First Organic 'biobizz' Northern Lights Auto grow...NOT healthy girls!

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Thai? grown from bagseed from Thailand (Sativa Dom)
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Hi....I hope the info below is enough...if anything else is needed please let me know.. thanks in advance

Problem: tops thin and twisted lime green, drooping allover, mainly bottom but spreading allover red stemmed fan leaves yellowing with brown patches - dieing (clawed leaves from earlier overfeed)

Medium/grow method: biobizz light mix, 3gallon fabric smart pots hand watered 4-5l between both plants usually every 3days depending on how dry/light the pots are

Feed: and supplements used: biobizz grow/bloom/top max, epsom salts...1ml/l grow since start of 3rd week, following week grow/bloom/top all at 1ml/l then the smallest of the 2 got clawed and burnt tips so backed off down to half strength..last feed 3days ago was back to 1ml/l of each..epsom added at 1tsp/4l with last feed

water source: (hard) tap 7.8 cider vinegar used to ph-

Strain/age: Northern Lights Auto from RQS, 34 days old from breaking soil

light used: 400w dual hps switched to 600w at preflower (due to keeping temps up In garage mainly after cold spell) was at 18" raised to 24" yesterday

Climate: temps fluctuates between 70-80.. rh 40-55

Additional info: hope this all makes sense...I'm not the best at explaining clearly.. :shrug: anyway =
It seemed to start after the first feed slightly but got worse after the bloom/top max nutes were added to feed... I've grown before with same batch of seeds but with led' and not organically, without any issues at all.

I presoaked my biobizz soil with ph'd water but I'd used chemical ph- then read that can kill microherds in the soil so I emailed biobizz who said...

Thanks for contacting us and welcome in the world of organic gardening J.

First of all, when growing organic, you don’t need to measure the EC and pH value like you would when using a mineral medium. Biobizz products only contain natural organic elements, giving them a very low Electrical Conductivity (EC) value. And while the organic elements can’t be measured, they do have a self-regulating system, which helps maintain the pH values at the correct level.
So, under normal circumstances, pH correcting is not required. Biobizz products have a low pH. When you mix them with water, they will lower the pH naturally. Afterwards, the organic material enters the soil, where it starts to decompose. This is also a natural process and guarantees a naturally occurring pH level in the soil of 6,2. And that is just spot on.
Nevertheless, there are always exceptions of course. For example if the water you´re using is very hard or soft. Measuring = knowing.
If the pH goes below 6,0, it means the organic material is no longer assimilated correctly and either you suffer from deficiency or overdosage of a sudden release of too much fertilizer. In that case some Epsom Salt halfway through the flowering circle might do the trick.
If the pH is higher than 7,0 after mixing, you can use more natural sources like Dolomite lime, apple vinegar or citric acid to adjust the pH. We do not recommend to use a chemical pH up or down, because (like you already said) it might kill some of the microbes in the soil. So, don't fiddle around with the pH of the water too much! Only adjust it when it is really, really necessary. If the pH is 6,2 -or a bit higher, up to 7,0- you have to do nothing. Let the soil work its magic!
In your case, I think there were still enough nutrients in the soil for your seedlings. So I’d just continue. You can consider (if you have it) to add Alg-a-Mic to every watering. This will 'destress' them and keep them 'zen' .
For growing auto’s there are some thing you have to keep in mind. Overfeeding autoflower plants is the most common beginner grower’s mistake. You can overfeed and not even know that you are harming until it is too late ;).
For autoflower you can also use our grow schedule, the easiest way to use Biobizz is to grow in Light-Mix, but to follow dosages for All-Mix. This way you can control the NPK's better, by using liquid products. The key to working with autoflowers is to ensure a low Nitrogen level at all times. Too much nitrogen and your plants won't flower ;). Here some more precise info that might come in handy:


1: Germinate the seeds

2: Plant them in Light-Mix

3: For the first week, you can use some Root-Juice and/or Acti-Vera to help boost the growing process ( 1-2ml per liter), but it is not necessary.

4: After two weeks, start with 1ml of Bio-grow or Fish-Mix (1ml per liter maximum!) and continue with Root-juice and/or Acti-Vera ( 2-3ml per liter ). Make sure not to give too much Fish-mix when your auto’s are not flowering yet! Too much Nitrogen and they will not flower!

5: From the moment your plants start to flower, continue with Bio-grow or Fish-mix (1 ml per liter ) and start adding Bio-Bloom, Top-max and if you please Bio-Heaven at 1ml per liter.

6: Every week you increase the dosages of Bio-Bloom, Top-Max and Bio-Heaven with 1ml per liter to a maximum of 4-5ml per liter. Take it easy, too much nutrients will kill your plants. It won´t die from too less nutrients.

7: Respect one week of flushing before harvesting. So one week before the plants are finished, stop using all Biobizz products and feed only with plenty of water

Kind regards,


Team Biobizz.

Knowing that autos are lighter feeders, after seeing clawing/yellowing tips following first bloom/top feed I halved the feed but have since upped it back to 1ml/l of each on last feed (plus epsom) but no signs of any improvements the plants have got worse as time goes on! I flushed one of the plants 5 days ago but no change with that...
I also have roots growing from the base of both pots not sure if that's an issue?
Ive added photos the best I can atm but will take some in better light as soon as possible but can say they are light green compared to prev led grow and new growth is lime coloured with yellow tips on most of it
?
Thanks for reading all of this even if you can't help out any :d5::thanks:
 
Just wanted to add I'm definitely not under/over watering and I think I've got more than one issue going on...
The light is brand new and I think the droop really started when I switched to 600w hence why I raised it yesterday. ..could that cause the drooping?
 
:toke: Grey'-- can you get me pics with normal light please, HPS color rendering is lousy for diagnostics,.. reading colors is a big clue often,... given what you said about the lights, they might have been too close and were getting slow-cooked, just short of outright burning, but plenty intense enough to cause stress,... given the mildness of the nutes/soil/dosages, dosages and being organic, this probably isn't an overfeeding issue,.. if the lights are too close, it put transpiration stress on the leaves, which can lead to a variety of issues,... Everything they said to you is solid advise! Only other possibility is that the actual in-pot pH has gone way off,.. what you put in doesn't dictate what the pH is going to be at in there over time; there are too many other pH influencing factors in play,...if the pH is off, then nutrients are being locked out,... And it could be both things too! ..... problem is how to get an in-pot pH taken... likely you don't have a soil pH probe (meters are for liquids only), so you may have to do the iffy run-off method,... we have an improved protocol here, in the highlighted section above this one... a very crude run-off test can be done by using water only, and collecting it from a clean saucer,... it may at least tell us if pH is a probable cause... if it comes out in the low 5's pH for example, that's not a reliable true pH but is sure says it's too acidic in there!
 
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