Coco is the medium where one normally doesn't check runoff. Soil grows you check runoff.
..other way around mate! -- see below....
I have been under the impression that your feed pH as well as runoff pH is one of the most important pieces to do correctly. I have read that if your pH is not in the correct range for your medium, uptake of certain nutrients will fail. I saw a post on a forum that said your feed and runoff pH don't matter if you're growing in soil because the soil will buffer and correct the pH. Is this accurate?
:smoking: Ok now we can get back to bizz here,...
-- yes, pH going in matters hugely! True soils ( a mix of various organic and non-organic/minerals components) will have a lime source mixed in to help buffer pH (CaCO3, MgCO3 to a much lesser extent), plus the
potential of what the soil microbes can help with. However, it's the carbonate (CO3- -) that's involved directly with pH buffering only... Have a look in the Infirmary forum at the Sticky articles on top and look at the Quick & Dirty Defc. Pic Depot, 2nd page toward the bottom to see the various charts, graphs and such that help explain all this some,... pH'ing beforehand helps take the burden off the soil itself to deal with pH adjusting, which has limitations in it's capacity to do so,... The plant itself plus the other biological activity in there is also a significant influencing factor on pH....
As for run-off testing of pH in soil, it's inherently inferior for many reasons and results are not to be trusted as accurate actual in-pot pH. Nothing is better than direct measuring with a good pH probe/meter (technically, meters are for liquids only, but advert's don't follow that!).... There is an "improved" r-o testing method in that same section BTW, read up on that too! It can give a rough estimate
if done right,... The main problem is this: consider the analogy of a cone type coffee filter and the pot of soil itself; as you pour water above, it dissolves and carries away more and more soluble nutes as it goes down, becoming more and more concentrated as it does,... by the time it reaches the bottom as run off, it's far more loaded than anywhere else in that pot with stuff, which potentially skews the pH results badly... if you use a feed solution or even hard/pH adjusted water, it will skew results as well.... Also, the actual pH in-pot will vary some in and out of the root zone, because all the uptake/exchange and biological activity going on there... So, in a real pinch, r-o can be used to get a crude measurement of pH, but there are many sources of error in this method, including "user" error!
As mentioned by others, some soils, like TLO/LOS (true living organic/living organic), if they are the real deal and functioning rightly, pH adjusting inputs and in-pot monitoring are not needed as much if at all,.... *(well, in-pot monitoring should happen regardless IMO, because "organic" is not a panacea against potential off-pH from happening).... Only if you have very hard water, massive CaCO3 loads, is it wise to adjust or better yet, use a better water source.. Cumulative mineral build-up can cause issues down the road....
** BTW: You pH meter needs to be well cared for, or it'll give inaccurate results... proper storage solution, rinsing, and calibrating are musts or you risk getting bad readings and missing something or making matter worse not better!
Then we have so called "soilless" mediums, Pro Mix, Sunshine #4, and coco.... These are very simple mediums, first two are peat based with some lime to help buffer; coco is usually used straight, maybe inert perlite, and on occasion, some blends with other organic stuff (Royal Gold Tupur is an amended coco)... the peat stuff can be used more or less the same way as soil, but it needs feeds and supplements right away since it's devoid of nutrients, same goes for coco... However, coco is a very specialized medium with several unique properties and a lot of do's and don't's compared to peat based soilless and true soils! It's really meant to be used as a sort of hydro medium, because of it's superior water holding and draining ability... it also has a lot of fussy aspects because of it's peculiar cation exchange capacity (CEC), and this is why it's the #1 problem medium I see in Sick Bay, almost always because peep's are running it like true soil... Coco works best being feed often, with about 20% r-o each time, and never ever water alone... This is the "hydro-like" aspect of it's behavior... As it drains, it takes away excess nute salts and restores proper balances of nutes in the pot, plus is draws in fresh air as it does so... This in part is why one can grow monsters in smaller volume pots, better than anything else!
Now the bitchy parts: coco is a major Ca++ hog, Mg++ to a lesser extent... it will bind them to the particle surfaces strongly enough to keep it from the roots unless the coco is in a state of saturation, a form of buffering (not pH here), then it gives/takes as it should... this is why elevated Ca-Mg inputs are needed with coco... Straight water can mess this CEC action up. As for r-o, in coco you take pH and TDS/EC readings going in, AND coming out to monitor both pH and to see if there's any overload of nute salts in there, hence the high volume of r-o,...
If you run soil, do yourself a big favor and get some kind of quality soil pH probe... Avoid those cheapo skinny probes, multi- test units, etc., they all suck! For the money, the Accurate 8 soil pH probe is a solid choice. mine has served me very well for years now...
.... there are other brands selling the exact same unit under a different name too... Otherwise, a more $ unit operating entirely differently can be bought, like Blue Labs one; this is basically a modified pH meter with an electrode bulb, and needs the same PITA care that a regular pH meter does,... very accurate, but you don't need pH accuracy in the +/- 0.01 range frankly!