AutoFlower Confidential Cheese Project!!

N

neostar

Guest
Project Confidential Cheese
Breeding Confidential Cheese into a auto...Well right now I'm popping 22 seeds I got from the F1 cross of a auto strain x Confidential Cheese....My plan is to grow out the F1 seeds and Backcross it will the Autoflower Male used to make the F1 seeds....

A question I have is when I do start getting the offspring to be auto like in F5 generation what is the best thing to do use the original male to backcross with the autoflower female from the f5 or inbreed and use a auto male from the f5?What will the outcome be from each option?

Confidential Cheese X CaliFlower F1 Pic 2.jpgConfidential Cheese X CaliFlower F1.jpg


 
You should inbreed, rather than back cross. Inbreeding preserves recessive traits from your photoperiod parent better than if you were to backcross to the autoflower. Also, you start to see autoflowers at the F2, so your journey is a lot closer to being finished than you think! And backcrossing... many marijuana "breeders" have propagated this bad advice for years - the only situation it is really useful is if you are trying to recreate a clone only strain. However, it leads to badly inbred lines because both alleles for a given gene only come from one parent - opening up many genetic deformities. Also, bad "breeders" have seen success with this method because they have to search less for recessive traits. I actually saw an old "breeding" article from the 90s where a respected guy said that "if you don't see a trait come up in the first generation then it isn't worth breeding for". I think he was talking about blueberry smell or something, but he showed a lack of basic Punnet Square knowledge - and due to his ethos, the bad advice was never challenged.

Anyways, there is one benefit to back crossing - you will see more autoflowers in your F2 than if you were inbreeding. If you backcross you will see 50% auto in the F2, but you will be 3/4 the original auto and 25% the photoperiod. This makes for smaller gains in aromas and potency with each generation, and means you have to look harder and harder to find the most potent.

If you INBREED them, which means a male and female (brother and sister) of your F1 you are growing now, you will have 25% auto at the F2, BUT you're still half and half between the two parents. So lets say you're crossing a 12% auto to a 20% photoperiod. The potency percentage in the offspring will show up as a bell curve distribution - with most of the offspring having a median THC content(12 and 20 are the extremes, so the median is 16%), and a few offspring that are super potent and a few offspring that are schwag.

If you backcross to the autoflower parent (12%) with one of your F1s (median THC content 16% - could find one more potent, but the further from the median number, the less frequent they appear), you now only have a range of possible potencies from 12% to 16%, with most of your offspring at 14%, and a few extremes that are higher or lower. Because of this, there is no reason to back cross to the less potent parent, ever.

The best way to go about the situation (for potency and flavors) is to inbreed your F1 to make F2. Only 25% of the F2 will autoflower, but you will see definite increases in potency and aroma by the F3 compared to if you were to backcross to the autoflower parent. Of those F2 that autoflower, breed a male and a female together and by F3 you will be fully autoflower. You will still have to stabilize plant structure, but at this point you're more potent than if you had taken an F1, backcrossed it to an auto, and bred the resulting autoflower offspring. Both scenarios take 3 generations, but the difference being that the backcrossing shortcut will give you 50% auto compared to 25% auto at the F2, but inbreeding gives you more potency and aroma, even though you see 25% autoflower at F2.

NOW, once you have a fully autoflower male from the F2 - branch the line off. Breed two fully autos from the F2 together to have a fully auto F3 but ALSO use an autoflowering male to backcross to the photoperiod female. You would then have a 3/4 cheese and 1/4 auto. If your F2 male was average at 16% (based on the hypothetical numbers above) and your photoperiod was 20%, this line of seeds would have a median potency of 18%, but you would have to inbreed to F2 to see any autoflower.
 
You should inbreed, rather than back cross. Inbreeding preserves recessive traits from your photoperiod parent better than if you were to backcross to the autoflower. Also, you start to see autoflowers at the F2, so your journey is a lot closer to being finished than you think! And backcrossing... many marijuana "breeders" have propagated this bad advice for years - the only situation it is really useful is if you are trying to recreate a clone only strain. However, it leads to badly inbred lines because both alleles for a given gene only come from one parent - opening up many genetic deformities. Also, bad "breeders" have seen success with this method because they have to search less for recessive traits. I actually saw an old "breeding" article from the 90s where a respected guy said that "if you don't see a trait come up in the first generation then it isn't worth breeding for". I think he was talking about blueberry smell or something, but he showed a lack of basic Punnet Square knowledge - and due to his ethos, the bad advice was never challenged.



Anyways, there is one benefit to back crossing - you will see more autoflowers in your F2 than if you were inbreeding. If you backcross you will see 50% auto in the F2, but you will be 3/4 the original auto and 25% the photoperiod. This makes for smaller gains in aromas and potency with each generation, and means you have to look harder and harder to find the most potent.

If you INBREED them, which means a male and female (brother and sister) of your F1 you are growing now, you will have 25% auto at the F2, BUT you're still half and half between the two parents. So lets say you're crossing a 12% auto to a 20% photoperiod. The potency percentage in the offspring will show up as a bell curve distribution - with most of the offspring having a median THC content(12 and 20 are the extremes, so the median is 16%), and a few offspring that are super potent and a few offspring that are schwag.

If you backcross to the autoflower parent (12%) with one of your F1s (median THC content 16% - could find one more potent, but the further from the median number, the less frequent they appear), you now only have a range of possible potencies from 12% to 16%, with most of your offspring at 14%, and a few extremes that are higher or lower. Because of this, there is no reason to back cross to the less potent parent, ever.

The best way to go about the situation (for potency and flavors) is to inbreed your F1 to make F2. Only 25% of the F2 will autoflower, but you will see definite increases in potency and aroma by the F3 compared to if you were to backcross to the autoflower parent. Of those F2 that autoflower, breed a male and a female together and by F3 you will be fully autoflower. You will still have to stabilize plant structure, but at this point you're more potent than if you had taken an F1, backcrossed it to an auto, and bred the resulting autoflower offspring. Both scenarios take 3 generations, but the difference being that the backcrossing shortcut will give you 50% auto compared to 25% auto at the F2, but inbreeding gives you more potency and aroma, even though you see 25% autoflower at F2.

NOW, once you have a fully autoflower male from the F2 - branch the line off. Breed two fully autos from the F2 together to have a fully auto F3 but ALSO use an autoflowering male to backcross to the photoperiod female. You would then have a 3/4 cheese and 1/4 auto. If your F2 male was average at 16% (based on the hypothetical numbers above) and your photoperiod was 20%, this line of seeds would have a median potency of 18%, but you would have to inbreed to F2 to see any autoflower.

mattinuk3 You are the man!!! :D I've read a lot of breeding articles but dam bro you completely put things in words I understand hahahahah.....Let me give a quick review instead of backcrossing the Original male with the F1 I'm better off inbreeding to keep the confidential cheese gene in future generations, also to get a better chance of potency and better genetics...Also once I get a auto male I should backcross it with the original photo confidential cheese to get a 3/4 cheese and 1/4 auto ratio in genetics....
Again thanks mattinuk3 for taking the time for this nice size write up :bow:
 
A update picture...So far all 22 F1 seeds have germinated and more than half have sprouted...Things are looking good :jump:


CCxAuto.jpg

One of my clone photoperiod Confidential Cheese....
04262012069.jpg
 
Ok guys here is a update.... I lost 3 from having weak stems and falling over and dieing...Let me also say they are outside and adjusted to the warm weather perfectly...Can't wait for them to grow and start picking out the best of the best to inbreed :) Confidential Cheese Auto here I come :booya:
05072012134.jpg05072012132.jpg
pencil.png
 
I will be looking for Testers once things are in full auto...So if anyone is interested please let me know ..Please remember this will be a long time before I get to this point but I just want those that are willing to know already :)
 
Plenty of good looking sprouts, dude. :thumbs:
 
Yea dont' mind the writting on some of the cups..ahhah I reused some old cups I had laying around hahah just noticed one has white widow written on it...just want to let you guys know so there isn't any confusion :)

Oh and Thanks Squidherb really hoping things all go well can't wait :)
 
I'll be checking you out as you progress. I have some babies that will emerge from mix in just a day or two. I am rather excited myself. Good green vibes to us both, man. :smokeit:
 
Back
Top