Foliar Sprays and PH

:toke:- have a look here....

It does, especially when using nutrients. other key additions include:

-- a wetting agent which will take the surface tension out of the soln. so it coats and sticks better, not just bead up... more area covered = more absorbed!
....It also kicks buggy asses because it penetrates their otherwise pretty waterproof bodies, aiding in both suffocating them and allowing the pesticide to get better direct contact...

-- get the undersides of the leaves too, more important than tops in fact because more stomata are located under the leaves vs. topside, and that the only way in usually.... do it during light hours when the stomata are open for bizz....

-- I highly recommend using fulvic acid when doing foliar,.... it plays well with most everything, chelates, and can be taken directly in (humic is too large a molecule) and used as a carbon source - :thumbsup:

-- use RO/Di water, or at least lower ppm water, not hard, stainy mineral saturated crap... Keep in mind that low ppm hardness water is very pH sensitive because the buffering mineral CaCO3 is removed from it... adjust carefully!
 
Quick question- do you ph your Foliar sprays or doesn’t it matter?

When in doubt, mimic nature. Unpolluted rainwater pH is around 5.6. Millions of years of evolution can't be that wrong. I'm sure there are studies out there that might prove certain pH is better for certain mineral uptake, but as a general rule of thumb that is what I go by. I foliar spray with several different thing, and always at this pH range without worrying.
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:toke:- have a look here....

It does, especially when using nutrients. other key additions include:

-- a wetting agent which will take the surface tension out of the soln. so it coats and sticks better, not just bead up... more area covered = more absorbed!
....It also kicks buggy asses because it penetrates their otherwise pretty waterproof bodies, aiding in both suffocating them and allowing the pesticide to get better direct contact...

-- get the undersides of the leaves too, more important than tops in fact because more stomata are located under the leaves vs. topside, and that the only way in usually.... do it during light hours when the stomata are open for bizz....

-- I highly recommend using fulvic acid when doing foliar,.... it plays well with most everything, chelates, and can be taken directly in (humic is too large a molecule) and used as a carbon source - :thumbsup:

-- use RO/Di water, or at least lower ppm water, not hard, stainy mineral saturated crap... Keep in mind that low ppm hardness water is very pH sensitive because the buffering mineral CaCO3 is removed from it... adjust carefully!
When in doubt, mimic nature. Unpolluted rainwater pH is around 5.6. Millions of years of evolution can't be that wrong. I'm sure there are studies out there that might prove certain pH is better for certain mineral uptake, but as a general rule of thumb that is what I go by. I foliar spray with several different thing, and always at this pH range without worrying.
_

Thanks guys, I thought I should ph but read on various other sites that you don’t need to. I have been spraying at about 6.5 with no obvious issues.
 
@Sleeper143 - 6.5 is perfectly fine, however if for example treating a deficiency, then it might make sense to pH to the proper range. I havent really looked into it
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@Sleeper143 - 6.5 is perfectly fine, however if for example treating a deficiency, then it might make sense to pH to the proper range. I havent really looked into it
_
Thanks, not spraying for deficiencies at the moment, just a light misting of alg-a-mic at lights off for now.
 
When in doubt, mimic nature. Unpolluted rainwater pH is around 5.6. Millions of years of evolution can't be that wrong. I'm sure there are studies out there that might prove certain pH is better for certain mineral uptake, but as a general rule of thumb that is what I go by. I foliar spray with several different thing, and always at this pH range without worrying.
_
Nice try connecting the two but almost every modern day grower, besides the ones without the means, tweak conditions/nutes/etc to get perfect growing conditions unobtainable by nature itself. Just because it works in nature doesn't mean it's the best way.
 
@WhitePowder - I said "When in doubt". Of course, for super performance we use all sorts of techniques that defy nature. Be it from chelated inputs, PGR, training plants, light schedules, environment etc. What I meant was not to blindly follow what nature does, just that when in doubt just do what nature does and 99% you'll be fine
_
 
Quick question- do you ph your Foliar sprays or doesn’t it matter?
When in doubt, mimic nature. Unpolluted rainwater pH is around 5.6. Millions of years of evolution can't be that wrong. I'm sure there are studies out there that might prove certain pH is better for certain mineral uptake, but as a general rule of thumb that is what I go by. I foliar spray with several different thing, and always at this pH range without worrying.
_
Nice try connecting the two but almost every modern day grower, besides the ones without the means, tweak conditions/nutes/etc to get perfect growing conditions unobtainable by nature itself. Just because it works in nature doesn't mean it's the best way.
:toke:- have a look here....

It does, especially when using nutrients. other key additions include:

-- a wetting agent which will take the surface tension out of the soln. so it coats and sticks better, not just bead up... more area covered = more absorbed!
....It also kicks buggy asses because it penetrates their otherwise pretty waterproof bodies, aiding in both suffocating them and allowing the pesticide to get better direct contact...

-- get the undersides of the leaves too, more important than tops in fact because more stomata are located under the leaves vs. topside, and that the only way in usually.... do it during light hours when the stomata are open for bizz....

-- I highly recommend using fulvic acid when doing foliar,.... it plays well with most everything, chelates, and can be taken directly in (humic is too large a molecule) and used as a carbon source - :thumbsup:

-- use RO/Di water, or at least lower ppm water, not hard, stainy mineral saturated crap... Keep in mind that low ppm hardness water is very pH sensitive because the buffering mineral CaCO3 is removed from it... adjust carefully!

I don't pH nothing 0 pH I use Rainwater like the man said it's got a great pH doesn't have any heavy chemicals in it no heavy metals no chlorine no fluoride it's just good old acid rain. nothing nut just off the roof of the house and into my rain collection system.

I make a tea and sprayed on my plants twice a week on the girls. I'm doing it right now just got done spraying the outside crop.
With this ( in pic ) started brewing yesterday and sprayed this morning. Spray 2 gallons as a foliar spray. Two and a half to three gallons left over in the five gallon bucket. I added some more water to that put the sock of T-mix back in the bucket with the bubblers and added some more fish poop to it and little bit more of the raw sugar and let that Brew until tomorrow morning where I'll water all of that to the plants giving them each about half a gallon each. And then I will give them all an additional gallon of straight rain water if needed. We did get a lot of rain here yesterday and they are covered but some of the plants get a little run off from the rooftop of the greenhouse. :smokeout:

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So I'm seem to do ok.
But as @Waira says there maybe something to it? I just do everything as close to Nature's I can get it and then I could tweak it a little bit this way or that way.
But you won't find me using any of Robert Santos bulshit or anybody else's chemicals on my stuff...
it just don't happen here .
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Past crops 2017
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2019
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:pass:
 
That is a mighty fine setup you've got there! Makes me very jelly :smoking: … hopefully this time next year I'll be setting up my first outdoor
_
 
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