different local strains/samples of varying cannabinoid/potency content above 14% thc, but no higher than 19 - 20%.
They were divided into 6 portions, three decarbed, three non-decarbed. Each portion/subject was again divided, into three or four smaller portions, for a series of individual washes.
Keeping in mind that the first portion washed, contains the least remaining potency, and the final batch washed (with already-potentiated alcohol) leaves the most behind due to the increased concentration and potency content within the wash, I had him send a portion of the -blended/combined- remaining 'waste' herb from each individual batch off to a nearby lab for analysis (back then, 6 samples could be tested for the cost of about $2,500, and that was after a bulk discount...nowadays it's closer to around $900 - $1,200 to analyze 6 samples). Those that had been decarbed tested positive for varying amounts totaling less than 0.80%, primarily THC, and a very minute fraction of THCA. Those that had not been decarbed also tested positive for both THCA, and in much smaller quantity, THC, and combined again, less than 0.80%.... all numbers were not 0.80%, some were much lower.
Using the highest number I can remember, and assuming for the most waste possible, I think gives folks the most 'realistic' expectations.
We did this with oil extractions as well to determine how complete the extraction could be, with similar results; the more oil you use, the more diluted it is, and the less potency you leave behind.
And the less oil you use initially, the more concentrated the resulting oil is, and slightly increased traces of potency are left behind due to that increased concentration. That's why it can be good to use a rather large volume of alcohol, with small divided portions, and why it's good a good idea to run more unadulterated oil through a batch of already oil-extracted herb.
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I was hoping that I'd find our old emails so I could share exact figures for all the different chemical components, active
cannabinoids, the byproducts of degraded THC etc., since I paid for and at least co-own them I wanted to include the actual documents with the recipe, it's the main reason I dragged my heels a bit with sharing this tutorial.But I'm discovering now that I probably lost them to an old '30 day rule', for signing in..... probably the most 'expensive' email I've lost to date.
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I realize the above was a bit wordy, just in case it was a bit too overwhelming to comprehend, I'll break it down into quick steps. Combined with the above, you should be able to sort things out:
The Basics:
- Grind and decarb as described in past tutorials;
- Divide into small portions
- Soak each portion individually, in warmed alcohol, for 1+/- minutes (less for more purity, longer for more impotent but healthy plant matter, cold for 'inactive/acid' oils).
- Strain through cheesecloth, repeat with each portion until finished.
- Once last portion has been strained through cheese cloth, strain the potent alcohol once more through your fine filter.
- Add coconut oil to your dish for edible oil, but do not add it if you plan to smoke or vape.
- Add your alcohol, then allow to evaporate as required by your situation; with adequate fans and ventilation you may use the oven at 180 f or lower, and without adequate ventilation, just sit by an open window, away from heat and flames.
- Once evaporated, either cool, then freeze and scrape your concentrate made for smoking, or add your lecithin, freeze for several hours, then reheat for 90 minutes to 3 or more hours, depending on the desired outcome described above.
- Inject into capsules, or make into edibles, and enjoy!
Hope you enjoyed the tutorial, guys, and I hope it helps to clear a few things up!
thats being heating in a water bath in the crockpot. I'll cook it for 2 hours, let it cool, then cook it another hour. The last batch made this was was very good!
I'm also using Bad Kitty Smiles recipe for some really potent oil, This batch I;m making cold, so as to not decarb. We are going to test this to see if it is a better med for my lady's MS. I made it using 4 tablespoons of oil instead of one We're still light smokers, so I don't want to find us in bed for a couple days....lol!
I'm posting the recipe for those that would like to try it. All credit goes to Bad Kitty for this excellent recipe!
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You will need:
- 2 pyrex/glass pie or casserole dishes (only 1 is required; 2 if you're making both)
- 1 + cup 190 proof grain/drinking alcohol, such as Everclear
- 1 large measuring cup or glass
- A simple double boiler
- Cheesecloth
- A fine Hemp or paper filter, or coffee filter
- 1 Tbsp coconut oil MINIMUM (for the suggested amount of material below)
- Pinch lecithin, to half a teaspoon
- Canning jar
- Spatula scraper
- 1 - 2+ oz's of well-ground material; this can be anything from trim, to your finest flowers...it can even be sifted hash, however with an oz and a half of hash, you will want to use much more coconut oil! The better the material you use, the more you'll collect in the end, and the higher the potency per gram, or unit of weight. Again, I'm just telling you what I used, see the end of the tutorial for help adjusting your own dose.
Again: For suggested **DOSAGE INSTRUCTIONS** and oil-to-herb ratios, see below.
Optional, but -required- for heated evaporation: An oscillating fan.
***SAFETY WARNING***
Without a fan, only utilize a slow-paced evaporation near an open window, until all but the very smallest amount of alcohol has dissipated. Then you may complete it in the oven, if you like.
ONLY use heated and rapid evaporation methods from the start, if you have both good ventilation AND a fan.
This will prevent dense pockets of -volatile and explosive alcohol fumes-, from forming. If you can not meet those requirements, evaporate near an open window at room temp, it should be gone in less than 24 hours. Then you may add oil for edible processing, or you can scrape and smoke or vape the concentrate.
*** If you have a gas-only oven, do NOT attempt any of the heated portions of this recipe! Simply use an electric hot plate, or utilize a longer soak, and evaporate in the open air until nearly all alcohol has vanished. ***
I know it may seem silly to some of us: but if anyone is, for any reason, unsure how their oven operates, do NOT use it to evaporate alcohol.
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- First, decarb your material according to the directions seen in the below links... if you are making it for smoking purposes ONLY, you may SKIP this step.
BadKat's Highly Activated & Bioavailable, Med-Grade CannaOil
If you are making a dual batch, it's better to decarb than not to decarb at this stage. You only lose as tiny bit of potency when smoking, and next to none when vaping if you decarb first, but if you were not to pre-decarb a batch meant for cooking, it's a bit more difficult to do so later on.
Almost every time I make it, I just like to reserve a little bit... maybe 1/3 - 1/4 of the batch.... for smoking. Just as a treat, and a bowl-topper.
- Once you've decarbed, mentally divide it into 4 or more portions (more, if you're using 2oz's or more).
Dividing it into portions allows you to use less alcohol, to soak more material. You will saturate one portion, squeeze and strain, then use that alcohol to saturate several additional portions. Pouring a cup of alcohol into several oz's of herb makes straining and recovery much more difficult.
- Prepare your double boiler with, besides the water between the two pots, enough water to fill the inner pot about half way, as well. Leave on medium heat. Either remove water from the base pot or lower the temp, if it's too agitated or boiling over.
-For later, prepare your large measuring cup or glass, with four layers of folded cheesecloth, and a rubber band.Add one cup of 190 proof grain alcohol into a large canning jar, place the lid on loosely, then sit in the water bath for 3 - 4 minutes to heat up.Remove the jar from the bath.
-Take your first portion of decarbed material, pour it into the jar. Seal the lid well, then shake the herb in the warm alcohol for 10 seconds. Re-lid loosely.
-Add to your double boiler. Let heat for 45 - 60 seconds, longer if you want a lot more chlorophyll, and a bit more potency.
-If you replicate this exposure to heat and alcohol as closely as possible, it is safe to say that your waste material will contain less than 1/15 - 1/20 the potency it once had, before you began.
In other words it's safe to assume that you should be removing WELL over 95% of the potency. (I'll explain a little from my and a close acquaintance's personal experience, at the end of the tutorial...)
If you wish to soak longer, you may. Just know that the return is only slightly higher, while the amount of inert plant matter to enter the wash, increases exponentially, after such a long soak. Trace amounts of potency will invariably be left behind after straining. If you choose, you may save the remains and wash again with fresh alcohol, then save that batch for future use with new material.
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- Once you've soaked and heated your material adequately, strain by pouring the bulk of the liquid through the cheese cloth, at first leaving the soggy plant matter behind.
You will then want to divide even this small portion, into three or so smaller portions, so you can squeeze every last drop possible from the material. If you squeeze too much material all at once, you leave a surprising amount of liquid behind (this is evident after squeezing
as MUCH as possible from a larger portion, then diving it into smaller portions and squeezing each again, only to find even more liquid can be removed). And just remember, if you want it 'pure', don't squeeze!... Just leave that alcohol behind for the following wash, to extract a 'dirtier' concentrate.
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Now, repeat this process accordingly with all the remaining portions, using your increasingly more green, and gold tinted alcohol. When you are on your last batch, pre-heat your oven, to 180 f.
If you have a gas-only oven, skip this step.
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Once you've finished straining your last batch through the cheesecloth, it's time to get out your fine filter.
-Set it up in a metal strainer or colander, over a clean glass. Now, slowly pour your (what would now, be) fresh but unfinished 'Green Dragon' through the filter.
-Depending how well you used your cheesecloth, this may take more or less time. Do not be tempted to squeeze the filter until the very end! It's possible to create a 'bubble' of alcohol and press it out faster, but do so at your own risk.... if you burst your bubble, you have to start all over again.
-You'll notice that your filter collects what looks like good kief... but don't be fooled, and don't wonder "why it didn't work"! They do contain some small amount of potency, by these are actually mostly-emptied and depleted 'trichome husks'...these are the cuticle heads and stalks that once contained most of your potency. Now, it has been for the most part extracted. These husks do NOT instantly dissolve once they are emptied, they remain intact for long period of time long after their contents have been either removed, or degraded. The heads disintegrate more rapidly than the stalks, but in fact, we actually (however, rarely) find fully-intact and structurally unharmed trichome stalks, missing their heads, with some otherwise-fossilized plants.
This 'kief' is still worth setting aside, and saving for a friend in need (after it's been dried)... but if you regularly work with good extracts and edibles, it probably won't do very much for you.
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Depending on the desired strength of your caps, and how much material you used, melt one to four Tbsp coconut oil.
Without knowing you personally as a patient, or your level of tolerance, I will not suggest a specific amount:
However -
**Detailed dosage 'advice' and suggested oil-to-extract ratios are included at the end of this tutorial. **
Again, I can not suggest that you use specific ratios without knowing certain information, except to say that I like my capsules and oil strong and concentrated.
f you're serious about curing cancer, and you have built up a ridiculously high tolerance, you still need to use at least between 7 and 10 Tbsp coconut oil, per lb (pound) of your highest quality herb.
Any less oil, and you run the risk of sacrificing absorption or bioavailability.
Capsules (even a single capsule) made at the above level of potency should be kept far away from all users who historically only smoke or eat less than a few grams, per day. The capsules will each be capable of housing the concentrated potency from up to 3 - 4 grams of quality herb. And again, this is all variable depending on the length of wash, and the potency of the herb you're starting with.
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With one batch of herb you may need more or less per dose, than with the next batch.
And the number of grams/ml of potency extracted, per any unit of weight will also vary, and this alone can increase or decrease your total capsule count when using the same amount of oil.
But all that being said, a Tbsp of oil per oz of good bud, will still be MORE than strong enough for 70% - 80% of the end-users. If you're looking for a very, very strong experience, start there, and remember that you should 'feed your liver' at least once, no sooner, than 2 - 6 hours before taking your dose.
And again, slightly more helpful advice for determining dosage is included at the end of the tutorial.
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- Now take your pie or casserole dishes, and be sure that you remember which dish is which, if you are making two batches. I've used just under 2oz's of primarily reasonably-frosty trim, and a few little buds, all of which has been curing in jars, for over 4 months.
Not the frostiest, which is probably why it's still laying around the house after so long, even while I'm in the middle of a 'dry spell'.
Due to the advanced age, while keeping in mind that it was stored well, my decarb was slightly more brief (18 minutes at 220 f, and ten or so minutes in the hot oven after shutting off the heat.)
In this particular batch I will be using slightly under a Tbsp of oil, for between 2/3rds - 3/4ths of my extract, or just around 1.5 ozs of herb.
That's right; all the potency of over an oz and a half of material, concentrated into justa spoonful of oil!
The remaining 1/3 of the extract is evaporated for smoking purposes (photos at the end).
-The oil and the larger portion of the extract are whisked together, and then placed in the oven at 180 f, along-side the extract meant for smoking.
Depending on the humidity, it will take roughly 25 - 30 minutes with occasional manual agitation to evaporate the smoking extract, and 40 - 50 minutes to evaporate the alcohol from the oil batch.
After evaporation. Before heating further, add your lecithin now:
Smokable:
After you notice layers of 'color' forming in your smokable dish, and it appears sticky but very 'dry', remove and allow it to cool on your countertop, on a heat-safe pot holder or trivet.
(Do NOT place on the stove top, especially if you have recently used, or plan to use a burner... people have shattered their dishes and lost all their material this way!).
Once it's cooled, freeze it... in a half hour or so it should be cool enough to scrape easily from the dish. Scraping immediately from the oven is possible, but can be challenging.
Edible:
Following evaporation, add lecithin, then freeze the oil for four - six hours.
-After spending at least four hours in the coldest section of your freezer (near the ice-cube maker, or on the rack/location intended for ice-cube trays), allow it to thaw until room temp. Placing it in the oven immediately after being frozen can shock and break your glass!
Once thawed (it will be solid), if you have not already you may ***sprinkle with your lecithin and
then SEAL WELL WITH FOIL***, and continue heating your oil at 220 f for an additional 60 - 80 minutes, before cooling it, and then finally either setting it aside for baking, or for inserting into capsules.
-I prefer one more 40 minute interval at 220 f, along with another freeze between the two heatings, this may put some users to sleep, or it may give them the pain relief and strength they are looking for. It will absolutely provide strong sensations, but it may take a few batches for you to figure out exactly the range of effects and potency you're after.
-The level of processing above, -minus the additional 40 minutes-, will allow for a very a strong, upbeat and motivational cerebral effect' with decent pain relief, and maybe a bit of couch-lock at times... but it should still be processed enough to keep you positive and anxiety-free, without putting you to sleep, just so long as you don't take too much!
(Under-processing, or processing any less than described here, can potentially cause some patients -mild anxiety-,
in higher doses.)
If you want a narcotic, sleepy, and irresistibly couch-locked stone, that is good for later in the day, then you should continue heating and freezing in 40 minute (heat) and minimum 4 hour (freeze) intervals, as many as you choose, up to a total of 5 or so hours of heat, depending on the effects you're after.
You will likely be glued to your chair, after processing much more than 2 - 3 additional hours.
Just keep in mind: Towards the end of a very extended, longer process, you may notice a slight -decrease- in perceived potency, and almost no heady, cerebral effects whatsoever.
However, you should also notice that much of your pain will vanish, accompanied by an almost total-inability to keep your eyes open, beginning about forty minutes to an hour after taking your capsule!
Over-processed capsules may be 'weaker' in some ways, but they are amazing for sleep!
And the finished products!
**** Dosing Advice****:
This particular batch, using 1.5oz's of somewhat frosty trim, made just about 19 ridiculously potent capsules.
Four of which were immediately tested, and split between myself and three patients. They were a bit 'too- successful' for some of us......
The additional half oz of frosty-leaf extract made just under a gram of concentrate, to smoke.
Which means, between three and four grams of concentrate went into those 19 capsules!
Which makes sense, because; 1 Tbsp oil = 15 capsules, That, plus three to four grams of concentrate = 19 capsules.
Just remember that 1 Tbsp of oil, all alone and without glandular material, will fill about 15 x 00-size capsules.
Now, mentally add roughly another 3 - 5 capsules (sometimes more, or sometimes less depending on the quality/potency of the material) per oz of high-quality herb used, for the space taken up by the concentrate itself.If you know your usual edible dose is normally only a half a gram, then a single capsule from a batch that made 15 + 5 (20) capsules will be way, WAY too powerful!
*** The point***:
You will want to eat roughly the same, or less than you would smoke over the course of a single session, or a single day if you are a frequent/heavy user.
- If half a gram of herb, is your ideal dose, then you want about 56 doses per oz.
In which case, you're going to want to use roughly 3 and 1/2 Tbsp coconut oil, for 52 total 00-size capsules, combined with the capsule-space the concentrate itself will take up, to make roughly 55 - 56 doses.
- If only a third of a gram is your ideal dose, then you will want to make 84 capsules or doses per oz.
In which case, by using just over 5 Tbsp coconut oil, combined with your oz-worth of concentrate, you should be able to make 82 - 88 capsules (again, it varies, depending on the total glandular content of the oz/material used).
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To fix meds which are too powerful/strong:
I would suggest filling a single capsule half-way, or fully, to take right away, before you fill any more, just to be certain that your entire batch of capsules do not come out much stronger, than you need them to be. If it's too strong, just relax and try to enjoy yourself. Then, when you're able to, just cut the remaining oil with a little more melted coconut oil.
If instead, it's too weak (or you accidentally add too much additional coconut oil), you can choose to either simply take two caps per dose as needed, or you may save your oil until you make a second, stronger batch, and then combine the two.
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Once you've made your second or third batch, it becomes like second nature, and it's very easy to create a perfect batch every single time!
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Briefly: in 2007-08 I was not located near the majority of the medical community, but I had the same curiosity many of us do:
I wonder how much potency am I extracting from my plant matter with 'X/amount-processing'?
After walking an old friend out west, through a few successful batches, I instructed him to go through the same process, using 6 very different batches of herb, containing three different local strains/samples of varying cannabinoid/potency content above 14% thc, but no higher than 19 - 20%.
They were divided into 6 portions, three decarbed, three non-decarbed. Each portion/subject was again divided, into three or four smaller portions, for a series of individual washes.
Keeping in mind that the first portion washed, contains the least remaining potency, and the final batch washed (with already-potentiated alcohol) leaves the most behind due to the increased concentration and potency content within the wash, I had him send a portion of the -blended/combined- remaining 'waste' herb from each individual batch off to a nearby lab for analysis (back then, 6 samples could be tested for the cost of about $2,500, and that was after a bulk discount...nowadays it's closer to around $900 - $1,200 to analyze 6 samples). Those that had been decarbed tested positive for varying amounts totaling less than 0.80%, primarily THC, and a very minute fraction of THCA. Those that had not been decarbed also tested positive for both THCA, and in much smaller quantity, THC, and combined again, less than 0.80%.... all numbers were not 0.80%, some were much lower.
Using the highest number I can remember, and assuming for the most waste possible, I think gives folks the most 'realistic' expectations.
We did this with oil extractions as well to determine how complete the extraction could be, with similar results; the more oil you use, the more diluted it is, and the less potency you leave behind.
And the less oil you use initially, the more concentrated the resulting oil is, and slightly increased traces of potency are left behind due to that increased concentration. That's why it can be good to use a rather large volume of alcohol, with small divided portions, and why it's good a good idea to run more unadulterated oil through a batch of already oil-extracted herb.
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I was hoping that I'd find our old emails so I could share exact figures for all the different chemical components, active
cannabinoids, the byproducts of degraded THC etc., since I paid for and at least co-own them I wanted to include the actual documents with the recipe, it's the main reason I dragged my heels a bit with sharing this tutorial.But I'm discovering now that I probably lost them to an old '30 day rule', for signing in..... probably the most 'expensive' email I've lost to date.
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I realize the above was a bit wordy, just in case it was a bit too overwhelming to comprehend, I'll break it down into quick steps. Combined with the above, you should be able to sort things out:
The Basics:
- Grind and decarb as described in past tutorials;
- Divide into small portions
- Soak each portion individually, in warmed alcohol, for 1+/- minutes (less for more purity, longer for more impotent but healthy plant matter, cold for 'inactive/acid' oils).
- Strain through cheesecloth, repeat with each portion until finished.
- Once last portion has been strained through cheese cloth, strain the potent alcohol once more through your fine filter.
- Add coconut oil to your dish for edible oil, but do not add it if you plan to smoke or vape.
- Add your alcohol, then allow to evaporate as required by your situation; with adequate fans and ventilation you may use the oven at 180 f or lower, and without adequate ventilation, just sit by an open window, away from heat and flames.
- Once evaporated, either cool, then freeze and scrape your concentrate made for smoking, or add your lecithin, freeze for several hours, then reheat for 90 minutes to 3 or more hours, depending on the desired outcome described above.
- Inject into capsules, or make into edibles, and enjoy!
Hope you enjoyed the tutorial, guys, and I hope it helps to clear a few things up!
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