Late veg nutrient issues

[StevOrganic]

Hey guys so I'm not a new grower but I am unsure whether my plants are showing signs of too much nutes or too little and what to flip to flower.

I am growing super lemon haze photo and my plants are in 15l air pots in biobizz all mix soil.

I started in 1l pot using light mix soil then transplanted to 3l pot after 19 days and switched to all mix soil then onto final 15l pot 14 days later at day 35 with all mix soil.

I am now at around day 56 and have been wanting to flip to flower the last week but plants are looking a little funny and want them to be nice and healthy before flip.

Just hoping some experienced guys here could throw their eye over pics and give me some opinions as to what it looks like is going on?

My environment is pretty close to perfect range at all times with daytime temps around 80f and night time not dropping below 67f. Humidity with lights on at 55% and at night around 60%. I have made sure that it is not related to light stress either im running migro aray leds and they are definitely not too close so I'm pretty sure environment isn't screwing things up.

Since final transplant I have been feeding at a rate of 1ml Grow per litre with 2ml bioheaven per l and last 4-5 feeds I started adding calmag as my water is very soft and symptoms don't seem to be going away.

Also I'm fairly sure my watering practice is ok too im giving 2.5l every 2 days and waiting until the pot is feeling light.

 

[Suki]

Do the leaves feel really weird too? I had something that looked a lot like that a little while back.

I gave them fresh soil, backed off the nutes, and started adding Epsom salt to my feeds. This is what she looks like now. She's still pretty dark, but much more healthy looking overall. And her leaves feel normal again. I've not given any additional veg nutes since putting them in fresh soil.

 

[StevOrganic]

Do the leaves feel really weird too? I had something that looked a lot like that a little while back.
View attachment 1386397

I gave them fresh soil, backed off the nutes, and started adding Epsom salt to my feeds. This is what she looks like now. She's still pretty dark, but much more healthy looking overall. And her leaves feel normal again. I've not given any additional veg nutes since putting them in fresh soil.
View attachment 1386398

Yes the leaves are feeling puffy and ridged at the top of the plant. What was your nutrient regiment like up to the point it started looking funny? I don't have the option of fresh soil the 15l air pots they are in are packed out with roots.

 

[Suki]

I was following the schedule, so it was way too high. And I was using soil from my last grow, so I think that threw things out of balance. Noob stuff really. I only just recently got a good PH pen and realized just how crazy acidic the line of bottled nutes is.

I don't see anything that looks like a calcium deficiency from those pics though. You may want to try giving a very small amount of Epsom salt in your next feed and see if that helps. I definitely wouldn't give calmag unless you're seeing signs of a Ca deficiency personally since an excess of Ca can lock out other things (including magnesium iirc). I'm not seeing any guaranteed analysis on their site for their all mix or nutes, but I'd be willing to bet there's a source of calcium in the soil. I'm no where near an expert though, just thought it looked strangely similar to what I just went through.

She did eventually end up growing out of it after I started giving a balanced amount of magnesium in each feed, but it wasn't the prettiest thing. I still haven't given her any N besides what's in bloom formula, as she hasn't once looked N hungry imo.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I flip photos indoors at 16" tall or 2 weeks whichever happens first.

Looks like a potassium problem to me. Since you are only feeding part of the nutrient system it is most likely a deficiency - the needed K is probably in the Bio-bloom you are not using. Read about feeding balanced nutrients and why it is important to use all of the parts of a multi-part nutrient system

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

Use this schedule at full strength for photos.


What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

 

[MotaZona]

If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder.

I’ve never used a surfactant since I don’t grow anything else in this light of soil. I just got some yucca & was wondering if you use it as insurance against dry areas with every watering or what?
I grow organically in peat.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I’ve never used a surfactant since I don’t grow anything else in this light of soil. I just got some yucca & was wondering if you use it as insurance against dry areas with every watering or what?
I grow organically in peat.

Once a month should be good in soil. I use it to keep my drip emitters clean.

 

[MotaZona]

Once a month should be good in soil. I use it to keep my drip emitters clean.

Right on. This 8 oz bag should outlive me than.
-Thank you.

 

[StevOrganic]

I flip photos indoors at 16" tall or 2 weeks whichever happens first.

Looks like a potassium problem to me. Since you are only feeding part of the nutrient system it is most likely a deficiency - the needed K is probably in the Bio-bloom you are not using. Read about feeding balanced nutrients and why it is important to use all of the parts of a multi-part nutrient system

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

View attachment 1386582

View attachment 1386583

Use this schedule at full strength for photos.


What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

Great stuff man thanks it has just all clicked with me now looked at the plants this morning and is definitely showing what looks like signs of more advanced potassium deficiency I just never used any bloom until the flip before but it makes sense that if veg is extended past a couple weeks and the plant gets quite big it will need the full aray of nutrients. I just thought as there is a small amount of pk in the veg nutes that's ok until flip.

So just to clear it up if vegging past a few weeks start adding bloom as per schedule? I have never done this up until now with photos don't know how I got away with it up until now

Do you think my addition of calmag at the doses I've been adding could have knocked things out of whack? At this stage you think would be best add the bloom 1:1 with the grow nutes or add 2ml bloom and 1ml grow to make up for the lack of pk?

My grow schedule (g=grow, h=bioheaven and cm=calmag)

Your a lifesavers man because ive been looking forward to growing SLH since I started growing would be a pity if it ended up looking horrible in flower. I was thinking of airing on the side of caution and leaving another week before flip to flower and take advantage of the extra time and defoliate a little today before feed.

 

[StevOrganic]

@Mañ'O'Green upped the bloom and all looking good now thanks man Time and time again I underfeed early on and I have to say the plants that I underfeed a little at the start for some reason end up yielding the most.

Let it be a lesson to all overfeeding you can't come back from as easy as starving your plant I seem to starve quite often