Is this a calcium deficiency?

[RivetGrrl]

Even in soil I'm worried about that pH, it's a bit high and would be better lowered. I understand the "buy this" as it's taken me years to get just some of what I need. But I would look at a pH meter as a first purchase, you won't regret it. In the meantime if you have strips even to test the run off and a way to get the pH to about 6.0-7.0.

I do see that the new growth looks better, I would agree on a P deficiency but also some Ca deficiency from the spots on the leaves. I just worry there could be a lockout with pH.

Do you know if your town uses chlorine or chloramines? Chlorimines won't evaporate, so I just crush up a chewable vitamin C tab (ascorbic acid) and aerate my water. It binds to the chloromine ion and both take each other out of the equation. This can lower your pH tho, but that might be a bonus right now!

 

[Harry_Kovert]

Calcium
80 mg/l Ca

Magnesium
9.0 mg/l Mg

Fluoride
0.09 mg/l

Total Hardness
235 mg/l CaCO3

158
Alkalinity
mg/l CaCO3

193
Alkalinity
mg/l HCO3

31
Chloride
mg/l Cl

17
Nitrate
mg/l NO3

1.80
Phosphate
mg/l P

66
Sulphate
mg/l SO4

36
Sodium
mg/l Na

This is the info provided by my water provider if it helps shed light on the issue?!

 

[RivetGrrl]

I'm not sure how to interpret all the numbers, there are some on her much smarter than me in that regard :smoking:
I see chloride, but as far as a search gives, looks fine.
Keep an eye on the new growth as you have added more CalMag and P&K boosters to your grow. If the new growth is healthy then you are good. I would still pick up a pH probe when you can, I'm looking at one now on Amazon it's about $50 so maybe next week for me too.
If things don't look any better in a week more troubleshooting would be needed.

 

[Harry_Kovert]

I'm not sure how to interpret all the numbers, there are some on her much smarter than me in that regard :smoking:
I see chloride, but as far as a search gives, looks fine.
Keep an eye on the new growth as you have added more CalMag and P&K boosters to your grow. If the new growth is healthy then you are good. I would still pick up a pH probe when you can, I'm looking at one now on Amazon it's about $50 so maybe next week for me too.
If things don't look any better in a week more troubleshooting would be needed.

Thank you for taking the time to respond RG.

Just got home and obviously the affected leaves look worse. I'll have to check on new growth directly.

I'm baffled - One plant is showing major deficiency and the other is only showing very slight spots. Feed the same.....maybe that's my issue as they're differnt beans.

Stressed I am!

 

[RivetGrrl]

Thank you for taking the time to respond RG.

Just got home and obviously the affected leaves look worse. I'll have to check on new growth directly.

I'm baffled - One plant is showing major deficiency and the other is only showing very slight spots. Feed the same.....maybe that's my issue as they're differnt beans.

Stressed I am!

Depending on the breeder, and strain, they can vary for each plant. I have noticed this more in autos, as phenotypes seem to vary more depending on the breeder and how stable the strain is. If the affected leaves are goners you can remove them, may make it easier to monitor what is left.

@Mañ'O'Green and/or @Waira you guys are the experts, anything I am missing? (I always worry that I do).

 

[Harry_Kovert]

Depending on the breeder, and strain, they can vary for each plant. I have noticed this more in autos, as phenotypes seem to vary more depending on the breeder and how stable the strain is. If the affected leaves are goners you can remove them, may make it easier to monitor what is left.

@Mañ'O'Green and/or @Waira you guys are the experts, anything I am missing? (I always worry that I do).

Both beans by same breeder though different strains.

I'll follow your advice and remove the damaged leaves. As much as it'll make the issue easier to monitor the added benefit will be me not getting despondent constantly looking at the damage!

Thanks again RG - you're an angel!

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I think I am seeing several issues here which puts three things at the top of the check list PH is number one but if you cannot test that we are without the knowledge we need to diagnose the problem. Next is RH/temp. If your temps are high and RH is <40% or >60% the stomata of the plant are closing and the uptake of nutrients is stopped. The fact that they are drinking puts this lower on the checklist. And Third is what I lean toward is that you have taken the balance between the available nutrients to the point of locking some of them out. Many growers do not understand you can add too much of a good thing. It is a very complex relationship. This is a minimal graphic relationship diagram:

It is the reason I recommend growers to use a SINGLE nutrient line and use the ENTIRE line. Cannabis nutrient vendors spend a lot of money with PHds to develop products that work together to maintain that balance. When you start picking and choosing from various vendors you are playing compatibility roulette.

A second concept along the same idea is Liebig's Law of the Minimums. This states that a shortage of any one nutrient becomes the limiting factor for all nutrients present.

Get an Accurate 8 or Blue Lab soil PH probe. Save your money until you can afford one of these as so many others are worthless for accurate readings. In the mean time you can use inexpensive litmus paper to test the nutrient solution and water you are feeding. PH to 6.8 for soil.

I did not see ammonia listed in your water report so you should not have a chloromine problem but the chloride and total hardness are a bit high; so aerate your water overnight before using it.

You might want to try a foliar feed of Earth Juice MicroBlast It could help get a balance back in the plant.

 

[Harry_Kovert]

I think I am seeing several issues here which puts three things at the top of the check list PH is number one but if you cannot test that we are without the knowledge we need to diagnose the problem. Next is RH/temp. If your temps are high and RH is <40% or >60% the stomata of the plant are closing and the uptake of nutrients is stopped. The fact that they are drinking puts this lower on the checklist. And Third is what I lean toward is that you have taken the balance between the available nutrients to the point of locking some of them out. Many growers do not understand you can add too much of a good thing. It is a very complex relationship. This is a minimal graphic relationship diagram:

It is the reason I recommend growers to use a SINGLE nutrient line and use the ENTIRE line. Cannabis nutrient vendors spend a lot of money with PHds to develop products that work together to maintain that balance. When you start picking and choosing from various vendors you are playing compatibility roulette.

A second concept along the same idea is Liebig's Law of the Minimums. This states that a shortage of any one nutrient becomes the limiting factor for all nutrients present.

Get an Accurate 8 or Blue Lab soil PH probe. Save your money until you can afford one of these as so many others are worthless for accurate readings. In the mean time you can use inexpensive litmus paper to test the nutrient solution and water you are feeding. PH to 6.8 for soil.

I did not see ammonia listed in your water report so you should not have a chloromine problem but the chloride and total hardness are a bit high; so aerate your water overnight before using it.

You might want to try a foliar feed of Earth Juice MicroBlast It could help get a balance back in the plant.

Thank you for such an in-depth response MOG.

RH and Temp - Rh fluctuates between 50 - 60% and temp 25 - 28c. [I'm growing in my loft conversation so outside temp has an effect.] They are drinking.....and lots. 2 1/2 litres twice a day although I sometimes leave watering for 24 hours.

The advice regarding single nutrient line makes a lot of sense although where do you stop??? I have Biobizz All Mix / Light Mix soil, Biobizz Grow, Bloom, Fish Mix and Heaven. The only non Biobizz products I have used are the Plant Magic Magne Cal and Plant Magic Platinum [I've only used this twice and sparingly.]

I'll have to save up for the soil probe - sounds like corners shouldn't be cut in terms of quality. Given that I'll be continuing to grow in soil it's a no-brainer really.

Earth Juice MicroBlast - can't seem to get hold of it here in the UK - any alternatives?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Thank you for such an in-depth response MOG.

RH and Temp - Rh fluctuates between 50 - 60% and temp 25 - 28c. [I'm growing in my loft conversation so outside temp has an effect.] They are drinking.....and lots. 2 1/2 litres twice a day although I sometimes leave watering for 24 hours.

The advice regarding single nutrient line makes a lot of sense although where do you stop??? I have Biobizz All Mix / Light Mix soil, Biobizz Grow, Bloom, Fish Mix and Heaven. The only non Biobizz products I have used are the Plant Magic Magne Cal and Plant Magic Platinum [I've only used this twice and sparingly.]

I'll have to save up for the soil probe - sounds like corners shouldn't be cut in terms of quality. Given that I'll be continuing to grow in soil it's a no-brainer really.

Earth Juice MicroBlast - can't seem to get hold of it here in the UK - any alternatives?

Yes you can make your own foliar spray with 4 ingredients Distilled water, yucca powder (or any surfactant), Fulvic Acid (
NPK Industries Raw Full up Amazon) and Kelp extract. Use the fulvic acid in a 5 to 2 ratio with the kelp.

 

[Harry_Kovert]

Yes you can make your own foliar spray with 4 ingredients Distilled water, yucca powder (or any surfactant), Fulvic Acid (
NPK Industries Raw Full up Amazon) and Kelp extract. Use the fulvic acid in a 5 to 2 ratio with the kelp.

I have zero funds to purchase anything until next Wednesday - is there anything I can do with the products I have until then?