Thanks folk...
I've now readied a 10L nutrient mix with all the GP product line - I used 1/2 strength Plant Guard, 1/4 strength ProCal, 1/3 strength Grow, Bloom, Micro, Thrive, Rezin & Spike, full strength SWTF, 1/2 strength Cannazym, full strength Drip Clean - this mix came out as 320ppm EC 0.65 pH 5.8 (starting water was ~40ppm) - so I think not so strong like I was mixing previously and as per thread suggestions from you wise peeps. This mix will be enabled in the autopots this afternoon (24 hrs post plant flushing where pots currently sit at ~250ppm each pot with pH values of 6.1-6.4 across the pots).
Your comments re CalMag (ProCal) Olderfart are noted. I'll use this product with diligence. Your nutrient guide read was very informative.
As for the root problems with current grow - yes, the autovalves are working as should be on the autopots (brand new system) with the trays filling & emptying as required to operate. I too think that the clay balls were/are the potential problem (but also me too - dunno) - as they were purchased 2nd hand (supposedly washed & pH'd) from local hydro store, and in my foolishness I did not check the pH or buffer them before using same in the current grow (lesson learnt the hard way maybe), all other ingredients commercially purchased & new. Next grow will be using again commercially packaged & premixed coco/perlite (70/30), washed & pre-buffered, low EC <0.5, and pH stabilized - I'll be adding extra washed perlite myself to get to ~60/40 coco/perlite substrate ratio (and no clay balls).
So, my still ongoing nutrient application quandary is - in diluting/weakening vendor suggested base nutrient dosage mix values to obtain an acceptable EC for autopots - do I also need to dilute/weaken the other additives and supplements used in the mix at the same level - or only dilute/weaken the base nutrients and keep the additives/supplements at vendor suggested mix dosage rates (noting not all products actually affect mix EC levels of the nutrient mix)?
I've now readied a 10L nutrient mix with all the GP product line - I used 1/2 strength Plant Guard, 1/4 strength ProCal, 1/3 strength Grow, Bloom, Micro, Thrive, Rezin & Spike, full strength SWTF, 1/2 strength Cannazym, full strength Drip Clean - this mix came out as 320ppm EC 0.65 pH 5.8 (starting water was ~40ppm) - so I think not so strong like I was mixing previously and as per thread suggestions from you wise peeps. This mix will be enabled in the autopots this afternoon (24 hrs post plant flushing where pots currently sit at ~250ppm each pot with pH values of 6.1-6.4 across the pots).
Your comments re CalMag (ProCal) Olderfart are noted. I'll use this product with diligence. Your nutrient guide read was very informative.
As for the root problems with current grow - yes, the autovalves are working as should be on the autopots (brand new system) with the trays filling & emptying as required to operate. I too think that the clay balls were/are the potential problem (but also me too - dunno) - as they were purchased 2nd hand (supposedly washed & pH'd) from local hydro store, and in my foolishness I did not check the pH or buffer them before using same in the current grow (lesson learnt the hard way maybe), all other ingredients commercially purchased & new. Next grow will be using again commercially packaged & premixed coco/perlite (70/30), washed & pre-buffered, low EC <0.5, and pH stabilized - I'll be adding extra washed perlite myself to get to ~60/40 coco/perlite substrate ratio (and no clay balls).
So, my still ongoing nutrient application quandary is - in diluting/weakening vendor suggested base nutrient dosage mix values to obtain an acceptable EC for autopots - do I also need to dilute/weaken the other additives and supplements used in the mix at the same level - or only dilute/weaken the base nutrients and keep the additives/supplements at vendor suggested mix dosage rates (noting not all products actually affect mix EC levels of the nutrient mix)?