Outdoor Guerilla growing tecnique

B

blinky34

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Hi mates! This is one of my first post on this forum. I was growing a photo strains in the past, i know for auto strains before, but that was not find attractive to me [little yield, basically new strain that need works/not know how will behave, sheeP like that]. Boy what a fool i was! I basically grow guerilla style and i looked at the aye of an guerilla man :toke: ... Advantage of autos for guerilla: low height [not seen by curious eye], short grow cycle [less time exposed], more/less cold resistant.
Disadvantages: low yield [multiple by number, you got your yield], soil consument...
But.
My style of growing would be like this [for photo strains]:
1. Dig a HOLE 70 cm deep, 15-20 cm wide.
2. Prep soil mix at home [soil mix includes: worm compost, fert {vegetation+flowering}, WATER CRYSTALS, vermiculite], and divide it in bags [one bag one hole].
3. Go to site/sites, dig, mix bag with soil [half mix-half native], mulch.
4. After a 2-3 weeks, go at sites, plant 10 cm long plant or clone. [decision to plant is when rain is that day or tomorrow, so not having to water at planting]
5. Return when blooming is over, approximatelly september [early pheno/strain], to cut off.
I not water at all. Let explain. My lat is 42. I have HOT summer, cold winter [last year spring and autumn is not noticable anymore]. Before 3 days temp in the open street was 41 C. That is super hot, but i have water crystals, that will help, plant to reach to another rain, without dieing. My plants root is deep enough to also find water at ground, and also to protect root from heat. The key for health plant is STRONG roots. I also choose when plant is ready for out not for height and vigorous of plant, but for a strong root to 'grab' the soil. That is a few hints that WILL help you with promote outside plants, and keep healthy. It is at least with photo strains. But what is with autos? Do they respond like this? I know it is a Cannabis plant, but can it be a different? Sorry for my bad english, i think i help a newbies to guerilla, but can you, olders, experianced, with autos, help me, or anyone who is interested in this?
In any case thanks mates, this is an the best forums with ICMAG in line, on the net! Thanks!
 
Anyone? I posted the same question on some other thread but not recieving an answer, thinking it is not my thread to spam and open a new one. But seems that nobody know an answer... maybe older ones? Who have enough experiances with auto, or simply with auto in the ground, guerilla, plant and leave...
 
Well, I'm not neither experienced nor a guerrilla grower but that sounds correct to me. Strong roots is the key to a strong plant (any plant!). There's just the question, that you'll have to decide, what is the best time and method for transplant, to reduce the amount of environment stress. My noob opinion would be somewhere around when they show their sex, because I think they're big, strong and you can choose the females.

I dunno, just my thoughts.
 
I don't believe in neglecting the plants the whole season. When I do guerilla grows I visit my plants at least once a week to check on their progress, water, feed and check for insects. Spider mites, in particular, are a common outdoor pest and can ruin a whole crop in a very short period of time. I also apply deer repellant on a regular basis after having several plants badly eaten by them.
 
I would say that there is so many ways as there is growers and spots to grow. What works whit one gorilla in one spot may not work with another gorilla in a different spot. If you can work your grow to that point that you know your spot, methods of growing, strains you are growing and can tell from the weather what if anything will need to be given to your plants... Well then you can pull this no attention at all gorilla grow of yours and bee greatly revarded on minimum effort. :2cents:
Don't get me wrong. I like your idea as it is similar that I got on my grow, but i'm not there yet. Last summer visited to my grow 6 times in total. This season as often as it has been possible.
Muddy I fear every time I visit to my spot that those damn dears have ruined everything. Seen them allot, ones lying 2m away from my plants.
 
That is conversation people! I see some potencial here :D . No kidding this and that subject are one of very interesting and helpful information. Ok. Hugo, because i read from you :D that autos don't like transplant, i think that growing in regular cups week or so and then transplant to outside. This have one advantage: big number of plant in vegetative and germination center. One disadvantage: males. This can be solved, when we transplant our plants come back after 2 weeks, find males, pull up, and in that place transplant new small plant, and that in circle, until we have all females. That male for 2 weeks won't be using much soil, and we can still use that hole for another new plant. That way hole and soil would not go to failure.
Muddy i read your post and you seems very experianced with autos. So my admire to you. But we wont neglect plants whole season we will just help plant in the first 4-5 weeks, then they will do their things, and that will be to grow! Cannabis is nature plant and for that it can take care of herself, we will just help a litlle bit in the beginnig and when is a plant a little bigger and older she can take a care of her.
Purple that is absoluttely right. A land and a position of sun and lattitude is just another variables who determent of plant wheter is going to grow or not. But i will tell you this. On every land where is grass and vegetation green through whole season in that land will our plant grow without helping of anyone of us! No polymers, no water, no feed no anything! That is ofcourse on photoperiodicals plants. But even this is applicable on autos i think so. This is whole discussion for one thing. One man, any and i mean ANY of us can plant say.... 300 plant and with minimizing of maintenance and % of lost plant, can finish a grow with say 50 % plants for 3 months. This can yield 150*10 g = kilo and a half weed for less then 3 months. And that is for 50% loss. If we can minimize loss and maintenance you can get the number. And yield for plant of 10 g, let say lowriders #2, which can grow in the front of Police department, we see our advantage. This will be a killer thread which can help each of us i tell you.
So a question for you, especially Muddy. Do you think a water polymers can help our plant through whole life circle for non-watering? Because autos (of what i heard from you) like to be drought before watering, but also and photo plants want the same thing but can be non watered with polymers. If this a case with autos? Do some of you have a experiance?
 
I use a product called Liquid Fence Deer and Rabbit Repellant. It only has to be applied once a month. When the plants are young and have no buds yet I spray the plants directly. Once the buds start to form I just spray around the plants and the general area around them. I've used it for 4 years and have not had one plant eaten. Deer have bedded down in that area and I've seen hoof prints right next to the plants but they haven't touched them.

Muddy I fear every time I visit to my spot that those damn dears have ruined everything. Seen them allot, ones lying 2m away from my plants.
 
It's not so much that autos don't like to be transplanted as people not knowing how to do it correctly. I start all my plants in smaller pots and transplant after they sex. I've paid close attention to them and find that when done properly, they are back to their normal growth with 24 - 36 hours after transplant.

My main concern with leaving the plants unattended is insects, especially spider mites. They devastated my outdoor crop 3 years ago. From 9 photo plants I ended up with less than 1 pound of usable bud. I had been hoping for at least 8 pounds from them. I've found that weekly treatments of insecticidal soap keeps them in check. Your plants would also benefit from a periodic booster feed of some bloom nutrients.

I've not used polymers myself but can see a benefit to using them in guerilla grows, especially in dryer climates. You may want to try a side by side experiment, a couple holes with them, a couple without.

That is conversation people! I see some potencial here :D . No kidding this and that subject are one of very interesting and helpful information. Ok. Hugo, because i read from you :D that autos don't like transplant, i think that growing in regular cups week or so and then transplant to outside. This have one advantage: big number of plant in vegetative and germination center. One disadvantage: males. This can be solved, when we transplant our plants come back after 2 weeks, find males, pull up, and in that place transplant new small plant, and that in circle, until we have all females. That male for 2 weeks won't be using much soil, and we can still use that hole for another new plant. That way hole and soil would not go to failure.
Muddy i read your post and you seems very experianced with autos. So my admire to you. But we wont neglect plants whole season we will just help plant in the first 4-5 weeks, then they will do their things, and that will be to grow! Cannabis is nature plant and for that it can take care of herself, we will just help a litlle bit in the beginnig and when is a plant a little bigger and older she can take a care of her.
Purple that is absoluttely right. A land and a position of sun and lattitude is just another variables who determent of plant wheter is going to grow or not. But i will tell you this. On every land where is grass and vegetation green through whole season in that land will our plant grow without helping of anyone of us! No polymers, no water, no feed no anything! That is ofcourse on photoperiodicals plants. But even this is applicable on autos i think so. This is whole discussion for one thing. One man, any and i mean ANY of us can plant say.... 300 plant and with minimizing of maintenance and % of lost plant, can finish a grow with say 50 % plants for 3 months. This can yield 150*10 g = kilo and a half weed for less then 3 months. And that is for 50% loss. If we can minimize loss and maintenance you can get the number. And yield for plant of 10 g, let say lowriders #2, which can grow in the front of Police department, we see our advantage. This will be a killer thread which can help each of us i tell you.
So a question for you, especially Muddy. Do you think a water polymers can help our plant through whole life circle for non-watering? Because autos (of what i heard from you) like to be drought before watering, but also and photo plants want the same thing but can be non watered with polymers. If this a case with autos? Do some of you have a experiance?
 
I didn't say autos don't like transplants.

In fact they can benefit tremendously from them if they're in a small pot. I say it's stressful, and there are some ways to do it properly. I'm not versed in that as I usually only do 1 transplant in their life time. But it's not supposed to be hard. Letting the pot dry before transplant is a technic that sounds smart to me. :)
 
Blinky I grow all my outdoor plants in 1-1,5l milk cartons that I have modified to kinda airpots. I plant the sprouted seeds streight after germination on these. After 5-6 weeks they have sexed and I transplant them out. I rip the bottom of from the milk carton and put it in the hole and jerk the carton out. Carton slides over the plant and doesn't seem to hurt them a bit. Next summer I'm planing to try also some 5"deep root trainer sells just to compare and pull out males later.
I haven't use polymers because my gorilla spots are in a wet marsh land so plenty of water there.
I'm kinda noob whit the autos so I just wait them to slow their speed of growht and then give them some P-K and molasses.
Muddy that Liquid Fence sounds good stuff so far I have just eat meat and pee next to my plants in to a empty bottle. :crying: And I have sprayed my plants with neem I think it just tastes bad and those deers have left my girls alone. Snails on the other hand have done some serious damage. :cuss: them.
 
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