The color isn't as bad as the photo below makes it seem, but I'm more worried about the slight curling on the tips. I watered it within the last day or so and added silica, plus I'll be using Mega Crop which has silica as well.
How old? what lights? how far?
You can grow plants at 80 F just need to keep lower PPM than you would at say 76 F or raise humidity to slow transpiration or a bit of both. I have a seemingly shit pheno of Bruce Banner #3 (photoperiod) and it seems to tolerate 80 just fine. Running that hot now. It was a throwaway plant so i am doing experimental bucket stuff to it ( it looks bad because of that and not the 80 F)
What are you using for humidity and ventilation ? I found 2 ultrasonic misters in a 5 gallon bucket was cooling off my 2 x 4 Too Much ( 6 degrees too much).
I have grown in low humidity for a long time, so you will be fine.I'm using RO, so my PPM should be pretty small. Unless I've misunderstood what "PPM" is in this context. I did try to raise the humidity, but it tops out at 55 - 57% because I live in a colder, dryer environment. I have a humidifier going 24/7, and I can probably get it up into 60% if I leave it on the highest setting, but I'm not sure I'll be around often enough to change the water.
I decided to unplug another light in the tent since that pot didn't sprout. It's dropped to 77 F and it might get as low as 74 F. I'll brainstorm permanent solutions, but I want to give her some respite from the heat for a bit.
How low?I have grown in low humidity for a long time, so you will be fine.
Are you adding calmag to the ro before watering?
I have grown in low humidity for a long time, so you will be fine.
Are you adding calmag to the ro before watering?
@Bantersaurus , I'm growing with TS1000's as well.
In my case, 2 lights in a 2x4 tent.
Heat is a major issue with these lights as you say,...but mid 80's is ok, some plants would prefer lower (we can agree on that).
As a quick fix, remove the drivers ( the 2x3x8) boxes on the lights, and put them outside the tent...as a test.
Long term, you would want to mount these drivers on something to keep them cool.
As others have mentioned, more calmag under these lights is a must.
And I'm using the Mega Crop too, so here goes...
I would say,...especially because you'r using RO water ( and this is an ok thing,....alright).
You should have an EC pen to measure your nute concetration,
I'd start off by mixing my calmag at 100 parts per million first (PPM) first,...then do the 4 grams of mega crop per gallon of water.
Adding more mega crop will fix this long term ( providing you mix at 5+ grams of Mega per gallon)....long term.
Short term, to fix this...
Up the anti on calmag.
The best way of doing so would be by using an EC pen to measure your parts per million (PPM) concentration of feed.
Another import part of your feed is measuring PH levels.
A pen to measure this would be a good idea too. Feed gets locked out if the soil PH is out of range ( usually 5.8 to 7.0)...
Both can be bought on Amazon for about $15 each, and a worth while investment if you want to have successful grows.
Your plant looks ok in the mean time, but catching an issue now is a good thing.
(Calling in the voice of experience on this one)> @Waira, @MarshydroTina
Cheers bro,
GC
-- 80F is just fine usually, more relevant is the RH%... Light proximity too, but you raised them now? Younger plants, seedlings, don't want the full balsting power that mature/blooming one do,... I see some stress signs (curling leaves, raised margin "teeth" especially), light/low RH%/heat can combine to make this happen, or worsen things.... Ah, I see the RH% now, that's OK, not optimal, but not an issue really... Go to the Reference section here in Sick Bay, and look up the VDP (vapor pressure deficit) article, and you'll have some good dots connected between RH%, T and transpiration rates... This is all about the transport highway from roots up, and how these things affect it,...
....that bit of spotting is harder to call, could be a few things... if it's not spreading, let it slide for now...