Humic and Fulvic acids info thread,...

Microbial preparation... hello all!
Ok, so our outdoor season is quickly approaching for all us northern growers. Don't wait to start your soil. Indoor and outdoor/greenhouse growers, get your grow bag microbial life going!
Especially for auto genetics, don't wait until June for your soil mix to come alive. If you're planting Memorial Weekend, get your soil together now. Today I added fish emulsions and ground Icelandic kelp. I then sprinkled leonardite over the top of each bag. The lake I use for water is still froze over. My well water is very high alkaline content. So I haul water from a nearby town. Letting the chlorine evaporate 24 hours before using in my soil bags.

Having your soil alive and the microbial fungi already working on decomposition. When running auto's this gives you and your plants an edge. Versus having your seedlings working harder and waiting longer to have a self ph balanced environment working for you and your plants.

Happy growing my auto friends.
Peace. Farmerlion
Thanks for the input bro. I'm a first time (outdoor) auto grower and it's kind of been bugging me that when I mix up a soil and put it in a bag, it's pretty dry and I'm thinking that there isn't much of a microbial colony at all in the beginning. So you're saying that kelp and fish emulsion will facilitate that? It's still too cool here to try a tea brew for 48 hours......:confused1:
 
You can mix your soil , add liquid seaweed and fish emulsion to the soil . These are microbe foods , Just keep your soil damp till you are ready to use it . :thumbsup:
 
:smoking:- great summary article here! ....juicy find @namvet25 , thanks- :d5:





Humic and fulvic acids can greatly benefit your plant’s growth.They can help increase your yield, make your plants more resistant and aid their growth in many ways.
Humic and fulvic acids are essential for healthy plant growth. They help to increase the nutrient uptake of plants and can condition soil for a more efficient use of fertilizers. They help in establishing healthier roots, help increase yield and are beneficial for an overall better plant development. Organic soil grows and soil-less grows can take advantage of the benefits of humic and fulvic acids.

The issue marijuana growers face is that they are normally using unnatural systems that are low in humic and fulvic acids or that these can be entirely absent. Hydroponic systems in particular often use sterile mediums like Hydroton, rockwool or perlite that don’t contain any humic or fulvic acids at all. Even growers who grow in soil should know that soil is normally depleted of humic-fulvic acids or that it may contain less than optimal amounts.

A simple explanation of the both can be that humic acid helps soil health and general growth while fulvic acid (which is extracted from humic acid) acts as a fertilizer booster.

WHAT IS HUMIC ACID?
Humic acid is dark brown or black organic matter that is water-soluble at more alkaline levels. It derives from the organic components of soil such as humus or peat and is produced by microorganisms that break down dead organic matter.

Humic acid is an excellent soil conditioner due to its high molecular weight. It works well for soil and soil-less substrates where it supplements and rejuvenates the growing medium at the same time. Adding humic acid will improve the medium’s water retention and it will facilitate the movement and availability of nutrients.

Humic acid is a great chelating agent. It attaches itself to micronutrients where it forms a bond so that the mineral can be more easily absorbed by plants. It is also promoting a better ion-exchange and supports better buffering capabilities. When elements such as calcium, iron, magnesium, zinc and manganese can be absorbed more easily, it benefits both, the growth of plant matter and root mass. This beneficial effect of adding humic acid effect can be observed in soil grows and hydroponic grows.

WHAT IS FULVIC ACID?
Fulvic acid is humic material that is light yellow to yellow-brown in color but it is soluble at all pH levels. Science believes that Fulvic acid is made up of DNA from dead organic life forms which means that it is between the organic and mineral world. Due to the close relationship with humic acid, some see fulvic acid as being a “fancier” version of humic acid.

Fulvic acid has a lower molecular weight than humic acid. It has less carbon but a higher oxygen content. Because of its lower molecular weight, it can easier penetrate plant leaves and the plant’s cells. It can even enter the plants' mitochondria. Because of this characteristic of fulvic acid, it is very efficient when applied as root drench or foliar spray.

HOW CAN CANNABIS GROWERS TAKE ADVANTAGE OF HUMIC AND FULVIC ACID?
We can apply humic substances with many different growing techniques. We can take advantage of them whether we grow in soil or soil-less. They work with irrigation, when added to a watering regimen or if we supplement them to soil in dry form. Humic substances are also beneficial for seedlings, cuttings and clones

Humic acid and fulvic acid can chelate minerals into a form that makes them easier available and easier to absorb to our plants. One side-effect here is also that harmful toxic substances become less of a threat. Adding humic acid and fulvic acid increases water retention and filtration ability of the medium so that plants can tolerate water shortages and dry spells better. As a result, stress on the plants is reduced and the germination rate is increased. The same beneficial effect encourages root growth, plant metabolism and cell division.

HOW TO APPLY HUMIC ACID AND FULVIC ACID
When you grow in soil, you can add liquid or dry humic acid that is diluted with water. You can feed it directly to the soil. This is the recommended application method for clones or seedlings. It can also be beneficial if you supplement your seeds with humic acids prior to germination.

Some growers like to make compost tea where they add humic acid in powder or liquid form before they start brewing.

For foliar sprays, humic acid powder or liquid can be diluted with water. You spray the solution liberally on the plant leaves. Applying fulvic acid as a foliar spray has another, curious benefit that is still not entirely understood: It can substitute sunlight. When it is overcast for a longer time period, a foliar application with fulvic acid can make photosynthesis continue despite less than optimal weather conditions. Parks and golf courses are already taking advantage of this effect to rejuvenate and green-up areas that are shaded. Fulvic acid has big potential to provide its benefits for many different types of plants and crops.

WHERE TO OBTAIN HUMIC AND FULVIC ACID
When you shop around for humic substances, either online or in well-sorted garden stores, you can find various forms of them in different concentrations. It can be a good idea if you buy them in person from a reputable garden store where you can have staff advise you what type would be best. This can be helpful if you want to avoid overdosing. Otherwise, make sure to always read the instructions that come with the product. As a rule, applying humic substances frequently but in smaller doses is recommended over giving them less frequent but in larger doses.
That's a great article, thanks. I think that I actually unlocked a nutrient lock-out with Fulvic acid. Waira had pointed out that my soil was likely messed up with low ph, and he was right. That plant looked like it wouldn't live and was tiny burnt leaves. It stayed that way until I found some Fulvex on sale at a local store, read up on it and tried it out. I'll show a picture of that plant at that stage, and then another today. It really did turn around after the Fulvic acid addition. I also added some Dolomite lime to raise ph so maybe that accounted for the improvement but I think it was after the turn around that I added the lime. It's a little Hindu Kush plant in about 4 gallons of soil that just began flowering and although it never got that big, the leave structure returned to nearly normal after the skinny pointy leaves of the dwarf. I'm not suggesting that anyone try this but it might merit looking into for a strategy to treat dwarfed plants. I don't know if it would do anything for a plant that was dwarfed from physical root damage. I'll try it the next time I screw up a transplant :face:
For what it's worth......
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I've used a pelitized and micronized Biochar/Humic acid 50/50 product on my lawn. It has done wonders for my Bermuda lawn.
This week I'm making up some new soil for a living earth grow. I add my material in layers and lightly wet as I go with some of my own brewed and inoculated compost tea and mix it up in my old cattle water trough( big old clawfoot bath tub:biggrin:}
I'm gonna try 3% by volume on this first batch.
Best thing about this product is how well is disburses once water hits it. It begins to break down as soon as water hits it and breaks down to microscopic size. In the lawn it migrates into the soil structure pretty quickly and will get well into the root zone in short order.
It's fairly expensive, but a little goes a long way and WILL cut your nutes usage NEEDED by the plant/soil.

HumiChar Biochar/Humic acid 50/50 product

Amazon product

Organic Humic Acid Humic acid only

Amazon product
 
I've used a pelitized and micronized Biochar/Humic acid 50/50 product on my lawn. It has done wonders for my Bermuda lawn.
This week I'm making up some new soil for a living earth grow. I add my material in layers and lightly wet as I go with some of my own brewed and inoculated compost tea and mix it up in my old cattle water trough( big old clawfoot bath tub:biggrin:}
I'm gonna try 3% by volume on this first batch.
Best thing about this product is how well is disburses once water hits it. It begins to break down as soon as water hits it and breaks down to microscopic size. In the lawn it migrates into the soil structure pretty quickly and will get well into the root zone in short order.
It's fairly expensive, but a little goes a long way and WILL cut your nutes usage NEEDED by the plant/soil.

HumiChar Biochar/Humic acid 50/50 product

Amazon product

Organic Humic Acid Humic acid only

Amazon product

I changed the amount of the HumiChar I used to amend at the time of mixing the soil. I added 5 cups for each 1.5 cu/ft of organic grow media. I know what it will do on a lawn and how far it will migrate into soil. I'm pretty sure this rate will be enough to show very good results without being too much over the top.......I'd love to be able to apply this rate to my lawn!
I'm sure the plant will be more than able to utilize at this rate and distributing it at the time of mixing. The one thing I will do at the end of the first grow is to check at the bottom of the pot to see how much of the biochar migrated there. With the grow media being so loose, more of it may migrate to the bottom. If that occurs, I'll still amend at the time of mixing, but I will also top dress amend during a grow.
 
I bought RAW humic acid when I had a lockout and definitely seemed to help (thanks to @Mañ'O'Green ’s wisdom) I’m a believer. I have a new grow starting now in HF soil. The soil said it a;ready has humic acid, so I didn’t add initially, but I’m wondering: Is it a good idea to add RAW humic acid around 3 weeks, before starting nutes? Would this help the nutes to be better utilized thereafter?
 
I bought RAW humic acid when I had a lockout and definitely seemed to help (thanks to @Mañ'O'Green ’s wisdom) I’m a believer. I have a new grow starting now in HF soil. The soil said it a;ready has humic acid, so I didn’t add initially, but I’m wondering: Is it a good idea to add RAW humic acid around 3 weeks, before starting nutes? Would this help the nutes to be better utilized thereafter?
Well, I'm doing an experiment with it and a couple other things in my next grow. I intend to use humic acid in my waterings.
It will be with an amino acids and KNF tech blended with my conventional organics.
If anything, it will be interesting.
 
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