Grow Mediums Autopot EC Feed Program

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Folks...

I'm about to commence using Green Planet nutrient product range based on the direct partnership with Autopot - and availability of quality nutrient products within Australia. What's your thoughts on the Green Planet GP3 Part AutoPot Feed Program from a Vegetative / Flowering weekly nutrient EC requirements? I'm about to start Autopot grow with 4x 20L XL fabric pots (60/40 coco/perlite), no airstones, no clay balls, 35L resovoir, 5'x5' tent, 600w LED, 6" airway. I intend to further use as part of my nutrient regime the GP Plant Guard (potassium silicate supplement) and ProCal (calcium, magnesium, iron) products. Anyone have any experience or advice with using the Green Planet range of nutrients & supplements?
Thanks all...

GP3.JPG
 
Folks...

I'm about to commence using Green Planet nutrient product range based on the direct partnership with Autopot - and availability of quality nutrient products within Australia. What's your thoughts on the Green Planet GP3 Part AutoPot Feed Program from a Vegetative / Flowering weekly nutrient EC requirements? I'm about to start Autopot grow with 4x 20L XL fabric pots (60/40 coco/perlite), no airstones, no clay balls, 35L resovoir, 5'x5' tent, 600w LED, 6" airway. I intend to further use as part of my nutrient regime the GP Plant Guard (potassium silicate supplement) and ProCal (calcium, magnesium, iron) products. Anyone have any experience or advice with using the Green Planet range of nutrients & supplements?
Thanks all...

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With your plants being autoflowers you will want to go lower than your schedule also ive never used these nutes but @Mañ'O'Green is are nutrients guy he may be able to give you some good advice also i grow in autopots myself but with emerald harvest nutes
 
@OzScott :welcome:Welcome to AF:welcome:You are going to need an EC pen and a PH pen/probe. That schedule for the GPS is way too much for Autoflowering plants and IMPO to high for even Photoperiod plants. 1.2 EC / 600 PPM not counting your starting water is the limit. Then thing is you want to keep the nutrients in the same balance to each other all of the time. So lets say you are in week 2 of flower and you want ~60% strength of the chart, that means 60% of each product. 60% of Grow,60% of Bloom, 60% of Micro and 60% of Rezin

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Read here about why you should be using ALL of the products in the line:


:goodluck:
 
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Folks...

I'm about to commence using Green Planet nutrient product range based on the direct partnership with Autopot - and availability of quality nutrient products within Australia. What's your thoughts on the Green Planet GP3 Part AutoPot Feed Program from a Vegetative / Flowering weekly nutrient EC requirements? I'm about to start Autopot grow with 4x 20L XL fabric pots (60/40 coco/perlite), no airstones, no clay balls, 35L resovoir, 5'x5' tent, 600w LED, 6" airway. I intend to further use as part of my nutrient regime the GP Plant Guard (potassium silicate supplement) and ProCal (calcium, magnesium, iron) products. Anyone have any experience or advice with using the Green Planet range of nutrients & supplements?
Thanks all...

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As MOG suggests, the schedule provided is way too hot, especially for autoflowers, especially for autopots, and IMO, likely deadly for the combination. I would not go higher than 500ppm/1000EC unless your plants clearly ask for more, and I would work up carefully to even that moderate level. If you hit autopots with >2000 EC, I expect you would be badly locked out in short order.

Just my 2 cents of course, and no, I have not used your nute line...

Good luck with it. :pighug:
 
Thanks Mañ'O'Green, St. Tom & Olderfart - appreciated.

Yes, I have EC/pH/PPM tools to manage the nutrient mixing process and ongoing stability of the reservoir (Bluelab truncheon). Duly noted that Autpot systems require far weaker strength nutrient mix (<1.2EC/600PPM) than those used in say a coco RTW water system (would you further suggest up to ~400ppm for veg & up to 600ppm for flower). I use creek water for my nutrient mix (~40ppm/7.0pH) and mix the nutrients when water temps reach ~20 degree Celcius. I do use the feed schedule range of nutrient/additive/supplements, and further use the GP Plant Guard (potassium silicate supplement) and ProCal (calcium, magnesium, iron) products also. I understand the importance of the nutrient element mix ratio (NER) and abide by the product vendor suggested product mix rates (as per your advice too) - as well as the correct product mixing order (Plant Guard 1st to let assimilate) then ProCal and then the other feed chart products (Grow, Bloom, Micro, Thrive, Rezin, Spike). I also use H&G Drip Guard ongoing as a tubing cleaning agent.

Q1: Say I mix a 10L nutrient batch using vendor suggested NER mix ratio - and then find it's over the EC/PPM threshold recommended (say 1.8EC) - I would typically 'water-down' the nutrient mix until it fell to the acceptable EC/PPM (let's say add another 5L water to achieve this reduction in EC) - then ensure the now 15L nutrient mix is still pH 5.8-6.0 - and then use in the reservoir. But having diluted the mix EC value with the additional water (now a 15L mix @ EC1.2) this would have also diluted the additives/supplements (Guard, ProCal, Thrive, Rezin, Spike) in the mix. Should I be adding additional quantities of the additives/supplements to compensate for the additional 5L water so that these components too are still at manufacturer recommended mix dosing levels (or conversly, just lower the additives/supplement product dose rates to the 60% mark also in this instance)?

Q2: Understanding that the vendor base nutrients NER mix rates are typically too high as per their feeding chart - does this typically also apply to the vendor additives and supplements mixing values? Meaning, if I find that for week 2 of flower I require only ~60% strength of the chart base nutrients (60% each Grow, Bloom, Micro) I would also only use 60% values for Plant Guard, ProCal, Thrive, Rezin & Spike or stay at full vendor suggested mixing values for these additive/supplements?

Q3: 'Great White' mycorrhizal fungi & beneficial bacteria - would you suggest I mix 'Great White' mycorrhizal product into the nutrient mix or have other approach to applying mycorrhizal fungi / bacteria to the growing plants coco/perlite substrate.

Many thanks for your informed advice - greatly appreciated :)

PS: Picture of my present grow (Girl Scout Cookies photoFEM's) that I feel have been stressed/stunted from excessive EC levels (up to 1.8EC) during the Autopot grow cycle veg & flower. Now ~12 weeks old from seed and ~2 weeks in flower. I'm close to dumping these girls in favour of starting again with Auto's this time (Mandalorian & Beaver genetics next grow) - hence want to get the feeding regime correct bigtime!
 

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Folk... I just finished flushing the plants in their 4x XL fabric pots. Took them out of their autopot & watered 25L of 100ppm nutrient mix pH'd @ 5.8 through each pot. This decreased pot ppm on each to ~250ppm each pot with pH values of 6.1-6.4 across the pots. I've left the nutrient lines turned off, so the plants are now just sitting in their empty Auutpots waiting for the system to be turned on again.

There was noticeable (I won't say bad) root zone decay smell emanating from 2x pots (all have 50mm clay ball bottoms). I plan to use 'Sleeps With The Fishez' and 'CannaZym' to correct the root rot issues once the system is on again. (SWTF - an oxyacid of chlorine containing monovalent chlorine that acts as an oxidising or reducing agent destroying harmful algae and bacterial, fungal and viral pathogens on contact) (CZ - enzyme product that speeds up the process of breaking down dead root material and activates beneficial micro-organisms)

In 24 hours I'll mix a new full compliment of nutrient, additive, supplement for the reservoir. I plan to use all the products mentioned throughout this thread. Hopefully your feedback re Q2 above will come before I proceed with my reservoir refill should I be making another mistake? I'm thinking initially restart nutrients with 10L tank level mixed @ ~250ppm pH 6.0.

Plant Guard, ProCal, Grow, Bloom, Micro, Thrive, Rezin, Spike (and for the 1st reservoir SWTF & CZ)

Thanks all for your advice and wisdom...
 
Sorry about that - my existing autopot attempt is/was failing and I am/was going to abandon the grow in favour of starting again - hence the reference to it being a new grow. My grow thus far has been with House & Garden product range and I feel may have contributed to my problems because of my misuse with the autopot? I've grown in coco/perlite run to waste previously, but haven't managed to master the autopot system as yet. Whether I keep the current Photoperiod grow or abandon in favour of the new grow using AutoFems - the next week will tell. All other detail advised is as is now. Sorry to have caused any confusion - the information provided by you good folk is priceless :)
 
I can't provide much of an answer to your additive question. However, getting your ppm's/EC correct with your nute line seems by far the highest priority to me. Once that is accomplished, the additive package could be left as is, with adjustments the next time a mix is done, or, if the required mixing sequence permits, adjusted after bringing the ppm/EC into line. Personally, unless others here with more experience suggest otherwise, I would just leave the additive package diluted, and plan on increasing the additive dosage the next time.

Beware the cal mag - I don't know about your nute package, but cal mag seems to cause more grief than otherwise on a regular basis with some other nute lines.

Sorry to hear about your root problems with the current grow. Are you certain that the autovalves on the problem pots were functioning properly? Specifically, are you sure that they allowed the nute mix to be completely used up before re-flooding the tray? If the air valve on the top of the autovalve assembly does not seal properly, the nute level will never be completely used up, leaving the bottom half inch or so of the pot sitting permanently in liquid, which could cause root rot. OTOH, it is possible that the clay balls are the only problem. Dunno.

In any case, I think the decision to not use clay balls next time is a good one. Straight clay balls in flood zone of the aquavalves seems unlikely to work well to me. Coco/perlite works a treat in autopots, no further medium material is needed. Just make sure that your coco is buffered.
 
Oops, one more thing - you might consider using some yucca powder in your additive mix. It will prevent any of the coco becoming hydrophobic if it dries out, not that that is likely in an autopot. A tiny bit goes a long way, cheap insurance in my books.
 
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