Lighting Light Cycle

[Stone420]

What you say, spot on. If you can maintain close to similar conditions and keep up lab quality measurements and records and do this with a decent sample population and repeat it 4-5 times, yeah, for that strain a pattern will probably emerge, say a couple of years!

LOL, I know my methodology to be a long shot, but at least something to strive for. In the world of not so exacting home growers, I suppose any effort to get consistent results is better than no effort at all. Of course every detail you mentioned will influence the grow, not to mention genetics that will be impossible to replicate long term on my small scale level of seed buying. But I am trying and getting by with decent grows, and mainly, really love growing which is what its all about to me anyway. Every time I harvest a plant, I get a rush of satisfaction that says - "I did this".

I think the technical side of home growing is likely to explode with new technology such as the controllers you referenced. I am a long time beer home brewer, and the technology in some systems has advanced to the point that you fill a basket with grains, push a start button and go fishing. Well, not quite that simple but I definitely see your parallel.

 

[Death The Cultivator]

What you say, couldn't agree more.

The trouble with DLI for auto's is, what is optimal?

There is 2 problems, what is optimal in MOL and what spectrum provides that optimal number?
Some light manufactures imply they have some knowledge, like Osram/Fluence, Lumi, etc., but of course it is proprietary for commercial reasons haha, there is no real scientific knowledge available anywhere as far as I know, just a lot of this or that many Mol seems to work very well and such.

I have an Apogee MQ-500 and imo this is the lowest entry point to PAR measurements. I also have 3 lightscouts to measure an approximate DLI.
But what you really want is probably an Asentek lightning passport for ease of use lol https://www.lightingpassport.com/# or some similar spectrometer

The Apogee will give an idea, but unless one has a test stand, it's pretty useless for specifics, moving the sensor just a fraction or changing the angle will make a big difference in measured value, AND where exactly to measure.

Perhaps the breeders should include recommended DLI numbers with specific spectral curves for start-mid-end vegging and flowering hahaha, especially for strains where the beans cost more than a fiver a pop lol, heck, throw in the flushing period too for those who cling on to myths

My Apogee and lightscouts are hardly ever used, the novelty wore off quickly and the futility took over. This is not a backyard one man two handed job, something more elaborate is required.

And yes, mobile phone sensors aren't gonna cut it

Just be aware before you decide to splash any cash, it ain't cheap gear and it ain't as simple as measuring the temperature!

This is the other problem with autos, you can't clone then so your stuck with various pheno types every time. I've always wondered why 12/12 just isn't standard once flowering begins, even if we manipulate the Emerson effect, you are only getting like a max of 14/10. If we're using current LED tech, my plants are getting blasted with 87k lux for 11 hours, I don't see why starting at 14/10 and testing lower hours wouldn't work.

It's possible we abuse the ruderalis and take for granted that we can run any light schedule.

 

[Tony21]

Good points, and first time I've seen anyone using the term "abuse the ruderalis", well said

I've just finished running running an auto amnesia against a photo amnesia 12/12 from flip to finish, side by side with a 75 w HS1 light each after 5 weeks of veggin under 20/4. The photo did much better. I only did this because I had an opportunity, I'm in the process of changing my big tent to a 12/12 or so flower tent, and the smaller ones to 20/4 veg, mothers and auto's. Not easy to juggle lol, but anyways, my conclusion was the auto would have done better with a much higher DLI, the photo did OK and actually had to be mauled and got burned a bit. The yield was 65 g and 110 g auto/photo of so so a bit fluffy buds but very acceptable quality, both harvested the same day. Here's a pic just before harvest, looks a bit beat up haha, photo to the right

 

[Death The Cultivator]

https://smartgrow.systems/sgs-original-research-on-the-importance-of-daily-light-integral-dli/

I found that site. Based on an estimation of my strip build, with 11/13 schedule it seems the 30 watts per square foot works as a baseline for sitting at the optimal threshold for growth without c02. Though without a par meter this would have to be determined based on the type of cobs, reflectors, amount of diodes, etc. Still needs the meter but different configurations and spectrum would be influencing factors.

Finding a baseline for where it is overkill without c02 but where peak efficiencies can be determined while keeping the heat low would be great. If I had the room I would try an auto on 12/12. I think the 18-24 hours for autos started with HPS growers with farr less efficient lights found sweet spots to accommodate these lights and it worked. But a hlg 550 or a 12-16 citizen 1812 cob array are totally different beast. We also have to consider how some strains react to light distance like sativas that grow tall and lanky because of their disposition to their natural environments

CobsCocoDTWMxPScrog Watch Me Mess Up

 

[automan2]

I have been running 12/12 on autos since I started growing...over 13 yrs. Only growing for myself, I am happy with lighter yields as long as I get quality.
Recently, I converted from hps to a mix of led and cobs and have really noticed a huge difference in in every phase of growing, especially end product. Having 3 different led and cob lights, I've been able to adjust the lights to maximize lumens per plant using a relatively inexpensive light meter.
Makes a big difference and has kinda offset any losses due to 12/12.