Great white Mycorrhizae - Mycorrhizae are beneficial fungus which effectively create a secondary root system with their hyphae (think fungus roots).
The great white is a an inoculant containing beneficial fungus spores, which are applied to the plants roots, where they will attach to the root and live symbiotically with the plant.
Plant roots are incapable of taking up phosphate ions that are demineralized in soils with a basic PH but the myccorhizae mycelium can access these phosphate ions and supply them to the plant.
The mycorrhizae is more able to uptake nutrients such as phosphate ions and will swap them with the plant for sugars produced by photosynthesis, which the fungus can not create itself.
Mycorrhizae are found in 92% of plant families and play an important roll in their growth.
Another benefit of mycorrhizae is that is prevents disease and pathenogens from attacking your plant and also increases drought resistance by creating a large secondary root system , which means it is more able to find and uptake water.
The mycorrhizae should only need to be applied once and then stored until you grow another crop (unless otherwise stated).
Think Elsam was talking about Cotyledons. cotyledons are the seed leaves (the first leaves you see when the seed sprouts)
These leaves look unlike any of the true leaves that follow.
Cotyledons are are like a little power house and are quite thick due to them containing stored energy with which to get the growth cycle started.
As the true leave develope and start photosynthesizing and the food stores in the cotyledon get used up, they will wither and fall of as their job has been done.
This what elsam meant when he said that the cotyledons fall off around the time he starts feeding.
Once the true leaves start photosynthesizing this is the time the plant need to find food from the soil.
Here we see a young cannabis seedling. The bottom two leaves are thick and round and are called cotyledons.
The two above are the first true leaves and are already displaying the familiar cannabis shape with serrated leaves, albeit only as single blades at this young stage.
As for Calmag & Epsome salts, you won't need both. Due to your very hard water which will be choc full of calcium, I would plump with Epsome salts (Magnesium Sulphate).
Epsome salts are inexpensive and can be bought at you local chemist or drug store and of course online.
Epsome salts are used at a rate of 1 level table spoon (3 teaspoons) to 1 gallon (4.5 Liters) of water.
The epsome salts are first put into a small amount of warm water to dissolve the crystals and then topped up with cold (not too cold though) water.
A foliar spray can be made using 1 level teaspoon of epsome salts to 1 Liter of water, dissolved as before and topped up with water and applied using a spray bottle.
When you see Mag def a foliar application get straight to where it is needed ie. the leaves, this process is slower if it has to first be taken up by the plant from the soil. Subsequent applications will be via the root system , not forgetting to PH your epsome solution first.
I just looked up Flora Nova and it seems to be for DWC and recircluting systems (which you said you used it for before) I can't find a soil feed chart for it. It maybe better to get a veg nute designed for soil and then the application measurements will be a lot simpler.
OF soil you shouldn't feed anything but ph water for the first 2-3 weeks, maybe 4 has been my experience with that soil. watch the cotyl...cotlld? oh hell, those little round things near the bottom of the stem. when those yellow a little is when I start feeding. start at 1/4 strength at first and if no nute burn, up it a little at a time. what ff bloom booster are you talking about. I can help with th ff beastie bloom and cha-ching. set up looks good and it looks like you did your research.
and grow
to get your first auto's.
rermember one thing it's a weed, and almost grow's itself
I am a k.i.s.s. grower
