You can also find soil ph probes online.. The slurry test is ok at best. It gives a general idea of ph. A probe will tell you the soil ph without adding anything. Just a true ph reading. I use this one. Found it on ebay 2 yrs ago for under $40.
I thought I knew something, but I did not! Any help appreciated please!
- Thread starter AnsiDrop
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Also wanted to note the tent is 4x4 with the 480w quantum.
The PAR meter does the conversion on its own to uM. I was going off the basis that for uM this works:
250-400 clone or seed
400-600 veg
600-900 flower
I totally need experience as was mentioned on reading the plant. I am focusing as much as I can on this however I think without experience, text booking this is impossible. And as mentioned too... each is different. Thanks again for all the info and help. Going to still do the ph tests because I can. Will throw the results up shortly and also I will PAR the canopy again.
The PAR meter does the conversion on its own to uM. I was going off the basis that for uM this works:
250-400 clone or seed
400-600 veg
600-900 flower
I totally need experience as was mentioned on reading the plant. I am focusing as much as I can on this however I think without experience, text booking this is impossible. And as mentioned too... each is different. Thanks again for all the info and help. Going to still do the ph tests because I can. Will throw the results up shortly and also I will PAR the canopy again.
Ahh.. Sorry about getting the tent size wrong! And thanks for the pics! That helped a ton. Those babies are still super young and probably just sensitive to the lights. I think I noticed the leaf curl on two of the pics, and it seems to be effecting the new growth more than the established leaves. Im confident that you are on the right track!
Oh, and for autos, I use a chart of
150 umols = seedlings/clones
300-400 = veg
700-1000 = flower.
But the plant will always have the final say and tell us if we are right or wrong! We're all here to help so keep doing what you're doing and asking questions!!
Alright, having another little blast of some Romulan, so decided I would post up the soil test results I got form my 10 pots. All with 100% Happy Frog. This was the process:
! shot of semi-packed soil. 1 shot of pH 6.5 water. Mix well. Let sit for 1 joint.
Measure ph. Realize forgot to recalibrate meter due to Romulan. Calibrate 4/7 on the meter. Remeasure ph. one more time to make sure result is similar. If result was different, remeasure ph.
1) 5.1
2) 5.7
3) 5.1
4) 5.1
5) 5.1
6) 5.3
7) 4.9
8) 5.3
9) 5.7
10) 5.7
These should be reading 6.3-6.5, no?!
! shot of semi-packed soil. 1 shot of pH 6.5 water. Mix well. Let sit for 1 joint.
Measure ph. Realize forgot to recalibrate meter due to Romulan. Calibrate 4/7 on the meter. Remeasure ph. one more time to make sure result is similar. If result was different, remeasure ph.
1) 5.1
2) 5.7
3) 5.1
4) 5.1
5) 5.1
6) 5.3
7) 4.9
8) 5.3
9) 5.7
10) 5.7
These should be reading 6.3-6.5, no?!
Precisely why I dont use the slurry method. I dont understand the logic behind it. If there is a shot glass of soil and you want to know the ph of that soil, pouring a shot glass worth of water on it that is ph'd to 6.5, before you even take a reading, doesnt make sense to me. Maybe someone can explain it better. I cant see how an accurate ph reading can come of it. The ph is different in different areas of the pot. If I did use this method, I would take soil samples from as close to the root zone as possible. How can a shot glass sized sample be a sufficient sample size for a 3 gallon pot full of soil. That has to be like the equivalent of testing 1% of a total area. Im sure someone will come along with more help with the slurry test!
Hello there fellow Growers I just followed long interested what you all had to say and looking at your pics having grown and Happy Frog and ocean Farm I think that you're suffering from your growing medium is a little too hot for the Young autoflowers even as within the same gene pool you'll have some that can tolerate it more than the others and had I not ran out of Happy Frog Eye would would not found this out however the auto flowers that were planted in plain potting soil without nutrients did better then the ones planted straight into the hobbyfrog however then you'll run into the problem are you good at transplanting them
I PAR'd out the tent and was getting an average reading of 300 uM, so, using your #'s I decided to lower the wattage of the light at max height. I am also now experimenting with the exhaust on with the tent fully enclosed. Do you recommend I keep the tent at around 50% humidity?
I was posting the slurry test in hopes it means something to someone and maybe it can also identify a problem I am going to run into. If that represents the pH of the water the plants are sucking up (albeit in that 1 area i picked soil from), then to me it looks like I should be watering with ph 8.5 water or something to balance that on the next full watering. Looks like I might source out one of those pH soil testers. The amount of gadgets one can collect is incredible!
Thanks for the reply @Grimemy. I have not tried my hand at transplanting an auto yet, but perhaps this will be one of the changes I do for the next grow. I think I will do a plain type of siol in a solo cup, then move it to the 3 gallons, on whatever next medium I use. I think you are right that the stuff is hot. As an experiment, I dropped 2 sprouted beans into HF Ocean and I don't see them coming up at all. I think they dead, but am still trying in case they are just having a rough time coming up.
I read that transplanting is not necessarily a good idea for auto's if you mess up you cause growth issues. Could I not fill a put with super soil, then cone out a spot for the seed that would be plain soil? Maybe I can try one way and the other to see which fares better for me.
That works pretty good scoop out place in the middle the big thing about transplanting Autoflower is you got to understand that it's Taproot is growing extremely fast probably an inch or more a day you can't let bump the bottom
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