Each board draws 140w for a total of 560w with the complete setup. We did not include a dimmer but each board can be used separately to reduce light intensity if necessary. We find that most home growers don't own PAR meters and can run into trouble when adjusting light intensity blindly. We have a recommended hanging height for every stage of the plants life cycle for optimal growth.
We are running a 20% off sale for the month of February to promote the launch of this new brand. If you are interested after getting a taste of @bushmasterar15 progress, I recommend taking advantage of the sale. Let me know if you have any questions, I'd be happy to assist you.gimmegimmegimme! --those lights look phaaaat!
... the whole gig is prime time ready Bushy, now whatcha gonna run in there?
I'll be looking for a small Q-board light myself soon, so this will be a nice preview -
- @Nate @ Agro Lighting Welcome to AFN!
Thank you! Happy to be here! Loving the vibe here in this community so far! I'll be checking into this thread as often as I can to answer any questions that come up. Excited to see what these lights can do with some Autos.
I'll be looking for a small Q-board light myself soon, so this will be a nice preview -
:smoking: Cheers Nate, thank you.... I'll be giving it some serious thought, gotta do my savvy consumer homework first though!
...definitely! Auto's defy any sweeping generalization about light, feeding, temp's, even life cycle speed (that is bred in, "auto'ing" involves only going into bloom regardless of light hours, long or short)... No mystery there, just like regular photosensitive cultivars, right? 
I can only speak on our Lights, but we haven't seen any negative side effects or deficiencies due to our lighting. We work individually with every customer to ensure they are equipped with the knowledge to be successful when switching over to our lights. There certainly is a learning curve for not only folks switching over from HPS, but also from cheap white label LEDs. Nothing that can't be mitigated with a little help from us. The problem is with most lighting companies, they are not around after the purchase is made, and couldn't care less whether you're successful or not. This is certainly not our approach. Going back to your question about deficiencies, there are so many variables that it makes that question very tough to answer. We know that spectrum plays a huge part in different stages of the plants development and unless you are giving them everything they need in that regard you could run into some problems. You also have to take into account that if you are giving them optimal (usable) light, this will speed up photosynthesis and cause the plant to uptake nutrients more rapidly. Just as you see more growth with optimal light, you can also see the negative side effects happen a lot quicker if there are problems with feeding, watering, or environment. On the plus side, you are also able to identify problems a lot quicker when using quality LEDs due to the lack of yellow or blurple hue in your environment.:smoking: Cheers Nate, thank you.... I'll be giving it some serious thought, gotta do my savvy consumer homework first though!
I have a 4x2x5'h, which can only be run part of the year in a small outside courtyard starting around May... I run smaller pot volumes to allow for more cultivar variety, 3-4 plants max. This tends to end up with plants at variable heights and finish times, so I need multiple lights to allow for height adjustments and angling if needed. I have 2 AutoCOB's, which I plan to use for perimeters because of their very compact size, but the old 2-COB conversion a friend made for me a few years ago from the body of a Platinum rip-off brand is a noisome clunker. I want a Q-b to occupy center stage instead-
You're in fine hands with Bushy, so no worries there! LED's are fantastic of course, but folks new to them coming from HID or especially fluoro's have some learning curve to navigate... Often I find folks underestimate LED's actual "potency", erroneously using their eyes or other lighting as a comparative gauge which we know is bad news for anything PAR/PPFD related with LED in particular. Also, since heat is not an issue, symptoms of non-burn light stress are less obvious and often are mistaken as something else... Staff all harp on about following light distance recommendations because of this!
Something else I've been wondering about is the apparent elevated demand for Ca in LED's, given the frequency of grow showing defc. symptoms, not all of which can be accounted for by nutrition and other factors... I could be mistaken, but early gen' LED blurples, this seemed to be more common; with more and more full spectrum "white" lights, it doesn't seem to be as prevalent..? I don't know, but it sure begs the question if this is the case, or if it's because early on growers were just not used to working with LED and overblasting their plants... What's your take on this?
As for your 4x2x5, an FTG 2pack would be the perfect fit. They are designed for close proximity cultivation and would cover your canopy from edge to edge which when combined with LST will create a nice even canopy. You'll also have the freedom to connect them together for easy adjustment, or run them individually at different heights while still only taking up one outlet. You'll also be taking advantage of their thermal management capabilities while growing outdoors.
