Yellowing tips, lime green leaves. Im stumped.

[briefbriefs]

Hi! Ive got a 32 day old (flowering stage for 3 days) Hubbabubbasmelloscope that needs your help.

Symptoms:
- lime green leaves everywhere
- had cal-mag deficiencies. ive since added calmag, but plants may still be deficient? (calmag is Botanicare Calmag Plus 2-0-0)
- starting to develop yellowing leaf tips

Light:
- HLG 225 hung @ 22" for 43,000 lux at the canopy.

Medium:
- Autopot 2.2gal with coco (50 coco/50 perlite)

Feed:
- Silica @ 0.5ml/gal (i add to water, wait an hour, then pH down to 7)
- CalMag (2ml / gal)
- Mega Crop (1.75g / gal)
- Bud Explosion (0.63g / gal)
- Flying Skull Z7 [enzyme to keep reservoir clean) (0.5ml / gal)
TOTAL EC: 0.97 @ 5.9pH (last measurement was this morning)

I know its a bit too early to have my plant on Bud Explosion, but i have another plant (Zamaldelica Express) that is approximately a week further into flower that does benefit from the PK boost and since they're on the same Autopot reservoir, i want the ZE to get that boost.

Does the HBSS look like its hungry? Or is it potentially the lights? Im most concerned about those yellowing tips...Any help would be amazing. Thanks so much all!

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Feed those girls they are starving. By week 4 I am feeding 750 PPM not counting my water. 3 to 4 g per gallon of Mega Crop.

 

[Olderfart]

Yup, lime green, as you expected, was a hint. The girls need more feed. Mega Crop (1.75g / gal) is not going to do the job during growth.

 

[Nosias]

Hi! Ive got a 32 day old (flowering stage for 3 days) Hubbabubbasmelloscope that needs your help.

Symptoms:
- lime green leaves everywhere
- had cal-mag deficiencies. ive since added calmag, but plants may still be deficient? (calmag is Botanicare Calmag Plus 2-0-0)
- starting to develop yellowing leaf tips

Light:
- HLG 225 hung @ 22" for 43,000 lux at the canopy.

Medium:
- Autopot 2.2gal with coco (50 coco/50 perlite)

Feed:
- Silica @ 0.5ml/gal (i add to water, wait an hour, then pH down to 7)
- CalMag (2ml / gal)
- Mega Crop (1.75g / gal)
- Bud Explosion (0.63g / gal)
- Flying Skull Z7 [enzyme to keep reservoir clean) (0.5ml / gal)
TOTAL EC: 0.97 @ 5.9pH (last measurement was this morning)

I know its a bit too early to have my plant on Bud Explosion, but i have another plant (Zamaldelica Express) that is approximately a week further into flower that does benefit from the PK boost and since they're on the same Autopot reservoir, i want the ZE to get that boost.

Does the HBSS look like its hungry? Or is it potentially the lights? Im most concerned about those yellowing tips...Any help would be amazing. Thanks so much all!
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What is your PH? And feed about 2.5 - 3 grams per gallon

 

[briefbriefs]

Feed those girls they are starving. By week 4 I am feeding 750 PPM not counting my water. 3 to 4 g per gallon of Mega Crop.

Yup, lime green, as you expected, was a hint. The girls need more feed. Mega Crop (1.75g / gal) is not going to do the job during growth.

You got it! mixing up a new batch of nutes as we speak. Since im at around 1.75gpg im thinking raising it to 2.5 is better than jumping straight to 3gpg? I dont wanna shock the girls (plus the Zam strain is super nute sensitive). What do ya'll think about the PK boost right now? Is it too much? THe older one is in day 15 of flower (just tons of pistils, no buds forming yet).

What is your PH? And feed about 2.5 - 3 grams per gallon

pH is at 5.9 =]

 

[Olderfart]

You got it! mixing up a new batch of nutes as we speak. Since im at around 1.75gpg im thinking raising it to 2.5 is better than jumping straight to 3gpg? I dont wanna shock the girls (plus the Zam strain is super nute sensitive). What do ya'll think about the PK boost right now? Is it too much? THe older one is in day 15 of flower (just tons of pistils, no buds forming yet).



pH is at 5.9 =]

Your EC/ppm meter is your friend. You do not want to change the EC more than about 300 EC (NOT PPM!) at a time, and give them a few days for each increment if you need more than one. The issue here is the total EC of the final mix, so if you can make room for more EC from the megacrop base by reducing something else, or moving to RO water, you could consider that. If it was me, I would ditch the BE to make room for more base nute. The BE will only make a small difference to the advanced plant, but starving the other one will probably hurt more.

Balancing needs of one plant with the sensitivities of another can be a chore - one of the disadvantages of a common autopot reservoir. Bottom line is don't overdo it for the sensitive plant(s), and it is the final EC of the entire mix that you want to avoid changing too much. The issue is the osmotic environment of the roots. They adjust to the osmotic pressure of soil moisture, and changing it a lot means that they have to overhaul their adaptation measures, which can can set them back for a few days, or worse if you really screw up.

If you have or can quickly get some ammonium nitrogen, you could help the light green plant out with a foliar application. Foliar does not, as I understand it, work with the more common nitrate form of nitrogen. Raw sells a pure nitrogen source that is all ammonium form that would work with a bit of yucca. If your local hydro shop has some, grab a supply and try foliar on the limey.

 

[briefbriefs]

Your EC/ppm meter is your friend. You do not want to change the EC more than about 300 EC (NOT PPM!) at a time, and give them a few days for each increment if you need more than one. The issue here is the total EC of the final mix, so if you can make room for more EC from the megacrop base by reducing something else, or moving to RO water, you could consider that. If it was me, I would ditch the BE to make room for more base nute. The BE will only make a small difference to the advanced plant, but starving the other one will probably hurt more.

Balancing needs of one plant with the sensitivities of another can be a chore - one of the disadvantages of a common autopot reservoir. Bottom line is don't overdo it for the sensitive plant(s), and it is the final EC of the entire mix that you want to avoid changing too much. The issue is the osmotic environment of the roots. They adjust to the osmotic pressure of soil moisture, and changing it a lot means that they have to overhaul their adaptation measures, which can can set them back for a few days, or worse if you really screw up.

If you have or can quickly get some ammonium nitrogen, you could help the light green plant out with a foliar application. Foliar does not, as I understand it, work with the more common nitrate form of nitrogen. Raw sells a pure nitrogen source that is all ammonium form that would work with a bit of yucca. If your local hydro shop has some, grab a supply and try foliar on the limey.

thank you!! As it happens, after adjusting my nutes to about 2.5gpg of MC and 0.8gpg of BE I’ve come out to a difference of 260 additional EC levels. So...I think we may be set? We’ll see in a couple of days! I really really appreciate your advice and help!
:smoking:

 

[Olderfart]

thank you!! As it happens, after adjusting my nutes to about 2.5gpg of MC and 0.8gpg of BE I’ve come out to a difference of 260 additional EC levels. So...I think we may be set? We’ll see in a couple of days! I really really appreciate your advice and help!
:smoking:

Sounds about right, good luck with the results.

 

[briefbriefs]

Sounds about right, good luck with the results.

thank you! Also in your experience how long does it take for the plant to show a reaction/improvement to a change in nutes? I’m trying to gauge how long to wait before deciding to increase feed strength.

 

[Olderfart]

thank you! Also in your experience how long does it take for the plant to show a reaction/improvement to a change in nutes? I’m trying to gauge how long to wait before deciding to increase feed strength.

I'm not enough of an expert to be certain, but absent better advice from one of the gurus here, I would expect plant color to improve at least a little in two or three days, and in that time, you should also get enough new growth to see how healthy it is.

If your older leaves exhibit worsening problems or the new growth is absent or unhealthy in two or three days, I would suspect a continuing problem.

Take that for the noob opinion that it is.