Deficiency in early flower?

I certainly don't want to be at odds with you here but those affected leaves are fading which indicates to me that the plant is stealing mobile nutes from them to continue it's rapid growth and bud development at this stage of flowering.

A medium dose of bloom nutes low or without N I think would stop the progression of the symptoms. Perfect time for 0-15-35 AN Big Bud! :) I feed BB to my plants a week before flipping to flower then more at the flip and on for a few weeks.

:peace:

i just fed a tablespoon of coast of Maine fish bone meal (dry amendment) a couple days ago.

I have another of the same strain (Nurple Autoflower by Binary Selections) same medium and same feedings and the N toxicity is MUCH worse.


I also have some bottles of GH flora series but I was hoping to stay organic for this one. I think my mistake was doing the entire container in FFOF, when I should’ve just done the bottom third or fourth and the rest something lighter.

i just hope the N toxicity in my other plant doesn’t ruin the flower period.
 
Bone meal is very slow to break down so the plant can feed off it and also needs a healthy, active bio-herd in the soil to do the work of breaking it down. Bone meal is best mixed up in your favourite soil mix and allowed to 'cook' for at least a month before using it for plants. If you're wanting to grow organic you should be recycling your soil blends too as they do get better with age so you just have to add various amendments like bone meal to them for each cycle. I've been mostly a hydro guy the last 20 years and couldn't grow worth a damn in dirt but have been gradually going organic with good results as I learn more about how the whole bio thing fits together.

My 2nd outdoor grow with autos is 95% organics only and doing damn fine if I do say so myself. About 2 or 3 weeks to go with the nice ones there. Mazarilla auto fem by Urban Legends all 3 on the right side. Big one in the centre and the little one on the left are a hi-CBD, almost 0 THC strain called Dragon Tongue but disappointing yields so won't grow them again.

RainyGroupShot01.JPG


A day shot from the front after removing the tarp. The 3 Mazarilla in front. The one in the pot is such a different pheno from it's sisters but has that happy Mazar buzz I've been craving.

RainyGroupShot02.JPG


Short but sweet! :)

:peace:
 
Bone meal is very slow to break down so the plant can feed off it and also needs a healthy, active bio-herd in the soil to do the work of breaking it down. Bone meal is best mixed up in your favourite soil mix and allowed to 'cook' for at least a month before using it for plants. If you're wanting to grow organic you should be recycling your soil blends too as they do get better with age so you just have to add various amendments like bone meal to them for each cycle. I've been mostly a hydro guy the last 20 years and couldn't grow worth a damn in dirt but have been gradually going organic with good results as I learn more about how the whole bio thing fits together.

My 2nd outdoor grow with autos is 95% organics only and doing damn fine if I do say so myself. About 2 or 3 weeks to go with the nice ones there. Mazarilla auto fem by Urban Legends all 3 on the right side. Big one in the centre and the little one on the left are a hi-CBD, almost 0 THC strain called Dragon Tongue but disappointing yields so won't grow them again.


A day shot from the front after removing the tarp. The 3 Mazarilla in front. The one in the pot is such a different pheno from it's sisters but has that happy Mazar buzz I've been craving.



Short but sweet! :)

:peace:


damn, so basically when these guys are done the phosphorous will just start to be available? I really didn’t research the whole dry amendment thing well enough before doing this grow, lol.

so if the P deficiency doesn’t get better in a week or so I should just start using liquid nutes at low strength ?

Also, nice grows! Looking great
 
Forgot to mention but I don't see N-Tox in those pics you've posted. Zero tip burn and that's always been the first sign of it in my grows then edges start burning on their tips. Not always with clawing but bad N-Tox usually shows that.

It honestly doesn't look like anything horrible but it is a bit of a critical time in the flowering stage and nor when you want things screwing up on you.

:peace:
 
Forgot to mention but I don't see N-Tox in those pics you've posted. Zero tip burn and that's always been the first sign of it in my grows then edges start burning on their tips. Not always with clawing but bad N-Tox usually shows that.

It honestly doesn't look like anything horrible but it is a bit of a critical time in the flowering stage and nor when you want things screwing up on you.

:peace:

here are the girls with N tox:

BE3F23E9-D10C-4679-94F8-3BE322EB276F.jpeg
EE5314F7-0E72-4FBA-A1BB-2148B28D2F9E.jpeg
120948C7-6776-4128-A6A3-3CF2CD4D543C.jpeg
 
damn, so basically when these guys are done the phosphorous will just start to be available? I really didn’t research the whole dry amendment thing well enough before doing this grow, lol.

so if the P deficiency doesn’t get better in a week or so I should just start using liquid nutes at low strength ?

Also, nice grows! Looking great

Give it a week and if things are getting worse as in you're getting more of those bad patches or they are enlarging then I'd give a good dose of your Bloom and even some Micro.

The way I do mine with AN 3-part indoors is a week before I flip I Feed a half strength dose of all 3 parts. 2ml/L of each and a half dose of p/k tehn the other half of the p/k at the flip for the next watering. If I see any yellowing starting in the big fans I'll up the dosage a bit but if they are shooting up and looking happy I might just use water when near dry or a lighter feed. Maybe just some silica in the water. After the stretch I switch to feeding Lucas Formula style and use Big Bud instead of p/K as they want more K and less P now 'til the end. More Mg, and S too. Not so much calcium so Epsom Salts works well here.

That soil you're using will need stuff added by the time you want to flower and using some of your GH nutes isn't going to hurt anything and works very fast but I'd go with 1ml/L of the Bloom when and if you do decide to try boosting the K but if fading persists then add some micro at the same rate with more bloom.

here are the girls with N tox:

Those are just the little bud leaves and they almost always go like that in my experience. N-Tox shows like that all over the plants. They only have one finger each but they aren't re-vegging tho are they.

One sign does not indicate a deficiency. Diagnosing plant problems is like being a detective at times. I'll post you a good chart with all sorts of clues on it that really helps me zero in on any problems with my plants. Copy it to your device for sure. Free pot books here too.

And here I thought there was something to worry about. ;)

CervantesNutrientChart.jpg

And another similar one.

cannabis-nutrient-deficiencies-and-excesses-chart.jpg

:peace:
 
Give it a week and if things are getting worse as in you're getting more of those bad patches or they are enlarging then I'd give a good dose of your Bloom and even some Micro.

The way I do mine with AN 3-part indoors is a week before I flip I Feed a half strength dose of all 3 parts. 2ml/L of each and a half dose of p/k tehn the other half of the p/k at the flip for the next watering. If I see any yellowing starting in the big fans I'll up the dosage a bit but if they are shooting up and looking happy I might just use water when near dry or a lighter feed. Maybe just some silica in the water. After the stretch I switch to feeding Lucas Formula style and use Big Bud instead of p/K as they want more K and less P now 'til the end. More Mg, and S too. Not so much calcium so Epsom Salts works well here.

That soil you're using will need stuff added by the time you want to flower and using some of your GH nutes isn't going to hurt anything and works very fast but I'd go with 1ml/L of the Bloom when and if you do decide to try boosting the K but if fading persists then add some micro at the same rate with more bloom.



Those are just the little bud leaves and they almost always go like that in my experience. N-Tox shows like that all over the plants. They only have one finger each but they aren't re-vegging tho are they.

One sign does not indicate a deficiency. Diagnosing plant problems is like being a detective at times. I'll post you a good chart with all sorts of clues on it that really helps me zero in on any problems with my plants. Copy it to your device for sure. Free pot books here too.

And here I thought there was something to worry about. ;)

View attachment 1357598

And another similar one.

View attachment 1357599

:peace:

thanks for those pics! One of the leaves is almost completely dried up now:

FCF203FE-AEE1-462D-9044-B538722EFB97.jpeg
14C8472C-BF39-462B-B407-663FC86E0AE4.jpeg
 
Should have listened to MOG
Way too hot in that soil...

kind of weird though that one plant actually has deficiencies in the same exact soil that’s “too hot”

only difference is the one with deficiency is in fabric container.
 
Back
Top