I can never get my spider mites under control . I sprayed them two weeks ago with an insecticide they use for killing mites in soybeans and I got them back 2 weeks later . I was thinking of running the temperatures very low and see if that was at least slow them down and I was wondering what you guys thought of just shutting the room down for a few months if that would help? Pulling my hair out. Thanks
Spider mites
- Thread starter Toddautoflower
- Start date
Spider mites are the shits. I can not think of a harder to get under control insect. You may be getting reinfested from outside your tent. Spider mites can live in ornamental houseplants and somehow don't seem to hurt the plant that much. You may be carrying them back into your tent unknowingly.
Wow, what was the name of the soybean insecticide you used? You have to be careful about residues and such beings you are ingesting this product into your body. Many agricultural chemicals have long residuals and can be very poisionous. I have used the "shut down the grow for awhile" method before with good results by eliminating any potential hosts in and out of the grow room. I would try using some repeated treatments with an organic pesticide such as Captain Jacks Deadbug or a Neem product. Repeat applications every 3 days or so for a couple weeks. . Spider mites can reproduce at exposive rates, so if you don't get them all, as you experienced, they come back. Also, here is a clip I took from a University web site.
"Adult females have the ability to go dormant for a time after the photoperiod (daily hours of light) shortens, then re-emerge to lay more eggs a few weeks after the photoperiod lengthens again. That's one reason Spider Mites keep reappearing crop after crop on indoor plants." Are you growing photoperiod cannabis? This may explain part of the reinfestation.
Cleanliness is next to godliness. Vacuum out your tent. All corners, all cracks. Vacuum out your lights, fans, power strips, etc if there are any places the little bastards could be hiding.
Hopes this helps.
Wow, what was the name of the soybean insecticide you used? You have to be careful about residues and such beings you are ingesting this product into your body. Many agricultural chemicals have long residuals and can be very poisionous. I have used the "shut down the grow for awhile" method before with good results by eliminating any potential hosts in and out of the grow room. I would try using some repeated treatments with an organic pesticide such as Captain Jacks Deadbug or a Neem product. Repeat applications every 3 days or so for a couple weeks. . Spider mites can reproduce at exposive rates, so if you don't get them all, as you experienced, they come back. Also, here is a clip I took from a University web site.
"Adult females have the ability to go dormant for a time after the photoperiod (daily hours of light) shortens, then re-emerge to lay more eggs a few weeks after the photoperiod lengthens again. That's one reason Spider Mites keep reappearing crop after crop on indoor plants." Are you growing photoperiod cannabis? This may explain part of the reinfestation.
Cleanliness is next to godliness. Vacuum out your tent. All corners, all cracks. Vacuum out your lights, fans, power strips, etc if there are any places the little bastards could be hiding.
Hopes this helps.
Thanks, products is lorsban very nasty ,works great but can only be used in veg. The Spider mites are becoming resistant to it. Use to be good for two months now it only works for two weeks.I live in the Midwest soybean fields full of spider mites everywhere.
I know spider mites very sensitive to cold any idea how cold I dare get my room down to without hurting the plants much?
Thanks
I know spider mites very sensitive to cold any idea how cold I dare get my room down to without hurting the plants much?
Thanks
check this out about Lorsban.
http://www.motherearthnews.com/natu...e-pesticides-dursban-and-lorsban-zmaz00onzgoe
No way I'd injest weed treated with that shit.
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2013
- Messages
- 16,816
- Reputation
- 5,006
- Reaction score
- 53,594
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- fine-ass '22 harvest!
Todd, I'm with HM here,... is it systemic? I'd seriously consider just ditching the whole grow man, and nuking the grow area for the mites,... total clear-out, wipe-down, throw-out deal,... ordinarily I'd suggest using some dedicated canna-approved product from a horticultural supply store,.. there are several but using a 1-2 alternating product punch works best,... Azamax and a spinosad combo, with a wetting agent, and excellent spraying technique is the way to go,...
Always watching from the wings I is, right up until...
Please to describe "excellent spraying technique " o' wonderful and wise @Waira (-:
Please to describe "excellent spraying technique " o' wonderful and wise @Waira (-:
I believe that excellant spraying technique would consist of:
1. The use of proper application equipment.
2. Thoroughly covering all surfaces of the plant, top and bottom leaf surfaces, and the soil surface.
3. The use of spreader/stickers to increase the effectiveness and duration of control.
4. The use of two insecticides with different modes of action applied alternatly to not create a resistant pest and clean up survivors from previous applications.
5. Utilizing necessary safety precautions and protective clothing, and proper disposal of unused pesticide mix.
6. The proper storage of unused pesticide concentrate.
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2013
- Messages
- 16,816
- Reputation
- 5,006
- Reaction score
- 53,594
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- fine-ass '22 harvest!
OTD! how are ya me chum? Well and good I hope 
... looks like HM beat me to it! Yup, I make the spray paint analogy (if one has used them before) to how foliar gets done right,... careful complete coverage application to top and bottom surfaces, keeping in mind how micro' the vermins are, and a small patch missed to our eye is a football field to them! 
@Heavily Medicated , perfect, concise drill-down there. Appreciated!
That's pretty much all I was doing last year. I did manage to knock out the critters without realizing I was other than lucky. I knew whut I did w/o knowing whut I do (-;
@Waira I'm just chillin' and waiting for spring (-:
Of course @BigSm0 and his EfficientGrowLight cobs has me seriously pondering small indoors...... Spring is soooo far away!
@Toddautoflower one word. Spinosad.
'Nuther word, Neem Oil.
That's pretty much all I was doing last year. I did manage to knock out the critters without realizing I was other than lucky. I knew whut I did w/o knowing whut I do (-;
@Waira I'm just chillin' and waiting for spring (-:
Of course @BigSm0 and his EfficientGrowLight cobs has me seriously pondering small indoors...... Spring is soooo far away!
@Toddautoflower one word. Spinosad.
'Nuther word, Neem Oil.
If I had serious spider mites, I'd:
a) "Fumigate" my tent - Open a No Pest Strip (by now I have multiple) in the sealed tent, leave it sealed for say an hour with no external ventilation. No air-exposed (flying or crawling) insect can survive this. And to clear the toxic vapors from your tent, just exhaust it through your filter/vent like normal. This leaves no residue on the plant, it's in gas/vapor state, and the vapor is not taken up by the plant, so no contamination. It also works to prevent insect infestations. I generally (other than slacking-off during winter) 'fumigate' about once every 7-10 days, and have never had any insect problem.
b) Foliar spray plants with mixed effective doses of a pyrethrin (I use permethrin) and Spinosad (such as Captain Jack's) insecticide, with appropriate surfactant(s), and throughly spray all plant tops and bottoms.
c) Do a good drain-to-waste (I'm using coco) with feed containing a pyrethrin, maybe Spinosad, along with a Bt insecticide to kill larvae
d) Add AzaMax, neem, etc. to each feeding, although this is not a quick-kill like the other insecticides.
Just doing any 2 of these will probably work well.
a) "Fumigate" my tent - Open a No Pest Strip (by now I have multiple) in the sealed tent, leave it sealed for say an hour with no external ventilation. No air-exposed (flying or crawling) insect can survive this. And to clear the toxic vapors from your tent, just exhaust it through your filter/vent like normal. This leaves no residue on the plant, it's in gas/vapor state, and the vapor is not taken up by the plant, so no contamination. It also works to prevent insect infestations. I generally (other than slacking-off during winter) 'fumigate' about once every 7-10 days, and have never had any insect problem.
b) Foliar spray plants with mixed effective doses of a pyrethrin (I use permethrin) and Spinosad (such as Captain Jack's) insecticide, with appropriate surfactant(s), and throughly spray all plant tops and bottoms.
c) Do a good drain-to-waste (I'm using coco) with feed containing a pyrethrin, maybe Spinosad, along with a Bt insecticide to kill larvae
d) Add AzaMax, neem, etc. to each feeding, although this is not a quick-kill like the other insecticides.
Just doing any 2 of these will probably work well.
Similar threads
