Started Flush P Deficiency? Late flower..K?

[MidSlotDinger]

Late flower issue here is some background info:
STRAIN: blue berry auto (Dutch passion)
Set up:
4x4x6.5 Mylar tent
LIGHTING
Top: 1000w morsen LED (double chip, infrared)+ Side: 4-6 CFLS
I run a 300 cfm exhaust fan pushing air out the top of the tent to create negative pressure. (Carbon filter on the end)
Temperature lights on: 78 degrees
Humidity lights on:40- 45%
Lights off: 70-65 degrees
Humidity: 50-55%

Oh and this is a First time Grow and my first post.

Water: RO 0ish ppm

Soil: happy frog w/30% added rinsed perlite


Nutrients:
Humbolt root enzymes, B52, Silica first week
Advance nutrients GMB starting week 2 and also cal mag
Added humbolt golden tree 0-0-2.25 Week 3
Started humbolt flower stacker 0-7-5 around week 6ish
And then began flushing at day 67 once I saw leaves start to yellow on this regimen at day 60. Flushed alternating Molasses and RO. Now it's day 73 and I'm getting concerned because his leaves have been getting progressively more purple, which did not happen when I flushed my other stains. Could this be from supplying too much K in molasses and not enough P? I was thinking of adding a tiny amt. powdered bone meal to up P, I don't want to reintroduce the flower stacker.

As of today, day 73 soil pH tested at 6.8 with rapid test so that's normal, I water when soil feels a little dry, never let him wilt. They are in 3 gallon smart pots so it's hard to over water.

Or do you think it will finish out ok if I continue to flush? I have seen other auto blueberries pictures even on the Dutch passion website turning purple, this could be a normal change? I think it is a Deficiency. Please let me know what you think based on pictures

 

[Padawan1972]

sounds good being your first grow..a picture is worth a thousand words.....there a ton of people here that are great at diagnosis, but they will ask the same thing....pictures can will always help them .


disregard the mentioning of needing pics..lol

 

[MidSlotDinger]

Yeah here's a pic of when they were babies. I started with one pandora, two think different and two blue berry. The pandora and think different I planted a week or two earlier so they're done and drying right now, I can post pics of those buds later they look great so far I'm very happy with my first Grow. I tested some think different that had only cured for 7 days at the most and it smells and smokes great, really like the sweet scent of that strain.

 

[MidSlotDinger]

Anyone? Sorry I was late with pics


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[Waira]

Mid'-- BB often expresses such colors, so I think this is normal,... she does look a little nute cooked, but that's past damage,... as for literal flushing (vs. "flushing" as in little to no nute's input prior to harvest), I advise to not do this unless there's a serious issue with off-pH or major nute burn, to save the plant,... flushing is a stress itself, you're waterlogging the soil badly, and it must be done fast to avoid causing root damage by suffocation,.... no need for that much perlite either,... That said, if you had cold nights, under 60F, this can also cause purpling of the leaves, normal as well,.. this can be in part to a minor P defc., as cool temp slow the uptake and metabolism of nutes,.... pH for soil is best at around 6.5-6.3, much past 6.8 you risk starting lockouts of certain micronutrients like Fe, Zn, Mn,....

 

[MidSlotDinger]

Mid'-- BB often expresses such colors, so I think this is normal,... she does look a little nute cooked, but that's past damage,... as for literal flushing (vs. "flushing" as in little to no nute's input prior to harvest), I advise to not do this unless there's a serious issue with off-pH or major nute burn, to save the plant,... flushing is a stress itself, you're waterlogging the soil badly, and it must be done fast to avoid causing root damage by suffocation,.... no need for that much perlite either,... That said, if you had cold nights, under 60F, this can also cause purpling of the leaves, normal as well,.. this can be in part to a minor P defc., as cool temp slow the uptake and metabolism of nutes,.... pH for soil is best at around 6.5-6.3, much past 6.8 you risk starting lockouts of certain micronutrients like Fe, Zn, Mn,....

My thought was that since it showed signs of nutrients burn towards the end of it's growth, I should just give the plant plain water until harvest since it's almost done anyways. The pH of my RO is 5.7 but the pH perfect nutrients I've been using seem to have kept me out of pH trouble. If the soil is 6.8 the RO should be fine. I have been alternating plain water and water with molasses and so far the plant is finishing normally right now, the purple color appears to be natural. It was very healthy and green up until recently. Next time to finish the plant out in its last weeks I think I will be using bone meal and molasses on non feeding days... that's basically just a light feed with P, K and Ca Mg with less harsh, natural nutrients. Just molasses loses out on Phosphorus and supplying all K causes P Deficiency now that I think on it. Thanks for the help I think everything is fine actually, just learning from my first Grow I'll be more patient to stop nutrients next time.


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[Arthur]

How much molasses? Very easy to kill your benificials... also I used molasses for years...but unless your prepping your soil for your next grow, molasses won't add anything to your current ladies. The molasses molecule is too large for the plant to uptake, and must be broken down by the soil before use. By the time its available to the plants, its on the compost heap. When I was using it, it was at 1/2 tbls per gal, once a week. PH test strip are honestly a shot in the dark, they'll get ya kinda close... like 1.0 kinda close... but way off if we're dealing in 0.1 variations.

 

[MidSlotDinger]

How much molasses? Very easy to kill your benificials... also I used molasses for years...but unless your prepping your soil for your next grow, molasses won't add anything to your current ladies. The molasses molecule is too large for the plant to uptake, and must be broken down by the soil before use. By the time its available to the plants, its on the compost heap. When I was using it, it was at 1/2 tbls per gal, once a week. PH test strip are honestly a shot in the dark, they'll get ya kinda close... like 1.0 kinda close... but way off if we're dealing in 0.1 variations.

I used indicator solution to test my pH.
Molasses, I used No more than 1/2 to a 1/4 table spoon, heat up a cup of water and mix it well, then add the mix to about 1 gal h20. I was told molasses feeds microbes in your soil only in spikes, having most of them die off once the extra sugar and salt is eaten up. I usually added beneficial enzymes and microbes with every other feed, so I figure adding population and food substrate would magnify the amount of time microbes were feeding and multiplying on any salts and shit in the soil. If nothing else, I think molasses can feed your soil with waterings.

As far as the plants uptake, I must admit I have to question the efficacy, what you're saying makes sense. It's not like chelated nutrients. Maybe making it into a tea would work?


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[Waira]

depending on how heavily you feed, starving out for week+ isn't wise either; sure, toward the end, nute demands are dropping especially P, but K plays a big role in aromatics and other critical metabolic processes, so after that flushing, stay on some light PK feeds...

molasses has Ca, Mg, some K and a little Fe in it, amounts vary depending on brand and refinement.... yup, the sugars do ramp up the herd some, which in turn cycles nutes better, which in turn benefits the plant,...
For soil/soilless, nothing beats measuring in-pot pH... I recommend the Accurate 8 soil pH probe for this,.. run-off testing is lousy in general! As for your solutions, a meter is always best,.. what exactly is the test kit you have, and it's resolution and range? Color rendering with nute solutions can make for bad reads,.... and Arthur makes a good point about the pH scale, which is logarithmic; a +/-1.0 jump on this scale is in fact a 10-fold increase/decrease, so decimals matter... Not that you have any apparent pH issue, just putting that out there