Sweet Seeds What is F1 Fast Version

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What is a F1 fast version of some of the seeds from Sweet Seeds. How different are they from the original strain. Are they stable or a host of phenotypes. Just curious, I love creme caramel auto and wonder what the differece would be with the F1 fast version.
 
I believe F1 FV are faster flowering photoperiod genetics.
 
Yup, the marketing has unintentionally hosed a couple folks that thought they were just "faster-still" autos....
 
Being a F-1, they cannot be auto. F-1 of a auto and a photo, will result in a 25% chance of the offspring being auto. Fast F-1 to me means Photo period that finishes in less that the average of a 8 week photo for bloom. I could be wrong, but someone with some breeding experience will chime in shortly.
 
HM- Trapper say's true! I think they might have come about during full auto development,... from what I've seen, one can get plants that are intermediate in their photo-response...? You can always ask the Sweet guys, Tommy and Jaypp for specifics,... I grew a Green Poison FV last season, started in-pot the beginning of Aug.- :no:-I know, whahhh?! LOL! -- She was done in 3 months! :coffee2: She was an indoor/outdoor plant for about 6+ weeks, then went OD full time.. light hours were still about 13hrs...she insisted on growing more side branching for less than 2 weeks, then went into bloom, which lasted only 4 weeks! :dance2: The speed of bud development was fantastic,... total hoot to watch! She finished a bit over 3' tall, and yielded over an oz of super dense and sticky bud, with a kaffir lime and lychee fruit aroma,... :drool: Ass-kicking potency too! Sweet has some of their best strains as FV versions, and their whole line-up is top shelf, every one,... My observations were she needed only a slight drop in light hours to trigger blooming, but she still wanted a certain amount of maturity before she went into bloom... then, she smoked her tires the whole way to harvest! I highly recommend the FV line if you want something a bit bigger and faster, a little closer to the photo version in terms of characteristics, and don't mind a couple extra weeks vs. a full auto in grow time.... :Cool bud:
 
Being a F-1, they cannot be auto. F-1 of a auto and a photo, will result in a 25% chance of the offspring being auto. Fast F-1 to me means Photo period that finishes in less that the average of a 8 week photo for bloom. I could be wrong, but someone with some breeding experience will chime in shortly.


F1 auto x photo will be 100% photo. F2 is where you see 25% autos
 
Just wondering (i'm no expert here) if a pure bred auto was crossed with another pure bred auto wouldn't that make an f1 auto and the fastness would be in part due to hybrid vigor. I'm not sure why it is assumed a cross has to include photoperiod genetics (unless of course you know the strains used to make the cross, but they haven't been named in this thread, so I am in the dark if this is the case), surely it is possible to have 2 pure bred lines of auto to make a F1 auto. If someone buys seed and tries to to produce seed from F1 stock is will when inconsistencies occur as the breeder is the only person who has the 2 pure lines to make the F1 seed..

I supply a couple of articles I found online which gave me an understanding of this ( though I think you need 2 pure bred lines to get the desired results)

Heterosis, hybrid vigor, or outbreeding enhancement, is the improved or increased function of any biological quality in a hybrid offspring. The adjective derived from heterosis is heterotic.
An offspring exhibits heterosis if its traits are enhanced as a result of mixing the genetic contributions of its parents. These effects can be due to Mendelian or non-Mendelian inheritance.(copied & pasted Wikipeadia)





F1 Hybrid. What is it?


Often the most expensive seed varieties in the catalogues are labelled as F1 hybrids. This article explains what F1 hybrids are and assesses their advantages and disadvantages

We often see F1 hybrid seeds in catalogues and, nearly as often, we wonder what exactly they are. Even more intriguing is the question: 'Is an F2 better than an F1?'

The simplest way to define an F1 hybrid is to take an example. Let us say a plant breeder observes a particularly good habit in a plant, but with poor flower colour, and in another plant of the same type he sees good colour but poor habit. The best plant of each type is then taken and self-pollinated (in isolation) each year and, each year, the seed is re-sown. Eventually, every time the seed is sown the same identical plants will appear. When they do, this is known as a 'pure line'.

If the breeder now takes the pure line of each of the two plants he originally selected and cross pollinates the two by hand the result is known as an F1 hybrid. Plants are grown from seed produced and the result of this cross pollination should have a good habit and good colour.

This is the simplest form of hybridisation; there are complications, of course. A completely pure line can sometimes take seven or eight years to achieve. Sometimes, a pure line is made up of several previous crossings to begin to build in desirable features and grown on until it is true before use in hybridisation.

To summarise, an F1 hybrid is the result of crossing two pure lines to achieve the desired result. This seems a lot of trouble to go to but there are definite advantages. Scientific and accurate breeding programmes have made it possible not only to bring out the outstanding qualities of the parent plants, but in most cases, these qualities have been enhanced and new desirable characteristics added to the resultant hybrid plants. In addition to qualities like good vigour, true-ness to type, heavy yields and high uniformity which hybrid plants enjoy, other characteristics such as earliness, disease resistance and good holding ability have been incorporated into most F1 hybrids. Uniform plant habit and maturity, coupled with uniformity in shape or size have made hybrid vegetables extremely suitable for mechanical harvesting.

We can't expect to get all these advantages for nothing. Because creating F1 hybrids involves many years of preparation to create pure lines and these pure lines have to be constantly maintained so that the F1 seed can be harvested each year, the seed is more expensive. The problem is compounded because to ensure that no self pollination takes place, all the hybridising of the two pure lines sometimes has to be done by hand. So you often have to pay more for your seed or get fewer in a packet. Seed is often collected by hand too to ensure that each plant is as productive as possible.
It is not only the gardeners who benefit, there are advantages for the plant breeders too.

With ordinary varieties anyone can grow them and collect the seed which can then be re-sown in the garden or, on a larger scale, sold. So a plant breeder who puts a lot of work into creating a variety which is not an Fl hybrid can soon find someone else selling it and getting a share of the financial reward. But seed collected from an Fl hybrid will not produce plants the same as those from which it is collected. Only by crossing the pure lines can the variety be made - and only the original breeder has the necessary pure lines.

So it works both ways. The gardener gets better, though more expensive, varieties and the plant breeder gets a reasonable return on the investment.

Lawrence D. Hills is the founder of the Henry Doubleday Foundation (now Garden Organic) and a renowned champion of organic gardening techniques.
Source of article
Growing From Seed - Winter 1989-90 Vol. 4 Number 1
Copied and pasted from The Seed Raising Journal from Thompson & Morgan


When I Buy and plant my F1 tomatoe seed all my plants are the same , showing the same growth pattern and the fruits look and taste the same and the same colour.

I know if I were to save the seed to plant next year all the plants would show different traits.

 
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