Olderfart does mixed grow in Sunshine #4, autopots, DIY lights, and DIY growdrobe.

El Cheapo constant current Colloidal Silver Generator.

As mentioned elsewhere in this blog, I am going to reverse my current Dinamed CBD Kush with colloidal silver. I made my first batch of CS with a small constant current voltage supply, but I overcooked it and produced amber-gold liquid rather than clear. I was having trouble with my multimeter reading current, and/or the current limiting function of the voltage supply was not functional. I will never know, because I inadvertently plugged the voltage supply in with reversed polarity, nothing happened for about half a second, and then I smelled the smoke. Yup, I fried it. And it can't be replaced before I need my CS.

So, back to the drawing board I went. Here is what I came up with, in schematic form (don't laugh too hard now :biggrin: ):

CS schematic.jpg


The power source is the battery from my rechargeable drill/driver set. I used 12 volts, anything from 9 to 24 or so would also work fine.

My multimeter is a cheapie I have had for years, any meter that will read in milliamps will suffice. Exactly how to connect for measuring small amperage varies between meters, but pay attention because the low amperage circuit is fused and limited to small amperages, usually something ~200-400 ma. And the fuses are not easily found if you fry them. My fuse now has tin foil around it as both fuses I have turned out to be dead, and again, no replacement possible before I need the CS.

The liter jar with the silver wire is the standard setup, lots of ways to do it, details not important here.

The tricky bit with this setup is the large plastic jar with water in it. Any non-conductive container will do, just as long as you can get the wires at least ~~3 inches or so apart. The water in the jar is used as a variable resistor which can be adjusted to attain the ~1 milliamp current ideal for producing colloidal silver. Adjustment of current is achieved by changing the amount of wire immersed in the water, and/or the distance between the wires - deeper immersion or closer spacing = more current. This is easily done if the wires are clipped to the side of the container with paper clips like the ones in the pic below. I initially thought that salt water would be needed to provide the needed conductivity, but it was far too conductive and did not permit milliamps to be lowered at all. I ended up just using my irrigation water at about 50EC. Any tap water would likely do the job straight out of the tap. If conductivity turns out to be too high, start with distilled, and add just enough tap water to allow easy adjustment of milliamps. In my final setup, the wires in the water were small gauge steel immersed about an inch into the water, and about three inches apart. This was just wire I had hanging around, pretty much any bare wire would do.

To operate the setup, I adjusted the depth of immersion to get ~1 ma, and periodically reduced immersion to get amperage back to 1 ma. The key here is that as silver builds up in the solution, conductivity and amperage gradually rise. If you let the amperage get too high, the size of silver particles produced goes up and effectiveness of the end solution goes down. So, you need to adjust the wires periodically to keep the amperage in target range. I found that starting at ~0.9 ma allowed me to re-adjust after a couple hours. The CS solution was done in about 8 hours. At least I think it is... There might be just the tiniest visible amber tint to it, the ppm meter reads ~25ppm (silver ppm will be ~~twice what the meter says) and the laser beam visibility is strong. Amperage was never more than about 1.5 ma, so colloidal silver should be good. We shall see. :)

Here is what the rig looked like in operation, absent the water and CS solution:

PB240048.JPG



And here is my fresh jar of CS:
PB240057.JPG



And may the laughter subside before ribs are damaged. :biggrin:

Fire away with questions if interested in this mischief.

And before someone rags on me about the shorted out fuse, no it is not a good idea, but risk in this low voltage/ low amperage setup is low if handled with care. Shorting the circuit would just instantly kill the meter, and since I needed the CS now, I took the risk. This old meter is nearing retirement anyway. But not there yet since it continues to survive and function in spite of me.

Happy CSing peeps. :pighug:

And lest anyone doubt the results, here are her balls a few weeks later:

2020-12-19-14.54.38 ZS DMap.jpg


And, here is the first seed I found in the lady fertilized by pollen from the above reversal:
first seed.jpg


The seed was in the one flower base I could not resist checking when I chopped the non-pollenated colas today. I am sure there are many more, but they will be staying where they are for a while yet.

Bottom line is that the CS from this generator arrangement works well. Given the modest cost of the silver wire, and the volume of solution it can produce, making your own solution is a no brainer IMHO.

Comments

Looks like you might very well have sorted it out. Watching close and rooting for the crop!
 
Looks like you might very well have sorted it out. Watching close and rooting for the crop!
Thank you kindly. If both of us keep thinking good thoughts...

I took the two problem plants out today and removed a bag of dead fans and probable larf. The thinking being that I don't have a lot of producticve fans left, so more light penetration and less energy diverted to larf might be good.

At any rate, the decision was made, so we shall see. Thanks for checking in @olegren, and good luck with your grow. :pighug:
 
FWIW, After trying all the different types of recommended germination methods none with 100%, and some where I simply damaged the seedling while transferring it, I have finally settled on a method, that sort of had me laughing to myself because it is as simple as it can possibly get. I did a lot of thinking about why people soak, and why they put it between wet tissue and so forth and my reasoning told me that perhaps I should just put an unsoaked dry seed directly into an Eazy Plug. About 2mm below the surface and cover the hole with a tiny bit of the plug torn off from a corner. Sprouts in 3 to 4 days, like clockwork.

Welp, ever since it's been a 100% success rate and I can't see any point in making it more complex. That's what I've come to anyway. My thinking was that since the Eazy Plug after it's been allowed to soak up some water, remains the perfect environment, it doesn't dry out nor can it drown the seed. And the Eazy Plug protects the new root while it establishes itself.
 
Glad you have things turned around @Olderfart . I was surprised to see EC @600 to 700 for flowering autos. Just seemed way low to me for all my auto grows as i was usually around 1200 to 1400 with a bit of leave tip burn.
 
FWIW, After trying all the different types of recommended germination methods none with 100%, and some where I simply damaged the seedling while transferring it, I have finally settled on a method, that sort of had me laughing to myself because it is as simple as it can possibly get. I did a lot of thinking about why people soak, and why they put it between wet tissue and so forth and my reasoning told me that perhaps I should just put an unsoaked dry seed directly into an Eazy Plug. About 2mm below the surface and cover the hole with a tiny bit of the plug torn off from a corner. Sprouts in 3 to 4 days, like clockwork.

Welp, ever since it's been a 100% success rate and I can't see any point in making it more complex. That's what I've come to anyway. My thinking was that since the Eazy Plug after it's been allowed to soak up some water, remains the perfect environment, it doesn't dry out nor can it drown the seed. And the Eazy Plug protects the new root while it establishes itself.
Pretty much where I am now at, although I still like an initial soak and paper towel time to allow development of the initial tap root, which quickly confirms whether a seed is good.

The only reason that I might choose a transfer cup instead is because it would allow a bit more development before transplant into the final container, and this could be done under a clear cover on my heat mat.

OTOH, it is hard to argue against how the roots on my cbd girl developed. It would be nice to see a serious comparison, but I am not set up to do it, clones and a larger grow space being minimum requirements.

Thanks for chiming in, good to hear that someone else here is thinking along the same lines. :pighug:
 
Glad you have things turned around @Olderfart . I was surprised to see EC @600 to 700 for flowering autos. Just seemed way low to me for all my auto grows as i was usually around 1200 to 1400 with a bit of leave tip burn.
Yeah, my initial feeds were too low. I am pretty sure that I was starving them for quite a while, and the damage to the two older plants was remarkable. What I think I learned from the experience, aside from the EC levels needed, is that by the time significant symptoms show up, a hell of a lot of damage has already been done, and it will take multiple days after correcting before damage stabilizes. Put another way, reading the plants is a great idea for fine tuning, but major screwups like mine are far more difficult to identify early enough to avoid significant damage.

The reason that I was keeping feed levels down in the first place is that I was concerned that the autopot/fabric pot combo does not allow runoff, and salt buildup is a definite threat. I just went too far with it, and by the time symptoms showed up, a lot of damage had been done. The fact that initial symptoms were so ambiguous did not help either.

Every grow is a learning experience... :biggrin:
 
Yeah, my initial feeds were too low. I am pretty sure that I was starving them for quite a while, and the damage to the two older plants was remarkable. What I think I learned from the experience, aside from the EC levels needed, is that by the time significant symptoms show up, a hell of a lot of damage has already been done, and it will take multiple days after correcting before damage stabilizes. Put another way, reading the plants is a great idea for fine tuning, but major screwups like mine are far more difficult to identify early enough to avoid significant damage.

The reason that I was keeping feed levels down in the first place is that I was concerned that the autopot/fabric pot combo does not allow runoff, and salt buildup is a definite threat. I just went too far with it, and by the time symptoms showed up, a lot of damage had been done. The fact that initial symptoms were so ambiguous did not help either.

Every grow is a learning experience... :biggrin:
I went through the same thing with some clones I grew a few months ago. Starved them and then they slowly made a decent recovery. Good thing mine were photoperiods and I could let them veg longer.
Onward and upward. :watering:
 
Yeah, my initial feeds were too low. I am pretty sure that I was starving them for quite a while, and the damage to the two older plants was remarkable. What I think I learned from the experience, aside from the EC levels needed, is that by the time significant symptoms show up, a hell of a lot of damage has already been done, and it will take multiple days after correcting before damage stabilizes. Put another way, reading the plants is a great idea for fine tuning, but major screwups like mine are far more difficult to identify early enough to avoid significant damage.

The reason that I was keeping feed levels down in the first place is that I was concerned that the autopot/fabric pot combo does not allow runoff, and salt buildup is a definite threat. I just went too far with it, and by the time symptoms showed up, a lot of damage had been done. The fact that initial symptoms were so ambiguous did not help either.

Every grow is a learning experience... :biggrin:
Bro you said it if your not learning your about to be bit lol great job though on the seeds they look super good and a cbd harvest also. I forget if you said but are you going to extract any to make rso or something? I really love a 1to1 thc/cbd by far wat I prefer and I found mixing a pure cbd strain with normal variety to give me the same effect. I hope to grow some cbd this year outdoors.
 
Bro you said it if your not learning your about to be bit lol great job though on the seeds they look super good and a cbd harvest also. I forget if you said but are you going to extract any to make rso or something? I really love a 1to1 thc/cbd by far wat I prefer and I found mixing a pure cbd strain with normal variety to give me the same effect. I hope to grow some cbd this year outdoors.
Yes, the whole idea of growing the pure cbd strain was to be able to combine with THC strains to play with ratios. I will do this with coconut oil extract for sure so that I can make a salve for my wife who may be able to use it for relief of joint pain, and I may just mix a bit in the grinder to see how it works with other strains in a vaporizer. I might try tincture at some point if I can ever get down to the US to pick up some everclear.

Thanks for checking in Fitzy. :pighug:
 
No worries mate, the blogs work better for the grower's record, but sadly not for the readers. Not sure what I will do for the next one. Maybe both a blog and a grow journal. It wouldn't be a lot of extra effort to throw the basics in a separate grow thread and leave the details to the blog.

Thanks for checking in @Trichome farmer. :pighug:
 
mmm, my apologiez brotato chip :toke: u actually shoulda made it into the club a long time ago, lol, but hey, i smoke weed & ur name simply got lost in the shuffle that is me brain, so...:coffee: :rolleyes2: welcome to the club! :headbang: ppp
No worries at all my friend. I just didn't bother with it earlier. Not a big deal for me one way or the other.

Anyway, thanks for the prompt response, and for all your effort helping keep AFN friendly and fun.

Cheers mate! :cheers:
 

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