Afghan x Purple Mazar

P

Purple Rain

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Title tell's more or less what's going on in my closet.
I used 2 different phenos of outdoor afghan I got from some small seedbank that doesn't exist anymore. It grew 1-1,2m high whit huge dark green leaves and bushy structure. It didn't stretch much in flowering.
It didn,t make huge buds and it wasn,t wery strong on thc and it needed long curing to be pleasant to smoke, but there was something about it that made it very interesting.
It showed sex in 4-6 weeks and tricommes turned milky in 7th week of flowering and amber in 8th. It didn't smell at all before last 2 weeks, but the smell was wery strong when cutted down and cured.
All who tasted it feeld the same: first it seemed like nothing happened and then after about 5-10 min. people starting to notice they are geting high. After 30min. they feel they were very high and stoned and in 45 min. they hit the roof and in an hour they wanted more but it just didn't get any higher.
Friend of mine told it helped him with the constant pain in his back and another one told it get him sleep. I found it to heavy before sleep and got hangover. :rolleyes:
Here at this point i made lucky experiment I tried to grow it out side but the flowering clones re-vegged them selves, but before that happened I pollinated them with Purple Mazar male.
The seeds grew huge twice the size of a regular.
Now I got an idea to breed this F1 generation to fully auto just to see what I could get out of these geens. I expected to see smaller plant than afghan but biger than purple mazar and hoped to see some purple in it and not much of differences in the F1.
What happened came suprise to me. F1 generation showed sex in 6 weeks, and stretch more than twice the size in blooming state and grew taller than its parents. And is now started to show some purple coloration.
All 4 plants I germinated turn out female so i took some clones from 3 most intresting one.
1# is very strong and vigorous girl with thick stem and good bushy structure and huge main cola (compered to its parrents) but no purple.
2# is little bit scrawnier but has nice purple tint in it.
3# looks much like 2# but has more dence lower braching.
4# was the slowest to show sex but otherwise the same as 2&3.
I'll try to make fem seeds out of the clones and hopefully get them in time for the summer for outdoor selection.
I made a mendelian crossing chart and if i have understand correctly the resessive features of these plants i will end up finding 3 out of 16 are autoflowers and allso are bigger than the one I used to pollinate Afghan mothers.
Now here I would appreciate opinion and knowledge from more experienced breeder's: Is the bigger size of an photo perioid parent dominant compeared to rudealis? and if so how can I identify plant with 2 dominant (bigger zize) genes from the one that has one dominant and one resessive?
Or maybe I just pic all autos from F2?

Thank you for your help and patience with the beginner.



- Purple Rain
 
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All that beeding stuff is way over my head but it looks like your doing well and having fun.Maybe somtime in the future you will develope your own super auto.Good luck to you and keep up the good work.
 
Well buddy, I had you a nice reply typed up but when backspacing, my fucking browser decided I wanted to go BACK, and deleted a long ass reply I've been typing for an hour. So from now on I'll answer it in short chunks lol

Photoperiodism is dominant to autoflowering. You will have to inbreed your line to see about 1 out of 4 plants autoflower at the F2. I suggest to grow out a bunch of F2s so that you have a good selection of your autoflowering phenotypes to choose from. However, when breeding for your autoflowering trait, you will see a vast range of ages at which they autoflower. Some as short as 10 days, and some maybe as long as 40 days from sprout. Choosing both parents from either extreme will make that relatively stable by the F3. So if you find male and female that both auto at 30 days, you will change the standard deviation from a huge range (between 10 and 40 days from sprout) to a much smaller range with selection ( maybe 25-35 days from sprout). It is very possible to make a big plant that still autoflowers.
 
Thanks namvet. To develope my own monster zize auto is a realm that i would like to come true, but in this project my first goal is to make it auto with some caracteristics of an afghan and make it stable. just gotta get those F2's first.
 
How can i determine a plant with two dominant genes (homozygous dominant) from a plant with two different genes (heterozygous) from a plant with two recessive genes (homozygous recessive)?

Good question! Mendel had the SAME EXACT question back in his day, so your brain is definitely on the right track. What you are trying to figure out is if your plant is true breeding for a particular trait. True breeding is either homozygous dominant or recessive because the heterozygote can pass on two separate phenotypes while the homozygotes can only pass on one. So how do you check this? Several methods with cannabis. The best (even though it only works on photoperiod plants) is to clone the mother, turn the clone into a hermaphrodite, and pollinate the mother. If you are looking at 3 traits - smell, plant structure, and color, once we grow out the selfed seeds we will know which traits the plant breeds true for. So, for example, when your affy is selfed, you see nothing but bush phenotypes and no single colas. You can therefore say that it is true breeding for the bushy phenotype. However, all of the bushes have a different smell - so you now know your plant ISN'T true breeding for smell. And- only a few of your bushes are purple - so now you know that it isn't true breeding for purple either.
 
So, I can't make a self pollinated line because my female is an autoflower. How do I determine if it is homozygous dominant, heterozygous, or homozygous recessive for a given trait? This is where, as breeders, we have to do what is called a back cross. This is where you take one of the offspring and cross it back to one of the parents (in autoflowers this is usually male pollen).

If you back cross one of the offspring to either parent you have several possible outcomes. If your parent is true breeding for a dominant trait- all of the offspring between the parent and offspring will be one phenotype.

If you backcross one of the offspring to a parent and in the seeds you see a 1:1 ratio of dominant to recessive traits, you can conclude that the parent was homozygous recessive.

If you backcross one of the offspring to a parent and in the seeds you see a 3:1 ratio of dominant to recessive you can conclude that the parent was heterozygous for that trait.

You can also backcross one of the offspring to a parent and you may see a new phenotype show up in 1/2 of the plants, while 1/4 will be dominant and 1/4 will be recessive. This is a situation where the two alleles aren't dominant over eachother, but combine to make a new phenotype. This is what I personally have observed from autoflower x photoperiod crosses. About half will start flowering early to mid july, with the rest either autoflowering or flowering early to mid-august like usual.
 
So This is exactly what I was looking for. a good feedback from breeders. Thank you mattinuk3!
I'm feeling you with the all the effort wasted because of your browser. It's so frustrating.
 
And now it happened me to. been typing all most an hour... all gone
 
Main thing was I dont have males from F1 so I'm going to fem them to get F2. and grow them out in the wilderness. At the same time I germinate the rest of the F1's and hope to get good male pollen. So in The end of summer I should have 2/4 seeds that will be fully auto and half of the autos are homozygous with the wanted qualities and other half heterozygous.
Thanks again mattinuk3 info about flovering times will be wery usefull in the future.
 
Hey I was thinking about my reply about backcrossing all day and realized I didn't answer it all the way. I went up there and edited it, now the information should be more or less correct.
 
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