New Grower Blue Mystic AF Rook

Flowering can be induced whenever you choose. I shoot for the start of week 5 for 10-week autos, those babies get huge. Others wait for the end of stretch and the appearance of pistils.
 
Hey Rookie, good luck! I will be paying attention to your nutes talk a bit myself because I'm running the same stuff - difference is I'm using FFOF soil, so I won't add anything for awhile. Also, for that tent size I don't think you need bigger than a 4in inline fan. I'm using a 4" Hurricane that's 171 CFM with a 4" x 12" Phresh filter that's rated to 200 CFM. To be honest, I mostly have it as a scent killer when the time comes. I have the ability to keep my area and tent pretty open and well ventilated. When the scent comes I'll tighten it up.

Definitely think hard on an AutoCob the next go around. 1-2 for 1-2 plants I'd say.
 
Flowering can be induced whenever you choose. I shoot for the start of week 5 for 10-week autos, those babies get huge. Others wait for the end of stretch and the appearance of pistils.

Noob question, how to you induce flowering in an Auto? I thought we move at the pace of the Auto programming - reactionary as opposed to proactionary.
 
Thanks for the suggestions jingo.

Yeah I plan on going the led route in the future. My space is way too small for hid. But I did want to chat about nutes though...I've been giving PHd nutrient water every other day (1/4 gallon H2O, 2ml calmag, 2tsp big bloom and 4 ml grow big since week 2.5)...the other days she's getting PHd water/calmag (1/4 gallon, 2ml calmag)...pH has maintain in the 5.3-6.1 range. Not sure when to start tiger bloom though? I wanted to push veg another week with grow big before I move over to tiger... suggestions?

I def get less than 15% runoff...should I use more water? I've noticed she's drinking a ton now too (Week 4 starts Saturday) Might have to water every day.

Cheers!

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You will definitely want more run off and you don't want the plants to soak that back up.

I like to mix my nutrients up in a big old bucket like I use a 5 gallon bucket or even a 15 gallon tote. Then I use that same nutrient mix for two or three days depending on how long it lasts. I'll Water several plants everyday with it. I think you might find it easier two try feeding the same amount each time you feed.

You can keep the same nutrient solution for a week or more if you have a little air stone in there and pump little oxygen in as long as it doesn't get too hot. If it's less than 3 or 4 days I don't bother with an AirStone I just threw it up real good before I pour it on. I also like to put about 2 inches of clay Pebbles over the top of my Coco that way when I pour my mixture on and gets more oxygen into the nutrient mix. If you ever use clay Pebbles you have to wash the heck out of those things they're very alkaline and they will throw your Coco off.

How much nitrogen do you have in your cal/mag?
 
Hey Rookie, good luck! I will be paying attention to your nutes talk a bit myself because I'm running the same stuff - difference is I'm using FFOF soil, so I won't add anything for awhile. Also, for that tent size I don't think you need bigger than a 4in inline fan. I'm using a 4" Hurricane that's 171 CFM with a 4" x 12" Phresh filter that's rated to 200 CFM. To be honest, I mostly have it as a scent killer when the time comes. I have the ability to keep my area and tent pretty open and well ventilated. When the scent comes I'll tighten it up.

Definitely think hard on an AutoCob the next go around. 1-2 for 1-2 plants I'd say.
Thanks for the response! But I chose the 6in bc I am anticipating having heat problems come flowering. I have to keep the AC on in my apartment the whole day in order to keep the closet under 80 degrees. Lights out from 11-3...might switch to 18-6.

Appreciate the led tip! Def want to go that route. Cfls are tough haha

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Noob question, how to you induce flowering in an Auto? I thought we move at the pace of the Auto programming - reactionary as opposed to proactionary.
Dropping hours of light to 12, long enough for pistil formation to begin. Treating them like a photoperiod for a very short time. A drop in Nitrogen and a boost in Phosphorus and Potassium will encourage it. Not a method set in stone, but it works.
The growers here have changed my perception of Automatics, they show me that Autoflowers will respond almost the same way as photoperiods in many respects. They can be topped, trained, and fed regularly, however this is all strain dependent. Some do not respond well at all, more like the autoflowers I was familiar with when I started, but that was many plant generations ago. Now these ladies seem to handle it much better.
 
You will definitely want more run off and you don't want the plants to soak that back up.

I like to mix my nutrients up in a big old bucket like I use a 5 gallon bucket or even a 15 gallon tote. Then I use that same nutrient mix for two or three days depending on how long it lasts. I'll Water several plants everyday with it. I think you might find it easier two try feeding the same amount each time you feed.

You can keep the same nutrient solution for a week or more if you have a little air stone in there and pump little oxygen in as long as it doesn't get too hot. If it's less than 3 or 4 days I don't bother with an AirStone I just threw it up real good before I pour it on. I also like to put about 2 inches of clay Pebbles over the top of my Coco that way when I pour my mixture on and gets more oxygen into the nutrient mix. If you ever use clay Pebbles you have to wash the heck out of those things they're very alkaline and they will throw your Coco off.

How much nitrogen do you have in your cal/mag?
Yeah I should def mix the nutes in a larger gallon jug... Gotta stop being lazy haha

Pebble stones is a great idea...I was thinking sand but pebbles sounds easier. Plus with the amount of perlite I used, my Coco is extremely airy. As far as the calmag, it's 2% nitrogen or ~200 ppm avg

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Dropping hours of light to 12, long enough for pistil formation to begin. Treating them like a photoperiod for a very short time. A drop in Nitrogen and a boost in Phosphorus and Potassium will encourage it. Not a method set in stone, but it works.
The growers here have changed my perception of Automatics, they show me that Autoflowers will respond almost the same way as photoperiods in many respects. They can be topped, trained, and fed regularly, however this is all strain dependent. Some do not respond well at all, more like the autoflowers I was familiar with when I started, but that was many plant generations ago. Now these ladies seem to handle it much better.
My blue Mystic just started showing pistils 2 days ago. At what point would you suggest dropping the nitrogen and bump the phos and pot? I'm at week 4 starting Sunday and was going to keep the nitrogen going to get some more stretch. Also, do you think switching to 12-12 is okay? 18-6?

https://www.autoflower.org/index.php?threads/60697/
 
I haven't used foxfarm nutrients in quite a while and I never used them in Coco, so you can take my advice as you may.

I would keep feeding the same as you have until you show little button type buds forming. Then drop the grow a bit and start the tiger bloom.

As far as lighting goes, I'd keep them on 24-0. Unless you're trying to save money on electricity keeping your lights on constantly will usually help keep the environment more stable and with CFLs you are going to want all the light you can get.
 
My blue Mystic just started showing pistils 2 days ago. At what point would you suggest dropping the nitrogen and bump the phos and pot? I'm at week 4 starting Sunday and was going to keep the nitrogen going to get some more stretch. Also, do you think switching to 12-12 is okay? 18-6?

https://www.autoflower.org/index.php?threads/60697/
I switch my Autoflower ladies over at day 31. If there is time, you may want to allow them to stop their vegetative stretch before flowering nutrients are fed. Allows an individual to reach full growth potential. Some will respond just fine to 18/6, I would try this first if you have been running them at 20/4 or 24/0. Once the switch is flipped,18/6 is where I would keep them. 12/12 doesn't exactly stop them in their tracks, but the stretching almost halts.
 
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