Top canopy leaves discoloration?

[Littylovesdapiff]

38 day old lemon auto, this was my prized plant out of my 3 in my first grow, gave zero issues up to this point. Ff trio nutes, 50/50 oceanforest happyfrog mixed soil with 15% perlite in 3.6 gal air pots. Tsw2000 slowly worked up to 18 in from canopy at 65% now. 71-77 degrees 55-62 rh .Been giving ph 6.5 tap water every 3-4 days and recharge once a week all the way up to day 23. Tap water is dechlorinated and doesnt register on my bluelabs Conductivity pen. My other lemon auto which is 2 days younger in the same exact conditions started having a calcium deficiency 3 weeks in which has been corrected so i decided at day 23 to give 1/4 strength calmag (.5 ml) to prevent this in my #1 producer along with 1/8 strength micro (2ml) at ppm level of 221 ph to 6.8. She was happy and started flowering and booming in growth. At day 32 i gave another feeding of 5 cups 6.5 ph | 1/8th strength (.3 ml)calmag| 1/8th strength (2 ml)micro| 1/8th strength (1.25 ml)veg nutes | 1/8th strength (1.25 ml) flower nutes. Didnt see any immediate changes but 2-3 days later i started noticing slight discoloration leaves just at the top of the canopy coinciding with what i think is a magnesium deficiency. All lower growth, even new growth coming out at the bottom isnt showing this discoloration. Day 36 was a recharge watering only at 6.6 ph, 6 cups with a bit over 1 cup of runoff that was 6.2 ph. Just did a Slurry test of soil resulted at 6.3 ph . I get a soil sample and put it between 2 solo cups where i mix in distilled water at 2:1 and 1:1, is this a correct way of testing soil ph? Am i right about the mag deficiency? Is it some sort of light stress? Too many different possibilities...What course of action should i take? Should i just chill the f out? Just trying to get ahead of problems and learn the proper way to do things. Thanks in advance

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

38 day old lemon auto, this was my prized plant out of my 3 in my first grow, gave zero issues up to this point. Ff trio nutes, 50/50 oceanforest happyfrog mixed soil with 15% perlite in 3.6 gal air pots. Tsw2000 slowly worked up to 18 in from canopy at 65% now. 71-77 degrees 55-62 rh .Been giving ph 6.5 tap water every 3-4 days and recharge once a week all the way up to day 23. Tap water is dechlorinated and doesnt register on my bluelabs Conductivity pen. My other lemon auto which is 2 days younger in the same exact conditions started having a calcium deficiency 3 weeks in which has been corrected so i decided at day 23 to give 1/4 strength calmag (.5 ml) to prevent this in my #1 producer along with 1/8 strength micro (2ml) at ppm level of 221 ph to 6.8. She was happy and started flowering and booming in growth. At day 32 i gave another feeding of 5 cups 6.5 ph | 1/8th strength (.3 ml)calmag| 1/8th strength (2 ml)micro| 1/8th strength (1.25 ml)veg nutes | 1/8th strength (1.25 ml) flower nutes. Didnt see any immediate changes but 2-3 days later i started noticing slight discoloration leaves just at the top of the canopy coinciding with what i think is a magnesium deficiency. All lower growth, even new growth coming out at the bottom isnt showing this discoloration. Day 36 was a recharge watering only at 6.6 ph, 6 cups with a bit over 1 cup of runoff that was 6.2 ph. Just did a Slurry test of soil resulted at 6.3 ph . I get a soil sample and put it between 2 solo cups where i mix in distilled water at 2:1 and 1:1, is this a correct way of testing soil ph? Am i right about the mag deficiency? Is it some sort of light stress? Too many different possibilities...What course of action should i take? Should i just chill the f out? Just trying to get ahead of problems and learn the proper way to do things. View attachment 1327844View attachment 1327845View attachment 1327846View attachment 1327847View attachment 1327848View attachment 1327849View attachment 1327850View attachment 1327851View attachment 1327852View attachment 1327853Thanks in advance

I do not see any magnesium problems. I do see some tip burn and a little N toxicity which tells me you may be feeding at the upper limits of what the plant needs.

 

[Littylovesdapiff]

I do not see any magnesium problems. I do see some tip burn and a little N toxicity which tells me you may be feeding at the upper limits of what the plant needs.

So that darker part of the center leave close to the bud sites are kinda normal? I was confused as tho i thought mag def started at bottom and traveled upwards. Thanks alot btw

 

[Littylovesdapiff]

I do not see any magnesium problems. I do see some tip burn and a little N toxicity which tells me you may be feeding at the upper limits of what the plant needs.

So today I found out that I have been an idiot when it comes to measuring out nute for feeds. You were right about the nute burn which at the time I didnt think it was a big deal since the plant seemed happy and is still happy, even after feeding it a gallons worth of micro and bloom nutes(1/4 strength) mixed into 6 cups of water which ended up more than 1/2 strength but not full strength. I even looked at the ppm which was 760 and still poured it in. My oh s#it moment was after i read the 1 cup runoff ppm of 1070 and 6.0 ph. Ive learned my lesson but now my question is, if the plant has a bad reaction, which it really hasnt other then a couple leaves getting the tips a little closer to burnt brown, should i flush it out, is so should i flush out with nutes in or just plain ph water? Sorry for bothering again.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

So today I found out that I have been an idiot when it comes to measuring out nute for feeds. You were right about the nute burn which at the time I didnt think it was a big deal since the plant seemed happy and is still happy, even after feeding it a gallons worth of micro and bloom nutes(1/4 strength) mixed into 6 cups of water which ended up more than 1/2 strength but not full strength. I even looked at the ppm which was 760 and still poured it in. My oh s#it moment was after i read the 1 cup runoff ppm of 1070 and 6.0 ph. Ive learned my lesson but now my question is, if the plant has a bad reaction, which it really hasnt other then a couple leaves getting the tips a little closer to burnt brown, should i flush it out, is so should i flush out with nutes in or just plain ph water? Sorry for bothering again.

No worries my friend. 760 is a bit too high ~500 PPM of nutrients (not counting your water) is about as high as you want to go. The soil will buffer some of that . You still want to get it down next time. Your run-off is a bit high but run-off from soil can have lechates that are from the minerals added to the soil. In other words they are highly inaccurate. Do not flush. Flushing can cause more problems than it solves with precharged soils.

Steady as she goes.

 

[Littylovesdapiff]

No worries my friend. 760 is a bit too high ~500 PPM of nutrients (not counting your water) is about as high as you want to go. The soil will buffer some of that . You still want to get it down next time. Your run-off is a bit high but run-off from soil can have lechates that are from the minerals added to the soil. In other words they are highly inaccurate. Do not flush. Flushing can cause more problems than it solves with precharged soils.

Steady as she goes.

Ok came home to this now, pistil hairs at the very top of 2 colas turning orange, and top leaves only yellowing, am i still good to let it be?

 

[Littylovesdapiff]

Another thing to note is i have turned the light intensity up yesterday to 75% at 18 inches, my lux meter was reading at 34000 at the brightest spot at 18 inches, and every time ive tried raising intensity to this level, seems to me a i have a new problem show up on the top leaves. Confusing to me because the manufacturer recommends 100% at 12 inches for flowering.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Another thing to note is i have turned the light intensity up yesterday to 75% at 18 inches, my lux meter was reading at 34000 at the brightest spot at 18 inches, and every time ive tried raising intensity to this level, seems to me a i have a new problem show up on the top leaves. Confusing to me because the manufacturer recommends 100% at 12 inches for flowering.

Most people equate nutrient burn/deficiencies with light burn - which does not happen with LEDs. The nutrient damage from weeks before shows up in early bloom when lights get changed. So this gets associated with what just got changed must have caused this problem.

What really happens is the increased photon energy gets absorbed by the leaves creating more energy for the plant (carbohydrates) so the plant needs more water for this process and to grow faster causing more nutrients than the plant needs gets pulled in with the water and the plant gets nutrient burns and lock-out deficiencies.

 

[Littylovesdapiff]

Most people equate nutrient burn/deficiencies with light burn - which does not happen with LEDs. The nutrient damage from weeks before shows up in early bloom when lights get changed. So this gets associated with what just got changed must have caused this problem.

What really happens is the increased photon energy gets absorbed by the leaves creating more energy for the plant (carbohydrates) so the plant needs more water for this process and to grow faster causing more nutrients than the plant needs gets pulled in with the water and the plant gets nutrient burns and lock-out deficiencies.

So then this all product of nutrient burn? Im planning on giving it ph water with recharge next watering and then a 1/8 strength feeding 3-4 days after that, does that sound good?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

So then this all product of nutrient burn? Im planning on giving it ph water with recharge next watering and then a 1/8 strength feeding 3-4 days after that, does that sound good?

Recharge will make things worse at this time. Recharge amplifies the nutrients in the pot by adding microbes and feeding the ones already in the pot. This in turn increases the nutrients available to the plant. You do not need that right now.