Got some rusty leaves.

[Mañ'O'Green]

It looks like a phosphorus deficiency but maybe some other things as well. First off you are missing the third part to the minimal nutrient regime Tiger Bloom. Multipart fertilizer programs require a minimum schedule and really you will get better results using the entire line.

The other problem may be PH going in is too high but peat can wander lower so you need to know the PH in the root zone. You need to get an Accurate 8 PH soil probe (or the clone) or a Blue Lab soil probe. If you go with Blue Lab be sure to get the correct one as they make several. Do not bother with any of the cheap ones as they do not work.

Don't feed a single nutrient at any given time always with the other balanced nutrients otherwise you will get lockouts.

RH is too low for 80°F shoot for 60% .

 

[Rbailey]

It looks like a phosphorus deficiency but maybe some other things as well. First off you are missing the third part to the minimal nutrient regime Tiger Bloom. Multipart fertilizer programs require a minimum schedule and really you will get better results using the entire line.

The other problem may be PH going in is too high but peat can wander lower so you need to know the PH in the root zone. You need to get an Accurate 8 PH soil probe (or the clone) or a Blue Lab soil probe. If you go with Blue Lab be sure to get the correct one as they make several. Do not bother with any of the cheap ones as they do not work.


View attachment 1219655

Don't feed a single nutrient at any given time always with the other balanced nutrients otherwise you will get lockouts.

RH is too low for 80°F shoot for 60% .

Wow, thanks for the info. I have a cheap spil probe which is probably why my soil ph might be off as much. I'll grab some tiger bloom and do a big flush. Should I wait for the soil to dry out or just flush away? I've read 2-3x the amount of water per bucket, so 10-15 gallons one gallon at time, yeah?

 

[Rbailey]

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I am still just a noob in the grow game. Usually when people add nutrients when using soil, they use them every other watering or every third. Some people have a feeding schedule based on strains and how old the plant is.

what I have learned is, when you are feeding too often it can actually create a nutrient lockout and the plant is unable to absorb certain nutrients. It will be a deficiency but it doesn't matter how much of that nutrient you put into the soil the plant cannot physically take any in.

In my case, I had done a flush with room temperature water to wash the nutrients out of the soil. The plant will never really heal up those rust colored leaves but It will still survive. Mine stunted for more than a week and then continued to fill out buds again. It still yielded about 4 oz and was okay smoke. After that I grabbed up some "water only soil" and used just pH'd water for the entire grow without adding any nutrients and had a way easier time. It's still good to have the nutrients on hand in case of a deficiency.

My mistake----> https://www.autoflower.org/threads/it-is-my-fun-new-hobby.74892/

My first "water only" grow---> https://www.autoflower.org/threads/1st-time-organic-grow-3-gallon-pot.77818/

Very solid. A lot for me to learn, and thanks for the links man! I sure do appreciate it!

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Wow, thanks for the info. I have a cheap spil probe which is probably why my soil ph might be off as much. I'll grab some tiger bloom and do a big flush. Should I wait for the soil to dry out or just flush away? I've read 2-3x the amount of water per bucket, so 10-15 gallons one gallon at time, yeah?

Don't do a big flush just do a 20% run-off with the the new Balanced Nutrients. Then the next day PHed water to 20% run-off, then a 20% run-off with the the new Balanced Nutrients again Then PHed water to 20%. So after 4 days you should be good in the pot and drop back to a smaller 5% - 10% run-off. A big flush wreaks havoc on the microbe biome and that is a last ditch effort.

 

[Rbailey]

Don't do a big flush just do a 20% run-off with the the new Balanced Nutrients. Then the next day PHed water to 20% run-off, then a 20% run-off with the the new Balanced Nutrients again Then PHed water to 20%. So after 4 days you should be good in the pot and drop back to a smaller 5% - 10% run-off. A big flush wreaks havoc on the microbe biome and that is a last ditch effort.

Oh, wow. Dude, can't thank you guys enough. Run off to 20% would be 1 gallon of run off, right? I can't find a cut and dry explanation for watering to run off Also, should I add nutrients to each gallon (or however much) of water when I water to 20% run off using the new nutrient combo? I hope that makes sense.

 

[Rbailey]

Came home after a few and my youngest looks like it has nitrogen toxicity. Leaves are dark green and clawing all to hell. My second oldest also looks like it's beginning to get the same burned tips and spots as the oldest, but minimal. It also showed some tacoing so I raised the lights to 26" and dimmed them to 250w for now to avoid further stress.I'm going to go grab some tiger bloom first thing the shop opens, but am beginning to wonder how I should rectify these issues. Should I treat them all the same, and do the feed>normal water>feed>normal water cycle you suggested? I, like others before me, did loads of research but missed some vital telling points it seems

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Oh, wow. Dude, can't thank you guys enough. Run off to 20% would be 1 gallon of run off, right? I can't find a cut and dry explanation for watering to run off Also, should I add nutrients to each gallon (or however much) of water when I water to 20% run off using the new nutrient combo? I hope that makes sense.

I must be high! I understood that . it is just 20% of the water you add to the pot in this day. Some peeps minds work better with fractions than percentages how about 1/5 run-off so what that means is for every 5 cups of water in you want 1 to come out the bottom.

As far as the fertigation schedule look to the chart above. The instructions are there so you don't have to remember or hunt around.

 

[Rbailey]

I must be high! I understood that . it is just 20% of the water you add to the pot in this day. Some peeps minds work better with fractions than percentages how about 1/5 run-off so what that means is for every 5 cups of water in you want 1 to come out the bottom.

As far as the fertigation schedule look to the chart above. The instructions are there so you don't have to remember or hunt around.

Haha, right on :smoking: I gotcha on both counts.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I am high. Water slowly so the media gets thoroughly wet. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

 

[Rbailey]

I am high. Water slowly so the media gets thoroughly wet. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

That makes perfect sense, and I'm super high