allowing things to ripen.

[Ben-Do]

I am new to growing ....a year and a half and I have sadly harvested prematurely on a number of occasions. As you can imagine this is detrimental and I wish I could do it no more. I've had some problems with bananas if I leave things too long which prompts me to consider harvesting too soon. I've been using granddaddy purple and Chemdog this year and outdoors for me didn't go well because I was forced to pre-maturely harvest. But I'm still lacking that discipline indoors and it seems as though it's taking a good while for my granddaddy to purple up. there are the tips of the calaxes on some of the budd that have whitened and hardened... it's noticeable as you look at the bud ....it's like a tiny little leaf tip that got burnt. I've also noticed that with GDP , that "GDPurp smell "doesn't come in until like the last week, correct? I wish I had someone to talk to you sometimes about these things. I do everything possible that I can that I've read that is correct to do and I use GH nutrients I mean they're full line. I haven't bought that ripen product which is 0-7-5,,,,,,,,but I've got Humboldt secret Flower stacker which is 0-7-6 itself. HUMBOLTS secret turned out to be a FLOP I believe. it doesn'tContain any sulfur! What?? I don't believe it from an upstart company like that that is getting pushed with advertising and marketing. It's just too simple of a program. I'm thinking about sending it back....the little $109 sample kit got me deficient real quick ----I'm thinking about sending mine back.

by the way I am absolutely zero good for auto flowers. They just die. They either grow about 5 inches tall which is fucking crazy or they just die. I've tried them for a year and a half I have no idea what's going on. I had one point where I had about five plants actually go to harvest but they were dwarfed and only about a foot and a half tall. I have no idea how the nutrient stuff goes for autos I read everything but I can't get it. I've got some good genetics going right now I've got a Lotta good looking skittles and big bud. KarmaOG seeds and (Cookies#1 x Cookies#4) i think.

 

[Creature]

"The waiting is the hardest part." ~ Tom Petty
Guilty. 3 years in and I still chop early on occasion. Sometimes ya just need that space when perpetually running autos. I've been trying to pop seeds less often but.. Yep.

My first auto grow was bad but finished out. Too hot a soil, bad mix with coco, probably bad watering habits, etc. Stunted plants 12 to 16" tall. Bad all around.
I switched to coco and nutes formulated for coco on my next grow and haven't looked back. Now I fight to keep 'em below 4 feet tall.
I still run a plant in soil here and there to remind me to stick with coco. lol

Maybe you just need to change things up.

 

[Ben-Do]

OK i start mine in coco but they do not take off quickly. And it seems difficult for me to find the right P PMs to use. I guess is like 3 to 400 until they've got three or four nodes?
on the other hand the skittles are freaking phenomenal like I've never seen before

 

[Arthur]

When I first started an "old timer" told me,

when you think its done, give it 2 more weeks.

That was a long time ago, and many many harvests, and some of the best advice i was ever given.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@Ben-Do Welcome to AFN.

The only difference in growing autos and photos is (drum roll) nothing............. They need the same environmental factors and nutrients. Ok one thing you do have to change the light schedule to 12/12 to start and run flowering in photos.

Yes, the auto plants genetically are generally shorter but I have grown 5 foot tall autos indoors. They generally only need 50% to 70% strength nutrients but I have grown photos that needed about the same. They ripen faster so you adjust your nutrients accordingly by watching the stage they are in. I do the same with photos. Part of the reason autos can run on lower strength nutrients is because their day is longer giving them more time to take the nutrients up.

Reasons you might be having problems indoors:

Lights do not produce enough PAR and run in the wrong spectrum. Cannabis needs a minimum 32 DLI to grow well and up to 60 DLI as a maximum. To get a better terpene profile you need to add some UVA and to get more THC add some UVB This is the same for photos and autos. It takes better lights to provide the minimum 32 DLI in 12 hours for photos compared to the 18 hours for autos. This is why you will hear people say to run lights turned down some for autos; the lights simply produce more DLI in a longer day.

Because autos mature faster you do not want to do anything that might slow them down, no transplanting, no HST. Make sure to always fertigate the entire pot as dry spots stop root growth stunting the plant. This happens to photos as well but you have time in veg to compensate for that.

Not enough fresh air. If you are in closed room the air can run out of carbon dioxide. The plants just use it up.

Temperatures and relative humidity out of range. Cannabis does best indoors at 68°F night time and 78°F daytime with RH >40% <60%.

Three things can cause "Naners" stress, genetics and old age. Stress can be avoided by good practices but lets face it shit happens to all of us. Genetics, purple color plants have a tendency to have naners. Then there is Rodelization, it is a thing and a process. As a thing it is an older plant in late flower that wants to reproduce so badly that it produces some naners. On most plants the trichomes are past 50% amber before you will see this. 50% amber is past the harvest window IMPO. As a process it has been used to self a plant to make seed (does not make good quality seed).

Color can be enhanced indoors by lowering the night time temperature to around 64°F in the last 3 weeks but be careful to keep the RH ~40% or less at night or risk mold at the lower temperature.

Nutrients what a wild ride commercialization and profit has provided here. Besides the Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen you get from the water and air you need 14 elements in these ranges:

You can mix and match all you want as long as everything is present and stays in the above ranges the plant will live. This is called nutrient balance. If you want your plant to thrive then you provide a shift in the balance of these from low to high depending on the plants maturity. No matter what each element must remain in it's proper range or a lock-out or deficiency will ensue. Never feed a single element. That would be the definition of out of balance.

Bio-stimulants are not required but provide valuable assistance to the plant in taking in the nutrients. Kelp, Humic Acid and B-Vitamins are all proven to improve a plants vigor.

I hope this information is helpful.

 

[idiopathic neuropathy]

@Ben-Do Welcome to AFN.

The only difference in growing autos and photos is (drum roll) nothing............. They need the same environmental factors and nutrients. Ok one thing you do have to change the light schedule to 12/12 to start and run flowering in photos.

Yes, the auto plants genetically are generally shorter but I have grown 5 foot tall autos indoors. They generally only need 50% to 70% strength nutrients but I have grown photos that needed about the same. They ripen faster so you adjust your nutrients accordingly by watching the stage they are in. I do the same with photos. Part of the reason autos can run on lower strength nutrients is because their day is longer giving them more time to take the nutrients up.

Reasons you might be having problems indoors:

Lights do not produce enough PAR and run in the wrong spectrum. Cannabis needs a minimum 32 DLI to grow well and up to 60 DLI as a maximum. To get a better terpene profile you need to add some UVA and to get more THC add some UVB This is the same for photos and autos. It takes better lights to provide the minimum 32 DLI in 12 hours for photos compared to the 18 hours for autos. This is why you will hear people say to run lights turned down some for autos; the lights simply produce more DLI in a longer day.

Because autos mature faster you do not want to do anything that might slow them down, no transplanting, no HST. Make sure to always fertigate the entire pot as dry spots stop root growth stunting the plant. This happens to photos as well but you have time in veg to compensate for that.

Not enough fresh air. If you are in closed room the air can run out of carbon dioxide. The plants just use it up.

Temperatures and relative humidity out of range. Cannabis does best indoors at 68°F night time and 78°F daytime with RH >40% <60%.

Three things can cause "Naners" stress, genetics and old age. Stress can be avoided by good practices but lets face it shit happens to all of us. Genetics, purple color plants have a tendency to have naners. Then there is Rodelization, it is a thing and a process. As a thing it is an older plant in late flower that wants to reproduce so badly that it produces some naners. On most plants the trichomes are past 50% amber before you will see this. 50% amber is past the harvest window IMPO. As a process it has been used to self a plant to make seed (does not make good quality seed).

Color can be enhanced indoors by lowering the night time temperature to around 64°F in the last 3 weeks but be careful to keep the RH ~40% or less at night or risk mold at the lower temperature.

Nutrients what a wild ride commercialization and profit has provided here. Besides the Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen you get from the water and air you need 14 elements in these ranges:

View attachment 1253673

You can mix and match all you want as long as everything is present and stays in the above ranges the plant will live. This is called nutrient balance. If you want your plant to thrive then you provide a shift in the balance of these from low to high depending on the plants maturity. No matter what each element must remain in it's proper range or a lock-out or deficiency will ensue. Never feed a single element. That would be the definition of out of balance.

Bio-stimulants are not required but provide valuable assistance to the plant in taking in the nutrients. Kelp, Humic Acid and B-Vitamins are all proven to improve a plants vigor.

I hope this information is helpful.

@Mañ'O'Green .....applause to you brother
You are a" breath of fresh air" and an asset to this community.
Very well said.

 

[Ben-Do]

@Ben-Do Welcome to AFN.

The only difference in growing autos and photos is (drum roll) nothing............. They need the same environmental factors and nutrients. Ok one thing you do have to change the light schedule to 12/12 to start and run flowering in photos.

Yes, the auto plants genetically are generally shorter but I have grown 5 foot tall autos indoors. They generally only need 50% to 70% strength nutrients but I have grown photos that needed about the same. They ripen faster so you adjust your nutrients accordingly by watching the stage they are in. I do the same with photos. Part of the reason autos can run on lower strength nutrients is because their day is longer giving them more time to take the nutrients up.

Reasons you might be having problems indoors:

Lights do not produce enough PAR and run in the wrong spectrum. Cannabis needs a minimum 32 DLI to grow well and up to 60 DLI as a maximum. To get a better terpene profile you need to add some UVA and to get more THC add some UVB This is the same for photos and autos. It takes better lights to provide the minimum 32 DLI in 12 hours for photos compared to the 18 hours for autos. This is why you will hear people say to run lights turned down some for autos; the lights simply produce more DLI in a longer day.

Because autos mature faster you do not want to do anything that might slow them down, no transplanting, no HST. Make sure to always fertigate the entire pot as dry spots stop root growth stunting the plant. This happens to photos as well but you have time in veg to compensate for that.

Not enough fresh air. If you are in closed room the air can run out of carbon dioxide. The plants just use it up.

Temperatures and relative humidity out of range. Cannabis does best indoors at 68°F night time and 78°F daytime with RH >40% <60%.

Three things can cause "Naners" stress, genetics and old age. Stress can be avoided by good practices but lets face it shit happens to all of us. Genetics, purple color plants have a tendency to have naners. Then there is Rodelization, it is a thing and a process. As a thing it is an older plant in late flower that wants to reproduce so badly that it produces some naners. On most plants the trichomes are past 50% amber before you will see this. 50% amber is past the harvest window IMPO. As a process it has been used to self a plant to make seed (does not make good quality seed).

Color can be enhanced indoors by lowering the night time temperature to around 64°F in the last 3 weeks but be careful to keep the RH ~40% or less at night or risk mold at the lower temperature.

Nutrients what a wild ride commercialization and profit has provided here. Besides the Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen you get from the water and air you need 14 elements in these ranges:

View attachment 1253673

You can mix and match all you want as long as everything is present and stays in the above ranges the plant will live. This is called nutrient balance. If you want your plant to thrive then you provide a shift in the balance of these from low to high depending on the plants maturity. No matter what each element must remain in it's proper range or a lock-out or deficiency will ensue. Never feed a single element. That would be the definition of out of balance.

Bio-stimulants are not required but provide valuable assistance to the plant in taking in the nutrients. Kelp, Humic Acid and B-Vitamins are all proven to improve a plants vigor.

I hope this information is helpful.

Thank you very much! yes most everything seems to be checking out.
the last GDP did have one spot of mold today on the highest biggest bud. it has bee 21%_35% RH at night and extra low daily,idk.
it now also started having nanners too. I think it got fuzzy and at that point I thought that was something abnormal and so I sprayed it with green cleaner and it looks like I've knocked off a whole bunch of Tricom heads but now the plant has produced more. The new ones are still just now getting cloudy but I think I'm gonna pull it

 

[WildBill]

How in the hell did you get mold with those humidity levels and at the top?
Do you have good airflow? Never underestimate the importance of proper airflow and intake of fresh air.
One thing that Mañ'O'Green touched on, with mentioning temps and humidity, is VPD (Vapor Pressure Deficit).
Keeping VPD in the in the proper range at the different stages of the grow is one of the many keys to a productive grow.

Being an avid organic gardener and farmer for all these years, my recommendation is gonna be to go towards larger pots and a living soil. Feeding your soil and little friends and having the plant tell them what it wants is easier that you giving the plant what you think it needs, at least in my mind.
This is an outstanding forum with helpful and knowledgeable people ready to help you grow the best canna possible.

Welcome!

 

[Olderfart]

@Ben-Do Welcome to AFN.

The only difference in growing autos and photos is (drum roll) nothing............. They need the same environmental factors and nutrients. Ok one thing you do have to change the light schedule to 12/12 to start and run flowering in photos.

Yes, the auto plants genetically are generally shorter but I have grown 5 foot tall autos indoors. They generally only need 50% to 70% strength nutrients but I have grown photos that needed about the same. They ripen faster so you adjust your nutrients accordingly by watching the stage they are in. I do the same with photos. Part of the reason autos can run on lower strength nutrients is because their day is longer giving them more time to take the nutrients up.

Reasons you might be having problems indoors:

Lights do not produce enough PAR and run in the wrong spectrum. Cannabis needs a minimum 32 DLI to grow well and up to 60 DLI as a maximum. To get a better terpene profile you need to add some UVA and to get more THC add some UVB This is the same for photos and autos. It takes better lights to provide the minimum 32 DLI in 12 hours for photos compared to the 18 hours for autos. This is why you will hear people say to run lights turned down some for autos; the lights simply produce more DLI in a longer day.

Because autos mature faster you do not want to do anything that might slow them down, no transplanting, no HST. Make sure to always fertigate the entire pot as dry spots stop root growth stunting the plant. This happens to photos as well but you have time in veg to compensate for that.

Not enough fresh air. If you are in closed room the air can run out of carbon dioxide. The plants just use it up.

Temperatures and relative humidity out of range. Cannabis does best indoors at 68°F night time and 78°F daytime with RH >40% <60%.

Three things can cause "Naners" stress, genetics and old age. Stress can be avoided by good practices but lets face it shit happens to all of us. Genetics, purple color plants have a tendency to have naners. Then there is Rodelization, it is a thing and a process. As a thing it is an older plant in late flower that wants to reproduce so badly that it produces some naners. On most plants the trichomes are past 50% amber before you will see this. 50% amber is past the harvest window IMPO. As a process it has been used to self a plant to make seed (does not make good quality seed).

Color can be enhanced indoors by lowering the night time temperature to around 64°F in the last 3 weeks but be careful to keep the RH ~40% or less at night or risk mold at the lower temperature.

Nutrients what a wild ride commercialization and profit has provided here. Besides the Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen you get from the water and air you need 14 elements in these ranges:

View attachment 1253673

You can mix and match all you want as long as everything is present and stays in the above ranges the plant will live. This is called nutrient balance. If you want your plant to thrive then you provide a shift in the balance of these from low to high depending on the plants maturity. No matter what each element must remain in it's proper range or a lock-out or deficiency will ensue. Never feed a single element. That would be the definition of out of balance.

Bio-stimulants are not required but provide valuable assistance to the plant in taking in the nutrients. Kelp, Humic Acid and B-Vitamins are all proven to improve a plants vigor.

I hope this information is helpful.

As always @Mañ'O'Green, a concise and helpful summary. Have a rep slap from me too. Your knowledge, patience, and willingness to share, and similar behaviour by other experts here, make this forum the friendly, supportive, and helpful forum that it is.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@Ben-Do If you have not already got that mold out of your house DO IT ASAP. With gloves on and Sanitized Scissors (Sanitize them with each cut ).

Carefully remove each moldy bud by cutting 1" below any visible mold. Try not to shake it doing so will release spores. I have wrapped plastic wrap carefully around a bud before I cut. Take it right out of the house. Use new gloves or sanitize them with ISO between each operation.

I hate that shyte.

After this grow is over clean the entire grow space with bleach. Get everywhere you can. You want to kill as many spores as possible. I just purchased a UVC lamp for work in my mushroom projects and will be running it in my space after I bleach it as I had some mold in this crop as well. My environmental factors never entered the danger zone. I may not have had enough airflow on the far left of my grow space. I will be adding a second fan. The spores for botrytis are ever present but keeping their number as low as possible is the goal.