Live Stoner Chat Live Stoner Chat - Jan-Mar '25

Very cool project!

I lack space so I'd be interested in a bin version + Groves to stagger harvests or get the tent running right away after harvest.
The principles would work at any scale, you just need internal air circulation, a means for replacing air when needed to lower RH, and a small internal source of humidity at least for later in the cycle. Any containment will work, but choose one that allows reasonably tight sealing other than the means for adjusting RH. Temperature control is somewhat optional, there would be nothing wrong with doing the job at any comfortable room temperature, as long as the target RH was ~57%. The main thing you need is the controller, which is about $100. A smaller containment will mean trial and error to find an air extraction rate that works well without causing excessive overshoot, but that is just a matter of playing with it before adding weed. If you go this route, understand that the need for air exchange will be far higher when newly loaded with weed than it will during testing while empty. Slight overkill on the ability to exchange air is likely the best plan, air exchange rate can be adjusted down more easily than up - in my case a couple pieces of masking tape over the inlet hole is all that was needed. I don't know how well the air exchange valves need to work, but I would stick with the pingong ball setup I am using rather than trying to accomplish the same thing using flaps.

Making the trays will likely be the biggest challenge, but if going small and cheap, pieces of appliance box cardboard might do the job. I was tempted to try that, but went with my wooden frame option instead.

This simplified setup will only work if the RH in the room is already low enough to allow the dryer to achieve the RH needed by simply exchanging air with the "lung room". Depending on local conditions, this may mean a dehumidifier in the lung room.

Anyway, good luck with it, if you go for it, feel free to ask for help figuring things out. :pighug:
 
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The principles would work at any scale, you just need internal air circulation, and a means for replacing air when needed to lower RH. Any containment will work, but choose one that allows reasonably tight sealing other than the means for adjusting RH. Temperature control is somewhat optional, there would be nothing wrong with doing the job at any comfortable room temperature, as long as the target RH was ~53-55%. The main thing you need is the controller, which is about $100. A smaller containment will mean trial and error to find an air extraction rate that works well without causing excessive overshoot, but that is just a matter of playing with it before adding weed. If you go this route, understand that the need for air exchange will be far higher when newly loaded with weed than it will during testing while empty. Slight overkill on the ability to exchange air is likely the best plan, air exchange rate can be adjusted down more easily than up - in my case a couple pieces of masking tape over the inlet hole is all that was needed. I don't know how well the air exchange valves need to work, but I would stick with the pingong ball setup I am using rather than trying to accomplish the same thing using flaps.

Making the trays will likely be the biggest challenge, but if going small and cheap, pieces of appliance box cardboard might do the job. I was tempted to try that, but went with my wooden frame option instead.

This simplified setup will only work if the RH in the room is already low enough to allow the dryer to achieve the RH needed by simply exchanging air with the "lung room". Depending on local conditions, this may mean a dehumidifier in the lung room.

Anyway, good luck with it, if you go for it, feel free to ask for help figuring things out. :pighug:
Home centers sell sheets of perforated aluminum for radiator grills, you can cut it easily.
 
The principles would work at any scale, you just need internal air circulation, a means for replacing air when needed to lower RH, and a small internal source of humidity at least for later in the cycle. Any containment will work, but choose one that allows reasonably tight sealing other than the means for adjusting RH. Temperature control is somewhat optional, there would be nothing wrong with doing the job at any comfortable room temperature, as long as the target RH was ~53-55%. The main thing you need is the controller, which is about $100. A smaller containment will mean trial and error to find an air extraction rate that works well without causing excessive overshoot, but that is just a matter of playing with it before adding weed. If you go this route, understand that the need for air exchange will be far higher when newly loaded with weed than it will during testing while empty. Slight overkill on the ability to exchange air is likely the best plan, air exchange rate can be adjusted down more easily than up - in my case a couple pieces of masking tape over the inlet hole is all that was needed. I don't know how well the air exchange valves need to work, but I would stick with the pingong ball setup I am using rather than trying to accomplish the same thing using flaps.

Making the trays will likely be the biggest challenge, but if going small and cheap, pieces of appliance box cardboard might do the job. I was tempted to try that, but went with my wooden frame option instead.

This simplified setup will only work if the RH in the room is already low enough to allow the dryer to achieve the RH needed by simply exchanging air with the "lung room". Depending on local conditions, this may mean a dehumidifier in the lung room.

Anyway, good luck with it, if you go for it, feel free to ask for help figuring things out. :pighug:
Pretty sure the cannatrol uses pressure inside it to dry the buds and not just a stable rh….hence the need for the drip trays inside it to catch the water forced out of the buds! If it was simply an enclosed drying box those would be totally unnecessary and Frank definitely said he had to empty them multiple times a day during first couple days of dry!
 
Pretty sure the cannatrol uses pressure inside it to dry the buds and not just a stable rh….hence the need for the drip trays inside it to catch the water forced out of the buds! If it was simply an enclosed drying box those would be totally unnecessary and Frank definitely said he had to empty them multiple times a day during first couple days of dry!
There is no air pressure difference between inside and outside.

There is no dripping. There is a built in dehumidifier, and the water collected is condensate from that.
 
There is no air pressure difference between inside and outside.

There is no dripping. There is a built in dehumidifier, and the water collected is condensate from that.
If it has a built in dehumidifier it kinda proves my point that its not just a box with a humidity controller and an extraction fan! I don’t have one but assume for almost $2k they gotta have some kinda technology in it they don’t think u can replicate at home! I’m definitely down with the diy tho if a homemade option that works the same comes out! I’m way too cheap to ever spend that kinda money on one! :shrug::crying:
 
It has an internal recirculating fan, not exhaust.
Be interesting to see how @Olderfart setup works! Looks like a much improved version of what i do in my lil 2x4 since appears to be sealed up! I just have a small clothes drying rack in mine tho! I do use inkbird controllers and a humidifier and dehumidifier/small extraction fan in it to hold the rh where i want it during dry process but don’t think its any kinda replacement for the cannatrol! I wish it was cuz i am a poor mofo but also i am down with the diy if a nice homemade replacement can be achieved! I apparently don’t have the wood shop be has so if his works i would have to find me some kinda secondhand option i could repurpose!
 
If i tried to replicate that box he built mine would probably be doing this…. :shrug::haha::rofl:
1737920769987.gif
 
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