I wish led companies would-------

[Sour D]

I wish led co's would------

Quit making comparisons to HPS and other dinosaurs. Leds have proven themselves in the growrooms. Compare yourself to other leds.

Add "BTU"s to your specs. Telling me it is some percentage cooler than "other" lights and more efficient doesn't tell me squat. 150 watt light made from metal thinner than a tin can is going to put out more heat than one with well designed heat sinks. Put 10 in a small room and that's going to make a difference in the size of the air conditioner I will need, thus impacting the true Cost Of Ownership.

Offer a ducted hood so we don't need to run a 100 fans in a room.

Put the date of manufacture in the specs. A lot of you make claims about your "new" leds are so much better than the "old" ones yet that claim is made in everyone of your product categories- including ones that have been around for 5 years.

As far as I know, leds are low voltage. Offer your lights with or without the 110 vt brick so folks could hook them up to a solar array without losing efficiency by needing inverters.

Put soft off/on so you don't put such a heavy load on the circuits when the lights come on. Better for the plants as well.

Anyone else?

 

[WildBill]

I wish led co's would------

Quit making comparisons to HPS and other dinosaurs. Leds have proven themselves in the growrooms. Compare yourself to other leds.

Add "BTU"s to your specs. Telling me it is some percentage cooler than "other" lights and more efficient doesn't tell me squat. 150 watt light made from metal thinner than a tin can is going to put out more heat than one with well designed heat sinks. Put 10 in a small room and that's going to make a difference in the size of the air conditioner I will need, thus impacting the true Cost Of Ownership.

Offer a ducted hood so we don't need to run a 100 fans in a room.

Put the date of manufacture in the specs. A lot of you make claims about your "new" leds are so much better than the "old" ones yet that claim is made in everyone of your product categories- including ones that have been around for 5 years.

As far as I know, leds are low voltage. Offer your lights with or without the 110 vt brick so folks could hook them up to a solar array without losing efficiency by needing inverters.

Put soft off/on so you don't put such a heavy load on the circuits when the lights come on. Better for the plants as well.

Anyone else?

Ya make some interesting points.
I think ya have some thermal dynamics a little mixed up though. Given the exact same components with the only difference being the construction and efficiency of the heat sink, They will, after a certain time, for temps to stabilize, impart the same amount of heat to the air. I think they refer to the actual temperature of the light itself being cooler, not the amount of heat it imparts to the air.
My Mars SP6500 has a huge complicated and very efficient heat sink. With the driver remote mounted, you can hold your hand on any spot without any discomfort at all. For 650watts, it's crazy cool I think. That should be good for the longevity of the light and slow the loss of light output as the light ages.

I think that as solar becomes more prevalent, if it is possible, I think we may see that low voltage option, but I know nothing about how the driver functions.
Soft start is a good idea I think and pretty sure it could be easily done. Both my new a/c units have that function.

A hood would be a cool idea. I think it would add too much to the R&D and cost though.

 

[CannabisMingus]

included discrete UVA and UVB diodes (of decent intensity) that are both independently adjustable from the others. I suspect one could really maximize terp and cannabinoid production with that ability.

 

[WildBill]

included discrete UVA and UVB diodes (of decent intensity) that are both independently adjustable from the others. I suspect one could really maximize terp and cannabinoid production with that ability.

From what I've read and I think a vid from VIGRO, LED UVB diodes are just not quite there yet with power and intensity.

 

[CannabisMingus]

From what I've read and I think a vid from VIGRO, LED UVB diodes are just not quite there yet with power and intensity.

Ahhh. Then I guess at this red hot moment I wish they would include more options for UV T5 supplementation (a la California Lightworks).

 

[WildBill]

Ahhh. Then I guess at this red hot moment I wish they would include more options for UV T5 supplementation (a la California Lightworks).

Yeah, they have a nice setup with their UV supplementation. I duplicated it for less than $50....well maybe $60 with the double outlet timer.

 

[armanidog]

"As far as I know, leds are low voltage. Offer your lights with or without the 110 vt brick so folks could hook them up to a solar array without losing efficiency by needing inverters. "
The two types of solar powered system are those tied to the grid to supplement your electrical use and off-grid where solar provides all the power for a system.
You will still need a battery bank in case of cloudy weather for an off grid system. The cost of a battery bank is pretty significant. A neighbor has one and the batteries (non-lithium) are replaced every 5 years on the average. These batteries are designed for storing power. They run abound $200 each.
It would be better to supplement your existing electrical system with solar, you would save on the electric bill and not have to worry about batteries. A propane, natural gas, or diesel generator for power outages would be your back-up.

Solar batteries: Are they worth the cost?

A breakdown of how solar batteries work and what factors influence solar battery cost, including battery chemistry and the number of batteries installed.

www.solarreviews.com

 

[CannabisMingus]

Yeah, they have a nice setup with their UV supplementation. I duplicated it for less than $50....well maybe $60 with the double outlet timer.

I am doing the same with some 10.0 herp lights (T5s). Would be nice to have the option in the same fixture - and dimmable

 

[Sour D]

Ya make some interesting points.
I think ya have some thermal dynamics a little mixed up though. Given the exact same components with the only difference being the construction and efficiency of the heat sink, They will, after a certain time, for temps to stabilize, impart the same amount of heat to the air. I think they refer to the actual temperature of the light itself being cooler, not the amount of heat it imparts to the air.
My Mars SP6500 has a huge complicated and very efficient heat sink. With the driver remote mounted, you can hold your hand on any spot without any discomfort at all. For 650watts, it's crazy cool I think. That should be good for the longevity of the light and slow the loss of light output as the light ages.

I think that as solar becomes more prevalent, if it is possible, I think we may see that low voltage option, but I know nothing about how the driver functions.
Soft start is a good idea I think and pretty sure it could be easily done. Both my new a/c units have that function.

A hood would be a cool idea. I think it would add too much to the R&D and cost though.

I understand what your saying as to heat sink, I think the main purpose is to drawer the heat from the lights upward rather than down on the plants and your fans are set to draw that heat out. As theses lights evolve, I'm sure they run cooler--but, how much? I started out with 2-ts1000's. When I put them both in the same closet, even with the brick mounted outside, temps went up to 88. With 2- sp150's, my temps stay between 78 & 81. The sp150's are newer and improved bulbs as well as the brick is a lot smaller. I changed all the lighting in the bus over to low voltage led's. Great light and much cooler--and they will run off the solar panel in the day and storage battery at night.

HPS companies already figured out the hood bit. Basically half a tin can with a collar at each end. It would be kinda tough for these new rack designs.
It would also be nice if these big $$ companies standardised their designs so that when new tech bulbs come out, you could upgrade your existing fixtures. Then I'd be willing to pay the money. To me, a 5 year warranty isn't worth a dime. I know in 2 years, companies like Mars will have new tech for probably less than I paid for my current fixtures and total cost for the old and new will be less than the big $$ companies current products.

There are some companies already making soft starts

 

[Rapha El]

The thing about the BTUs is it doesn't matter, all you need is the wattage draw from the wall. You can have Drivers that are x% efficient and LEDs that are y% efficient, meaning all the percentages that don't go into ac power or light are converted into heat. BUT the photons themselves are eventually converted to heat. So in effect every light is a space heater, just a brighter/slower one.