Sleeper143
Cultivators Club
Quick question- do you ph your Foliar sprays or doesn’t it matter?
Quick question- do you ph your Foliar sprays or doesn’t it matter?
- have a look here....
It does, especially when using nutrients. other key additions include:
-- a wetting agent which will take the surface tension out of the soln. so it coats and sticks better, not just bead up... more area covered = more absorbed!
....It also kicks buggy asses because it penetrates their otherwise pretty waterproof bodies, aiding in both suffocating them and allowing the pesticide to get better direct contact...
-- get the undersides of the leaves too, more important than tops in fact because more stomata are located under the leaves vs. topside, and that the only way in usually.... do it during light hours when the stomata are open for bizz....
-- I highly recommend using fulvic acid when doing foliar,.... it plays well with most everything, chelates, and can be taken directly in (humic is too large a molecule) and used as a carbon source -
-- use RO/Di water, or at least lower ppm water, not hard, stainy mineral saturated crap... Keep in mind that low ppm hardness water is very pH sensitive because the buffering mineral CaCO3 is removed from it... adjust carefully!
When in doubt, mimic nature. Unpolluted rainwater pH is around 5.6. Millions of years of evolution can't be that wrong. I'm sure there are studies out there that might prove certain pH is better for certain mineral uptake, but as a general rule of thumb that is what I go by. I foliar spray with several different thing, and always at this pH range without worrying.
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Thanks, not spraying for deficiencies at the moment, just a light misting of alg-a-mic at lights off for now.@Sleeper143 - 6.5 is perfectly fine, however if for example treating a deficiency, then it might make sense to pH to the proper range. I havent really looked into it
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Nice try connecting the two but almost every modern day grower, besides the ones without the means, tweak conditions/nutes/etc to get perfect growing conditions unobtainable by nature itself. Just because it works in nature doesn't mean it's the best way.When in doubt, mimic nature. Unpolluted rainwater pH is around 5.6. Millions of years of evolution can't be that wrong. I'm sure there are studies out there that might prove certain pH is better for certain mineral uptake, but as a general rule of thumb that is what I go by. I foliar spray with several different thing, and always at this pH range without worrying.
_
Quick question- do you ph your Foliar sprays or doesn’t it matter?
When in doubt, mimic nature. Unpolluted rainwater pH is around 5.6. Millions of years of evolution can't be that wrong. I'm sure there are studies out there that might prove certain pH is better for certain mineral uptake, but as a general rule of thumb that is what I go by. I foliar spray with several different thing, and always at this pH range without worrying.
_
Nice try connecting the two but almost every modern day grower, besides the ones without the means, tweak conditions/nutes/etc to get perfect growing conditions unobtainable by nature itself. Just because it works in nature doesn't mean it's the best way.
- have a look here....
It does, especially when using nutrients. other key additions include:
-- a wetting agent which will take the surface tension out of the soln. so it coats and sticks better, not just bead up... more area covered = more absorbed!
....It also kicks buggy asses because it penetrates their otherwise pretty waterproof bodies, aiding in both suffocating them and allowing the pesticide to get better direct contact...
-- get the undersides of the leaves too, more important than tops in fact because more stomata are located under the leaves vs. topside, and that the only way in usually.... do it during light hours when the stomata are open for bizz....
-- I highly recommend using fulvic acid when doing foliar,.... it plays well with most everything, chelates, and can be taken directly in (humic is too large a molecule) and used as a carbon source -
-- use RO/Di water, or at least lower ppm water, not hard, stainy mineral saturated crap... Keep in mind that low ppm hardness water is very pH sensitive because the buffering mineral CaCO3 is removed from it... adjust carefully!