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what soil r they in and how old r they?
First grow, looking for a little help.
- Thread starter Chad Wilson
- Start date
They are in Pro-mix HP with worm castings and perlite added. 3 weeks old
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Total noob here myself, ive also got a white widow going.
Ive been watering my 31 day old white widow with 1 liter every other day which has been good but that might be too much water for seedlings. I watered 250ml, to 500ml at a time, every 2-3 days the first couple weeks.
My widow grew real janky in her 2nd week but shes sorta recovered now. Hopefully your babies pick up and take off!
Ive been watering my 31 day old white widow with 1 liter every other day which has been good but that might be too much water for seedlings. I watered 250ml, to 500ml at a time, every 2-3 days the first couple weeks.
My widow grew real janky in her 2nd week but shes sorta recovered now. Hopefully your babies pick up and take off!
Is that a 5 gal bucket? It looks good, growing out its roots i reckon
Note; These comments are from my own experiences, over 10yr, growing Dutch Passion Large Fruits, although experiences are, and have, and will be in the future, generally proven through trial and error and omitting bad product from that experience, otherwise, the benefit of these experiences would not be offered as growing advice, and guidance, and i stand by every piece of guidance given.
Chad hi mate,.............. co canna consorta !.......... hope you get these Dames across the finish line in one piece !.............. i am more than sure you will, with the help on here you have at your helm ok.......... here are a few things i spotted from your txt post and write up ok................... just remember i said them, you might thank me for the insight one of these late flowering days, you have a head of you............... here are my initial findings...
it says the promix, the HP not the BX or BRK is Ph5.5 to 5.8.................... thats a bit low for an organic, or soil grow............... but no biggie there..............
promix HP site txt
With its high perlite content, PRO-MIX HP provides a great growing environment to growers looking for a significant drainage capacity, increased air porosity and lower water retention. The added benefit of fibrous peat moss and coarse perlite makes this formulation ideal for growers who require a superior-quality product adapted to their needs for watering flexibility and crop seasonality.
so we start at Ph5.8 chad......................... do you have a "Ph Pen" / hand held Ph meter ?/........... and EC or TDS pen ?/ both are the same thing...... if you do get a 2 coffee cup volume of the promix, in a small pot and pour into it water @23c Ph'ed to 6.0........................run the water through the soil in pot untill you get 100ml 10 deciltre of "Run Off" water" ok.......................... take the Ph of the run off water................. if above 5.8 upto 6.8 you should be ok.......................
adding "Acidic" worm castings "Pure Nitrogen".......................will drop the soil Ph even further chad ok, after you have wetted it......................... you wont need to add worm castings, as the if you did, thre manufactureres would of added it right ??......... adding a lot of worm casting to the promix will turn it acidic = dropping the soil Ph......... this can lead to nutrient uptake being interfered with, iehter with Ph below 5.5 or above 7.2......two good things with promix mycorrhizae fungi in it............ and it has peat in it also..............
here is a Ph to nute uptake range chart............. showing at what Ph'es nute deffs can begin at ok............
you need to keep the soil Ph and the watering feed water Ph between 5.8 and 6.8 in soil ok......... starting with seedlings feed at 6.3 and final flower Ph of 6.8 to 7.0..........
you can see above how the phosphorus (Important mobile macro nutrient), begins to wain off (Phos Bar Narrows Above) at a Ph below '6.0"....................... you see my point right.................the first sign of phos deff is the "Whole" leaf, lower leaves first begins to go yellow...........
you give no "L:ights Out Temp" chad ??..........................you want to be at 26c lights on, and 24c lights of.................i can tell by the high relative humidity "RH".............that the lights out temperature is very low........... you need to heat the space with a 1kw heater set to go off at 24-26c..................during lights out chad. The reason is RH control, and the "Grow Medium" temperature lights out and on !! RH above 68% will drop the carbon filter efficacy in percentiles ok.................above 80 only 40% of the filter will work properly, as pores block with moisture...... ensure your grow medium temp is never lower than 21c ok...........for best nute assimilation..................therefore your feed water needs to "MATCH" the soil temp yes !1.............. warm it with a kettle to the same temp as the soil.................. use one of these bits of cheap kit..... hand held infra red thermometer = +- 1c.....................handy and cheap, many uses water, light temp, soil temp, temp at top of cab, temp at bottom of cab, 1kw heater temp off and on...................long list right........ 12 quid your in...
the "single" 200w led will not heat the space or maintain the correct grow temp 26c light on 24c light off.........
chad its a "CRI 80" led that means it is metal halide spectrum that is veg only led ok................. that means is has only blue spectrum in the led light spread....... it a high bay light................. not really meant for crop growing,............. as its single light spectrum blue white......CRI 80 is in the 400nm to 480nm "Veg Range"... for flowering you need a light that delivers a range 700nm to 400nm............. as below
you say your tent is, Growing white widow autos in a 36x20x60 tent..................inches yea 36" wide, 20" depth (Front To back) then 60" tall / height yea ??.............. if so its enough room for 2no plants............. and i recommend you get a 125mm duct size extractor fan and carbon filter, which will cope with a 400w "Duel Spectrum" HPS lamp and balast, as you would need at least 4no CRI80's to finish 2 plants in that size tent ok. the 200w samsung was 120 quid ??................. if you can run to a decent led, then i recommend it..... the "Skyline Mk2 400"...................... plus you need to heat the tent lights out...................the 400 will heat it lights on ok................ if not go 400w duel spectrum HPS for now ok.................
feed seedlings at Ec 0.3 as promix has no pre nite that i can see from txt etc................. here is a link from a guy WhiteLight" who i taught from stractch, on his first grow,................... he is at day 85 right now chad............. have a read, lot of pointers in there ok.......................it's a live grow at the mo...................best of luck with the grow....... ok....................heres the link to white'tys first grow..... ALR
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/dp-ultimates-first.69904/page-28
Chad hi mate,.............. co canna consorta !.......... hope you get these Dames across the finish line in one piece !.............. i am more than sure you will, with the help on here you have at your helm ok.......... here are a few things i spotted from your txt post and write up ok................... just remember i said them, you might thank me for the insight one of these late flowering days, you have a head of you............... here are my initial findings...
it says the promix, the HP not the BX or BRK is Ph5.5 to 5.8.................... thats a bit low for an organic, or soil grow............... but no biggie there..............
promix HP site txt
With its high perlite content, PRO-MIX HP provides a great growing environment to growers looking for a significant drainage capacity, increased air porosity and lower water retention. The added benefit of fibrous peat moss and coarse perlite makes this formulation ideal for growers who require a superior-quality product adapted to their needs for watering flexibility and crop seasonality.
so we start at Ph5.8 chad......................... do you have a "Ph Pen" / hand held Ph meter ?/........... and EC or TDS pen ?/ both are the same thing...... if you do get a 2 coffee cup volume of the promix, in a small pot and pour into it water @23c Ph'ed to 6.0........................run the water through the soil in pot untill you get 100ml 10 deciltre of "Run Off" water" ok.......................... take the Ph of the run off water................. if above 5.8 upto 6.8 you should be ok.......................
adding "Acidic" worm castings "Pure Nitrogen".......................will drop the soil Ph even further chad ok, after you have wetted it......................... you wont need to add worm castings, as the if you did, thre manufactureres would of added it right ??......... adding a lot of worm casting to the promix will turn it acidic = dropping the soil Ph......... this can lead to nutrient uptake being interfered with, iehter with Ph below 5.5 or above 7.2......two good things with promix mycorrhizae fungi in it............ and it has peat in it also..............
here is a Ph to nute uptake range chart............. showing at what Ph'es nute deffs can begin at ok............
you need to keep the soil Ph and the watering feed water Ph between 5.8 and 6.8 in soil ok......... starting with seedlings feed at 6.3 and final flower Ph of 6.8 to 7.0..........
you can see above how the phosphorus (Important mobile macro nutrient), begins to wain off (Phos Bar Narrows Above) at a Ph below '6.0"....................... you see my point right.................the first sign of phos deff is the "Whole" leaf, lower leaves first begins to go yellow...........
you give no "L:ights Out Temp" chad ??..........................you want to be at 26c lights on, and 24c lights of.................i can tell by the high relative humidity "RH".............that the lights out temperature is very low........... you need to heat the space with a 1kw heater set to go off at 24-26c..................during lights out chad. The reason is RH control, and the "Grow Medium" temperature lights out and on !! RH above 68% will drop the carbon filter efficacy in percentiles ok.................above 80 only 40% of the filter will work properly, as pores block with moisture...... ensure your grow medium temp is never lower than 21c ok...........for best nute assimilation..................therefore your feed water needs to "MATCH" the soil temp yes !1.............. warm it with a kettle to the same temp as the soil.................. use one of these bits of cheap kit..... hand held infra red thermometer = +- 1c.....................handy and cheap, many uses water, light temp, soil temp, temp at top of cab, temp at bottom of cab, 1kw heater temp off and on...................long list right........ 12 quid your in...
the "single" 200w led will not heat the space or maintain the correct grow temp 26c light on 24c light off.........
chad its a "CRI 80" led that means it is metal halide spectrum that is veg only led ok................. that means is has only blue spectrum in the led light spread....... it a high bay light................. not really meant for crop growing,............. as its single light spectrum blue white......CRI 80 is in the 400nm to 480nm "Veg Range"... for flowering you need a light that delivers a range 700nm to 400nm............. as below
you say your tent is, Growing white widow autos in a 36x20x60 tent..................inches yea 36" wide, 20" depth (Front To back) then 60" tall / height yea ??.............. if so its enough room for 2no plants............. and i recommend you get a 125mm duct size extractor fan and carbon filter, which will cope with a 400w "Duel Spectrum" HPS lamp and balast, as you would need at least 4no CRI80's to finish 2 plants in that size tent ok. the 200w samsung was 120 quid ??................. if you can run to a decent led, then i recommend it..... the "Skyline Mk2 400"...................... plus you need to heat the tent lights out...................the 400 will heat it lights on ok................ if not go 400w duel spectrum HPS for now ok.................
feed seedlings at Ec 0.3 as promix has no pre nite that i can see from txt etc................. here is a link from a guy WhiteLight" who i taught from stractch, on his first grow,................... he is at day 85 right now chad............. have a read, lot of pointers in there ok.......................it's a live grow at the mo...................best of luck with the grow....... ok....................heres the link to white'tys first grow..... ALR
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/dp-ultimates-first.69904/page-28
Too much water water once a week
Whitetrash
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If I may add my 2 cents. In my opinion. Things are goin as planned. Most of the growth is happening below soil at this point. If you check with the brand of light you have they should have a chart to explain optimum light height for the different stages. Also and this is just my opinion. Keep your humidity in the 60s during veg. Seedlings and clones like higher humidity. Cheers!!
i think i scared the shit right out of Chads, chadley's........... or he is digesting it, applying the advice, and having a mega grow result right now !!!!!!!!!!!! ALR
Whitetrash
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That's alot of info to take it lol!!
It was definitely a lot of info to digest lol. Very helpful though. They are still growing, leaves still look the same. I didn’t water for about a week, leaves where starting to get a little crispy feeling but still nice and green. Water a small amount last night so I will see how they react over the next few days.
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