Lockout or Deficiency?

Looking and sounding like a sulphur deficiency. I'd start with adding 1/2 tsp per gallon of Epsom Salts to your feed.

Are you using MC 1 part? Anything added other than that?

Hey @twentyeight.threefive , thanks for the reply.

Possible sulphur deficiency, interesting, I'm going to look in that further then, thank you for that.

Correct, MC 1 part. Nothing else added, not even PH up or down solution. The MC 1 part brings it to 6.5, give or take a point swing here and there.

Could the light intensity be causing the sulphur deficiency?

I believe 3.25g of MC 1 part v3 and .5g Epsom Salt per gallon Is the best balance.

Hey @Mañ'O'Green thanks for the reply man.

You know, I've read other people having success balancing MC with simple epsom salt too, very interesting. I have MC v2, and A LOT of it, so I should look into that.

Funny problem I notice when talking MC ratios with people is most use the gram per gallon method like you where as I prefer the PPM method.

Based on RO water, what PPM would you say 3.25g per gallon would be?
 
Hey @twentyeight.threefive , thanks for the reply.

Possible sulphur deficiency, interesting, I'm going to look in that further then, thank you for that.

Correct, MC 1 part. Nothing else added, not even PH up or down solution. The MC 1 part brings it to 6.5, give or take a point swing here and there.

Could the light intensity be causing the sulphur deficiency?



Hey @Mañ'O'Green thanks for the reply man.

You know, I've read other people having success balancing MC with simple epsom salt too, very interesting. I have MC v2, and A LOT of it, so I should look into that.

Funny problem I notice when talking MC ratios with people is most use the gram per gallon method like you where as I prefer the PPM method.

Based on RO water, what PPM would you say 3.25g per gallon would be?
Every batch can be a little bit different. If you have a gram scale. you can just mix 1g into a gallon of your water and read the PPM. Then just multiply 3.25 x the PPM you got.

Based on a batch that St. Tom had these are the numbers in Hanna PPM. Make sure the numbers on the MC package guaranteed analysis match the numbers in the circle.

2021-05-16_23-35-13.png



So the MC alone is about 500 PPM and the epsom is ~65 PPM
 
@Mañ'O'Green that's great, thank you very much for that!

So, doing some more research and thinking and remembering from past grows;

when I first started using ProMix HP, I remember searching for the "proper" PH range for use with ProMix, it's a soilless, according to the folks at ProMix, so technically the PH goal is 5.6 to 6.2. But I couldn't find that information from the folks at ProMix at the time. So I asked the community.

Results were very mixed. Some folks said they treat it like soil, some say they treat it like hydro, which left me even more confused. BUT I remember at that point I said, ok, only one way to know for sure, just pick a PH range and stick with it for about a years worth of grows.

And so I did and went with the soil PH ranges. Keeping in mind, as you know, the PH in the soil changes as time goes on and the plants require slightly different PH ranges to prevent lock-outs as it goes into flower from veg and blah, blah , blah.

So for every grow I've had up to and including my current grow, the plants have looked fairly healthy, with some oddities here and there right until it enters early flowering, then everything falls to shit. It happens like this every.single.grow. Good in veg SHIT in flower.

My theory, I've been using the wrong god damn PH range this whole time, which has caused those slight oddities during veg but the range was good enough to grow well enough during veg but then locks out everything else the plants need as they enter flowering stages.

And of course those lockouts are causing other lockouts.

I believe the suggestions from everyone in this thread are probably accurate. I'm certainly seeing signs and symptoms of deficiency in sulfur, magnesium and potassium, all of which the plants need higher levels of in flowering.

On one hand I feel like a fucking idiot because I'm a stoner and totally forgot that I was running a long term test to see which PH range best suits ProMix, but on the other hand, if after I adjust my PH range to soilless (hydro PH range I guess?) and it solves my problems, I'll know beyond a reasonable doubt, that was the cause, learned something and can then pass that knowledge onto others I see maybe struggling from the same cause.

I'm going to now change the PH range (probably adjust the PH going in to 5.8 as a target), monitor the PH from the run-off while trying to maintain a run-off PH target of 5.8) and see how that affects things after a week or so. If good, then I'll keep going, if nothing changes, I'll start by trying to increase the sulfur first, as I'm seeing more signs of a sulfur deficiency than anything else and then move on to the others, magnesium and potassium.

Lemme know what you think of my theory and plans!

Thanks to you and everyone for all the suggestions and time you took to provide them.
 
U need a pk booster for the redveins (but the stem on fans look sunburned )and some magnesium for the brown rust spots. The ph should definitely investigated too imo.
 
HP Pro Mix is peat based so you should run the nutrient PH 6.2.

There should be enough K in the 3.25g/.5g blend. It is a little high in phosphorous but just over the line.
 
HP Pro Mix is peat based so you should run the nutrient PH 6.2.

There should be enough K in the 3.25g/.5g blend. It is a little high in phosphorous but just over the line.

@BCBUDY Thank you, already. You may have just helped me solve my issue. I'm using a peat based soil and with that piece of info, I'll be dropping my pH numbers for my next couple of waters to see if it solves my on going issues.
 
I grow in Pro-Mix HP as well and ran into trouble at the 6.5 pH range. Right now I target ~6.2, but that means I’m happy if I land anywhere in the 5.8-6.3 range and will only bother adjusting if I fall outside that range.
 
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