Before reading further you should be aware that although I call this an automated system, there is still one thing holding me back from being 100% and that's adjusting the light heights. I'm lucky enough to have a garden carer I fully trust to be called upon when I need the lights raising. If anyone know's of a system that will automate light distance above the canopy without human intervention, please let me know, I've looked looooong and hard and can't find anything (maybe SunSystems could make a wifi app enabled version of their Sun Hoist?).
So to start on the automated path to freedom, here is a list of items required. Most importantly on the top of the list is AutoPots and BioTabs. This system is purely designed around using them together as the reservoir is constantly full.
Note that a few things are a given, like mains electric, mains water and wifi where you decide to grow.
Also please note that this hasn't been the cheapest setup but it works for me VERY well. I'm also not advertising or suggesting you should buy any of the kit illustrated below, this is just what I use and is for educational purposes only.
So that's the basic requirements for an automated system. Next is environment monitoring. It's not essential by any means but you'll soon realise that keeping your environment in that VPD sweet spot massively increases quality and yield of your beloved girls.
and let's not forget how we keep track of our system while away from it. Some maybe paranoid about doing this but I find it secure enough and I could do without it.
Lastly is medium and nutrients.
There's one other item I have hanging in my tent but I'm not 100% sure it makes any difference but I spend the extra in case it really does.
Here's what I mean: Note that this is an old picture without the smart plugs yet.
Position your humidifier and tube heaters and connect to their respective INKBIRD controller. I have my HR-15 centre stage at the rear of the tent with the INKBIRD sensor hanging at canopy level near the door. The tube heaters are either side of the tent on the floor.
Setting up AutoPots Chronic's way:
Assuming you have AutoPots and airdomes already, for this you'll need:
Thanks for reading. I hope it's helped you on your journey.
Regards,
Chronic
So to start on the automated path to freedom, here is a list of items required. Most importantly on the top of the list is AutoPots and BioTabs. This system is purely designed around using them together as the reservoir is constantly full.
Note that a few things are a given, like mains electric, mains water and wifi where you decide to grow.
Also please note that this hasn't been the cheapest setup but it works for me VERY well. I'm also not advertising or suggesting you should buy any of the kit illustrated below, this is just what I use and is for educational purposes only.
- Tent: I use a 120 x 120 x 200 (4x4 in imperial measures). I got mine on fleebay cheaper than it was in the shop.
- AutoPots: the 4 (15ltr) pot starter kit with reservoir is ideal for this size tent.
- Fill/flush valve - side entry (same as in your toilet).
- Washing machine hose (to connect your mains water supply to your fill valve).
- Smart plugs (I use 4x TPLink HS110).
- INKBIRD Controllers: ITC-306T and IHC-200
- Humidifier (I use the HR-15. You'll need to get one that has a reservoir with a stop float).
- 2 x 90cm (3ft) 180W tube radiators (most are 135W so hunt around. Again I found mine on fleebay "Hausen Electric Tubular Greenhouse Heater")
- SMSCOM 6.5A fan controller
- Extraction fan with filter and ducting (I use an RVK Sileo 150E2 with acoustic ducting and Rhino Pro filter)
- Circulation fan
- Lights (I use ChilLED Logic Puc v2 by GrowMau5)
- Oh... and of course at least 2 extension leads (I suggest 6 gang)
So that's the basic requirements for an automated system. Next is environment monitoring. It's not essential by any means but you'll soon realise that keeping your environment in that VPD sweet spot massively increases quality and yield of your beloved girls.
- Pulse One
and let's not forget how we keep track of our system while away from it. Some maybe paranoid about doing this but I find it secure enough and I could do without it.
- IP camera/s (I use 2 x Netgear's ArloQ)
Lastly is medium and nutrients.
- BioTabs (get the full line up including Siliciumflash) - Also worth noting they do a FANTASTIC 420 deal that can set you up for a whole year (usually 40% off). Well worth saving up for
- BioBizz Lite Mix (already has perlite added. Approx. 70/30 mix)
- Expanded clay pebbles (I use Hydrocorn as it's easy for me to get)
There's one other item I have hanging in my tent but I'm not 100% sure it makes any difference but I spend the extra in case it really does.
- CO2 bag (I use Exhale)
- Firstly, erect your tent in a suitable sized space. Remember that it should be in a protected area with easy access to mains electric and water within wifi reach. I have mine in the garage which is insulated. If it gets too cold in there maybe consider somewhere a little warmer so the heaters aren't working flat out.
- Next will be to position your extraction fan. There are a couple of ways to do this.
- The first is as I have done which is to hang the fan at the top of the tent with ducting running out of the tent. Connect the filter so the direction of airflow sucks through the filter then fan and out of the tent.
- The second is to have the fan outside the tent. So run your ducting from the top of the tent again and have the fan and filter somewhere stable outside the tent with the direction of airflow pushing through the filter.
Either way is good but most people go for option 1.
- Once you've got your extraction sorted it's onto electrics. You'll need at least 2 extension blocks. Remember the Smart plugs and SMSCOM are quite chunky so better to get 6 gang blocks.
- The first will be mounted to the top of the tent for your lights, one of your IP cameras and your oscillating fan.
- The second will be mounted anywhere that's convenient. I have mine on a strip of wood about 3/4 the way up the back. By mounting it on wood it allows you to hang the second IP camera and both INKBIRD controllers alongside. This way if you're home you can crack the zip open and pear through at the displays without effecting environmental changes too much.
So now your power supply is in your grow room it's time to start connecting your system. This is how I have it so please don't take this as gospel. If you find a better way then please use that.
Extension lead 1: Back wall
- As the extraction fan is already in place, we'll start there. Plug the SMSCOM into the extension lead and set the temp (right dial) that you want to increase extraction rate at. I have mine set to 30C. Then set your extraction rate (left dial). Mine is set around 1/3 full power. Finally, connect the extraction fan plug.
- Next plug in 2 of the smart plugs and connect to your desired wifi network. Hang both of the INKBIRD controllers. Plug the HUMIDIFIER controller into one of the smart plugs (this allows you to turn off the humidifier from anywhere so you can keep in the VPD sweet spot). Now you'll need to programme the IHC-200 to start (I usually have it set at 75% with a variance of 1%).
- Now plug in the ITC-306T controller (doesn't need a smart plug as it will self regulate). Programme to your desired temperature (I have mine at 25.5C with a variance of 1.5C).
- Hang an IP camera and plug in to extension lead 2 (I use a dual USB socket to power both cameras).
Extension lead 2: Top of tent
- Run the extension lead and plug into the second smart plug in the back wall extension (I know you shouldn't daisy chain extension leads but there's not an excessive load (less than a kettle) and by doing it this way you can monitor the total kWhrs consumed by your entire setup). Set the smart plug for the hours of light you want.
- Hang your lights of choice and mount one of the IP camera's to the frame. Plug into extension lead 2. i also have a piece of string with a weight measured to 24" with a tape mark at 18" hanging from my light so I know when it's time to call my garden carer for a raise.
- Hang your oscillating fan. Plug into extension lead 2.
Now run extension lead 1 to the nearest mains plug and connect to your third smart plug. This smart plug is more of a safety measure as well as a monitoring device. I can turn the entire system off whenever I want from anywhere, but I can also measure the total kWh used by the whole system.
Position your humidifier and tube heaters and connect to their respective INKBIRD controller. I have my HR-15 centre stage at the rear of the tent with the INKBIRD sensor hanging at canopy level near the door. The tube heaters are either side of the tent on the floor.
So that's 90% of the electrics completed (airpump left) and now we move onto your AutoPot and humidifier system.- Firstly you'll need to modify the reservoir. I bought the 1/2" fill valve connector so I drilled a hole in the side about 3/4 the way up and connected. Like this:
- Run your washing machine hose from your mains water supply to where you'll keep your res. Make sure the res is significantly higher than the bottom of your pots for the gravity feed to work.
- Position your AutoPot trays in the tent and connect the 6mm hose that best fits your tent.
- Before you run the final length of 6mm hose to your res add an extra tee for your humidifier! The system is now linked; connect to your reservoir.
- Turn on your water supply and test your system for leaks - fix any leaks you may have before continuing. Don't forget to check water comes into each AutoPot tray and the humidifier.
- Each AutoPot will have an airdome in the bottom. Run enough clear 6mm hose to each pot (daisy chain) and out to your airpump.
- Run a second hose to your AutoPot res with an airstone at the end (this helps clear some of the chlorine in the mains water quicker)
- Plug in your airpump (you can use a smart plug if you like or connect to your existing electrics).
Setting up AutoPots Chronic's way:
Assuming you have AutoPots and airdomes already, for this you'll need:
- A 500ml pyrex jug for measuring medium
- Digital scales (suggest accuracy to 0.1g or better. Coffee scales are nice, cheap too)
- Set of measuring spoons
- BioBizz Light-Mix
- BioTabs starter kit and Siliciumflash
- Expanded clay pebbles
- Rubber bucket or large mixing bin
- Place an airdome in the bottom of a pot with the air hose attached (on top of the black matrix matt). Add enough expanded clay pebbles to the bottom of the pot until only the top of the airdome is visible and it's anchored in place. Sorry for stealing your picture Frogster
- I then place a plastic bag in the pot and count how many level 1/2ltr pyrex jugs of BioBizz it takes to fill to 1.5" below the rim (usually it's bout 9-10). The bag is then emptied into a rubber bucket (I only do this the first time to confirm the count. All other pot's medium is then mixed in the rubber bucket).
- I then add 1.5 level jugs of expanded clay pebbles to the mix. (I found the BioBizz didn't feel aerated enough so I added these to combat that).
- Then follow the BioTabs Just add water strategy. Not forgetting the additional Siliciumflash!
- Mix thoroughly and pour on top of the airdome. DO NOT push down, let gravity do it's thing.
- I then add 3 BioTabs spaced evenly about a fingers depth.
- Final stage is to pre soak. I place each pot in their (empty) trays. Get 1ltr fresh water and add Orgatrex and Bactrex. Pour evenly over one pot. Repeat this until all pots are watered.
- The humidifier is linked and I need to get my environment up to around 80% for the first two weeks.
- I'm rarely there to turn it on.
- The trays have overflowed if I turn on when top watering.
Thanks for reading. I hope it's helped you on your journey.
Regards,
Chronic