Is this simply overwatering?

Im not familiar with that nutrient line so to be safe, I would use half the recommended amounts. In soil, the most common watering schedule is Feed (using nutrients), plain water, plain water, then feed. So if you are watering every day, 3 of days will be with nutrients. Im not sure ehat size pot you are using, or how fast your pot is drying out or if you have a fan that's increasing how fast it dries out, but all those things factor in.
OK, thank you. It's a 5 gallon (17.7litres. I think) fabric pot. I have 2 fans in the tent yes
 
@Breepsbreeps:welcome:Welcome to AFN:welcome:

The Royal Queen Easy Boost Organic Nutrition is a time release Fertilizer that once mixed into your soil at the proper dosage is ALL of the nutrients you need for 12 weeks. It is intended for organic soils. The Canna Terra Soil is not an organic blend! So there are some issues about how the Easy Boost will perform? Then you add Easy Grow Booster Tablets? That pot is so hot I am surprised it does not ignite.

Time release fertilizers have not performed well for me even in outdoor gardening. There is no telling what is in the pot?

I think you would have been much better off using the Canna line of products designed specifically for the soil product.

I do not know how to fix what you have in the pot. Whatever you do stop adding fertilizer.

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

:goodluck:
 
@Breepsbreeps:welcome:Welcome to AFN:welcome:

The Royal Queen Easy Boost Organic Nutrition is a time release Fertilizer that once mixed into your soil at the proper dosage is ALL of the nutrients you need for 12 weeks. It is intended for organic soils. The Canna Terra Soil is not an organic blend! So there are some issues about how the Easy Boost will perform? Then you add Easy Grow Booster Tablets? That pot is so hot I am surprised it does not ignite.

Time release fertilizers have not performed well for me even in outdoor gardening. There is no telling what is in the pot?

I think you would have been much better off using the Canna line of products designed specifically for the soil product.

I do not know how to fix what you have in the pot. Whatever you do stop adding fertilizer.

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

:goodluck:
Thank you very much for the insight and help. Rqs have shafted me haha. I asked on their website if I could use with canna Pro and they said yes! And pointed me to the page about growing autoflowers, says to use the easy start and supplement with the tablets. How annoying!!!
The next bag of soil I have waiting is plant magic. Which line of nutes do you recommend?
 
Thank you very much for the insight and help. Rqs have shafted me haha. I asked on their website if I could use with canna Pro and they said yes! And pointed me to the page about growing autoflowers, says to use the easy start and supplement with the tablets. How annoying!!!
The next bag of soil I have waiting is plant magic. Which line of nutes do you recommend?
Can you direct me to their the page about autos? I would not say they screwed you this is just the kind of things new growers run into.

I do not understand why they would say to supplement with tablets when the instructions for Easy Boost says it is good for up to 12 weeks? I suppose if you were growing photos it could go past that?

Which Plant Magic do you have? Are you in the UK?
 
Can you direct me to their the page about autos? I would not say they screwed you this is just the kind of things new growers run into.

I do not understand why they would say to supplement with tablets when the instructions for Easy Boost says it is good for up to 12 weeks? I suppose if you were growing photos it could go past that?

Which Plant Magic do you have? Are you in the UK?

I'm am yes, here's the one I have - Amazon product ASIN B008BHZJ32
I really appreciate your response. Its easy to become confused with all the information. I know I need to learn to have more of a 'feel' for the plants and what they need over time.
 

I'm am yes, here's the one I have - Amazon product ASIN B008BHZJ32
I really appreciate your response. Its easy to become confused with all the information. I know I need to learn to have more of a 'feel' for the plants and what they need over time.
The tutorial from RQS is good with my exceptions on their recomended growing temperatures I believe they are too low. Germinate at 80°F, then 68°F night and 78°F day. has worked best for me. Yet in their defense it may still work just fine especially in a cold climate area where heating is expensive?

I find it difficult for most new growers and even myself to accurately time what and when to feed soils that are precharged but wear out. It is especially hard on autoflowers if you mistime it because they mature so fast. I am not saying that it cannot be done. We have growers here that do it very well indeed. @autobeast has an excellent formula and you can read it here:

https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...a-perfect-healthy-auto-start-to-finish.67300/

Full on living organic soil is the easiest of all soils to grow in - all you add is water. It must be a large enough container =>5 gallons for one plant. I would use 7 gallons. You either need to make your own (best in my opinion) or you buy it at a premium. You people take gardening very seriously there so you should be able to source some good organic living soil. If you can fit a 15 gallon container you can do no till and the guy to talk to about that is @Proph

Plant Magic - I am not familiar with this product. I looked it up and Fytocell Foam is new to me.

Fytocell is an organic synthetic hydrophilic foam, which is biodegradable with an open cell structure. It provides optimum capillarity, homogenously throughout the whole substrate, providing an water/air ratio of 60/40, irrespective of height.

When I read that I think nutrient sponge and hydropinics but the base is peat so almost hydro! The secret sauce is most likely Kelp and humic acid. It is not precharged with elements so you can go organic or salts but no matter which way you go get the whole line You could even use the RQS line you already have. (time release :fire:) It is obvious to me though I think you should use the Plant Magic Old Timer if you run their soil to go organic *. They could not survive in the UK if it did not work.

* not true organic in my definition.
 
The tutorial from RQS is good with my exceptions on their recomended growing temperatures I believe they are too low. Germinate at 80°F, then 68°F night and 78°F day. has worked best for me. Yet in their defense it may still work just fine especially in a cold climate area where heating is expensive?

I find it difficult for most new growers and even myself to accurately time what and when to feed soils that are precharged but wear out. It is especially hard on autoflowers if you mistime it because they mature so fast. I am not saying that it cannot be done. We have growers here that do it very well indeed. @autobeast has an excellent formula and you can read it here:

https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...a-perfect-healthy-auto-start-to-finish.67300/

Full on living organic soil is the easiest of all soils to grow in - all you add is water. It must be a large enough container =>5 gallons for one plant. I would use 7 gallons. You either need to make your own (best in my opinion) or you buy it at a premium. You people take gardening very seriously there so you should be able to source some good organic living soil. If you can fit a 15 gallon container you can do no till and the guy to talk to about that is @Proph

Plant Magic - I am not familiar with this product. I looked it up and Fytocell Foam is new to me.

Fytocell is an organic synthetic hydrophilic foam, which is biodegradable with an open cell structure. It provides optimum capillarity, homogenously throughout the whole substrate, providing an water/air ratio of 60/40, irrespective of height.

When I read that I think nutrient sponge and hydropinics but the base is peat so almost hydro! The secret sauce is most likely Kelp and humic acid. It is not precharged with elements so you can go organic or salts but no matter which way you go get the whole line You could even use the RQS line you already have. (time release :fire:) It is obvious to me though I think you should use the Plant Magic Old Timer if you run their soil to go organic *. They could not survive in the UK if it did not work.

* not true organic in my definition.
Thank you so much! Guys like you giving people like me advice and knowledge is a beautiful thing.
I hadn't seen the old timer range. I guess it depends if I stick with that soil for a few grows or not. It's hard to settle on something! The living soil sounds very interesting also, I will have a good search. As you say, over here it's likely there are quite a few options.
Once again, thankyou.
 
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