Help with identifying the leaf signs

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  • Yellow or brown tipsNutrient burn, which comes from giving the plant too many nutrients or nutrients in too high of a concentration.
  • Top inner leaves turning yellow and white – Iron deficiency.
  • Lower leaves with oldest growth turn yellow between veins – Magnesium deficiency.
  • Leaves turning yellow between veins with brown spots – Manganese deficiency.
  • Lower leaves yellowing and falling off – Nitrogen deficiency.
  • Yellowing and dark splotches appear on leaves that drop off – Phosphorous. deficiency
  • Yellow along smaller veins with brown or yellow edges – Potassium deficiency.
  • Lower leaves turning yellow at base, spreading to tips – Sulfur deficiency.
  • Top leaves turning greenish yellow – Zinc deficiency.
  • Upper leaves dark with tips and edges turning yellow – Copper deficiency.
  • Yellowing stems that feel hollow, brown spots – Calcium deficiency.
  • Newer growth is thick and unusual looking, with yellowing and brown spots – Boron deficiency.
 
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If you aren't sure, one TBL spoon of epsom salt in one gallon of water is safe to use. Also earthworm castings have many micro and macro nutrients.
 
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Thank you very much for your reply, but to be honest i still have trouble identifying the issue. To me it looks like multiple deficiencies, mostly phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium. Which would make sense since it's in flower and i haven't added any of those nutrients yet.

But it could be that i locked out my plant because i burned it with Fish Mix and BioGrow, so maybe the nutes are there but the plant can't get it, requiring a flush. I'm still not sure what to do. I'd like to try a flush but the leaf issue started progressing more, and by the time the soil dries after flush it might spread throughout the whole plant.

What would you suggest, should i flush with a lot of water and wait, or feed with some Bloom and Calmag?
 
Looks like too much nitrogen has caused a salt build up/nutrient lock, which leads to More nitrogen. Calmag will make these kinda issues worse. If ure in coco flush plenty of light nutrients through it until your ppms are under 500. If in soil, I recommend you use something like florakleen. To test, feed until run off then check the run off water with a PPM meter
 
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Thanks for your suggestion. Yesterday i watered with a little bit of BioBloom and CalMag so i will see how it goes in the next few days. Hopefully it doesn't get worse as you say. I don't have Epsom or worm castings at hand and it's weekend so i'll have to wait for next week. It looks a lot like magnesium deficiency on upper leaves, and some new brown spots appeared that look like calcium deficiency. It's almost week 7 and it's been in flower for 2 weeks, just started producing sugar leaves but the pistils are too small and rare. I see everyone else started adding Bloom by this time, so i have a feeling this might be it, apart from the nutrient burns. If it stops spreading then great, but if it keeps spreading i will do a flush. And also, besides adding too much Fish Mix, most of these problems started once i started watering until 20% runoff, 6-7 liters of water with pH 6 - 6.5.
While i was watering with only 3 liters with pH 7, i had no problems even when i burned it Fish Mix.

I'm in soil and with Biobizz nutrients they say the PPM is not accurate because it doesn't have any salts in them, i can check but i think it won't give the me proper idea of what's going on.
 
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