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Indoor FullAuto245 Constant journal
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Auto mate hi, where to start is the Qs................ best i just go in at the deep end as usual !....... will give you my advice........... based on your last and first grow, and what eventually developed there....... if i remember right.............. here is the link to WhiteLight's blog, who i am showing how to grow, to max yeild, "On His First Grow" also.............. worth a read.............. as it is the evidence, and experience my advice is based on Auto ok............
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/dp-ultimates-first.69904/page-26#post-2100871
Right lets get it said..............
not sure what you was using before, think it was a 400w HPS ??................... this is your first led grow right ??........ here is the rub re the 200 quid king plus......2000w ?/................ more like 400w if you add up the number of diodes at run wattage of "2w", as 5w diodes are run at 2w etc.............. 2000w is a bit excessive a claim......... but the true 400w it delivers is enough for your two plants pos 3 if one aint a "Monganoi".....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253978670287?ul_noapp=true
the king plus led diode spectrum "Manufacturer Chosen" =
vegetative and flowering stage: 410nm, 430~440nm, 450~475nm, 620~630nm, 650~670nm, White, IR(730nm) (It is hard to see clearly by eyes, very dim.Please don't think they are not working. Instead, it plays an very important role in the flowering and fruiting stages of plants.)
there are 2no "IR" & 2no "UV" diodes also............... this is a essential element, left out by most led manufacturers, who do not understand the daylight spectrum................. they just look at the "Color" spectrum and miss the two important diodes out !...................
so the unit gets a thumbs up from me, for that reason, the unit could perform, we will see......... for 200 quid from shenzeng in china.............. we will see........
= 196no diodes @2w = 392w of light power around 25,000 lumens............... should be enough lumen
but the first with led auto ??......................in that case in your tent you will have low heat issues, as the led will save 78% of electricity, but will remove 70% of the heat generated by the HPS.......................you will need to heat your tent, lights on and off, to get a good yield............ lights of minimum temp is 22c.............max lights on is 28c to 30c.....................not a prob at all, even if indica dom, but sativas prefer 28-30c..............
you need to add to the RO an "Alkaline (Calcium carbonate) Ph Buffer" to the RO water to stabilize Ph, buffer it to 220ppm................................ pure RO in cocco will "Leach" from this highly alkaline substrate, which will rocket the Ph................... affecting nute uptake.......... as chart below; = "Soil"
better to use a 100mm small inline fan 185m3/hr 25w, ducted to thew top of the tent, to suck down to the floor the hot air collecting at the top of the cab.................... this mixes the hot upstairs with the cold air below on the floor....................... so the root ball matrix is "Kept Warm".....(@22c not hotter than 26c root ball)..............while co2 is also distributed to the plants on the floor............. a sensible use of electricity...........g/Per/Kw/used, is the key........
you need to keep your root temp at 71F minimum, lights out...................lights on you need to keep it in the range......78F to 86F as a max lights on................ handy in summer when hot............ bearing in mind, i am giving you the same advice as "WhiteLight" auto ok......... and he is in late flower at the mo............ so a good time to read the link i gave you above auto.........
you do not need to use cal/mag, at all, untill you witch to flower = "fems", or the flowers are 12mm across with automatics auto ok................. the reason is, the plant has no increased need for calcium carbonate (Cal) or magnesium in elevated levels, untill the flowering hormone "Ethylene" begins to raise the Ph of the medium during early fruitification........... you dont need it untill flowering has jusy begun ok.............
in addition, as flowering, all root building energy is redirected to flowering so stop using any root stims after flowering has started as it wont be used..................... use it "Upto" flowering........... you will never get a cal/mag deff in cocco !!...................as cocco is 80% alkaline substrate ! lol........... contains enough calcium carbonate to sink the bismark !!........ the one substrate you will never need a cal/mag buffer is cocco......
you need to soak the seedling pot to run off with a nute solution of 0.2Ec................. and make sure you have a root stim in there from day 1 of veg.........................stop it at flower...................rizotonic is the A1 of root stims......... nothing beats it............ large root ball = large yield simple but true.............. no massive root no massive drinking and nute sucking.....................
you dont use cal/mag in cocco's................ cocco is calcium rich !!
the bag say's its got CF = Ec = PPM @ "1.7" !!.................... that is a high EC for a pre nute medium ??............ most of that is the alkaline cocco salts showing up on the EC meter..................... the CF 1.7 is not necessarily "Nutrient" pre charge.......................... i would feed seedlings from day 1 to 20 on Ec 0.2 to 0.3 at Ph6.3.....................as nitrogen is taken up better at a lower Ph in veg................... as chart above............
Hope i haven't wasted 20 mins !!...................... i will drop back in and see what the king plus dose............. i would hang it................... "60cm" above the seedlings to stop them from "Stretching" badly............. due to low lumen leaf hit ok.................................60cm.....................if you want to stop the stretch, and have them falling over due to stretching there neck's for light power ok................... you cannot burn the plants with an led ok.................. not possible..................... you will need to add heat to the tent for proper culture of these "Tropical" plants................ tropics run at 28c................. most of the year !!................
good luck with the new light and the ghost and toothless alien !!.......... and the cocco.............. if the shit goes sideways in cocco it is difficult to recover................... here is an example of just that.................... a duff batch off cocco i managed to recover the grow, a friend of mine has, but nearly lost due to cocco inconsistency.....
read this it say's a million words..................... 'Cocco" !!.............. best to all ALR
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/teetee-goes-to-the-dark-side.69050/page-14#post-2096097
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/dp-ultimates-first.69904/page-26#post-2100871
Right lets get it said..............
not sure what you was using before, think it was a 400w HPS ??................... this is your first led grow right ??........ here is the rub re the 200 quid king plus......2000w ?/................ more like 400w if you add up the number of diodes at run wattage of "2w", as 5w diodes are run at 2w etc.............. 2000w is a bit excessive a claim......... but the true 400w it delivers is enough for your two plants pos 3 if one aint a "Monganoi".....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253978670287?ul_noapp=true
the king plus led diode spectrum "Manufacturer Chosen" =
vegetative and flowering stage: 410nm, 430~440nm, 450~475nm, 620~630nm, 650~670nm, White, IR(730nm) (It is hard to see clearly by eyes, very dim.Please don't think they are not working. Instead, it plays an very important role in the flowering and fruiting stages of plants.)
there are 2no "IR" & 2no "UV" diodes also............... this is a essential element, left out by most led manufacturers, who do not understand the daylight spectrum................. they just look at the "Color" spectrum and miss the two important diodes out !...................
so the unit gets a thumbs up from me, for that reason, the unit could perform, we will see......... for 200 quid from shenzeng in china.............. we will see........
= 196no diodes @2w = 392w of light power around 25,000 lumens............... should be enough lumen
but the first with led auto ??......................in that case in your tent you will have low heat issues, as the led will save 78% of electricity, but will remove 70% of the heat generated by the HPS.......................you will need to heat your tent, lights on and off, to get a good yield............ lights of minimum temp is 22c.............max lights on is 28c to 30c.....................not a prob at all, even if indica dom, but sativas prefer 28-30c..............
you need to add to the RO an "Alkaline (Calcium carbonate) Ph Buffer" to the RO water to stabilize Ph, buffer it to 220ppm................................ pure RO in cocco will "Leach" from this highly alkaline substrate, which will rocket the Ph................... affecting nute uptake.......... as chart below; = "Soil"
better to use a 100mm small inline fan 185m3/hr 25w, ducted to thew top of the tent, to suck down to the floor the hot air collecting at the top of the cab.................... this mixes the hot upstairs with the cold air below on the floor....................... so the root ball matrix is "Kept Warm".....(@22c not hotter than 26c root ball)..............while co2 is also distributed to the plants on the floor............. a sensible use of electricity...........g/Per/Kw/used, is the key........
you need to keep your root temp at 71F minimum, lights out...................lights on you need to keep it in the range......78F to 86F as a max lights on................ handy in summer when hot............ bearing in mind, i am giving you the same advice as "WhiteLight" auto ok......... and he is in late flower at the mo............ so a good time to read the link i gave you above auto.........
you do not need to use cal/mag, at all, untill you witch to flower = "fems", or the flowers are 12mm across with automatics auto ok................. the reason is, the plant has no increased need for calcium carbonate (Cal) or magnesium in elevated levels, untill the flowering hormone "Ethylene" begins to raise the Ph of the medium during early fruitification........... you dont need it untill flowering has jusy begun ok.............
in addition, as flowering, all root building energy is redirected to flowering so stop using any root stims after flowering has started as it wont be used..................... use it "Upto" flowering........... you will never get a cal/mag deff in cocco !!...................as cocco is 80% alkaline substrate ! lol........... contains enough calcium carbonate to sink the bismark !!........ the one substrate you will never need a cal/mag buffer is cocco......
you need to soak the seedling pot to run off with a nute solution of 0.2Ec................. and make sure you have a root stim in there from day 1 of veg.........................stop it at flower...................rizotonic is the A1 of root stims......... nothing beats it............ large root ball = large yield simple but true.............. no massive root no massive drinking and nute sucking.....................
you dont use cal/mag in cocco's................ cocco is calcium rich !!
the bag say's its got CF = Ec = PPM @ "1.7" !!.................... that is a high EC for a pre nute medium ??............ most of that is the alkaline cocco salts showing up on the EC meter..................... the CF 1.7 is not necessarily "Nutrient" pre charge.......................... i would feed seedlings from day 1 to 20 on Ec 0.2 to 0.3 at Ph6.3.....................as nitrogen is taken up better at a lower Ph in veg................... as chart above............
Hope i haven't wasted 20 mins !!...................... i will drop back in and see what the king plus dose............. i would hang it................... "60cm" above the seedlings to stop them from "Stretching" badly............. due to low lumen leaf hit ok.................................60cm.....................if you want to stop the stretch, and have them falling over due to stretching there neck's for light power ok................... you cannot burn the plants with an led ok.................. not possible..................... you will need to add heat to the tent for proper culture of these "Tropical" plants................ tropics run at 28c................. most of the year !!................
good luck with the new light and the ghost and toothless alien !!.......... and the cocco.............. if the shit goes sideways in cocco it is difficult to recover................... here is an example of just that.................... a duff batch off cocco i managed to recover the grow, a friend of mine has, but nearly lost due to cocco inconsistency.....
read this it say's a million words..................... 'Cocco" !!.............. best to all ALR
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/teetee-goes-to-the-dark-side.69050/page-14#post-2096097
Tyler_Durden88
It's all about the Trichomes
Not completely true Depending on nutrient line and coco brand calmag is almost always needed early on and even more than later on to fill the coco CE sites so it's not taking all the calmag from the base nutrients. That's why I reccomend a coco coir focused nutrient line or just add 50 ppm of calmag. No two grows are the same. What works for you might not work for somone else Everyone needs to find their own way. Us with more exsperience should give them some advice when needed and tips along along the way. I actually think fullauto245 is doing a awesome job and is ahead of the game for his second grow. He's ahead of where I was at my second grow that's for sure. And in the battle im doing hes actually my favorite to win even over guys like myself with more exspensive setups and more exsperience. My advice to him would be great work keep it up not pick apart little details from his post discouraging the obvious great work he's doing.
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Both grows with the same light. Thanks for the advice and kind words!
Tyler_Durden88
It's all about the Trichomes
I just say that you tagged me and quoted my posts sorry I didn't notice before I couldent make it through the endless nonsense that your saying. I'm not even gonna get into where and how your wrong on almost everything your saying bc most is common sense obviously your not as exsperience as you think you are. But outta respect for fullauto245 I won't start a argument on his thread and plus guys like you aren't even worth it.
Tyler_Durden88
It's all about the Trichomes
Dude do you really exspect me or anyone to actually read these giant posts you post. I know you are obviously a passionate grower and prolly have alot a knowledge but it comes off snobby and arrogant. You don't give advice you come in pick apart everyone's posts and take a few lines or one statement and pick it apart. You need to relax on the preaching. This is supposed to fun not a headache. This is exhausting. Ima go play 2k19 and smoke a blunt I advise you do the same.cocco is practically 100% calcium carbonate lol................ the largest alkaline base, in any grow medium.......
the cal/mag issue allway's throws up strong opinions, about it's use. The fact remains, if the grow conditions are managed from start to finish, biochemically, there should be no reason to address culture critical path nutrient deficiency's.............. deficiency's are created by a lack of supply of a nutrient element or environmental variations.............
i was just making a comment from experiences with, what is consider a medium, not really suited to canna culture............ essentially cocco is used, as it is cheap to produce............. from my experience it throws up more issues than not.................... a recent example is here......
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/teetee-goes-to-the-dark-side.69050/page-14#post-2096097
someone i taught to grow, from scratch, he uses cocco, as he cannot get organic mediums, out in the sticks in NSW queensland................ in the blog above, i had to rescue teetee grow of personal smokes, from "another" duff batch of cocco......... which was made with an exceedingly high alkaline content in the batch, then dispached........... with a very high Ph in the medium, which showed up in the run off, which caused the grow to throw phosphorus deficiency's.....(progressive yellowing of understory leaves & veins)..... if you take time to read the thread i linked Tyler brv, you will see that everything i said is fact ......................... it's my experienced opinion, i have no need to slate any one during the course of advice given.............
i just teach people how to do it properly,.......... i never recommend cocco as a grow medium,....to new or experienced culturists................ as it is problematic in many cases.......... inc the thread link above Tyler,..................... read it and return with your opinion, cal/mag "Was Not Used", or played any part in the grow recovery.................. the thread;
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/teetee-goes-to-the-dark-side.69050/page-14#post-2096097
hits your nail clean on the head................. just happened to be synchronized with this post................. i had to prescribe anion / cation exchange, to manage the Ph reductions, over time, in the cocco medium, to recover the yield of the teetee grow, that includes my "DesFran" strain !!..................... all did finish well after the re-alignment of the potential of hydrogen..................in the duff cocco batch he started with un-knowingly.
read the blog Tyler, not everything i say is wrong my fair man.......as a bachelor of science i should know some of it right............ALR = (B.Sc. 2.1)
here is the link to my current canna culture student, also i am taking him through his first ever grow experience, by chance, he had bad advice to add, highly alkaline "Lime" to his local bought organic compost, this made it very Ph un stable,............... so another set of prescriptions to combat high alkalinity therefore Ph in the grow medium, was needed.............. another grow recovery, orchestrated and guided, back to health by me, of little knowledge............... along with culture security factors in this grow also Tyler...................
read this blog, it could be beneficial >> "The WhiteLight's" recovery plan !!
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/dp-ultimates-first.69904/page-26#post-2101844
Ps; do you use cocco Tyler..................... ??...................... or do you use it and find it the best grow medium on the market ??............................ALR
thedailydose
is starting to get better at this..
thanks for the tag!! looking forward to see how big you get the girls this time 
are you using all 3 of the gh trio series or are you still running the lucas(ish) type of schedule? im curious to see if you have a set schedule that you follow. i just got done writing a lucas formula for my self that i would like to compare (and maybe use on my 2nd grow) if you dont mind sharing.
mine looks something like this (not even sure if its for soil/tap water lol)
week 1: water only
week 2-3: 2ml cal mag / 2ml micro / 4ml bloom
week 4-5: 2ml cal mag / 3ml micro / 6ml bloom
week 6+: 2ml cal mag / 4ml micro / 8ml bloom
are you using all 3 of the gh trio series or are you still running the lucas(ish) type of schedule? im curious to see if you have a set schedule that you follow. i just got done writing a lucas formula for my self that i would like to compare (and maybe use on my 2nd grow) if you dont mind sharing.
mine looks something like this (not even sure if its for soil/tap water lol)
week 1: water only
week 2-3: 2ml cal mag / 2ml micro / 4ml bloom
week 4-5: 2ml cal mag / 3ml micro / 6ml bloom
week 6+: 2ml cal mag / 4ml micro / 8ml bloom
Tyler_Durden88
It's all about the Trichomes
Do you adjust for strain and phenotype or do you run this for all the plants? I run up to 4 diffrent nutrient solutions bc they all eat diffrent.thanks for the tag!! looking forward to see how big you get the girls this time
are you using all 3 of the gh trio series or are you still running the lucas(ish) type of schedule? im curious to see if you have a set schedule that you follow. i just got done writing a lucas formula for my self that i would like to compare (and maybe use on my 2nd grow) if you dont mind sharing.
mine looks something like this (not even sure if its for soil/tap water lol)
week 1: water only
week 2-3: 2ml cal mag / 2ml micro / 4ml bloom
week 4-5: 2ml cal mag / 3ml micro / 6ml bloom
week 6+: 2ml cal mag / 4ml micro / 8ml bloom
thedailydose
is starting to get better at this..
hey @Tyler_Durden88 im just a noobie reading/taking notes and picking brains.
im still on my first grow and from the looks of it.. my SC seems to be the hungrier (leaves yellowing) girl compared to GSC when being fed the same strength. just taking it easy for now and taking notes on plant reactions
Tyler_Durden88
It's all about the Trichomes
Yea the GSC strains are usually light feeders compared to the others.
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