Advanced nutrients PH perfect

[SparkzAuto]

Once you're up to full bang it'll pull right to 5.9-6.0 in my experience but I haven't run rdwc so you may need to tweak a bit here and there. Good luck, and I'm sure some of the dwc pros will chime in. I know @Mañ'O'Green is a very knowledgeable hydro grower.

Yes, AN suggests using their products in water with less than 10 PPM. They used to say 50 PPM but it changed a fer years ago. Yes that high of a PH would make me question what is going on?

What is the source of your water? If you are on municipal water you should be able to get a water quality report online. We are mostly interested in the hardness and sanitation sections.

I would contact AN directly about that PH!

it was mixed into tap water that was left to stand for 24 hrs. Usually comes out the tap around 7-7.2.

 

[MrAutoGrower]

it was mixed into tap water that was left to stand for 24 hrs. Usually comes out the tap around 7-7.2.

Yeah just add ph down mate. Use warm water too. Helps dissolve the nutrients better and it seems to help with concentration.

 

[DCLXVI]

pH down. Tap water can have a lot of "stuff" in it that helps buffer and keep the pH stable, hence until you're using enough the pH perfect isn't strong enough to adjust it.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

it was mixed into tap water that was left to stand for 24 hrs. Usually comes out the tap around 7-7.2.

@SparkzAuto That PH is fairly normal for tap water. I need to know the hardness (calcium and magnesium) make up part of that. This can effect what is happening to your PH. I also always check for Ammonia in the sanitaion portion when looking at a water report. If it is in there then your water has chloramines and may need treatment. If you are not able to find it or don't want to share that information for security purposes I can start a PM to make it private.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

pH down. Tap water can have a lot of "stuff" in it that helps buffer and keep the pH stable, hence until you're using enough the pH perfect isn't strong enough to adjust it.

Yes this is true.

 

[LabRat]

Hi guys,

mixed up my first feed for my 8 autos today using AN PH perfect line. I went for 1/4 strength as there just under 2 weeks old.

Mixed the nutes into tap water that’s been sat out for 24 hours. After mixing my base nutes in I had an air stone in the res for half hour to mix it all up good, I then tested my Ph and it read 8.6. Now is that way too high to fill my system up with? I’ve read the PHperfect line has something in it that lets the plant uptake the nutes anywhere from 4-9 ph or whatever. I’m just worried as this is the first feed and I don’t want to ruin the plants from the ph being so high.

Also read somewhere that the “PH PERFECT” only works with RO water? And adding ph down will only cause more imbalances to my PH?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I've been using AN for 20 years. Long before it was made pH Perfect but only ever used RO or distilled water. The NPK of the 3-part now is a lot more dilute than the previous formula which is what the Jungle Juice 3-part is now without pH Perfect.

I saved a write up about this a while back so here's a copy.

I've been using AN 3-part for 20 years. I bought gal jugs about 5 years ago and just now noticed that the N-P-K ratios have changed but I've been using it just like the older stuff that has the same ratios as the Jungle Juice and the GH 3-part. This may explain some of the problems I've seen in flowering especially when I switch to Lucas Formula feeding after the stretch. I have 1L bottles of the older pre-pH Perfect 3-part and dug them out to check.

Old AN, JJ and GH are Grow - 2-1-6, Micro - 5-0-1, Bloom - 2-5-4

This 5 yo AN 3-part is Grow - 1-0-4, Micro - 2-0-0, Bloom - 1-3-4 (Has the Gorilla on the jugs)

Totally throws thing off to what I had become so accustomed to. I'm going to have to sit down and reformulate some of my mixes to be feeding each nute at the same ratios I was before. Much more diluted now too. With less than half the N as before it throws the Lucas feeding way off. No wonder the old leaves yellow out so fast and early.

I also have some REMO nutes from winning a 7 - 250ml bottle kit in a raffle at a hydro store I deal with and their ratios are different again.

G - 2-3-5
M - 3-0-1
B - 1-4-7

Flip a coin I guess or dust off the math books and nail it down.

If you must use tap water you should adjust it's pH to around 6.5 then add your nutes and don't screw with it after that. I found that my properly calibrated pH pen won't read the pH properly using these nutes so stopped checking and never had any pH issues in either DWC or my pot grown plants in mostly ProMix HP.

 

[Waira]

it was mixed into tap water that was left to stand for 24 hrs. Usually comes out the tap around 7-7.2.

- it's not the pH that's the most important factor here, it's EC/ppm load. Hard water has a lot of CaCO3 in it, which drives pH up because of it's interaction in solution... the carbonate is the active component here, it's what pH buffers water naturally... in soln, the CaCO3 is weakly soluble, acidity dissolves it *think limestone)... becomes Ca++ and CO3--, which very quickly snags a free H+ to become bicarbonate HCO3-, that's what's neutralizing acidity...
Hard water interferes with AN "self buffering", which works in solution only (doesn't apply anymore once in a medium like soil/soilless), hence their mandate that you use very low ppm water.)
Very hard water can accumulate a lot of mineral crap in a medium, and start screwing with pH as well as nutrient uptake (Ca excess messes with many other nute elements, have a look at pg.2 in the Deficiency Pic Depot in the Infirmary). In hydro, the higher ppm load also messes with uptake, and pH in particular... hydro is very bitchy about nute availability in solution, it's a very narrow window to work in; hydro always runs on the acidic side vs soil/soiless, adding to the challenge...
Also note that with RO/Di/very low ppm water, with the pH buffering minerals gone, it will swing wildly in pH with small inputs, having lost it's pH buffering capacity. This is why Ca-Mg is often added back in to help with this, or some nute lines have extra already in them. Don't bother pH'ing RO/Di water, it reads wonky because of how pH electrodes works... But even just sitting out, the CO2 in the air dissolving back into RO/Di water will start to show acidic, that's how sensitive it is!

... test your tap water for ppm/EC and let us know,... many folks get water from those self fill machines, much cheaper that way and it's very low ppm water... or get a small RO unit, that the best way to go,...